(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today we're taking a closer look at and of course installing the Barton Short Shifter available with the black stick and black shift knob for all '09 and newer Challengers with the TR-6060 6 speed manual transmission. You should be checking out this short shifter if you're looking to get rid of the sloppy shifter from the factory, one that leaves you missing shifts from second to third specifically while also replacing it with something that has a 44% shift reduction. Now a 44% throw reduction in your shifter is gonna make a huge difference to daily drivability. It's gonna make your vehicle a whole lot more enjoyable. It's gonna feel a lot more sporty and it can even reduce times at the drag strip. Now if you're spending a lot more time going from second to third with that longer throw, it can increase times on the track so having that shift reduction of 44% makes a huge difference. As a matter of fact, this Barton Shifter and 44% is one of the biggest shift reductions in the category.Now Barton has improved this guy to make sure that it has self-centering springs to make sure that it goes back into position properly every single time whereas your factory shifter is extremely sloppy and I'm sure you guys have noticed that. The factory shifter and the transmission have the sloppy yokes that prevented from decisively going back into position where it needs to go and prevents it from decisively going into each gear when you want it to. Going from your left gates, first and second, and your right gates, fifth and sixth, back to the center, three and four, can be pretty indecisive and very sloppy going from the factory shifter but this goes into gear every single time.Barton, as a matter of fact guarantees that you won't be missing shifts. You will hit second to third properly every time and the same from fifth to fourth when downshifting. Now this guy is made from all premium quality stuff. Exactly what you'd expect from Barton. You can expect billet aluminum construction along with stainless steel for extreme rust and corrosion resistance in the trans tunnel there. You can also expect the shifter handle to be completely isolated from the rest of the shifter assembly going into the transmission which makes it Barton's quietest shifter they've ever produced. And driving this thing on the road you can definitely expect complete cancellation of all NVH or noise, vibration and harshness. The factory shifter did tend to be a little bit more noisy and specifically very sloppy which I know we already mentioned and this Barton alleviates all of those issues.Now this shifter comes in right around 500 bucks, a little under 500 bucks, and this one comes with again that black shift knob and the billet aluminum Barton black stick. Barton's name is also etched into the aluminum on the stick and it has a white shift pattern. Now they also have a white shift knob with a black shift pattern and a couple of other customizable options and there's also different color sticks. So it all comes down to personal preference. I personally like the stealthy look with the eight ball style shift knob but there are other options out there from Barton as well.Now the install for this I'm gonna give two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. This isn't something that requires any permanent modifications. It comes with every single thing that you need to get this job done. There's no modifications to the trans tunnel, there's no cutting or trimming to make sure the shifter fits into position. This entire thing will bolt right up to your factory TR-6060. Of course it's meant only for manual transmissions. There are other options out there for our automatic guys looking to change up their shifter but not this in this case. Now when it comes to two out of three wrenches, simple hand tools will get the job done but because this is something that affects drivability, if it's not done correctly it can be pretty dangerous out on the road. You wanna make sure you're doing this properly which is why I give it two out of three. The entire install should take two, maybe three hours from start to finish depending on your experience. I'm gonna walk you through every single step of the process starting with disassembling your center console, taking the factory one out, putting your new Barton in there and assembling that. It does have a few extra pieces that your factory shifter does not have to separate the shifter handle from the trans, but what do you say I shut up and we just get started?Tools used in this install include an impact gun. I have a 3/4 ratchet and a 1/4-inch ratchet, extension, short and deep 10 millimeter sockets, 8 millimeter deep socket, 13 millimeter short and deep sockets. I used a swivel socket. I definitely recommend that to get to those hard to reach places. Seven-thirty-second hex socket, Philips head and flathead screwdrivers. Eight millimeter ratcheting wrench is very helpful along with a 3/4 wrench.First up with the uninstall is to get our center console out of the way. So we're gonna pop open the center console here and then use the cup holder as a little bit of leverage to pull this straight up. Now that dislodges the back and then we can just lift up from the front to disconnect there. Now it is really difficult to see underneath of it so what I find to be the easiest method here is to actually just twist it so it's sideways and that way you can peek under a little bit. Now the shift knob doesn't screw off itself so what we're gonna do is pop out this entire chrome trim with our leather shift boot all in one