(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
- Customer Submitted:
- Spec Clutch Installation Guide
If you're looking for a balance of weight savings and strength when shopping flywheels, a chromoly steel option like the Exedy here would be an excellent choice. Now, the Exedy we are talking about today in this video happens to be one of the most popular in the flywheel category, for both the 6 and 8-bolts cars alike and will land you right around the mid $300 price point. We are gonna be focusing in on the 6-bolt option for this video, which again, will be available for the '96 to '98 GT in addition to the late 2001 to 2010 GT as well. Install will obviously involve dropping the transmission along some other necessary components to make that all happen. So let's kick this one up to a full three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, and we will have some more detail on that later in the video. If you're watching this video, then chances are you're already familiar with the name Exedy as they are no doubt a clutch juggernaut. That's because they produce a number of OE clutches for a bunch of manufacturers, in addition to a number of aftermarket clutches for your performance needs as well. And with that in mind, it really only makes sense for them to offer flywheels because a lot of times, manufacturers will strongly recommend sticking with the same brand for both clutch and flywheel to get the best results.Now, unlike other companies in the category, like McLeod or SPEC for instance, who sometimes gives you some options when it comes to material, Exedy here, on the other hand, is only going to offer you one and that is chromoly steel. In some cases, Exedy will give you a choice between forged versus billet. But at the end of the day, chromoly steel is your only option so don't expect an aluminum option or anything else like that. In my opinion, that's really not a bad thing, because chromoly is gonna offer you almost all of the weight savings benefits of aluminum, not quite as light but pretty damn close. And in addition to that, a far greater strength over an aluminum option. Now Exedy is also able to integrate the ring gear here into the material of the flywheel itself, which means you don't have to press it on like you would with most aftermarket aluminum options which utilize an aluminum flywheel but with a steel ring gear. And sometimes that difference in material with the heat can be a spot for failure. But just how much weight can you expect to shed from your rotational mass when making the switch to the Exedy? Well, this flywheel is gonna weigh in right around 16 pounds, which is roughly 9 to 10 pounds lighter than the factory flywheel you are replacing. And that is huge, right, because cutting nearly half the weight of your factory flywheel is gonna to make the car feel a lot more responsive overall, should rev a lot quicker and a lot easier, and it should feel like the car's pulling through the gears a little faster as well.On the flip side, there really isn't any overwhelming negatives to switching to a lighter flywheel, at least in my opinion. But some of the common issues you might hear on the internet, some people might point out that the car will rev quicker, yes, but on the flip side, it's also going to drop those revs a little faster when shifting gears. Secondly, your drivability tends to take a very small hit as clutch engagement or feel rather will be slightly different and in some cases will require a little bit more RPM to get the car moving from a dead stop. But other than that, guys, making the switch to a lighter flywheel, in my opinion, again, is nothing but a positive. All right, gang, so we've talked about some of the weight savings benefits. Let's talk about some of your other pros when checking out this option and the biggie that Exedy really likes to point out is the high thermal capacity and increased clutch cooling capabilities thanks for the airflow design that's built right into the center here which will help keep your clutch cooler in the process. And as we all know, guys, one of the biggest enemies of any clutch, either stock or aftermarket, is going to be heat. On top of that, the Exedy has been given the SFI stamp of approval which allows this flywheel to be used safely in competitive motorsports and has been tested to over 18,000 RPM which is a tad bit more than most Mustang owners will ever see on the road or even the track. Now, Exedy does include all of the necessary dowels to help with installation in addition to, again, strongly encouraging owners to pair an Exedy flywheel with a corresponding Exedy clutch for the best results as we mentioned earlier. But let's get into the installation and as you might imagine, this one will involve the removal of the transmission in addition to some other key components like the driveshaft and exhaust to make it all possible. And to give you a better idea of what's involved with this job, here is a detailed walkthrough along with a tool breakdown.We're gonna start off up top here at the battery. Since we're removing the starter, it's a great idea to disconnect your positive and negative battery cable. I've got an 8-millimeter socket on my ratchet here. All right, next we're going to remove the shifter, that's gonna give us a little more clearance for when we're ready to drop the transmission out. First thing we're gonna do is move the shift ball followed by the plastic trim. Once we get that up, there's gonna be four bolts to remove the shifter. All right, now if we just pull up on our trim piece here, it should pop out, and we'll have to remove our 12-volt cigarette lighter wire right here. All right, we're gonna remove the heat shield right here. It's four 8-millimeter bolts. All right, now we can pull our heat shield out. And next, we're gonna remove the four bolts that hold the shifter to the transmission. All right, I got a 13-millimeter socket on a quarter-inch drive ratchet. All right, now we're ready to pull our shifter out. All right, we got the car up in the air. We're gonna start off by removing some of the exhaust. We can do the H-pipe first. There's four 15-millimeter nuts up on the exhaust manifolds that we need to remove first, followed by the oxygen sensor harness. We have our rear O2 sensors here that need to be removed and last but not least, the rear H-pipe to muffler bolts. All right, now we can disconnect the O2 sensor harness. It's gonna be a little tough to see once I get my hands up in here. Basically, it sits on top of the transmission. If you can get one hand in there to release the tab...There's