(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com, and today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Clinched Flares Ducktail Rear Spoiler in the unpainted finish available for all 2008 and newer Challengers. Now, if you're the owner of a Challenger, and you're looking to spice up the rear end with one of the most popular styles of spoilers in the category, one that actually has a unique spin on it, this is a great way to go. Now, if you're not familiar with Clinched Flares, they're the makers of wide body kits for a number of different makes and models, and this is one of their components. I gotta say it looks as aggressive as some of those kits that you see out there. This Ducktail spoiler, like I said, is a little bit unique because it does bolt to the body of your vehicle like a wide body kit or some fender flares would, it uses rivnuts and 22 additional polished stainless steel hex screws and washers to bolt this to your body to make it look like it is perfectly molded to the trunk lid and the rear end look of your Challenger.Now, I personally am a big fan of this guy. The install is pretty involved, which we'll get to in just a second, but it's worth the while and its aggression. Now, this guy does ship unpainted. It's an unpainted ABS plastic, which is one of the most common aftermarket materials in the exterior appearance category. The ABS plastic, like I said, is durable, it's impact resistant, and right out of the box, it has a matte black raw finish, which some guys actually like to install as is out of the box, which is what we have here on this Challenger. This customer is a big fan of that. Now, it does leave you with the option to take it to your local paint shop and have it painted to an OEM color of your Challenger or a custom color of your choice to add a little personal touch to it. That's obviously personal preference. Now, it does come with weatherstripping to be installed all the way around the edges that will install with 3M automotive bonding tape, which is a pretty durable tape that's meant to withstand all the weather conditions, that just makes sure that it gets a good seal up against your paint so that moisture doesn't make its way underneath and into the holes that you drill.This one does come in at right around 300 bucks, making it a little bit more expensive than some of the basic spoilers in the category, but it has a huge impact on appearance, arguably one of the biggest impacts on appearance out of the entire category. That's obviously opinionated, but I do think this guy has a really aggressive look. It kind of comes up in that Ducktail spoiler shape, it molds a little bit more over to your fender as well as the side bumper. It's also going to do the same thing on that side and it comes down a little bit lower to your deck lid panel here by your taillights. Now, it's worth noting here, guys, that this does not retain a factory backup camera that was previously mounted in the factory style spoiler. That backup camera was mounted right above your trunk release inside the spoiler, this does not have a whole prep for that. If you do wanna reuse your backup camera, you'll have to customize a way to mount that to the inside of your spoiler. We're not going to be doing that in this video. This is going to delete that camera.Now, the install I'm gonna give three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, it is a lot more involved than a simple bolt on spoiler. It has a lot more going on. Twenty two holes you'll have to be drilling here which sounds like a lot, but honestly once you get the right tools in hand, you can have this done in about three hours' time. You're gonna need a rivnut tool. There are rivnuts included in the kit and the stainless steel hardware like I mentioned. I'll walk you through every single step of the process from start to finish. What do you say we get started. All right, tools used in this install include an impact gun or a ratchet, a drill, a variety of drill bits, and specifically you'll need a 1964th drill bit for the rivnuts, also need a rivnut tool. Recommended would be a 10-millimeter socket and a T15 Torx bit, a variety of panel removal tools. I also used a squeegee to help get some of the excess adhesive off, a center punch is recommended, wire cutters or something similar, small Allen key, a heat gun, tape, clean microfiber, and finally, some general purpose adhesive cleaner.Now, because our vehicle has a stock spoiler on it, we have to get that out of the way first. So what we're gonna do is pop our trunk and in each of the top corners, there's a small nut that we have to remove holding this guy on. What we're going to do is pop off these little black caps, and if you're having trouble with that, you can grab needle nose pliers and just pull them right off. All right, so I'm just gonna pinch that, pop, pull like that right back, and expose that stud. All right, so now grab a 10 millimeter socket, we're gonna remove that little nut. Once this is out of the way, do the same thing on the other side.All right, next step, we can pop off our spoiler. Now, if yours is a factory spoiler that has never been removed before, you may have a bunch of adhesion underneath of it, keeping it on, in which case you might wanna use a heat gun or some fishing line a lot of guys choose to use, and kind of solid off underneath. A heat gun works just as well too, you can keep that up from the side and the corners and it'll loosen up the adhesive and you can pop it off. I suggest using a panel removal tool as well. Now, ours isn't as sticky as it once used to be, so what we're gonna do is just pry off the corners. There are also little push pin clips that hold that on in different locations about a quarter of the way through and three quarters of the way through. So we'll pop those out of position and then unplug our camera.So we've got it unclipped from this section and our side section. So we're just right in the middle and it snaps