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JLT Series II Cold Air Intake with Red Oiled Filter (11-23 5.7L HEMI Challenger w/o Shaker Hood)

Item CH2982
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$319.00 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Adam here with, and today we're taking a closer look at, and installing, the JLT Performance Series 2 Cold Air Intake, available for the '11 and newer 5.7L HEMI-equipped Challengers without the Shaker Hood. You should be checking this out if you're looking to ditch the factory air box to upgrade to something that's gonna help your engine breathe a lot better, increase horsepower and torque numbers, as well as throttle response and acceleration. This is definitely gonna be for the guys looking for one of the more premium options in the category that comes with a washable and reusable oiled filter. That's pretty much the star of the kit, but there's also big upgrades in other departments here with the other aspects of the kit.First off, let's talk about this filter. This is an S&B filter. JLT sources their filters from S&B, which is a very reputable filter manufacturer in the category. S&B has their own cold air intakes, but this particular filter is a massive 5x7-inch filter. It's a conical shape as you see, a lot different than your factory paper element filter that's flat and in that factory heat shield. So this is gonna pull in a lot more cold air while also blocking out a lot more debris and particles that you don't want coming into your intake and ultimately into your engine. That can definitely rob you of some power, so upgrading to a filter just like this one here will do wonders for performance.There's a couple of really cool things about this particular filter that makes it a little bit better than most of the other options out there. First off, it has that open bell tower top. This bell top is going to make sure that it's pulling in more cold air instead of just being capped off with rubber or some kind of plastic ABS plastic or whatever other elements they use. This open hole will definitely make sure you're maximizing that intake. It's shooting through that 360-degree filter. And this being a washable reusable filter means that you don't have to buy a new one when it comes time for routine maintenance.Oiled filters versus dry filters is something to keep in mind in the category. There are two different types out there. This one being oiled filter as I'm getting all over my hands here. Oiled filters typically do a lot better job filtering out some of those particles that you don't want getting in, but also they require a little bit more maintenance. Because it's oiled, when you do wash it and go to reuse it, you're gonna to have to re-oil it.You can pick up air filter oil at your local auto parts store, but you won't have to worry about that for several thousand miles or until your next time for routine maintenance. Dry filters on the other hand, just a quick tip, if you're located in those dry climate areas, you're seeing a lot more debris in the air, you might wanna pick up one of the dry filters. It won't clog up as much as an oiled filter would. You won't have to maintenance it as often as you would here with the oiled in those dry climate areas, but either way, they're within a 1% difference of performance. Oiled filters are some of the most common options in the category and most common in the aftermarket world.Aside from that, you do have a couple other things I want to highlight, next up being your filter tubing. This is a roto-molded polyethylene tubing with a huge 5-inch opening. That's pulling in a ton more air than your factory option. That's gonna attach right into your filter, making sure that it's streamlining airflow with absolutely zero restriction.It's also pretty sleek. It's got that black textured finish on top, with "JLT" subtly printed in that plastic, which is just a really nice touch. Some options out there have that really in your face metal plate, something that's really flashy. This is just really subtle, blends in with the engine bay, but still looks really good. This is also a roto-molded one-piece heat shield, which I actually prefer over some of the aluminum options. This is gonna do a way better job trapping in the cold air and blocking out excess engine heat.Some of those metal or aluminum heat shields that you see that you have to put together and apply weatherstripping to the top separately, those don't tend to be the best when it comes to blocking out that excess engine heat. They're really good for being opened up, pulling in cold air, but if it's not completely surrounding and boxing in your filter, it's probably gonna let in a little engine heat, which can rob you of some of that power.With power in mind, JLT does let us know that they have dyno-tuned themselves and tested this for the particular 5.7L application, to produce up to 15 horsepower and 15 foot-pounds of torque. I imagine these are really good curve gains at the low end for your Challenger. And because this does not require a tune, we are not gonna be dyno testing that today. JLT does let us know, however, you can expect pretty impressive gains at the low end. So this is something you should be able to feel once you get it installed on your 5.7L.Now, a couple other things we're gonna have to do. For one, right out of the box, our weatherstripping is already applied to the top portion and the bottom. If you open up your box and it is separate, just apply that to the bottom here and to the top. That'll seal right up against the open hole in the bottom of your engine bay, and this will seal up right under the hood to keep out that hot air.Another thing, we have to assemble our rubber coupler. This is a really heavy-duty coupler, not like some of the silicone options I've seen in a lot of kits. We've installed a number of these on our '13 5.7L behind me. And this is one of the better quality feeling couplers I've seen, as well as really just the entire element of the kit. This is some really premium stuff. With that said, expect it to come in right around 300 bucks. Little more on the high end of the spectrum. Not quite the most expensive, but it does have a premium price tag.Install, one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Anyone can tackle this in the driveway at home. Just have very simple hand tools on deck. We are not going to have to assemble any fittings to the tubing. We don't have to do any of that nonsense. The only thing we're gonna have to assemble is our MAF sensor to the open hole on the coupler, really simple stuff there as well. And I'm gonna take you guys through every step of the process, starting with getting our factory one off. So, what do you say we get to it?The tools used for this install include an impact gun, a ratchet, 15-millimeter wrench, 8 and 16-millimeter deep sockets. All right, step number one for the uninstall, of course, just pop off your engine cover. Now of course, we're working the 5.7L. This may be a little bit different for the guys out there with a 6.1L, but shouldn't vary too much. Just pop off that engine cover and just set it aside.Next up, we're gonna do our sensor right on the side of the tubing that connects to the throttle body. It's really just a pinch and disconnect. From there, you actually want to remove the fitting for the sensor itself, which you're just gonna twist and pull straight back on. This is extremely sensitive, so set this aside and just make sure it's out of the way of any danger. Next up here, grab an 8-millimeter socket or a flathead screwdriver, and we're just gonna loosen up the