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Video Review & Installation
Noah: I'm Noah from American Muscle and this is the C&L Coil-Over Kit for the 2011 and newer Dodge Challenger. Now, this Coil-Over kit is a track or autocross-oriented setup for the Challenger owner who's looking to lower their ride and improve their car's handling capabilities dramatically.There are some neat features with this coil-over kit that we're gonna take a look at, firstly being how dramatic of a drop you can actually get on them. Now, these guys lower the overall ride height up to 3 inches in the front and the back, and that's gonna give you plenty of room for adjustment and really dial in that ride height to where you want it, which is something that sets coil-overs on a higher tier than a lowering spring setup where you're stuck in that static position with no way to perfect the look or the feel of your suspension. Now, on top of that, you can also adjust the dampening on these coil-overs there at the top with this dial.So, we're looking at some pretty stout build quality here. Everything is constructed from metal. There's no cheap-feeling plasticky parts. And everything is coated in a nice matte black protective finish to prevent any corrosion. And we are looking at 672-foot-pound front springs, and 784-foot-pound rear springs as far as the rates go. And the dampening has 32 clicks of adjustment, and that's gonna allow you to really make precise changes to the feeling of the suspension. You can also adjust spring preload here on the underside of the spring there. And then to top it all off, they come with a limited lifetime warranty, which is gonna protect you from any manufacturing defects.These coil-overs from C&L come in right around the $850 price point. And one more thing to note is that something like a lowering spring kit may be a cheaper option than a coil-over kit. However, they still require spring compression and some more labor to get the struts assembled before the installation. Now, coil-overs might be more expensive, but I do believe that they are worth it in the long run if you're a DIYer that doesn't have access to spring compressors or a shop.We're looking at a three out of three wrenches of difficulty. And this job is gonna take you about four hours to get done, which is a decent chunk of time because when you install suspension, you gotta take a lot of things apart. But, since you have to take a lot of things apart and the car is gonna ride and sit differently than it did as stock, make sure after getting these installed to book an alignment before you drive any long distances. Now, speaking of install, let's head over to the install bay and get these on our Challenger.Man: The tools you'll need for this project are half-inch drive impact gun or a half-inch drive ratchet, a ball pein hammer, a small pry bar, a 7/8", a 13/16", and an 18-millimeter wrench, a 21, an 18, a 16, a 15, a 13, a 12, and a 10-millimeter impact socket, a long half-inch drive extension, possibly a swivel connector, a soft trim removal tool, a measuring tape, and a screwdriver.Hi everyone. Today we're installing a coil-over kit on our Challenger. So let's get started with the uninstall first. All right. First thing we're gonna do is disconnect our sway bar link here using our 21-millimeter socket, then we'll break loose our upper control arm with a 18-millimeter socket. And we'll have to use a ball pein hammer to loosen this up from the actual stud. And then we can remove the lower strut mount, and then the upper strut mount.So, let's go ahead and get started. We're gonna use our 21-millimeter socket here on this bolt here for the sway bar link. Now, it is possible that when you go to take off your sway bar link nut, that the whole stud is actually gonna spin inside. If that happens, just grab a 13th, 16th or a 21-millimeter wrench, put it on the nut, and then you can use a 10-millimeter socket on the stud itself, and just turn the stud.Then you can just go ahead and slide that out of the way. Now, we do recommend that you do one side at a time except for the sway bar link. I recommend that you do both sides at the same time because we are putting in lowering springs, and if you try and reattach your sway bar link with a lowering spring in there, you're gonna have a very difficult time. So ,disconnect both sway bar links at once. That way, when you put it back together, you'll be able to adjust it and get it installed correctly. Now we'll go ahead and loosen our upper control arm nut with our 18-millimeter socket.Now, you don't want to take this all the way off. And now we're gonna use a ball pein hammer and tap it right here until this pops up through it. All right. Now that we've got this broke and loose, we can go ahead and remove the lower strut bolt as well, and then we can go ahead and drop this down. All right. Using our 18-millimeter socket, we'll go ahead and remove this lower strut bolt.All right. Now, to access the three nuts at the top of our strut, we're gonna use our trim removal tool and just pop up this cap. And then you've got your three nuts here, and we'll remove those with our 13-millimeter socket. All right. Now we can go ahead and finish taking off the nut here between our upper control arm and our steering arm. And then you want to use something, I don't know, something like a bungee cord or some strong wire just to hold this steering arm out so to take off the pressure off of the