(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today, we're taking a closer look at listening to and installing the MBRP Pro Series cat-back exhaust with carbon fiber tips, available for the 18 and newer Mustang GT with the active exhaust.Now, as you just heard from our sound clips, there's a couple of different modes here we wanna focus on because the sound, in this pro series from MBRP can be so versatile. Quiet mode here can be really mellow, I'm giving it two out of five on our loudness meter, something you can keep the volume down but still get that deep aggressive note. Really good for guys looking to maybe do a cold start here and have close neighbors you don't wanna bother in the early morning. Normal mode I'm gonna give four out of five on our loudness meter because it can have a loud bark once you start getting on the throttle. But from red light to red light, it gives you a nice crisp volume with a really decent tone there, that's super aggressive. Really deep, thanks to that H-pipe, but it's not overbearing like track mode.Track mode, on the other hand, is gonna be all out loud, that's what we expect from an active exhaust with most, if not all, of the aftermarket exhaust in the category. Five out of five for that mode in particular.Now, when it comes to sport mode there, sport mode is gonna be very similar to track with very subtle differences at low RPMs but still one of the louder options in the sound profile.At wide open throttle, you can expect an extremely loud bark. And at highway speeds, I'm actually surprised, there really isn't that much drone inside the cabin. Now, of course, in the louder modes like sport and track, you are gonna get a little bit of that in-cabin noise that's louder than most, but it's still not overbearing, you can have a conversation comfortably in your car or speak with the family in the passenger and back seats.In terms of quality, MBRP has a couple of different series options. They have the Installer Series, the XP, and the Pro Series, each one increases with quality of materials every time, with our Pro Series here being top of the line, 304 stainless steel. It's 3-inch mandrel bent tubing, a little larger than the factory one, which we'll take a closer look at later on. The mandrel bends are gonna help reduce any airflow restrictions.In terms of your mid-pipe, you're getting rid of the factory resonator in favor for this aftermarket H-pipe to give you that deep sound.Inside those mufflers here, the Pro Series from MBRP, you can expect Helmholtz resonator technology, which is, in layman's turns, gonna reduce all the high-pitch frequencies to give you a nice crisp sound without any of that annoying drone inside. Now, like I said earlier, there's some sound inside the cabin but it's not overbearing, thanks to that technology.Finally, your tips are gonna be a huge difference in the category, something that strays away from a lot of the traditional options like polished chrome or black. This is a polished-chrome tip with a carbon-fiber sleeve. So, it's a little bit thicker and a lot more aggressive and definitely adds a super unique touch differentiating your vehicle from some of the other Mustangs out on the road.This kit's gonna come in right around 650 bucks, not the most expensive but definitely not on the more entry-level side because of those higher-quality materials and that carbon-fiber finish at the tips.Now, the install for this I'm giving two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. You don't have to cut or do any nonsense like that, it is a direct bolt-on install. And I'm gonna walk you through that whole process. The only thing that differs for the active exhaust is you'll have to transfer over your factory active-exhaust valve actuators, just a couple of 10-millimeter nuts here and there. And I'll show you guys what that looks like soon as well. Now, overall, it'll take you 2, maybe 3, hours from start to finish, depending on your personal experience. Simple hand tools required. Let's get started.The tools used in this install include an impact gun, an extension, a ratchet, 10, 13, and 15-millimeter deep sockets, 10-millimeter wrench, a mallet, and PB Blaster or WD-40.All right. First step here is to unplug the active exhaust valve actuator harness. Now, that's gonna be located directly above your innermost exhaust tip on each side. So, right now we're on our passenger side, here's our innermost exhaust tip. If you stick your hand right through the opposite side, you can get up top here. Now, it's difficult to see but right where my pointer finger is this is the plug. You're gonna push up on the locking tab, it's a little white tab, then you're gonna pinch and disconnect. Just like that. The harness uplugs and you can sort of pull it down the other side. Just like that. Do the same thing on the other side.All right, same thing on the other side. This side, the driver's side, is a little bit easier to see. Just right here, push up on that white tab, pinch, and disconnect.All right, going forward, this is basically a regular exhaust uninstall. You're basically gonna take a 15-millimeter deep socket and loosen up the nuts on both of these clamps right in front of your factory resonator toward the front of the vehicle.Next up we're gonna remove the 2 13-millimeter bolts holding the factory hangers and isolators to the subframe, here