clamp holding the intake tubing to the throttle body. From there you should be able to just twist it up, pull this back. Before we can remove this, we have one more bolt to remove, as well as a hose, and then the whole thing will come off in one piece.All right. Next up is the bolt holding the factory heat shield to the front support. That's also an 8-millimeter. Just loosen that up and take that out. From here, we gonna disconnect the hose, the breather line on this end. Just gonna wiggle it back and forth and pull it straight back. At this point, we should be able to disconnect this from the throttle body and pull it all up in one piece.All right, this, we'll pull straight up. Pull out of the throttle body. Can lift up on this end here, and we're just gonna set all this aside. Now, this bracket was used to hold on that factory intake at the extension portion, so we're just gonna go ahead and remove it because we're not gonna need it for our aftermarket intake. So I'm gonna take a 16-millimeter socket and just remove this bolt.At this point, you can grab a 15-millimeter wrench to hold the inside bolt, grab your 16 socket again, and just pop off the nut on the outside. She can be a little rusty. All right. This way the bracket's out of the way, but there isn't an open hole there. You can just thread the bolt back in there and tighten up that nut. Now, I know we already talked about a lot of the details of our JLT Series 2 Performance Intake, but I did wanna give you just a quick side by side comparison with our stock one here, since we have it off of our 5.7L at this point.So, as you can see, the tubing, a lot different. The factory tubing has that flexible portion in the middle. That's gonna cause a lot of air turbulence coming from your paper element filter down to your throttle body and ultimately your intake manifold. This being a huge opening for the JLT, it's actually gonna be about this way, huge 5-inch opening here, which means there's no air turbulence, no restriction whatsoever. And again, I already touched on that, but I just wanted to give you that side-by-side comparison there.Paper element filter is trapped up in this box here. There's three screws holding this on. We're not gonna take that apart, simply because we are gonna ultimately put it back into our 5.7L. But just to give you an idea, that paper element filter is trapped in here, which is gonna do a pretty good job blocking out excess engine heat, but it might not be doing the best job pulling in the most cold air. They are not reusable, they're not washable, they're really not entirely reliable. But updating to the JLT filter here from S&B, this is gonna do that 360 design, pulling in that cold air, and the opening on the top is a huge difference.This is what's gonna differentiate this filter from some of the other cotton gauze filters on the aftermarket. Heat shield, as you can see, pretty similar but also very different. It doesn't have that closed lid at the top but instead will seal up under the hood. Now, I want to set this aside. We're gonna assemble our mass airflow sensor to the coupler first, then we'll move into throwing on some of those couplers onto our tubing. So, what do you say we just set this off?Now getting the MAF sensor installed on your coupler here is a little tricky. The hole you see on the side here is pre-drilled, you don't have to worry about doing anything to it, but it is pretty tight. There is no grommet you're gonna install because this is a rubber coupler, it's just going to be itself and the MAF sensor. Now because it's really tight, it's gonna be a tough job getting this MAF sensor in place. You're gonna want to twist it back and forth, pushing down while you pull back the coupler.Now if you need to, you can press down on a table, but you want to make sure you're not damaging the backside of the sensor that's inside of the tubing. So, just be careful as you're getting this inside. Just wanna push down until the MAF sensor is seated at the O-ring. You can see we got that in so we're just gonna pull back a little bit, so the O-ring is seated properly just like this.Now, it's essentially going to attach to your throttle body just like this is, so just make sure it's rotated facing the same way as the outlet here. This side here will attach to your tubing. So, if you want to grab that JLT intake tubing, you can actually pre-install that onto this side. Now, before you do so, make sure you have your clamps readily available. Throw one of your clamps over the end. Grab your 8-millimeter socket and loosen that up, seat it properly, and then tighten it back down.Now on this end, that'll go to your throttle body. You want to just put the clamp over the edge here. This one's a little tight, so we're gonna loosen that up. Just to set it into place. Don't tighten this one down just yet. You wanna leave it loose so you can attach it to your throttle body. At this point, we're ready to drop it into our vehicle. The first step is to grab your heat shield, and as you can see it's already has this nipple attached to the back side. That's gonna install into the grommet in your wheel well. If this is not in your wheel well, check your factory intake to make sure that it hasn't come off.Drop this into place. Just attach that bone to the grommet. Grab that factory bolt that we removed from up top of our rad, and just tighten it down by hand. All right. Grab your socket and tighten it down. The next step is your JLT intake tubing. That's gonna drop down into this opening and connect to your throttle body. Seat that all the way back. Rotate your clamp so it's aligned where you want it to be, and tighten it down with your 8-millimeter socket or your flathead. Make sure all that is tight and secure. You can reconnect your MAF sensor. Next up is your filter. Just make sure you have the large clamp over the end here.Now, there's an indent here where the clamp will sit, so just insert that there, drop it into place, and connect it to your tubing outlet. Seat that all the way back to this lip, rotate your clamp upward, and tighten that clamp down. The last step of the process is gonna be our breather hose and then our engine cover. Now, the breather hose in our kit has come preassembled with the hose fitting. If yours is not preassembled, it's just a matter of popping them together. This open end here is gonna go to the nipple or the fitting pre-molded to your intake tubing, so we'll just twist that all the way back into place.No need for a clamp. That is tight enough to hold itself in. Grab your factory tubing, your crankcase breather hose, and just attach that to the fitting on the other end. Seat those back to the fitting. Now, the last step is our engine cover. Perfect. Once that's snapped into place, you're good to go.Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the JLT Performance Series 2 Cold Air Intake, for the '11 and newer 5.7L-equipped Challengers without the Shaker Hood. If you're looking for one of the best quality intakes and filters on the market, you can check this out right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Provides Improved Horsepower and Torque
      • Designed to Increase Throttle Response
      • Comes With a 5-Inch x 7-Inch S&B Powerstack Air Filter
      • Built to Dissipate Heat Faster
      • Crafted Using Roto-Molded Plastic With a Black Textured Finish
      • Easy Installation
      • No Tuning Required
      • Fully CARB-Certified - CARB Certification Number D-761-5 (Applies Up to the 2019 Model Year)
      • Fits All 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger 5.7L HEMI Models Without Shaker Hoods