brake lines. All right. Now we can go ahead, lift our strut up, push our control arm down. So we'll just pull down on our arm, and lift our strut out, and then we can go ahead and drop it down. And now you can repeat that process for the other side.All right. As you can see, we've got our original strut here and our new strut over here. Now, this new strut is adjustable not only in height so you can lower the right height of your vehicle, but it also has a dampening adjuster at the very top so you can adjust the quality of the ride. You can make it stiffer or softer depending on what you want. There are 32 different adjustment levels in here, and you can adjust this once you've got it on the vehicle simply by reaching inside the engine compartment and turning this knob at the top. Now, to adjust the right height, you've got a collar here at the bottom, and what you're gonna do is loosen this collar up and then you're gonna twist the bottom of the strut like so. Now, we've opted, this is a 1 to 3-inch right height adjustment. We've opted to do a 2-inch right height on ours, so we're gonna lower it 2 inches. Easiest way to do that, take your original strut and measure the height.So, we're at 27.5 inches on the original strut. So now we're gonna take our new strut and measure it. And we're just a little under 25.5, so we're gonna go ahead, like I said, loosen this collar up here, twist the bottom, and now we're at 25.5 inches. That's where we want it, so now we're gonna go ahead and lock this down. Now, the kit does come with a couple of spanner wrenches as well, so we're gonna use the smaller of the two and just lock this down. Now we can go ahead and get this installed on our car.All right. Now we can go ahead and insert our new strut using the supplied hardware back up into our vehicle. And we're just gonna loosely attach the nuts at the top just to hold it in place. All right. Now that it's secure up top, we can go ahead and place our new strut in position, and we'll go ahead and raise that lower control arm up and insert our lower bowl. Now, the original strut had the nut welded to it, so the kit does come with a new nut to go ahead and secure this to the vehicle. So let's go ahead and get that taken care of.We'll go ahead and lift up our lower control arm, slide our bolt through, and then attach our new nut. Now we can go ahead and reattach our steering knuckle to our upper control arm, and attach it using the original nut. Now we can go ahead and reattach our sway bar link with the original hardware as well. All right. Now we'll go ahead and tighten down our sway bar link using our 7/8" wrench and our 10-millimeter socket. Now we'll go ahead and tighten up our steering knuckle control arm nut with our 18-millimeter socket. And now we'll tighten up our lower strut mount bolt with our 18-millimeter socket and our 7/8" wrench. Now we'll tighten down our three nuts at the top of our strut using our 12-millimeter socket.And now as you can see, we've got our adjustment knob here for the dampening, so you'll have access to it. Now we can go ahead and replace our cap. And now you can repeat that whole process for the other side. Now that we're on the rear, we're gonna go ahead and remove the upper two bolts for our shock mount, then we can remove the lower shock mount bolt. Then we're gonna drop down the two hangers that are on the rear of the exhaust here so that we can have access to the bolt for our lower control arm.So, let's go ahead and get these upper two bolts out first using our 16-millimeter socket. All right. Now we'll go ahead and remove our lower shock bolt using our 15-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. All right. Now we're gonna go ahead and drop the rear of our exhaust here. And we've got two exhaust hangers, one right inside the fender well here and one in the rear of the exhaust itself. So, we're gonna use our 13-millimeter socket to remove the two bolts, one on each hangar so that this can drop down, and that'll give us access to the bolt on our lower control line.Now, because our car is on a lift, we're actually using a pole jack here to support the end of the control arm, which has the spring sitting above it, so there's a lot of tension on that control arm. Without any support, you're not gonna get that bolt out, and even if you did, you could quite seriously injure yourself. So, if you're doing this on the ground with a pair of jack stands, make sure you put your jack under that control arm before you go to remove that lower control arm bolt. Now we'll go ahead and take that out using our 15-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench.All right. Now that our lower control arm bolt is out, we can go ahead and lower our pole jack. And if you're doing this on the ground, like I said, you can do this with your floor jack. Just do it slowly to relieve the tension of that spring. All right. Now you can see that our spring is loose, there's no more tension on it, so now we're all safe. Now we're just gonna pull down on the control arm a little bit, and we can pull our spring right out. And once you've got your spring out, you can go ahead and remove your shock as well. And now you can repeat that whole process for the other side.All right. Just like the front strut, the rear springs and the rear shocks are adjustable as well. So, since we want 2 inches on the front, we want 2 inches in the rear as well. So, we're just gonna measure our stock