(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
$184.99 (set of 4)FREE Shipping Market Price $212.74 You Save 13% ($27.75) Up to 10% off for Military & First Responders! See Details
Saved - View your saved items
We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.
Justin: At just north of 120 bucks, the SR Performance Sport Lowering Springs that we have here are gonna be one of the most affordable ways to lower your non-MagneRide-equipped 2015 and newer V6, GT, or EcoBoost on the site. Now, in addition to being very budget-friendly, these progressive/linear rate lowering springs are gonna lower your car 1.2 inches up front, and just about an inch in the rear for all fastbacks, and 1.2 inches in the rear for all convertibles making for a very aggressive stance once installed. Now, speaking of which the site does call this a soft three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter here. But if you have access to some basic hand tools along with a lift or jack and jack stands and a spring compressor, you should be able to bang this one out in a few hours from start to finish. As always, guys, hang with me until the very end of the video and we'll show you how it's done.So the Sports Springs here from SR Performance are kind of a twist on the OG SR Performance lowering springs, which by the way, continue to be the most popular currently on the site. Now, the biggest difference I'd say between the Sport version that we have here and the original SR Springs is gonna be the drop. Again, you're getting a little bit more of a drop upfront, roughly a quarter of an inch extra. And depending on your model, the rear drop will be about an inch for all fastback cars. A little bit more for the convertibles out there, 1.2 inches because of the added weight. And while I know it might not sound like a huge difference in drop, believe me, guys, that extra quarter of an inch or so really does contribute to a more aggressive stance as some of our customer-submitted images have shown on the product page.So again, feel free to check those out if you haven't done so already. But aside from the drop, what's also interesting about these particular Sports Springs is the fact that you're getting a progressive spring for your front option, but with a linear spring for the rears. Now the front spring, that rate is gonna start at right around 169 pounds while the rear is a linear or standard 711 pounds. Now I like the standard or linear springs for the rear because it should help increase traction, reduce wheel hop because you're getting a very consistent rate with the Springs. Now this will also be a benefit to the guys or gals out there who might do a little bit of drag racing with their car. As the lighter front springs paired up with the linear spring is something you do see with a lot of drag racing specific springs in the category.Now the lower drop of the sport springs will certainly help lower the center of gravity of your ride, which inherently helps your car handle a little bit better. While the unique spring rate will help improve things like squat under hard acceleration and reduce excessive dive under hard braking. Now, you have to keep in mind here, again, guys, that the SR Performance springs are not gonna be compatible with the MagneRide -equipped cars, such as those performance pack one or two GTs that do come with the MagneRide shocks if you've optioned it out. Or even the GT350 cars as a drop is gonna be a little excessive for those dampers. Now, before we get into the install, I always like to remind you guys that these springs are gonna clear the factory wheel and tire combination without rubbing along with some of our pre-configured wheel and tire kits that we do offer on the site for your S550.So, be sure to check some of those out on the site as well, if you haven't done so already and are browsing for a new set of shoes. But now let's switch gears as promised, guys, and get into that installation. And again, the site is gonna call this a soft three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Personally, I think that's a bit much, but if you've never done springs before, then it certainly will be a new experience, especially with the IRS-equipped S550. Either way, to give you a better idea of what you're up for, here is that detailed walkthrough along with a quick tool breakdown.Man: Tools required for this install, 17-millimeter wrench, 3/8 drive, a good socket set ranging from 13-millimeter up to 21-millimeter, various extensions, a 3/8-inch impact, a 1/2-inch impact, a ball-peen hammer, and a push pin removal tool. All right. To get started, we need to remove our wheels and tires. You can perform this job on the ground, just use a good jack and a good set of jack stands.All right, what we're gonna do first is remove our shock. Now, these are 18-millimeter bolts. You can use a regular socket, I just like my air impact. Then we're gonna bring the car up, even more, to support our lower subframe and get the bottom bolts out of here because the next step is to lower our subframe. All right. Next step, is to remove these two 15-millimeter bolts holding the lower shock mount in. Now, I'm gonna use my other hand to support the top of this shock, just so it doesn't fall. Now with that out, we can pull our shock. Our next step is to lower our rear subframe. Now we have to get these two 13-millimeter bolts out of the way to access this 21 in the front. and then there's another one in the back. We're gonna do this side by side so we can have the other two rear subframe bolts in and lower this side to get our spring out. You don't have to take these out all the way.All right. So with our two 13-millimeter bolts out of the way... Again, our rear subframe is supported with a jack stand, I had to switch to my 1/2-inch impact gun to get this rear subframe bolt out. It is a 21-millimeter. So we are gonna remove this completely and we're just gonna let this bracket hang right there. All right, guys, now we're after the rear subframe bolt right behind the spring. Key note here is when you undo this, you're gonna