      Better Power and Performance. Are you looking for ways to improve your 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger’s power and performance? If so, it’s time to get this JLT Performance Series 2 Cold Air Intake. This JLT Performance Series 2 Cold Air Intake comes with a plastic intake tube that features a huge 5-inch opening which tapers to 4-inches at the other end. This greatly improves the flow of air and the Roto-molded plastic keeps the air cooler than metal tubes. The improved and cooler airflow can add up to 15 HP/TQ, as well as enhance throttle response, giving you the power and performance you’re looking for.

      No Tuning Required. This JLT Performance Series 2 Cold Air Intake is designed to improve your Dodge Challenger’s performance without having to reprogram its computer. However, if you want to get the best performance out of this JLT Performance Series 2 Cold Air Intake, some custom tuning is recommended.

      High-Flow Reusable Filter. This JLT Performance Series 2 Cold Air Intake uses a high-flow reusable oiled air filter. This filter can effectively keep nasty particulates from robbing your Dodge Challenger of precious engine power. In addition, the filter is completely washable and reusable, saving you the trouble of buying a new filter every time it gets dirty.

      Roto-Molded Plastic Construction. This JLT Performance Series 2 Cold Air Intake is manufactured using advanced Roto-molded ABS plastic. This plastic construction is designed to dissipate heat faster than metal intakes and keep the intake air charge cool. The addition of a Roto-molded heat shield ensures the engine stays cool at idle and low speeds.

      Easy Installation. Installing this JLT Performance Series 2 Cold Air Intake requires an easy bolt-on process. All you need are basic hand tools to install this intake.

      Limited 1-Year Warranty. This JLT Performance Series 2 Cold Air Intake comes with a limited 1-year warranty. This ensures each intake is free from defects in material and workmanship.

      Application. This JLT Performance Series 2 Cold Air Intake fits all 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger 5.7L HEMI models without shaker hoods.



      JLT CAI2-DH57-11

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Plastic Intake Tube
      • (1) Rubber Elbow
      • (1) Air Filter
      • (1) Heat Shield
      • (2) Clamps
      • (1) Hole Plug
      • (1) PVC Hose with Fitting

      Customer Reviews (193)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Challenger

        • R/T - 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • R/T Classic - 12
        • R/T Plus - 15, 16
        • R/T Plus Shaker - 16
        • R/T Shaker - 16
        • T/A - 17, 18