Review & Install Video
Hey, guys. Adam here with AmericanMuscle.com, and today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Oracle Chrome OE Style headlights with the ColorSHIFT LED Halos available for the 2008 to the 2014 Challengers without HIDs. Now, if you do have HIDs, this exact same kit's available right in the category for you but this one is not gonna fit your vehicle so just keep that in mind.
Jumping right into it here, guys, this is a great option for anyone looking for an OE style headlight but with a really versatile LED ColorSHIFT halo. As you can see, we've got the halos in action right now in a full-color, smooth mode, which means it's changing through all of the main colors in a smooth, gradual way. Now, that is all custom. What you can do is go right on to the app because this kit includes a module that emits it's own WiFi to connect right to your smartphone so you can control it on an app. You can change to any color on a color wheel, making it so easy to use. This is a great option for guys not looking to cut open their factory headlights to glue in LED halos to make this work. This is a full kit, right out of the box, with a full headlight replacement already put together.
Now, if you take out your phone, you have access to this color wheel here. Now as you can see, we've got that color changing, but if I wanna take control and change it to any color, we can go green, blue, maybe split the difference, red. It's so versatile and so responsive. You can even go into a custom setting to make it do whatever we want. I've created a scene to go right into AM colors. We got some blue and orange happening here to give some AM colors. You can fully customize and do really whatever you want. There's also a strobe light mode and a bunch of other modes to flip through colors in a bunch of different ways. This also has full brightness control, full speed control, so, really, whatever you wanna do, you can do.
Now, this kit does require a little bit of splicing because it does have that module included in the kit, but it's one of the more premium options out there, and it's actually not that hard. It's as simple as it possibly could be with all the wiring involved. Now, this does have that OE styling so if you wanted to turn those LED halos off, you can do it right on your phone, right on that app, or just disconnect that module from under the hood, and it goes right back to looking like a completely bone stock vehicle.
The headlight housing themselves has that chrome high reflectivity, so the halos do look like they're reflecting into that chrome, but when you turn it off, it does look like a factory Challenger, which I really like. You get so much versatility that it can go to both sides of the spectrum, bone stock, or completely custom. So if you're looking to show up at cash shows and you wanna throw these lights on, you have them there, but if you wanna roll in the streets and be street legal, you have that option as well.
We'll take a really closer look at the details of those LEDs and comparing it to stock in just a little bit, but know this kit comes in right around the $700 mark. Again, it's a pre-made kit, right out of the box, so you're not doing any cutting or anything like that that you have to do with bare LEDs by themselves, so it does put a higher price tag on the kit. But in my opinion, if you're looking for color-changing halos, this is the absolute way to go.
Now, the install for that is gonna get the full three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. The front bumper does have to come off for any headlight job, which, of course, takes a little bit more mechanical experience but you can still get it done in the driveway at home. The module included in the kit does splice the wires in, but it couldn't be simpler, and I'll walk you through that in a minute. It took about three hours from start to finish. I'd imagine it'd take you about the same with some experience and the right tools. Simple hand tools are required, so we're gonna walk through the tools. So what do you say we get started?
Now, the tools needed for this install include an impact gun, a couple of extensions, a ratchet, T27 Torx bit, 7-millimeter deep socket, short 10-millimeter, and a deep 10-millimeter socket, 13-millimeter deep socket, and a universal swivel socket is recommended, panel removal tool, some wire strippers, wire cutters, a very small flat-head screwdriver. And the recommended tools needed for the install would be 3M tape, additional wiring, quick splice ring terminals, and a couple of zip ties.
Guys, first up here, we're gonna pop our hood and remove that factory shroud from the top our rad. Now it's in two pieces, what you're gonna do is go to this open hole on the side, pull out, and just remove it from underneath your hood latch. Do the same thing on the other side. Now, these two plastic panels here are attached to your front bumper, holding it to your frame. Now, what you wanna do is grab a panel removal tool, flat-head screwdriver works as well. I just find this to be a little easier, and we're gonna remove these plastic rivets, so the plastic push pin clips. Pull the top portion out, followed by the bottom. Do that for all six.