right off. Now, like I said, there's going to be some adhesive underneath which may fight you a little bit. Once you have it cracked up, you'll be able to access underneath of it. Now, we can work on disconnecting our camera. All right, now obviously, our trunk lid has seen better days when it comes to dirt, so we're going to have to address that once our spoiler is off, but we still have to disconnect that camera. Underneath of our spoiler here, there's a little entryway that has 14, 15 Torx screws holding it on. That's gonna give us access to the camera where we can unplug it and then set it aside. So grab a T15 Torx bit, I'm gonna use my impact gun and get those off.All right, so we got that unbolted so what we're gonna do here, let's pop this guy off and we have access to the back of the camera there. Now, of course, you can follow this line to the inside of your trunk lid, but then you're removing the installation liner and all the things to gain access to the other end. So that's personal preference, whether you unplug it from here or the other end, but we're here so what we're going to do is pry up essentially on this little plastic clip to release that, and we can disconnect that camera line, bring this guy out, free the wire and set our factory spoiler aside. So we got our factory style spoiler off of our Challenger, and as you can see, this guy is unpainted. It's the factory styling, but it's not painted like it would be off the factory line that's just worth mentioning. Now, that's gonna be similar to our guy here. This is an unpainted, Clinched Flared Ducktail and it's unpainted three millimeter ABS plastic. The ABS is one of the most common aftermarket materials when it comes to exterior styling parts. So it is very durable, impact resistant, it has a little bit of flex to it, so if it did take a small hit, it wouldn't crack immediately. So that's a really good thing. And given that it is unpainted, it leaves it open for you to match it to your factory color, or paint it to a custom color of your choice.We're gonna be installing it in the unpainted finish as you see here. Now, it's worth noting that I know it looks black, but it's not a painted black. This is a raw ABS material which is just molded using this black finish. This is a more of a matte black raw material color, you can install it just as it is which is what we're doing today. But the option of painted is there. It isn't as wide as your factory style spoiler, it is however gonna hug the molding of your vehicle, so it'll kind of hug the body lines, come down over the fender side a little bit and more toward your taillight which your factory spoiler does not do. Another thing worth mentioning here is this does not retain your factory backup camera. If you're equipped with a factory backup camera and you want to retain it, this one's not going to be for you, or you can drill a hole and have it custom mounted. That's personal preference, but it does not have a spot for it right out of the box. Factory style spoiler however does so that is a big difference between the two there.Now, before we get to drilling and opening up all of these molded holes and sections there, we do have to clean off our trunk lid and you can see it's seen better days, like I said earlier. So let's take care of that with some glue gun and some adhesion remover. We'll get that cleaned up and prepped for this guy. So I'm going to kick things off here with a microfiber and some general purpose adhesive cleaner. I'm going to try to get off all the easy stuff, I can imagine that the bigger blocks of 3M that are still on the trunk lid are gonna need something a little stronger, but let's get the small stuff out of the way and then we'll tackle that. So I'm gonna use this microfiber, I'm not going to pour it right on to the vehicle, we wanna use it on our microfiber first. From there, we'll be able to wipe down some of that excessive gunk. You can see it's already making a huge difference. And a lot of that is just dirt, but it's also taking off some of the scratches and it's taking off some of the less tough residue.Now, like I said, it does extend over the side, so you don't want to just focus on the trunk lid, you want to focus on some of that edging as well. All right, at this point, we're gonna use a heat gun to remove these 3M tape squares that are still adhered to our trunk lid. And as you can see, there are some scuffs and you can buff that out if you'd like at this point. If you have any scuffs from removing the factory spoiler or just pre-existing scuffs, you can buff those out now if you'd like, but keep in mind that this spoiler is just gonna cover up all this. So that's personal preference. What we're gonna do is use our heat gun here, and with some distance between us and the paint, we're going to heat up the adhesive to peel it off.I have a squeegee here as well which is gonna help us kind of pry up on some of the edges as we loosen it up. There we go. It's starting to come off a little. There it is. All right, so now, we're back on the table with our new Ducktail spoiler, we have to do our drilling. Now, this part isn't going to be as hard as it looks, what we're gonna have to do is take our drill, a set of drill bits, and our rivnuts and get started. And what I'd suggest doing is drilling open the corner holes on the front and the back and then the middle holes on the front and the back, getting them to the size that we need for the rivnuts, then putting it on the vehicle and drilling those out. So you'll be doing about six first.Once we bolt it down using those six, we can use the Ducktail spoiler itself as a template and drill straight through this and the vehicle while it's on the car. That way you're avoiding having any of the holes drilled individually throwing off alignment and it not bolting up correctly. The last thing you wanna do is drill a hole and be out of alignment and then have to redrill another hole or make it a lot bigger. Now it's