(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Justin: If you plan on drag racing your 2011 through 2014 manual GT or Boss on a sticky tire, well then, upgrading your driveshaft to the DSS 3 1/2-inch aluminum option that we have here today will be a great way to ensure your day doesn't get cut short due to snapping that stocker. Now, on top of being much stronger, the one-piece aluminum option will also save you some pounds of rotational mass, all for right around that $1,200 price point. Install won't be too bad here, guys, but because all of your work is done underneath the car, figure a solid two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter and a couple of hours to knock out from start to finish, as we'll show you later in the video.So this is one of those parts that, truth be told, isn't really necessary for most casual stock or light bolt-on six-speed owners out there, as the stock driveshaft will serve its purpose just fine even when you start pouring on some power. However, this is a key driveline component that should strongly be considered once you start really preparing to drag race your manual Coyote and launching hard with a drag radial or a slick.But getting into the actual DSS shaft that we have here today. And you're gonna find this to be one of a couple different options for the manual cars, the other being the much more expensive carbon fiber option. Now, both driveshafts are advertised to support a good amount of power, roughly 900 horsepower here, by the way, for the 6061 aluminum option. Now, one of the things DSS is most excited about here with this particular aluminum option is that it now features a Direct Fit rear CV, which operates much like the stocker and does not require the use of an additional adapter plate, which can sometimes be problematic and just add additional weight.Now, on top of that, DSS went from a 4-inch option down to a 3 1/2-inch diameter shaft. That's good because you're gonna make for a little bit more clearance on those lowered cars while still maintaining the same amount of strength overall. Now, that strength is there because you're using solid materials. Again, 6061-T6 aluminum construction here with the billet end caps. Now, the front does feature a 1350 U-joint, along with a 28-spline, 108-millimeter 6-bolt rear CV joint. And that's gonna be made from all new 300M material.And then of course there's the weight savings, right? Something like this, typically, the factory 2-piece driveshaft, at least on the S197, about 39, 40 pounds, somewhere in there, but this option from DSS is gonna come in on average about 19 pounds or so. So roughly saving about 20 pounds of rotational mass, which is huge, right? Certainly gonna help the car rev a little bit quicker and require basically less effort from the engine to turn. Now basically, anytime you can shed rotational mass through lighter wheels, lighter flywheel, or in this case, the driveshaft, is definitely a good thing, and we call that free horsepower, right? It's not typically going to add horsepower, but it's not going to take horsepower away like it would turning a heavy cast iron flywheel or a heavy two-piece driveshaft. So anytime you free up some extra rotational mass, always a good thing.But now we wanna shift gears and just show you what it takes to get the DSS installed on your manual S197 at home. These really aren't too difficult to install, guys, but you're gonna wanna obviously get the car in the air. You're gonna wanna remove that mid-pipe just to make a little bit more room for the install itself. And obviously, you just wanna make sure you have some Loctite on hand as well for some of these bolt. But to give you a better idea of just how things will go down at home, feel free to check out our detailed walkthrough and tool breakdown, now.Man: Tools used for this installation: 3/8 electric impact gun, 1/2-inch impact gun, 3/8 drive ratchet, 3/8 extensions, 3/8 swivel, Loctite, 1/2-inch swivel, 12-millimeter socket, 1/2, 3/8 adapter, 5/16, and 10-millimeter Allen head sockets, 10-millimeter, 13, and 15-millimeter sockets, torque wrench, and a hammer.Hey guys, I'm gonna walk you through the install of our 3 1/2-inch aluminum driveshaft in our '14 Mustang here. Let's get started. So, first thing we're gonna do now, we have our vehicle up on our lift, is we're going to remove our exhaust system. Now, if you're at home and you're doing this on the ground, you're gonna wanna jack your car up. You're gonna wanna make sure it's in neutral for the back wheels, but you're gonna wanna chuck the front tires, make sure you block 'em up so the car don't move when you're getting ready to move the driveshaft. We have ours up on a lift, so it's a lot easier. So we're gonna get back into removing the exhaust system, and then we'll start pulling the driveshaft out after we get the exhaust removed.So the first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna loosen our clamps up back here that hold on our muffler to our axle, over the rear pipe here. We're gonna take our 13-millimeter on our gun. I'm gonna loosen this up, that'll get this one done. And then I'm gonna...you're just gonna repeat the same procedure on the other side. And I got that good and loose. Now you're just gonna, like I said, repeat the same procedure, loosen the other muffler up there, then we'll go up to the front. Now that we have our back loose, we're gonna loosen up these four 15-millimeter nuts here on our pipes. That way, once we get these loose, we'll be able to remove these two pipes, give us access to our driveshaft. I'm gonna take my 15-millimeter on my 1/2-inch drive impact gun, and loosen these up. You don't have to take 'em all the way off, just loosen 'em, like that. And that'll give us access to start removing our pipes. So now that we have our 15-millimeters here loose, and we have our back ones loose, I'm gonna be able to take our pipe, and slide it out, and do the same on the other side, and that'll give us access to our driveshaft.So now I'm gonna take my 13-millimeter on my impact gun, I'm gonna loosen up these 2 clamps here to remove our mid-pipe, just gonna make it easier for us to get to the driveshaft. So we'll just loosen these up and then remove our pipe. And now that's removed, we'll be able to get to our driveshaft.So now that we have our mid-pipe off, I'm gonna take our pole jack here and support on our center support of our