All right. Now that we have under the hood taken care of, this is detached, we gotta do the sides and wheel well and remove it from underneath as well. So what we're gonna do is put the vehicle up in the air. If you guys don't have access to a lift, make sure you're using a jack and jack stands. So you wanna get the vehicle up in the air enough to access the bottom of your chin splitter. Now, the chin splitter is attached to the bumper, so we need to detach it from the belly pan. Now, we don't have to fully remove the entire belly pan because it's really just the bumper we're worried about. So if we get our 7-millimeter socket, we have a couple of bolts all along the edges here, we are missing a couple, guys, so if you have these holes filled, make sure you're removing those as well. We're gonna tackle the ones we have here, so grab a 7 socket and remove these bolts.
All right. So now we want access to our wheel well. Now, if you need to, you can turn your wheel both sides just to gain a little bit better access to it. Grab a panel removal tool or that flat-head screwdriver, and we're gonna remove those same push pin clips we had earlier but the ones in this wheel well. Now, there's one at the bottom here. Then it goes one, two, three. You don't have to keep going all the way around. Just make your way up to where your bumper meets your fender. This is what we need to detach, so grab that panel tool, and we're gonna start working these off. This one here is a little bit disconnected but just to show you guys how that works, pull out the top and pull out the bottom. Now repeat that for all of these.
Now as you can see, we've got a bolt that's a little awkward to get to. I'm gonna use two extensions, a swivel joint, and a deep 10-millimeter socket to remove the nut on a stud that's right about here. You wanna go straight back in the wheel well to the stud pointing straight back to the rear. Now, the stud is right about here, facing that way with a 10-millimeter nut on it so what I'm gonna do is put this straight back, loosen it up, and then put my hand in there to get the nut, so it doesn't fall. And here's what we're gonna do, peel that back. You're just gonna peek your head in there. It's not too deep, so once you hang this on, get it to connect, and we'll remove it. Perfect. Now it's just loose enough that I can get in there and grab it. If it does fall, there is that belly shield there to help grab it. It's a tricky little guy, but with a couple of extensions and a swivel socket, that will definitely be easier to grab.
Now, just because it's the last thing holding on this slightly smaller splash shield, we're gonna grab this 10-millimeter bolt right here. It's really easily accessible, not like that last one. Perfect. You can set that aside and repeat for the other side. Now, at this point, you wanna disconnect the bulb for this quarter market light. Now, what you're gonna do is just stick your hand in here, twist, and just pull the bulb out of the socket. I know it's tough to see here, but once you twist it, it should pop right out. All you're gonna wanna do is just twist and pull right back out, and then you can just leave that right in there.
All right. So now we got the Challenger lowered down again, so we're under the hood, we have two more bolts, two more nuts, rather, one on each side by the headlight. So right here in this corner, where the bumper meets the fender, there is just one little 10-millimeter nut. I'm gonna use an extension, that swivel socket again, and a 10-millimeter deep socket and we're gonna remove that from both sides starting on our passenger. Now, it is a very short stud, and ours just fell down there under the belly pan again, so that's great. But once you get that off, just repeat for the other side.
Now, all of our bolts are removed for the bumper removal. All we have to do now is just disconnect that panel from the side where our wheel well is on both sides, and then we should be able to just pull this whole thing off in one piece. So all you really wanna do is just reach down, you're just gonna pop and disconnect. Just be real gentle. You don't wanna scratch any paint. Tilt that. Do the same thing on the other side. Disconnect on the driver side as well. Now we can lift up from the top and pull off. Wanna put it gently on the ground here. We just wanna disconnect our fog lights, then we can set it aside. Now, for the fog lights, again, pinch, pull straight back. As you can see, this harness does connect with a couple of Christmas tree clips, you just pull them off as well.