have some separation between the subframe and the body right here. As long as your jack stand has a lot of that support, you're not gonna see too much movement, but we're gonna be lowering this down slowly to gain some access to this spring here.We're gonna remove this bolt completely too. So now that we have our rear subframe bolts out, we're gonna be lowering it next. We don't wanna put too much strain on these brake lines. We're gonna take a 13-millimeter socket, take out this brake bracket here, and that'll give us a little extra clearance and travel. All right. Now I'm carefully lowering my subframe on the driver side just enough that I can get that spring out and put my new one in. All right. With our subframe bolts out of the way, we can remove this spring. Just gotta pull down on your brake a little bit, save this isolator. Get your spring out away. All right. So this is the bottom isolator. You can see this little ridge here. This will go into the pocket here and you'll actually feel it stop.Now the top isolator again, you're gonna have that little pocket there. You just pretty much thread this on and it'll go where it needs to go. Now we're gonna drop this spring in the way the old one came out. Be careful with your speed sensor line. This should go in a little easier than the one that came out because again, this is a lowering spring. Now we're gonna clock our spring in there so that the bottom of the coil hits that pocket we were talking about. Now we can start jacking up on our subframe and getting this spring back into its place.Now what I'm doing now is making sure my bolt holes are lining up for my rear subframe mounts. All right. Now I'm just gonna start these bolts by hand and then use my impact later on them. It's very important to torque these back down. Now you may notice I did take my bracket off just to gain a little bit extra clearance. That's fine. You can complete this job without doing that, but I did have to gain a little extra room. So we're gonna start those, and start this bolt as well.All right. Now we're gonna use our 13-millimeter socket and tighten up these bracket bolts. We're gonna switch to our 1/2-inch and get these subframe mounts. All right, guys, now we're gonna put our bolt back in our brake line bracket. This is the small 13-millimeter bolt. All right. So with this kit, we are gonna reuse our factory shocks. I'm gonna slide these back into place just behind our half shaft here and drop it down. And just start our 15-millimeter bolts on the bottom. Make sure they go in right. I'm gonna slide this underneath here to jack up on our lower control arm to bring our shock into place.All right. So what I'm gonna do now is get our shock into place. I'm gonna use my body weight on the top of this control arm, just to bring it down past those studs there, move it over a little bit. That way I can get my bolts started. All right. Now, everything you just saw on this side, we're gonna replicate on the other side and then move to the front. All right, guys, moving to the front, we are gonna be removing our calipers. This is the upgraded performance package with the Brembos, so your brakes may look a little different. But I have a 15-millimeter socket, and we're gonna be taking off the whole caliper bracket, and we're gonna be hanging it out of the way with a bungee cord.All right. Now I have my one bolt still in there, I'm gonna remove that now. And don't let this caliper fall. And we're just gonna pull it off the brake rotor like that. We're gonna take a bungee cord, and bungee this out of the way, or right on the K-member right here. All right. Now, I'm gonna take a push pin removal tool and separate our wheel speed sensor from our strut. Now it is connected to two places. One is on the strut here, and then one is on the bottom of the strut behind the brake rotor right here.So I'm just gonna pull those out, set that off to the side. Our next step is to get our sway bar end link off. It is an 18-millimeter nut on the front and you can get a 17-millimeter wrench on the back to hold it from spinning. All right. Again, I have a 17-millimeter wrench on the backside, keeping it from spinning. All right. Now, save this nut, we're gonna be reusing that. And we can take our sway bar end link and take that out of the way. So, I'm gonna remove this rotor just so you can get a better view of what we're doing next. So I'm gonna take my big 24-millimeter impact and take these nuts off. Now you don't have to worry about the head of this, I'll show you what it looks like when you take it off.Next thing we're gonna do is get either a ball-peen hammer or a mallet, and we're actually gonna hit the top of this. We're gonna hit the top of these bolts. The reason why I'm putting my nuts back on is to protect my threads so we have a flat surface to hit. All right. So I have my hammer. I'm just gonna tap on both of them until they come out. I'm actually gonna leave one of these in here because our last step is to remove our nuts and I don't want this falling just completely out.So when I take this out, you can see these splines or these neurals. They actually get captured in there and prevent the bolt from spinning. That's why you only need one nut or one socket to complete this step. All right. I'm gonna remove this nut, but leave this bolt in here, so that's gonna be one of the last ones we have to pull. It's just sitting right in there. Now we can lower the vehicle down and get our nuts off the top of the strut. All right. So we're gonna pop our hood, get it supported. Now what we're after now are these nuts on top of our strut. All right. Now, with a 15-millimeter socket, we're going to remove these nuts. Now I'm gonna leave this one with about one or two threads remaining, take it off, and then thread it on just like that. You can start to see the strut actually falling. Watch this gap.All right. Completely remove that nut. All right. This is where it kind of gets tricky. We're gonna lift up on the spindle here, pull out our bolt, and let this just fall a little bit. Make sure it doesn't hit the ground. But