piece and then remove the rest of the trim here. From underneath I'm gonna put my fingers right on the inside of this chrome trim next to our leather boot and I'm gonna hold down the rest of the trim and I'm just gonna push up. If you see I can push up here and it's pulling up this entire middle section. I don't want that to happen. I just want the chrome to come off. So if you just push up on that, you can get that to dislodge. So we're gonna do that all the way around. Just like that. And now we can feed that through the middle.On the inside, we have two harnesses we need to disconnect. One's for this center console area where the cup holders are and the other one is for our cigarette lighter. All right. So this harness here, you're just gonna pull up on the red locking tab and then pinch to disconnect. Now for the cigarette lighter it's similar. You're just gonna pinch the top here and pull straight back to disconnect that. And then this is free and I'm gonna set that down on our passenger floor.All right. Next up we have to grab a Philips head screwdriver. There's a bunch of Philips head screws we need to remove to remove the plastic trim underneath of that center console portion we already took out. We have two up under the navigation unit, this whole section there. Then we have a couple all across the sides and then a few under the center console storage. So I have my Philips head screwdriver here and I'm just gonna work these guys off. It's a little tight down here as well. You just wanna make sure you're not dropping them into the center console. I think that can be a little bit of a pain in the butt to get out. Basically what you do on one side, you're almost just exactly repeating on the other.All right, now inside your center console storage you're gonna reach down and pull out the bottom tray. Now you're really just gonna pull it out by hand. Looks just like that. Just pinch both sides and pull straight up. Underneath of that in each corner there is one 10 millimeter bolt. So if you're looking at it like this, there's a bolt here, a bolt here, here and here right at the bottom. So we're gonna get those out of the way and then the center console should be able to disconnect from there. So let's grab our socket and our impact gun with an extension and get to it.All right, so those four bolts are actually 8 millimeter bolts so I've got my 8 millimeter socket on an extension on my impact gun. I'm gonna get those guys out.All right, so reach in. That's one. There's two. There's three. And there's four and you can see the console's loose now. This guy's being stubborn. And there's four. So we're gonna put that aside for safekeeping. All right, now before we remove the console, if you head up here in front of your shifter, you'll see this harness here. We have to disconnect that. So pinch from underneath and pull and there you have it. Now I know this is gonna be tough to see but directly inside of the storage you'll see another cigarette lighter. So we have to disconnect that harness and you can do that from the front here. You're just gonna really pinch and pull back just like we did on the one on the front. Now it's again tough to get to. If you can't get to it from the front, you can lift up on your storage unit and get it from underneath. There you go. Just like that. From here, let's remove the entire center console.All right, so now you can see underneath the center console and this here is the air-conditioning duct that goes to the back vents behind your center console storage unit. Now this guy is just held in with a push clip here. We're really just gonna pull up and disconnect. Then it's really just shoved back under your center console. So we're just gonna pull that out and set it aside.Next what we're gonna do is remove these two bolts holding the shifter handle to the actual unit. Now I'm gonna use a 13 millimeter deep socket to get this guy off. All right, so that slides right out. We can set this aside. Now this entire piece all around is just a rubber plating. We're gonna remove this guy by pulling back pieces of the carpet here and just lifting straight up and out.All right. Right on top here we have a 13 millimeter bolt and then we have 3 bolts on the side, they look like maybe 8 or 10s. Now this entire plate's gonna have to come off to gain access to the shifter. Now we have 6 total 10 millimeter nuts. We have three on this side, three on that side underneath the carpet, so I got my impact and extension. I'm gonna get these off. I'm gonna use a swivel for those top two so I'll come back to that at the end.All right, so now I got a swivel socket on the end here and that should help us out getting at this angle. All right, so now we can lift up on this metal plate. All right, so now what we're gonna do is basically just lift up on this rubber boot and pull that guy up and around.All right, next step. We have our 10 millimeter bolt here going straight through our shifter assembly. I'm gonna use a 10 millimeter ratcheting wrench for this. It's a little longer so I can have a little bit more leverage and we're gonna get this guy off.All right, so now we're looking down here. This little tab up here that goes over the lip is a pin. This pin is basically going left to right just like this. What we have to do is take this tab and rotate it toward the front and then slide that pin out. I'm gonna use a flathead screwdriver here. And if you guys have a little hook, that would go a long way as well. Rotated it and started to slide this guy out and it comes out just like that. Now you don't wanna drop it down but if you do, it should fall straight