Now, guys, we did all that work, now we can finally get to the headlight removal. You wanna grab a T27 Torx bit. There's two screws right on the bottom. One here on the top and then we can pull that housing out. So I'm gonna use an extension to make life a little easier. We're gonna go straight through and remove this top one first. Make sure you're holding on to them for later. All right. Now we have two down here on the bottom. Once you get this last one out, headlight is gonna start falling so make sure can grab it, just set it down. Now these two bulbs here have a red locking tab so right on the back here, you're just gonna lift up on the locking tab, you're gonna pinch, and disconnect those harnesses. Now we can set our factory headlight aside. All right. Now you can repeat for the other side.
Well, guys, we got our factory headlights finally off of our 2013 RT behind me. Now I have one factory and one of our Oracles on the table here to give you a side by side comparison, and for the most part, visually, there's not a whole lot different until the lights are turned on. The only exception being that LED ring. So before I jump into that, know that this is a factory housing, factory styling with the exception of the LEDs, all made using OEM quality, CAD data from Dodge to make sure it's a perfect fit. The lenses are a high-quality polycarbonate lens, just like the factory ones. They are a chrome housing as well, with a high reflectivity, which means that all of the new custom lights will definitely look a lot brighter and they'll look like they're a lot more involved in the housing than they are because of the reflectivity.
Now, those LED rings that you're seeing are right around the halos there, and those are the RGB LEDs. They're really bright. Really responsive. They're very attractive, and they're gonna be a lot brighter than a factory bulb. They're gonna be a lot brighter than some of the other options out there. Now, Oracle does sell a lot of different versions. They have the CCFLs, the SMD LEDs, and the Plasmas. This is the SMD. Now, it might not be as bright as some of the more top tier kind of quality LEDs, but for what you're getting here, it's a lot brighter than factory and a lot brighter than most of the other options in the category.
This emits its own WiFi signal, so you can connect to this on your phone to connect this using Oracle's smartphone app. Now, the smartphone app allows you to change the color to, literally, whatever color you want. They have the little dial wheel that you can scroll through yourself, but they also allow you to do a do-it-yourself custom program, which means you can change the RGB as you want to really create your own color. Now, that's really useful because a lot of the other ones just have preset configurations, which this does have but it allows you to take that a little bit further and that's what you're getting for this a little bit higher of a price tag for this kit. Now, all that's taken care of using that smartphone app and the WiFi emitted from this module here.
Now, one of the other things I really wanna point out between this, comparing it to some of the other ones on the market, this does not need to be in sight of a controller. What that basically means is some of the other modules and some of the alternative kits, use an IR signal, and if you know anything about the IR or infrared signal, you need to be within arm's reach. You need to be within sight line of that. That's not the case here. You have a 100-foot radius from this box that will allow you to work with that WiFi, which is great. You don't need to mount it somewhere that you can see it. It doesn't have to be on the dashboard or the windshield or anything on the front grille. You guys can hide this away as long as you're within a 100 feet, it works, so I really like that. Now one of the other things that you wanna keep in mind is because it's already built in, you don't have to think about your factory housing. Now, a lot of alternatives also make you cut open your housing to install these rings, but with that Oracle preset, it's not gonna be our case here.
Turning that around, does get a little bit complicated at the back end but nothing we can't tackle. There's a bunch of wires we gotta tackle for splicing. Now, there's about four of them. There's, of course, two grounds, for both of the sides of the LEDs and the other ones are colored to let you know that they're the positive cables. Now, I'm gonna show you guys every step of that. I just wanted to show you the back here. So it looks like a bit of a rat's nest straight out of the box, but we'll take care of that, get it nice and neat, and splice them together. So, first, what we're gonna do is install them, then we'll take care of the splicing.