spring, and it's currently at an even 12 inches. So with that being said, we'll take our upper spring mount that comes with the new spring, we'll set the new spring on top of it, and measure that, and right now, we're at 10.5 inches, so we've got about a half an inch that we want to drop this. To do that, again, this one has two collars on it. We're gonna lower the bottom one, and then lock the base in, set our spring on top, and measure it, and we're just at about 10.5 inches. So we're about half an inch short, but we're at the max adjustment on this spring. Now we'll go ahead and adjust our shock. All right. So, we'll go ahead and measure the height of our stock shock, and we are at 25 inches.Now we'll go ahead and measure our rear shock, our new one, and this one is currently at 23 inches. So, we can go ahead and lock that in place. I do recommend that once you get it to where you want it, before you tighten this down because everything wheels move on you, wait until you get this installed and then use your spanner wrench to go ahead and lock this down. So, let's go ahead and get everything installed. Now we're ready to install our rear spring. But we're not gonna be reusing the upper isolator from the stock spring, so we need to use a screwdriver to go ahead and remove that out of the way. We'll just pop this in here and drop our isolator out. Now, we will be reusing the lower isolator, so we can go ahead and pull that out and go ahead and set our new spring into the isolator making sure that it's in the locked position at the very end. We'll go ahead and insert that, twist it till it comes to the end, make sure our rubber grommet is at the top of our new spring. And then we'll go ahead and slide this in place.Now, you do want to keep note that there is a bump out here on your lower isolator that fits into a pocket on the bottom control arm. So make sure you line those up. And we'll go ahead and put that in. All right. Now we can go ahead and install the lower end of our shock into the control arm. And now we can go ahead and reinsert our original bolt. And you may have to just tap that in. Put our nut on the other end.All right. Now we can go ahead and position our pole jack, or in your case, possibly a floor jack, and get this ready to raise the control arm back up so that we can go ahead and finish tightening everything up. Now, while you're raising this lower control arm, you do wanna make sure that you keep your spring lined up with the upper mounting post. All right. Now that we've got our control arm raised up, we can go ahead and reinsert our bolt. Now, you may have to use a small pry bar just to make sure that it goes into place, and you may have to use your hammer to help tap it in.Go ahead and attach your nut to the other side. Now we can go ahead and install the upper bolt for our shock. All right. Now we'll go ahead and tighten down those upper bolts with our 16-millimeter socket. And now we'll tighten down our lower shock mount using our 15-millimeter socket and our 18-millimeter wrench, and do the same thing for our lower control arm bowl. All right. Now, with all of our hard stuff, go ahead and tighten down. We can go ahead and remove our pole jack and reinstall our exhaust hangers. Again, we'll be using our 13-millimeter socket and the original hardware. And you can repeat that whole process for the other side as well.And remember, once you've got everything installed, torque everything down to factory-recommended specifications. And always, anytime you do suspension work, take it in and get an alignment before you drive it too far. And that wraps up our review and install of the C&L Coil-Over Kit for the 2011 to current Challenger. Thanks for watching. And remember, for all things Challenger, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
672 Pound Front Spring Rate; 784 Pound Rear Spring Rate
Bolt-In Installation - No Cutting or Welding Needed
Fits 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger Models
Description
Improves Stance and Handling. Improve the handling and stance of your 2011-2023 Challenger by upgrading to a C&L Coil-Over Kit. Featuring upgraded, heavy-duty mono tube shocks and coils, this Coil-Over Kit will greatly improve your Challenger's cornering capabilities, while lowering its ride height for a more aggressive appearance.
Adjustable Ride Height. Not only will C&L Coil-Overs improve the handling of your 2011-2023 Challenger, but they will also improve its overall appearance. This C&L Coil Over Kit is ride height adjustable allowing you to lower your Challenger anywhere from 1 inch to 3 inch (front and rear) to eliminate that nasty tire to fender gap for a more aggressive street stance.
32 Way Adjustable Damping. The C&L Coil Over Kits use 32-way adjustable mono tube struts that have been specially tuned to match the included spring rates. The 32 clicks of damping adjustment allow the driver to dial in their preferred handling feel or desired ride quality from soft to firm to match their driving needs.
Bolt-on Design. C&L designed their Challenger Coil-Over Kit to be an easy, bolt-on conversion. There is absolutely no cutting, welding or modifications required for a simple straight forward installation. Please note that an alignment is required after installation.
Application. This C&L Coil-Over Kit is designed to fit 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger models.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