we have that separate now. Now I'm gonna grab the bottom of the strut and the top. I'm gonna take this nut off and carefully remove our factory strut. All right. Now, in our shop, we have a really nice wall-mounted spring compressor. If you don't have one, you can run down to your local auto parts store and get the two-piece that bolts onto the side. And you can actually compress it, but be extremely careful. I'll go over some safety tips when we get over there.All right. So now we moved over to our spring compressor. Again, if you have a rental from auto parts store, you're gonna have the ones that attach to the sides. For this one, we are going on the spring on the bottom here, and then we're attaching the top to our top hat. Now what this will allow us to do is crank down slowly on the top here until you see a little bit of movement. And what that will do is allow us to remove that top nut. All right. So I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter socket and take this nut off.All right. So I'm gonna compress this spring a little bit more and I'm gonna take this 21-millimeter nut off. So another thing to note is the spring compressor is compressing the top hat and the spring together, so I have to catch this strut when I take that nut off.All right. Now we're gonna release the tension off this spring and top hat. We are gonna be reusing our top hat and top rubber isolator. All right. Now, with our rubber isolator and our top hat installed on our new spring, we're gonna slide this into the compressor. And we're gonna make sure it is even and where we want it to be on that press. Make sure that's nice and flat level, and we're gonna bring the compressor down onto the top hat. You don't have to set this right now. You can set that while it's on the car. Just get the studs into the top strut mount, and you can move this whole strut assembly around to find that exact spot. And pull these out a little bit, continue to lower our compressor. I'm gonna start compressing this down. All right. So what I'm doing now is test fitting my strut assembly to my new coil. It looks like I need to compress this just a little bit more to make it seat where I want it to.Bring this down again a couple more cranks. Now we're gonna put this back through making sure our isolator captures the bottom of that spring, just like that. And we have a couple of threads showing for our nut on the top. We're just gonna start that. Now I'm gonna compress it just a little bit more to have some more threads exposed, then we'll be ready to tighten it down. So using our 21-millimeter socket and tighten this down. I'm actually gonna release some of the pressure to put some pressure on the backside of that nut. All right. Just like that. And then we'll get our final torque in a second. Just want a little more thread showing than that. Now we're gonna release the tension on this spring and top hat and get this out of the way and do our other front.All right. And there's your new coil. Let's go get this installed in the car. All right. So now that you have your new spring and your old strut assembled, I'm gonna take one of these nuts, I'm gonna insert this into the strut tower. So again, I have one of those nuts in my hand. I am just making sure my threads are going through nice. And I am going to put one of these nuts on. You can even put another one on the back if you want. So we're just gonna put these on there to hold that, then we're gonna go back down to here, grab our two big splined bolts, bring our spindle back into place. Again, you can move this around to get that in the exact position you need it to go in order to get your bolts back through. Now the bolts go from the front.Don't worry about these splines, what we're gonna do is tap this just a little bit more and when you put that nut on, it's gonna draw it all together and seat in real nicely. So, we need to take this out a little bit, put that bolt in, get our hammer. Just give it a couple of taps till it seats flat against that. Put our nuts back on that. Now, this is a 24-millimeter nut. Get our socket and our impact and make these nice and tight. Watch this distance right here when you hit it with the impact. Drills that bolt in nicely. Now we're gonna go back up to the top and tighten down those nuts for the strut.Now we're gonna put our other nut back on and then tighten all these down. All right. Now, now after you're done with that, we are gonna go back underneath, reconnect our sway bar end link, put back our rotor, and our caliper bracket. All right. Now we're gonna swing our sway bar end link back into place, put our 18-millimeter nut on as far as we can get it. All right. So it's spinning now. We're gonna take our 17-mill and we're gonna put it on the backside to stop it from spinning. And we have our 18-millimeter deep socket. Make that nice and tight, it's not going anywhere. While you're in here, you can reconnect your wheel speed sensor to your strut and your spindle there. Now let's get our rotor on and our caliper back into place. All right. I'm gonna slip this rotor on.All right. Now I have my bolts for my caliper bracket in my hand. I'm gonna undo my safety strap here that I had. These Brembos are a lot heavier than the standard Mustang brakes. Get that out of there. Make sure our pads are seated correctly, which it looks like they are. Slip this past the rotor, line up our mounting holes for our bolts, and get these started. All right. So I'm just hand tightening these 15-millimeter bolts. I'm gonna take my socket here.All right, guys, that's gonna wrap up my install of these SR Performance Lowering Springs for this S550 Mustang. For more installs and products like this, keep it here at americanmuscle.com.
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
SR Performance 404915
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box
|Front: 168 lb/in.
Rear: 711.2 lb/in.
|2015-2021, excludes GT350
|Coupe/Convertible, excludes Magneride
|Progressive or Standard:
|Progressive Front / Standard Rear
1.2"F / 1.0" R (Fastback) or 1.2" R (Convertible)
10 More Questions