driveshaft, just to give it some support to hold it up when I start removing the bolts on the front and the back. Just put a little tension on it, not much, just enough to hold it. Next, we're gonna go up front here. We're gonna remove our four 12-millimeter 12-point bolts that are holding the front yoke in. And then we'll go to the back and remove it from the back or the rear. So now that we have our driveshaft supported, I'm gonna take my 12-millimeter with my 1/2-inch impact gun. I'm gonna remove these 4 bolts. Now, I have marked our driveshaft. I put a mark on both of these because we're gonna be putting this back in. You can do that as well, if you ever decide to put it back in, you know where it went, especially on the back and the front, I always put marks on. So now I'm gonna just remove these four bolts, and then we'll work our way back.I'm gonna give the driveshaft a turn. Now we'll go back to our center support and loosen up those bolts. Next, I'm gonna take my 13-millimeter with an extension, reach up in here, and there's 2 bolts right here that hold the center support of the driveshaft in. I'm gonna use my 13 on my 3/8 electric impact gun. That's one. That's two. Now we'll work our way to the back. Now we're gonna remove the six bolts back here that hold the back of the driveshaft. Again, I put a mark on this, being as that we're gonna be putting this back on our vehicle. So we're gonna remove these. I'm gonna take my 10-millimeter on my 1/2-inch impact gun and take these bolts out.At this point, I'm gonna have to spin the rear again to get to the bolts. Now I have 'em all loose, I'll remove these out so we can remove the...and break this loose from the rear. Now, if yours has been in there from factory, it might take a pry bar just to pop it loose. That's what I'll do next, and we'll get the driveshaft completely out. So now I'm gonna break this free from the rear. I'm just gonna give it a slight tap with a hammer, and then pull it free, and drop it down. Now, at this point, we'll move our pole jack and then we'll take the whole driveshaft out. Now that we have the back broke free, the front came just loose, as soon I took the bolts out, I'm gonna lower the pole jack down a little bit. Once I get it down to there, I'm just gonna pick it up, and pull it right out.So now that we have our old driveshaft out, I'm going to install our new driveshaft. I have the rear supported here with our pole jack. I'm gonna take the driveshaft, stick it up into place. It might take a little finessing to get it over this here, but we'll get it up in and then we'll start our bolts. So now once I have it in place like that, I'm gonna get my bolts and my Loctite, start our back bolts, and then we'll go up to our front. So now I'm gonna use the Allen head bolts that were supplied in the kit, with the retaining clip that we see here. I'm gonna take my Loctite and put a little bit onto the bolts, just a little bit, and we're gonna do that on each set of bolts. It's the blue Loctite, and I wanna get 'em in place here, and get 'em all started. And I'm gonna do that on the rest. Some Loctite on 'em and get 'em all started. And the last set, some Loctite on that one, and we'll get these started.Now, once I get them started, I'm gonna take my 5/16 on my 3/8 ratchet, and I'm gonna run 'em into place. I'm not going to tighten 'em fully because we're gonna torque these then. So now you're gonna wanna repeat that same procedure on the rest of the bolts and just spin the rear to get your bolts tight and started. So now we're gonna stick our front bolts in. I'm gonna put some Loctite onto our front bolts, it's just the blue stuff. Once I have 'em with the Loctite on, I'm gonna install the front bolts. Once I get 'em all started, I'm gonna take my 3/8 ratchet on my 10-millimeter Allen head socket, run these in. And then you're just gonna wanna repeat that same procedure on the other two, and run these in, and then we will torque them to manufacturer spec.So now that we have our bolt snug, I'm gonna take my torque wrench, set to 70 foot-pounds, which is what the manufacturer recommends for the front ones. I'll get it started here, and if you're doing this by yourself like I am, I'm gonna take a pry bar, and stick in here, and hold onto it. And you're just gonna wanna do that and repeat that same procedure on the rest of the bolts. Now that we did our front, and we torqued all those, we're gonna torque our back. I'm gonna take my torque wrench, set to 57 foot-pounds, and I'm going to torque the back bolts. And you're gonna wanna just repeat that same procedure on the rest of the bolts.So now we got our driveshaft in place, we have all our bolts torqued to manufacturer specs, I'm gonna reinstall our front pipe here, take it up, and then I'm gonna use my 13-millimeter on my gun to tighten up our clamps. Gonna get 'em in place, just like that. I'm gonna grab my gun, my 13-millimeter, snug these up. Once I have them snugged up, we'll just push this up, and hold it up, and tighten 'em up a little bit more. And that'll stay up in place there. Now, we'll install our mid-pipes.So now we're gonna install our axle pipe. I'm gonna slide it up over top of the rear here, get it into place, and slide it into our hanger. And just let it hang out like that. Plus, now we're gonna do the next one. We'll slide them into place, just like that. Now, we'll go to the back of the vehicle, and hook up our mufflers, and then come back and tighten up our 15 millimeters up front. So now I'm going to line up my pipe into our muffler here. I'm gonna take my 13-millimeter on my 3/8 gun, tighten this clamp up while pushing up on it, make sure it's not hitting anywhere. And now we're gonna repeat the same procedure on the other one. Okay, now that we have our back clamps tight, I'm gonna come up to our front here with my 15-millimeter, and my 3/8 gun, I'm gonna push up on the pipes and get the pipes tight up against the body, and lift up where I want it, and then give 'em a really good tightening. And that wraps up this installation.That wraps up this review and install of our DriveShaft Shop 3 1/2-inch aluminum 1-piece driveshaft for '11 to '14 GT, and '12 to '13 Boss 302. Thanks for watching, and for all things Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
The Driveshaft Shop FDSH56-A
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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