All right. So, now, we're gonna take our passenger side Oracle headlight, gonna set it into place here. Start unraveling some of this wiring. What we're gonna do is tuck it inside here. You don't wanna trap it outside of this frame here so what you wanna do is tuck it in right near your washer fluid reservoir on your passenger side, just so it doesn't get caught up anywhere. Bring that all the way through. Grab your factory harness, and you're gonna plug them into the same position they were in on your stock headlights. This is gonna go here, click that down, drop the red locking tab, do the same thing for the black harness. Perfect. Now we can set this back into the factory position. All right. Grab your stock hardware, and we're gonna put it back through. Grab your Torx bit. I'm just gonna use the extension to get it in there, just a couple of threads to hold it in place. All right. Now you can grab your impact gun or your ratchet and tighten these down. Now you can repeat for the other side.
All right. So now we can put our bumper right back in the front of our vehicle. What we're gonna do is plug in our fog light and our quarter light on the side. Grab that brown harness, you're gonna snap that back into the fog light. All right. Perfect. And since we have easy access to it, we might as well grab our bulb that we disconnected earlier in the wheel well. We have a bit easier time now, so we're just gonna twist that back into the housing. Perfect. Repeat for the other side.
Now what I'm gonna do is take those Christmas tree clips, and we're gonna put those back into those retaining holes. There is three of them here, so just reconnect them if they're still intact. Now, there are additional ones here if you wanna come all the way the middle. Can reconnect that. It's a little bit tighter. This one here is actually closed up, so we're gonna skip that one. What we're gonna do is re-position our bumper. Wanna make sure these headlight studs are going back into the holes. Perfect. Now you can reconnect your wheel wells. Perfect. Same thing on the other side.
Now we can start bolting that bumper back up. We're gonna take our 10-millimeter nut and do the corner headlight pieces first. Make sure your stud's through that little hole there. You can feed this on. I know it's a real tight squeeze but if you can get this on, just a couple of threads, or even just started up, grab your socket and your swivel, tighten it down. Perfect. Now repeat for the other side.
Now while we're under the hood, we're gonna grab our plastic rivets and replace them on the black panel here holding on the front of the bumper. Just push them down, push down the plug. Super simple. Perfect. So now that we have the car back up in the air, grab your 10-millimeter nut that holds onto the stud, that's right about here, facing the rear of the vehicle that we've removed earlier. Now, again, I know it was really tough to see earlier. Couldn't really show it on camera. So I'm gonna put my hand in there, just kinda thread it in as much as I can by my fingers and then we'll grab my contraption with the two extensions, the swivel and the 10. So, let's get in there. Cool.
Now you're gonna grab that little flap and then re-install that onto the side here. They are marked "LH" and "RH" for left-hand, and right-hand side so make sure you got the right one, fits like a glove and just thread that 10 millimeter bolt back in there. Grab a 10 socket and tighten that down. All right. Now you can take those plastic rivets and line up that wheel well liner, tighten them down. All right. So now we got the car a little bit higher in the air, we're gonna reconnect our splitter to this splash shield [inaudible 00:20:28] the belly pan, grab those 7-millimeter bolts, tighten them down.
All right. Now we can get started on some of the wiring. What we wanna do is get our driver side wiring you see here routed to the passenger side in order to hook up to that router module for the WiFi connection. The only thing prohibiting us from getting to that side is the bolt here holding on your factory airbox to rad support. Now what you can do to get around that is I have this, and I'm gonna wire it straight through here with our ABS line. What we wanna do is disconnect this little clip here, and this little clip and what we're gonna do is take that and run it under this bolt to the other side. That way, whenever you need to take your airbox off, you don't have to worry about unclipping your wiring. So just feed that over and reconnect that harness clip. If you don't do this and just run it above that bolt, anytime you wanna take this off, your wiring's in the way. You can't. So this is definitely gonna make life a little easier for you. Perfect. Now with that wiring fed under that bolt, we can start running this to the other side. And by doing that, you just wanna unravel the harnesses. That gives you a ton of extra wire.