underneath the vehicle onto the floor. So I'm gonna set this guy aside. There's also another one on the other side that we're gonna have to work out and that's gonna be a little bit tougher for you guys to see but it's the exact same thing. All right. Mine just fell to the ground but I can see it there on the floor. So what we're gonna do now is lift up on the shifter and pull it all the way out. Now we can set this whole thing aside.All right, so we got our factory shifter off of our '13 RT behind me and it's on the table next to our Barton Short Throw Shifter. Now, visually, we can see a slight difference in construction. We can see a thicker billet aluminum and steel construction on the Barton option and just the steel construction on our factory shifter. Now the big thing I wanna talk about here is the difference between the factory shifter and the Barton shifter as far as shifting is concerned. You can see just by holding this up and holding that shifter that it is very sloppy. There is no real rhyme or reason to any of the movements inside of that linkage. If you move over to the Barton shifter, there is no play whatsoever when it comes to the comparison of that factory one. Moving it from third to fourth has a straightforward but it is extremely stiff. The Barton shifter has those self-centering springs that I mentioned in the beginning of the video here that's gonna help you shifting in gears making sure that you're not missing any shifts, especially second to third and going from fifth back down to fourth. It's just gonna help you center it where it needs to be and you can see that factory shifter is just extremely sloppy.We do have to transfer over a couple of things. Number one, the center rod here is gonna get transferred over. That's 1 10 millimeter bolt going straight through it. So we'll take that off on the table and swap that guy over. And then finally, we have to take apart this guy to remove our boot. Now obviously, the Barton shifter has a couple of extra components that it has to get assembled here but we'll do that in the car. Another big thing to notice here is that the factory shifter, the shifter handle itself is completely attached to the entire assembly. The Barton shifter is completely detached from the entire assembly making it one of the quietest shifters you can pick up for your Challenger. Having that shifter handle which is this here be detached from the rest of that unit is gonna make a huge difference when it comes to NVH or noise, vibration and harshness. From here, let's transfer over the factory component with that 10 millimeter bolt and then we'll work on our shift boot.All right, so what we're gonna do here is just turn our stock shifter assembly on its side and get this 10 millimeter bolt off. I've got an impact gun here which I definitely recommend using. It's gonna make life a lot easier. This guy is super tight on there. It's got some blue Loctite on the end there. So holding this down using a ratchet can be a little bit difficult. So what I'm gonna do is use this impact gun.All right, you can see the blue Loctite there wanting to keep it on. So with that out of the way, let's slide this guy off of the factory assembly. We can set that aside and assemble this onto our new Barton. It's basically going in the reverse order. It's gonna slide right on over these bushings. Now if it is a little tight, Barton recommends using 400 grit sandpaper and just sanding the bushing down a little bit just enough to slide this guy on but it doesn't look like we're having any problems. So we're just gonna keep it on as is. Thread that factory 10 back in there. And again, I'm just gonna use that impact gun to put it back in place.Next up, we're gonna take this shift boot off. Now we have a 6 speed here. We're gonna flip this guy around and on the back side you will either have one of two things. One, you'll have this plastic collar like we do. Two, you'll have jam nuts. Now jam nuts are basically just two nut collars attached to each other. You just loosen them up, opposite direction and slide it right off. Now the plastic one's a little bit more of a pain in the butt. You can see on this side...and I'm gonna use a very thin flathead screwdriver. You can see this tab here at the top. Now this tab splits right down the middle this plastic collar going around. So basically, I'm gonna use my flathead to lift this guy up and this whole plastic collar is gonna come back around. Now ours is a little bit up already. Yours may be flush up against the inside of the leather shift boot. So what you're basically going to do is just pry up and out like that on both sides. Just like that. And now it doesn't wanna go all the way up. It gets wider up here. So we're just gonna have to separate them. Just like that. And now, we can slide the boot through the bottom just like that. Now we can set this guy aside.Basically we're gonna slide these two rods into the trans where those two pins were. So we're gonna push those guys into position. And then what we're gonna do is bring this rod forward to line up with that top. Now, I'm gonna put these pins in place first and in order to do that, it's gonna be a little tight. So we're gonna put this guy all the way on the right and we're gonna have to rotate the tab back down into the same position it was when we took it out. So just like that. Now the one on the opposite side, here, was facing up. So we'll slide it into position and then rotate this up just like that. We can use a Philips head or a flathead like I just did to get it in position and now we just have to rotate it up for it to click back in. Perfect. Now