at the rear. I find it to be way easier than popping these hangers out of the isolators because they're facing the opposite way. This is gonna make life so much easier. Grab your 13 socket. And I like to grab an extension and go over the rear sway bar and get these off.At that point, you're just gonna push and lift up to disconnect from the subframe.All right. Next up, before we remove the whole exhaust in one piece, grab some PB Blaster, or WD-40, and we're gonna lubricate the exhaust hangers and isolators right by the tips. All right, same thing on the other side.Next up here you can take the entire exhaust off in one piece from the band clamps we loosened up earlier back. Now, you might wanna have a helping hand on deck to help you by the exhaust mufflers. I have Joe here helping me out. I'm gonna use this mallet to tap these clamps backward a little bit, and then we're gonna pop it off.All right, so we got the factory exhaust off of our 18 GT, the active exhaust, and it's sitting next to our MBRP Pro Series with the carbon-fiber tips. Let's go through some similarities and differences between the two kits here. And at first, I wanna start at the front end of the vehicle.At the front end, you'll see a big difference in the mid-pipe. Your factory mid-pipe here has that resonator there that's gonna diminish some of the aggressive sound that you want out of your 18 GT. Now, I will say the 18 and newer Mustangs, the 5.0's sound really good off the factory line, but reducing or removing this resonator here is gonna reduce the airflow restriction and bump up some horsepower and torque. And that's what you see here with the MBRP Pro series. This is gonna use an aftermarket H-pipe which is gonna delete that factory resonator.Now, an H-pipe versus an X-pipe goes back and forth in terms of preference. The H-pipe here is known to give you a deeper throatier sound than you would get from an X-pipe, which is typically a little bit louder and raspier. So, you get a really deep profile note with that and it's also gonna be a lot more free flowing for the airflow reducing the restriction of the resonator.Moving forward, the entire kit here is 304 stainless steel, 3-inch mandrel bent tubing. The mandrel bends there are gonna reduce the kinks that you get from a factory exhaust, and the slightly larger tubing there, of course, gives you more volume of air flow going through.And then we move into the muffler, so, that's the next big change. Obviously, the size is not very different than the factory mufflers, it's pretty similar in that respect. What's built into the Pro Series muffler from MBRP is vastly different. What you're seeing in there is the Helmholtz design. The Helmholtz resonator design is a technology, built into this muffler here from MBRP, that cancels out the higher-pitch frequencies to reduce or even eliminate drone in some driving modes. Now, typically with something like this that's got a resonator delete. You get a lot more drone, especially at highway speeds. With that Helmholtz technology, all that high-pitch frequency is gonna get diminished there and lost inside of that muffler. The technology there goes a long way to keeping it very very crisp when it comes to the tone. You get all the high-quality sounds without any of the high-pitch.Now, you'll also notice that there's a bracket attached to the top there. That's where you're gonna transfer over the active exhaust actuator, which is that black piece right on the top of the tips there on the factory muffler. So, we're just gonna transfer it over just bolting it right into the new system.And then, finally, the tips are another big change, specifically with appearance. The factory tips aren't much of anything, they're just a raw piece of that material coming off of the exhaust. They have a slash cut to it but they're not very aggressive. They're, honestly, not even that polished. The new tips here are 304 stainless steel and have a polished finish underneath of what is a carbon-fiber sleeve. Now, that real carbon-fiber sleeve is bolted right on top of it to give you a very unique look. Something you typically only see with luxury cars or supercars out on the road, that carbon-fiber appearance tip. This is something you can get now for your own. Now, those carbon-fiber tips there, from MBRP, are 3.5 inches a piece and, of course, give you that quad tip you expect from the 18 and newer GT.Now, at this point, we have a couple of things to transfer over. We wanna make sure we're swapping over the active exhaust actuators and our rubber isolators from the center. So, let's get to it.All right, so, let's transfer over these isolators first. What you're basically gonna do is just twist them straight off and head on over to the new exhaust. All right, so, now when we put them on our new exhaust, you just wanna make sure that this tab at the top is facing the front of the vehicle where it connects to the subframe. All right. Now we can do the active exhaust actuators.All right, so, I'm gonna show you guys how to transfer these over. So, you'll need a 10-millimeter socket. You can use a ratchet or an impact gun. Grab three of these nuts off and we're gonna transfer them over.All right. Now, when you take this off, you wanna be careful not to pop off the spring. But if the spring does come off, you just wanna take a mental note of how this was on. So, you wanna