Now, securing these back, of course, is, you know, it's all personal preference how you wanna do it. There are ABS lines right here, like I said. You can zip tie those easily to the ABS lines, and that would just secure this under here, out of the way. You wouldn't even see them. They'd be tucked under this rad support right here. So that's probably what we're gonna do. We're gonna grab some zip ties and just secure those back now, but you wanna make sure you have enough wiring going all the way over to this side.
All right. So first, you wanna grab your zip tie, and we're just gonna start securing these back. Slide those under your ABS lines. All right. Once you get it to come all the way back through, just clip those zip ties back. Perfect. We'll cut the access when we're done. And next, you see those two resistors here, the resistors are gonna be somewhere along this backside, so you might wanna...you can either stack them and zip tie them back that way. You can put them one after the next. Again, personal preference. All right. Now you can take wire cutters and just snip the excess on the zip ties to make it a little cleaner.
Now, of course, our battery is in the trunk, so what we're gonna do before we start playing with live wires is to grab a 10-millimeter socket, and we're just gonna disconnect the negative terminal on our battery and just set it aside, so it doesn't contact that terminal. Once you have that disconnected, just pull it out of the way, so it doesn't contact that terminal again.
What we're gonna do for our wiring is start with our passenger side headlight and untangle all the wires. You wanna untie them, get them nice and loose and what we're gonna do is twist together or splice together the colors for our passenger side. So we're gonna put the green to the green, the black to the black, the blue to the blue, and the red to the red and then we're gonna do the same thing to our driver side. And then each one is gonna come together for passenger and driver, and then they'll go into the module. So it is pretty simple. It's gonna be a little time consuming, but it's pretty simple. So we'll start with our red so just peel that red off just to get a little bit more freedom and the red from the other wire coming off that same headlight and these two reds are gonna get twisted together. Just like that. So now the reds are connected. Do the same thing with the blue and then the green and then the black. All right. So now you have both sets of wiring from the passenger side spliced together by color. Do the same thing for the driver side.
Now that we have the two from the driver side and two from the passenger side together, we gotta put the driver and passenger side together into one. So what we're gonna do is take the black ground from the passenger side to the black ground from the driver side, and these guys are gonna go together. So, really, you're taking two wires on each side and splicing them into four. So when you're twisting them together, you should twist them so that both sides come together just like this. They'll be twisted together into one wire. All right. So that's the green, same thing for the red and blue.
Now that we have our wires twisted together by color: we have reds, blues, green, and black, we're gonna start splicing them into our module here. Now on the top, you'll notice the output box is labeled R-G-B, red, green, blue. That's exactly where you're gonna put them. The reds are gonna go right in this red slot, and you're gonna tighten it down using a very small flat-head screwdriver for the screw up top, so you don't actually really need to splice. Everything is built right into this easy to use module. What we're gonna do first is grab the red wires and you're gonna line it up to the red slot, right in here, grab your flat-head, and just tighten down the screw. Once you have that tight, just give it a quick tug. If it's secure and they're not falling out, you're good to move on. Next, we're gonna grab our green, do the same thing right next to it in the "G" slot. All right. Give it a tug, move on to the blue. All right. Now, for your black wires, those are gonna skip NC and go to V+. So your ground wire is here, your black wires will go right to V+. Perfect.
Now on the left, you see input. Input has a plus sign on the left and a minus on the right. Plus is your positive, minus is your negative. Now, you are gonna have to pick up and use separate wiring, not included in the kit. We've got two red wires here. The longer portion, we're gonna use for our positive. The shorter one here, we're gonna use for our negative. Now what we're gonna have to do is splice on these small ring terminals. I'm gonna use this ring terminal connected to that red wiring to go to our fuse box positive right here. So we're gonna pull this 13-millimeter nut off and bolt this down there, that's gonna give us a good positive connection. Underneath the fuse box, there is a ground strap going to the frame here or the body. I'm gonna remove that 10-millimeter and do the same thing for our negative.