one. All right, we can now unclip our rear O2 sensors. And the last thing before we drop our H-pipe out is we're gonna disconnect the rear bolts here. They're a 14-millimeter. We're now ready to pull our stock H-pipe out.All right, next thing we gonna do is remove our driveshaft. Now, it's a good practice to mark your driveshaft with a Sharpie before you pull it, just so when you go to put it back together, you can line your marks up and you know everything's gonna be exactly the same as it was. And these bolts, we have four of them. They're a 12-millimeter. All right, next up is the starter. First thing we gonna do is remove the two wires that are connected to the starter. Make sure you have your battery cables disconnected at this point. The small wire on here is under a 10-millimeter nut. All right, next there's three bolts that hold the starter in place. They are a 13-millimeter. All right, with a 10-millimeter socket, we can pull the clutch dust cover inspection box here. All right, I have a pry bar here. What I'm gonna do is place it in between the clutch fork and the transmission and I'm gonna take some of the pressure off the clutch fork so I can release the clutch cable. In order to get our clutch cable out of the transmission, we need to pull this little C-clip right here. Just take a pair of pliers and pull it out then we can pull our clutch cable right out of the transmission. The last thing we're gonna do before we pull the transmission is disconnect all the wires that are attached to it. There's a transmission harness that comes down from the top here. There's a couple plugs we need to pull and we're gonna start back here. All right, I'm gonna unplug this guy here and we'll put this harness aside and we can start to unbolt the transmission at this point. We got a pole jack in place here on the tail end of the trans. Next thing we're going to do is remove the trans crossmember. It's a 13-millimeter socket. There's four bolts, two on each side. It's gonna allow us to drop the trans down a little bit to gain access to the upper bolts on the bell housing. All right, so I realized that we need to remove this crossbrace here. With this out, it's gonna let us drop the trans a little bit more so we have more room up top to get to the upper bolts. For the two upper transmission bolts, I have a very long extension with a 13-millimeter universal socket on it. All right, we got the two upper transmission bolts out. I have brought in my transmission jack and I've strapped the transmission to the jack. If you guys don't have one of these, you can use a floor jack or a pole jack. We have three bolts left on this side of the trans and two bolts left on the right side of the trans. After that, we're ready to pull this thing right out of here. All right, we got all our transmission bolts out. Now we're ready to remove the transmission. I'm gonna have a buddy help me lift this thing out of here. All right, now that we got the trans out, we can remove the stock clutch. I got a 13-millimeter socket. We're gonna go around and remove the six bolts that hold the clutch in place. All right, we're now ready to remove the stock flywheel. We got six bolts right here and they are a 17-millimeter. We are now ready to install our flywheel. The flywheel will only bolt up one way. You have to match up the bolt holes on the flywheel to the bolt holes on the crankshaft. Once you get it lined up, get a bolt started. All right, I'm gonna run these bolts the rest of the way on with my impact gun. I got a 17-millimeter socket on here. After that, we're going to use a torque wrench and torque it down to the manufacturer's spec of 60 foot-pounds. All right, now that we've got the flywheel in place, we're ready to start installing our clutch. First thing we're gonna do is put the disc up in place. We have our alignment pin here that Exedy supplies us. Okay, now we're gonna put our pressure plate up in place. Once you've got your dowel pins lined up, you can start throwing some bolts in place. All right, we got all our bolts started. I'm gonna go around and tighten them up now. I have a 13-millimeter on my impact gun. We have our transmission on the transmission jack and we're ready to throw the trans up back into place. All right, we can get our wiring harness back in place now. Push pins back in the holes in the transmission and we'll plug this sensor back in. Go over here and then we got one more plug to plug back in right here. These are our O2 sensors. We'll hook them up when we get our exhaust back into place. All right, we're ready to bolt the transmission crossmember back up to the floor of the car. I'm gonna raise my pole jack, get a couple bolts started. We're now gonna put clutch cable back onto the clutch fork in the transmission. Put our retainer back on. All right, we're gonna need a pry bar to get the shift fork. Now we can put our dust cover back in place. We're now gonna put our starter back into place. All right, we're gonna hook our starter wires up now. This is a 13-millimeter nut, followed by the small which is a 10-millimeter nut. All right, up next is the driveshaft. We will be putting this back into place. All right, you wanna line your driveshaft up to the mark that we made when we uninstalled it and we'll get some bolts started.We are now ready to reinstall our H-pipe. We're gonna put it up in place, get a couple bolts on it, then we'll tighten it all down. All right, we can throw our K-member support brace back up in place now. All right, we can plug our rear O2 sensors back in now. All right, we're plugging our front O2 sensors in now. They're really hard to see. Make sure you listen for the click. We're now ready to reinstall our shifter. Before you put the shifter in though, make sure you take some Scotch-Brite or some very light sandpaper, clean the old silicone off the bottom of the shifter and off the top of the transmission. Get yourself some black RTV so you get a good seal and we'll reinstall our shifter. Now we can drop our shifter into place. All right, we can throw our sound deadening plate back in. Snap this guy back into place. Put our shift knob back on. And last but not least, we're going to hook up our battery cables. That's gonna wrap up our review and install. Be sure to check out more at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 1996 1997 1998 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box
|Year/Model:||96-98 GT |
late 01-10 GT
|Material:||Billet Chromoly Steel||Bolt Pattern:||6 Bolt|
|Hardware Included:||None||SFI Certifited:||Yes|
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