just realize exactly how it was laid out because it is very specifically laid in there a certain way. So, we're gonna transfer it over just as it is, drop it into place.All right, so, now we're looking at our passenger-side muffler. We're gonna take this spring hub and seat it right at the stem of the exhaust valve, so, that guy there. Now you're gonna take your factory actuator and set it in place. Now, it's not gonna be oriented the same as the factory one, we're going to rotate it like that clockwise so that it drops on. You wanna look underneath to make sure that that spring is seating on that hub. So you'll see the little knobs in there seat. Now you can take the bolts included in the kit and put them through. All right, so, we're gonna do that for all three.All right, before you tighten these three bolts down, just make sure your spring is still seated properly. If not, you need to make adjustments to make sure it does seat, and then tighten your bolts down.All right. So, grab your 10 wrench and your 10 socket and tighten those three bolts down. Repeat that exact same thing on the other side just before you reinstall, just confirm that that spring's seated properly.First step of the install here, grab your factory clamps. We're gonna set them on over our cat pipes. You may need to open them up just a little bit there to get them to slide on nicely. They'll slide right back onto that little tab at the end there.All right. Now, if you need to, you can grab a mallet and just tap them all the way back there, but, at this point, we can grab our mid-pipe and set it into place. All right, just grab our mid-pipe here. We're gonna set it into place on the down-pipes. All right, you wanna make sure they're seating as far back as they can. Grab your 15 socket and tighten down those clamps.All right. So, next we can grab our pipe that's gonna go under our rear axle, slide it on to our driver's side. You're gonna rotate this pipe up and connect it to the subframe. All right, so, just lift this guy up and connect it to the subframe there. All right, same thing on the other side. Grab your 15 socket and tighten down both of those clamps. You may wanna leave a little bit of room for adjustment there, not over tightening it, just so we can make sure our tips are aligned properly at the end.All right, next up we're gonna install our muffler. I'm gonna install the hanger into the isolator above the tip first, line it up with our pipe back here and connect them. Now, if it makes it easier, once you have that slid in, you can grab a mallet, tap over here, and it'll seat all the way in.All right, once you have that seated all the way in, we can tighten our clamp down. And again, we just wanna get it snug for now, we'll make adjustments later. Grab your 15 socket and tighten it down.All right, while we're here, right above the muffler tip is the active exhaust actuator. Let's grab that factory harness and plug it right in. We're gonna make sure it seats all the way, push the locking tab down on the top, and now we can repeat for the other muffler.All right, same thing on the other side. We'll start with our hanger [inaudible 00:15:31] the isolator and then connect our pipe. All right, let's tighten down that clamp. So, now we can do the subframe hangers. Let's put our factory 13 bolts back in. Grab your 13 socket and extension, go over the sway bar and tighten them down. All right, let's just connect the other actuator on our other muffler.All right, so, now we can install our tips. I'm gonna slide that guy in place, grab a 13 swivel socket, just to make life easier, and tighten it down. All right, repeat on the other side. All right, now we can align our tips where we want them and tighten down our clamps, and you're good to go.That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the MBRP Pro Series cat-back exhaust with carbon-fiber tips, available for the 18 and newer GT with active exhausts. Get yours right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Pro-Series by MBRP. Upgrade your 2018-2021 Ford Mustang GT with the MBRP Pro Series Cat-Back Exhaust with Carbon Fiber Tips. This cat-back exhaust system delivers racing-inspired performance, optimizing exhaust flow which results in increased horsepower and torque.
Legendary MBRP Sound. Enjoy an aggressive roar upon acceleration and a sly drone when slowing down, completely transforming your vehicle's sound and leaving the competition in the dust. An internal Helmholtz Resonator design also helps to reduce drone.
Stainless Steel. The MBRP Pro Series Cat-Back Exhaust is manufactured from mandrel-bent, 3-inch T304 stainless steel tubing to provide solid durability and long lasting corrosion resistance. The system comes complete with a set of high flow dual mufflers for a 35 percent increase in airflow over your stock mufflers. Dual exhaust tips that are clad in real carbon fiber are included.
Installation. Simple hand tools are all that’s required to install the MBRP Pro Series Cat-Back Exhaust. This System bolts directly in place of your Mustangs OEM exhaust. No drilling or cutting required.
Application. The MBRP Pro Series Cat-Back Exhaust with Carbon Fiber Tips fits 2018-2021 Ford Mustang GT models equipped with Active Exhaust.
Fitment: 2018 2019 2020 2021 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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