a whole mess. I think this method will make it a lot easier on you. So we're going to drill at each corner and then the middle. We're going to step up with our drill bit. I'm gonna start at a one-eighth spit and then work my way up until the rivnut is very snug in the hole, but fits. That way we can confirm the proper size.So first things first, I got my one-eighth drill bit, I'm gonna do each corner. So when you're doing this, you wanna look at this little indent, that's sort of a template starter, go right in the center. And from there, you can drill your hole. All right, so we have the one-eighth drilled on our top left hole. Now, obviously, that's not big enough for our rivnut so I'm gonna step up to an 1164. I'm gonna focus on this one before I start on the rest of them just so we can find what sizes we need. From there, it'll make life a lot easier going forward. So 1164th is next to step it up. Obviously, this is still too small, so we're gonna keep stepping up until we find the right size. And the next one I'm gonna go up to is a 732nd. Next up, quarter inch. All right, so we're getting closer, but still not the right size. So let's step up again. All right, now because we're getting close to the size for the rivnut, I'm gonna just start stepping up one at a time instead of jumping to the next size a lot bigger.So next is gonna be 1764th. All right, getting there, jump up another one. Next up 932nd. Next, 1964th is up next. There it is 1964th is our number. All right, so now we're gonna do the same thing on the other side. Since we determined that 1964th is the number we need, I'm gonna start at one-eighths, then jumped to a quarter inch, and then jump to where we need it to be. So we still have to step up, but we're not gonna have to do it seven times. Find the middle, put the hole where you want it, and drill through. All right, that was our 1964th. So now, I'm gonna take one of those rivnuts and just make sure. Perfect. So now, we're gonna do the same thing on the same side but to approximately one of these middle holes. All right, now, you can do the same thing on the other side. All right, so now, we're doing it to the other side, and as you can see, they're more sideways than they are horizontal. So what we're going to do here is just go from the other end, find the middle, approximately. Let's start with our pilot hole, the one-eighths. Next up quarter. Lastly, 1964th.Of course, you just wanna test it out, make sure it's still good. Perfect. Now, we can move on. All right, next up here, now that we have about six holes drilled on our spoiler, we're gonna put it in place on our vehicle, we're going to actually use tape to keep it in place where we want it to be and then we'll drill into the vehicle and bolt down at those six holes. Now, I'd recommend grabbing a helping hand just to make sure that you're aligning it properly. It might be difficult to do by yourself to check both sides since it is a pretty wide vehicle. So I'm going to set it in place, grab some tape and my buddy Blake here, he's gonna help me line this up. And I'm gonna show you what we're doing. All right, so we have this taped down, we have it exactly where we want. I like to use our trunk release button as a guide for the center hole, you can line that up there. That way it can help you make sure that it's even on both sides. And then once you have it taped down where you want it, basically, what we're gonna do is start doing the same drilling process that we did on our table.We'll start with our eighth-inch drill bit, jump up to a quarter, then up to the 1964th, and then we'll put a rivet in, bolt this one down, which will help us hold the position and then do the other ones that we already have pre-drilled. All right, now, before I actually go on with the drill bit, I'm going to use a center punch to help me guide the bit so it doesn't dance around at all. I'm gonna hold this in position, use a center punch to go right in the middle of this hole. We'll go from there. Perfect. All right, this is our last bit here, this is the 1964th. All right, so as you can see our rivnut does fit perfectly. So what I'm actually gonna do is leave that guy in there as is, that's not how it's going to be installed. That's gonna help us keep the spoiler aligned to that hole, I'm gonna go back and drill holes in the rest of the ones that we did on the table and then we'll take it off and bolt it down.All right, so now we're gonna move on to the top. All right, so we got our six starter holes drilled, that's gonna help us align this guy. So right now, what we're gonna do is take it off, we're gonna put our rivnuts in the place, and then we can bolt it back down, finish drilling the holes and repeat that process. So for now, let's untape it and get it off. All right, so now it's about time we take our rivnuts, and we're going to basically use our rivet tool to punch them into place on the six holes that we drilled. So what you're gonna do is grab this guy, grab one of the rivnuts included in the kit, thread that guy on while it's open. I'm gonna put it in our hole here. Start in the center, I'm gonna squeeze and punch it down. And that's gonna stay in the vehicle. We can repeat that for all of them. All right, so now we're just gonna repeat that for the rest of them.All right, so let's repeat that for the top. All right, so as you can see, we've got that last one in here. Just to quickly show you guys what this does. Essentially, when we clamp this down, it expands that rivnut into the hole that we drilled. Now, if your rivnut is still loose after you do this, you may wanna tighten that screw again, and clamp it again, just to expand it a little bit more. You don't want those holes to be loose. When you put the rivnut in, you want it to be just snug up against the hole that you drilled. If it's too loose, it's not gonna be tight enough. If it's too small, you gotta open the hole a lot more. So there you go. Now, what we're gonna do is put the