we just do the same thing on that other side. All the way in. Perfect. All right, with those pins back in all the way on the left and the right, let's bring this guy back into position and slide that 10 millimeter bolt that had that blue Loctite back in position. Perfect. Now I'm gonna grab that 10 millimeter ratcheting wrench and get to work putting it back on.All right, so now let's take a look at this billet aluminum block. You'll see it has two open squares. Now both of those squares are completely surrounded with a rubber bushing. Now what this is for, this is for this fork on the backside of the shifter. You'll see it slides right on into place and has a stud at the top. This is gonna hold it to that metal plate that went right on over that was bolted down. If you remember from the uninstall, we had a black plate over top, the 10 millimeter nut and 6 8 millimeter nuts. Now that's what this is gonna hold on to and the rubber bushings are gonna help it be extremely quiet eliminating that NVH or noise, vibration and harshness. It's just rubber on metal instead of metal on metal.All right, the next step. We're gonna take our black metal plate along with the rubber gasket or grommet included in the kit here. Now this thing has a slit in the middle and that slit is gonna go right around this open hole. That way there's rubber on the top and rubber on the bottom preventing any metal on metal contact. So this is gonna cancel out any of that NVH that we talked about earlier, the noise, vibration and harshness. You can see on this grommet or gasket here it says up, front, up. So that's obviously gonna be the front of the vehicle facing up. So we're gonna make sure that that is oriented properly and we're just gonna slide this guy in. It's a little tedious to get this to slide in properly but it is a perfect fitment so you just have to work it all the way around this circle on both sides. Perfect, just like that. I'm gonna push that toward the front. And now we can slide it in underneath of the carpeting and onto the studs.All right, so once you have the plate on and the grommet seated properly right around the shifter assembly, gonna pull this guy up so the stud comes through and put that 13 millimeter nut back on. Gonna thread that all the way down by hand for now. Now we can let go. Now we can put on the rest of the 10 millimeter nuts all around the edges and then come back and tighten them down.All right, next we can take this big rubber piece that goes right on top of that metal plate and we're gonna slide that guy right back under the carpeting. Perfect.All right, so the next step. We're gonna start assembling the rest of our shifter before we finish on our console. Now we have two metal or billet brackets. They're gonna go right around the sides like this so that the slot cutouts are facing the inside. Now inside there will be another bracket that will fit right through the middle like a fork. Now in order to attach this, we have 4 13 millimeter bolts along with split washers and flat washers that are gonna go right through here and then through the threaded holes on the shifter assembly that we already installed. So I'm gonna start threading these guys in by hand all the way down. And you wanna line them up so that this is flush up against each side. All right, so now I'm gonna take my ratchet and my 13 millimeter socket and just tighten these guys up. Perfect. Now we're basically gonna do the exact same thing for the other side. All right. Now when we do it on the other side, just make sure that this open slot is facing the other one.All right. For our next step, we're gonna put this fork in. Now this guy is gonna slide right into these two slots. Now if you have trouble sliding this guy in, you can loosen up these bolts and just get these guys enough to wiggle and that should be enough to slide this right through. Now the reason we're putting this in here is our shifter assembly that will attach the shift knob is gonna attach just like this. Now you'll see that it has a very particular cutout on this side. That's gonna be on the driver's side. All right, so we're sliding that guy in. grab the shorter 13 millimeter bolts along with again split washer and flat washers and you're gonna line up the threaded holes in the middle and screw these guys in by hand. Now you do have a little bit of room to angle this any which way that you'd like. If you'd like to angle it a little more to the driver side, you can do that. I'm just gonna go for that neutral position, straight up and down. Now you can grab your 13 socket and tighten these guys down. Perfect.All right, next up we're gonna put our shifter handle here. Now this guy is gonna fit right on the edge here on our driver side. Now it's got a circle opening and then more of an oval shape. The circle opening is gonna get this hex screw with just a split washer through the middle like that. The bottom portion there is gonna get a flat washer and a split washer like that. All right? And there are threaded holes right on the assembly that we just installed. I'm gonna start with this top bolt with just a split washer. Go right through. All right. Now I'm just gonna thread the bottom one through as well. Now with this you will have room for adjustment as well. Now you'll notice that the bottom is curved. This allows you to make adjustments in what the angle you would like on your shifter handle. You can angle it more toward the driver which I think most people will do. Now what I'm gonna do is take my 7/32 hex socket and just thread these guys all the way down keeping the angle that I want. Now I can take my ratchet