So first thing's first, we gotta splice these on. What I'm gonna do is I'm gonna use my clamp to hold on to our ring terminal, I'm gonna take our wiring with the exposed wire after you strip it, slide that in here, clamp her down. Perfect. Give it a tug, make sure it's secure. This end's gonna go to that positive on the fuse box, so what you're gonna do is grab a 13-millimeter socket and remove that. Pretty simple. Once you get that off, grab that ring terminal, slide it over that stud, put this back in place. Now the other end of that wire, we're gonna put into the plus sign on the input, so that's gonna be our first slot. Slide that in there and tighten down the screw. Give it a tug. Perfect. Do the exact same thing for the other wire, only it's gonna go down to that ground strap underneath. Clamp that down. Perfect. Now for this, you're gonna need a 10-millimeter socket, we're gonna go straight down here to our ground. All right. Once you get that nut off, put the ring terminal over the stud and replace the nut. Tighten her down. All right. Now, the other end can go into the minus or the second slot on your module, and that's gonna be your ground. Grab your screwdriver, tighten her down. Perfect.
All right. Next up, we're gonna mount our unit. Now, what we're gonna use is 3M tape. Now, you wanna pick up 3M tape separately. It's not included in the kit. We've got two strips here on the back of our module and what we're gonna do is apply it right here to the inside of our wheel well. Where you mount it is completely up to you. You wanna mount it somewhere that is gonna be clean-looking, somewhere that's going to be in arm's reach, and this is a pretty good spot. So we got 3M down there. We're just gonna put pressure to make sure it's getting a good bond. Guys, once your module is mounted and you're ready to turn them on, hit match on the back of the module, go to your WiFi, connect to the WiFi, that the module is emitting, download the app, and you're good to go.
Now, if we take a closer look at this app once our lighting is installed and we're connected, you have the option to use this color wheel. And as you can see, we have white LED halos on right now, so it can look pretty stock, and we can even adjust the brightness of these LEDs with this simple bar. Bring that all the way down, and it dims those lights but still has them on real subtle. It's a good way to drive on the street if you're looking to keep it street legal and just have a little bit of an accent. Now, if you wanted to bring that brightness back up, you do so really quickly and change the color. Bring it back down for a deep blue, and you can really go all the way around this color wheel, and it reacts in real-time, which is really cool. You then have the option to go to a scene. We have AM colors, so I can select that. That's a preset custom scene, and that will change between blue and orange. It looks like AM colors.
Go to mode, and these are preset modes. You can scroll to this wheel for dozens of modes. So if you wanna do static green, you can have that as a preset color. You can do an R-G-B skip, so it does the red, green, blue, skipping back and forth. But let's change that speed down to speed three, that means it's gonna hold each color at a speed of three. So a couple of seconds go by, and it changes, but we can even bring the brightness down. So there's such good versatility here. We can do a white strobe. Just a bit much, but if you like that sort of thing, it's something to use. Can even bring the speed down so that it doesn't strobe as quickly, adjust that brightness.
And then finally, you can go over to DIY. Now, as I said, we created the scene of the AM colors, but you can make it do whatever you want. Say we wanna do the AM colors in blue and orange but change it to strobe, gradual, or jump, so it flickers back and forth. You can change the brightness for your scene, and you can change the speed. And then finally, you can hit save and set it as a preset in one of your scenes. So you can hit scene three, change that, and you can name it. Let's name it AM, hit okay, and now it's saved in your scenes. Hit play and you can switch between them. Something to take a look at. There's a lot of different ways to use this, and you can connect more than one device. If you wanted to add a light bar with the same color changing lights from Oracle, you could connect that and have them both right here on the app.
Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Oracle Chrome OE Style headlights with the ColorSHIFT LED Halos for the '08 to '14 non-HID Challengers. If you wanna pick this one up for your own Challenger, you can do so right here at AmericanMuscle.com.