spoiler back on and bolt them down. All right, so now, I'm gonna take our spoiler and set it into place. Let's focus on this center guy at the bottom. I'm gonna take one of our screws and the washers, and I'm gonna throw this in by hand.All right, so we're gonna repeat that for all six of them and then drill the rest of our holes. All right, so now that we have this in place, let's grab our Allen key or our hex socket and get these nice and snugged, and then we'll move on. All right, so we've got our six down, we have it tightened down. So this spoiler isn't going anywhere. The reason we wanted to do that is now it makes our life easier, we don't have to guess the position of the rest of the holes, we can drill right through and we know it'll be a perfect spot every single time. So we have 16 left to go. Make sure your drill is charged, we're gonna make our way through the rest of these here and you can use that center punch like I have been doing and just punch the center here, that will help you get started. And then from there, step up your bits every time, you'll be done in no time.All right, I'm hitting the center punch a couple of times to see if I can get through the plastic here and hit the metal at least a little so it doesn't dance around with our drill bit. Just like to hit this a couple of times with the center punch. All right, I'm gonna hit the rest of them with the center punch and then grab our drill bit. All right, it's about that time we finished drilling our holes. Next up, we're going to unbolt the spoiler, bolt up the rest of our rivnuts, apply our weatherstripping to the edges of our spoiler and then reinstall it. So we have a rivnut tool again, I've got my rivnut at the end here, we're gonna install the rest of them and then we'll move on.All right, next up around the table we have this long one piece string of weatherstripping. Now, this guy has pre-applied 3M automotive bonding tape on the back, that's going to adhere to the inside of your Ducktail spoiler, and that little lip is going to go around the edge here. That's gonna prevent any moisture from seeping underneath of the spoiler and getting into those holes that we drilled. So, first thing I'm gonna do is grab an alcohol prep pad and I'm going to clean off the area the 3M will touch to make sure it'll get a good bond, getting rid of any dirt or dust. All right, so the adhesive is going to be on the inside here, so I'm just gonna hit basically these edges. Go all the way around the other side.All right, so now, you're gonna start at the end, and it's basically going to hook in just like that. And you're gonna run that all the way across. So let's peel off our backing and get started. All right, I don't like peeling off the backing all at once, because then that sticky part will touch the table and get some dirt on it. So just peel off little by little as you go. All right, now that we got to the end of the top, you can cut it. I actually recommend going around all in one piece to prevent any cuts, which would allow moisture just to get through that little crack. So go all the way around is what I would recommend, but of course, that could be personal preference. All right, let's flip it over and continue. If you follow around the edges and make it curve like that, you can get a seamless fold around the edges. All right, as you get closer to the edge here, we're gonna have to cut this guy off. Now, make sure when you're cutting it off, you're cutting it off at the top of this portion here, so they match up nicely, right? So I've got wire cutters here and go right to the top. All right, with the weatherstripping in place, let's finally install it on the Challenger.All right, so now we're gonna drop this guy in. Grab one of your screws along with the washer, and I like to start in this middle section at the bottom, so that's where we're gonna put our first one. All right, now repeat this for all of them. All right, once you get this last one screwed by hand, grab your Allen key or hex socket, go back and tighten them down. And one thing I'd recommend doing is as you tighten it, you may wanna start pushing that weatherstripping in to make sure that it's tucked in exactly where it wants to be. So I'm going to hold that weatherstripping down, tighten this down so it gets pinched between.Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Clinched Flares Ducktail Rear Spoiler in the unpainted finish for all '08 and newer Challengers. You can pick yours up right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Stylish and Functional. Give your Dodge Challenger an incredible cosmetic upgrade by installing the Clinched Flares Unpainted Rear Spoiler. This rear spoiler boasts a sleek design that complements your vehicle’s fast and powerful construction. What’s more, it comes unpainted, so you can easily match it up with your vehicle’s customized style.
Provides Increased Down Force. This Ducktail Rear Spoiler is designed to significantly reduce drag and lift. As a result, you can increase your vehicle’s fuel efficiency without having to install a heavy upgrade.
Built to Accommodate Your Driving Lifestyle. This rear spoiler is crafted from high-quality and durable 3mm ABS plastic. This material is also used in manufacturing OEM bumpers, so you can rest assured that it can keep up with your Challenger’s specific application.
Moderate Level Installation. You need to have moderate mechanical expertise to ensure that the spoiler is properly secured to your vehicle as drilling is required for installation. For this reason, it’s smart to let a qualified mechanic install it for you if you’re unfamiliar with the product’s setup.
Application. Clinched Flares’ Unpainted Ducktail Rear Spoiler is compatible with all 2008-2020 Dodge Challenger models.
Fitment: 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020
Clinched Flares duck-chal
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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