and tighten those down.All right. It's not quite time to put the shift knob back on. That'll be the very last step. So what we're gonna do now is just start reassembling our center console. First thing's first, we're gonna put our air duct that goes back to the passenger seats in the rear right through. Now that just goes straight into that slot. And now we have a plastic retainer clip that'll clip down right over here just like that. All right. So now we can put our actual center console back in. I'm just gonna lay it down for now while I pull through all of the wiring into position making sure that it is in the proper location.All right, so we're pulling those through. You're gonna make sure that your cigarette lighter that goes under the center console is plugged in first. Next the wiring at the front end is gonna come through. All right. So next, we're gonna push this guy forward. I'm gonna plug in this unit down here. Perfect. And then our cigarette lighter will get plugged in just a little bit.Now if you remember, we had multiple Philips head screws that went through here, here and then all along the sides. Before we do that however, I wanna bolt down the entire center console from inside the storage unit.All right, so now if you remember, we had 4 8 millimeter screws that were holding in the bottom of our center console storage unit. We wanna make sure that those holes are lined up, which it looks like they are, then we're gonna feed them through the bottom. I find it easiest to use an extension along with my 8 millimeter socket just to get them in place. All right. Next I can tighten these down lightly with my impact gun. All right. So next let's just put in that insert into our center console storage and we can shut this guy for now.All right, so next is gonna be our Philips heads. We have two up at the front and then all the way back down to our storage unit. All right, so now we have two underneath the lid of our storage.We're gonna open up our center console like I have here and we're gonna plug in the rest of the wiring to our center console trim with our cup holders. All right. So we've got the plug down low by the cup holders. All right. So we've got our cup holder, a light here that's gonna get plugged in and then we have our cigarette lighter which will be toward the front. All right, so now we can feed this toward the front. And snap it in.All right, so next up is going to be our shifter boot. Now what I'm gonna do is just feed the leather boot while it's inside out over the shifter handle and then clip the plastic trim into place. Once you have that clipped into place just push down the leather boot. To get the leather around the collar on the shifter base what we're gonna need to do is use our flathead screwdriver carefully trying not to scratch the unit, pry it into position. Just like that. So now it's hugging around this ring. There's a little indentation at the base here of the shifter handle that this leather boot can sit flush around and that makes it look a little bit more OEM.All right, last but not least is going to be our shift knob. Now we have this black shift knob here from Barton and we have a jam nut. Now the nut we're gonna thread over the shifter handle. We're gonna tighten this guy all the way down to the bottom and then crack it loose just so it moves freely. Now we're gonna take our shift knob and thread it on all the way to the bottom. Now you'll see when it's threaded into the bottom the shift pattern is way off. We want this to be straight on. Now in order to do that and get this tightened, we're gonna use our fingers to loosen that nut back up against the bottom of the shift knob and have those tighten up against each other. Now what I'm gonna also use is a 3/4 wrench and just grab the edge of that guy holding the shift knob and tighten them up against each other. That way this isn't gonna shift or spin when you're shifting even under hard shifts. And the shift pattern is aligned properly.That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Barton Industry's Short Throw Shifter with the black stick and black shift knob for the TR-6060 6 speed manual transmissions in '09 and newer Challengers. You can get this guy right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Delivers 44% Throw Reduction. If you want to eliminate the clunky feeling of your Challenger's factory shifter, then consider upgrading to this Barton Short Throw Shifter with Black Stick and Black Shift Knob. This short throw shifter delivers 44% throw reduction, enabling you to experience better shifting action.
Constructed With Highly Rust-Resistant Materials. Designed to deliver long-lasting performance, this Barton Short Throw Shifter with Black Stick and Black Shift Knob is constructed with highly rust-resistant materials. Made of billet aluminum and stainless steel, this short throw shifter won’t easily rust.
Quick Installation. This short throw shifter can be installed quickly to your car. Even with little mechanical expertise, you can finish the installation within an hour.
Backed by a 30-Day Money-Back Guarantee. This short throw shifter is backed by Barton Industries’ 30-day, money-back guarantee. If you have any issues or concerns with your purchased product, Barton will refund you the product’s full purchase price within the covered period.
Application. The Barton Short Throw Shifter with Black Stick and Black Shift Knob is made to fit 2009-2021 Dodge Challenger V8 HEMI models with TR-6060 6-speed manual transmissions.
Fitment: 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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