(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Justin: If you're looking for a super affordable brake upgrade for that 05-10 GT or 11-14 V6 at home, that will also look pretty good behind your favorite set of wheels, then you'll have to check out the C&L drilled and slotted rotors that we have here today. Now, this set of front rotors will feature iron castings along with the silver zinc coating, and, of course, that slotted and drilled treatment offer right around the low $100 price point. Installs according to the sites, gonna get a soft two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Here, guys, take a couple of hours or so to complete from start to finish as we'll show you later in the video.So, again, guys, this is a great low-buck option for all S197 owners looking to complete a subtle upgrade or even a stock replacement and don't wanna fork out the hundreds or even thousands of dollars for a big break kit from a name like Brembo or Willwood. Now, don't get me wrong, guys, certainly, great options, but they are very, very expensive. Now, the C&L rotors that we have here, on the other hand, again, a solid option to kind of piece together your own kit perhaps, using the pad of your choice for a budget-friendly setup that will not only perform better than your stock equipment, but, in this case, look better as well.Well, let's dive a little bit deeper here at the C&L rotors. And these guys are gonna start off as a G3000 grade cast iron blank. Now, from there, the rotors, as you can see, do receive that drilled and slotted treatment using precision machined, rounded slots, and then, beveled holes. And then, the entire rotor is finished off with a durable silver, zinc-plated finish, which will help prevent or, at least, reduce rust or corrosion on your nonfriction-related surfaces. So, what's the whole deal with this slotted and drilled treatment? Well, there's certainly a few different schools of thought on that topic, but the basic idea is that that drilled and slotted treatment is there to help reduce brake temperature, in some cases over 180 degrees. Now, that's gonna be huge because cooler brakes lead to less fade, and that's gonna mean a more consistent pedal, more consistent braking performance, which overall is certainly a good thing when those brakes get pushed a little hard.Now, aside from the cooling benefits, the slotted and drilled treatment is also going to help remove any excess brake dust, debris, or even moisture, and that's gonna keep the rotor surface and your pad nice and clean for more effective stopping power and, again, more consistency. Finally, guys, it is worth pointing out that all C&L rotors are looked over their mill balance first before being shipped out to help ensure owners aren't going to suffer from any noise, vibration, shaking, or shimming, or anything like that.But now, we wanna shift gears and talk about the install. And so it's gonna call this one a middle-of-the-road, two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter and three hours at absolute max to complete from start to finish. Most owners will probably tackle it in far less time than that. But regardless, now we wanna give you a better look at how everything will go down. So grab your toolbox, head out to the garage or driveway, check out our detailed walkthrough and tool breakdown.Man: The tools you'll need for this project are a half-inch drive impact wrench or a half-inch drive socket, a swivel joint, a 15-millimeter socket, a three-eight-inch drive ratchet, a 10-millimeter socket, a caliper hanging tool, some brake cleaner, and a clean cloth. Hi, everyone. Today, we're installing a set of front rotors on our Mustang. So, let's get started with the uninstall of the old ones first. All right. So, once you've got the vehicle properly supported, either on a lift such as what we have or by using a jack and a set of jack stands, and you remove the front tire, it's always a good idea to turn the wheels to the inside of whatever side you're working on.So, the first thing we're gonna do is disconnect the bracket that holds the brake hose to the strut, so that we can have better access to the caliper-mounting bolts behind the rotor. All right. So, using our 10-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove this bolt, right here, that holds the brake line to the strut. Now, before you remove the caliper-mounting bolts, it's always a good idea to just loosely put on a lug nut, just to make sure that the rotor doesn't fall off onto the ground when you remove the mounting bolts. Now, there are two caliper-mounting bolts on the back of the spindle here, one at the bottom, one at the top. We're gonna use our 15-millimeter socket and an impact gun to take that off, but you could probably get away with using just a half-inch drive ratchet or possibly even a breaker bar. Now, you may find it easier to use the swivel extension for your impact gun to get that top bolt out.All right. Now that we've got the bolts removed, we can go ahead and remove the caliper. And you always wanna make sure when you're removing the caliper that you use some sort of a hanging tool to support it while you're doing the rotor because you don't want to stretch out that brake hose. Now you can remove the lug nut, and just slide the rotor off.Now, one thing to note is that these rotors are side-specific, and it is stamped on the outer edge here as to which side this rotor goes on. So we're gonna use the one that's marked with an L, for left side, to go on the driver's side here. The other thing you wanna note is before you put it on, always give it a good cleaning using some sort of brake cleaner and a clean cloth. That way, you remove any materials that may have gotten on during the manufacturing process or during shipping. And just make sure that you get both sides as well.All right. Now you can go ahead and put your new rotor on. And just like when you took it off, loosely attach a lug nut, just to keep it from falling. Now we can go ahead and reattach our caliper. Now we go ahead and put our caliper back on, and we're gonna reattach it using our original hardware. Now, we'll go ahead and tuck those down using our 15-millimeter socket. And now, we can go ahead and reattach our bolt holding our brake hose, and tighten it down with our 10-millimeter socket. And now you can repeat that whole process for the other side. And remember when you're done to torque everything down to the factory-recommended specifications.And that wraps up our review and install of the C&L sport cross-drilled and slotted rotors for the front, for the 05-10 Mustang GT, and the 11-14 Mustang V6. Thanks for watching. And remember, for all things Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
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(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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