Review & Install Video
Hey guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today we're taking a quick look at and installing the Oracle LED Halo Surface Mounting Kit available for the '08 to '14 Challenger. Now, you should be checking out this particular set of LEDs if you're looking to beef up your front end appearance, get a more custom look with a bright LED halo without, number one, taking your bumper off to swap your headlights or, number two, cutting open your factory headlights to insert LEDs inside which is a common thing that a lot of guys with Challengers do. This is the easy, safe and cost-efficient alternative. What do I mean by that? Now these are surface mount which means, 3M Automotive bonding tape is holding on this horseshoe-shaped halo ring to the front lens of your headlight. You do it from right outside of the vehicle in between your trim. It is that easy. A lot of guys might be skeptical of 3M tape holding it onto the outside, it's gonna fall off, rain's gonna get to it. Not gonna be the case here. These are IP67 waterproof and splash proof which means they're protected from your daily weather. So, rain, snow, sleet, hail. None of that stuff's gonna get this. 3M tape, especially when used with the adhesion promoter which is included in the kit, is gonna help stick this to your headlights for the long term. The LEDs are rated for up to 90,000 hours of continuous use so they're not burning out. LEDs are known to last the longest of some of the light bulbs out there so I'm not concerned about that. You shouldn't be either. These things are gonna last a lifetime. So the other thing that's really cool about them is you can pick the color of your preference. They offer white, green, blue, red and amber halo LEDs for your front end. What we have here is, of course, the white. So anytime your parking lights are on or your headlights are on, these guys come on too. But during the day, if you don't want them one and your headlights are off, they're off as well. So, personally, I really like that. You can also wire them straight into your headlights. If you only want them on with your headlights, you can do that. Again, personal preference. I'm gonna show you guys what I think is the absolute easiest mounting solution and wiring solution to these. You'll pick up vampire splice connectors as well as male spade connectors and I'll show you guys what that means in just a little bit when we jump into the install. Now these are gonna come in around the $200 mark which is a lot more affordable than a full set of headlight replacements. Oracle does offer these built-in to a new housing to make it look completely OEM which comes in right around the $800 mark. So if you're looking to cut cost but get the same output in lighting and appearance, this is a great alternative. The install, I'm gonna give a soft two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Anytime splicing is involved, it does beef up the install just a little bit but this is extremely simple guys. What do you say we get started? Now the tools recommended for the install include a quarter-inch ratchet and a 10-millimeter short socket, wire cutters, pliers, a light tester, soap and water mixture as well as a microfiber is recommended but not required. It's also recommended to pick up vampire splice connectors as well as male spade connectors. Adhesion promoter included in the kit and an alcohol wipe. Guys, the first step here is to pop your hood and we're gonna remove the top radiator covers. Now, these, right from the trunk latch, will just lift straight up and disconnect from the side. It is super easy. Now you can just set them aside. Guys, the next step is gonna be to run your halos into position but not actually stick them down just yet. Youwanna tackle the wiring first to make sure all the LEDs are properly working. You wouldn't wanna wire them up later to find out that they're not working after you've already glued them to your headlights. That's not gonna be any fun to get off. So what we're gonna do is slide our headlight halos through into position, run our wiring, start the wiring and then move on. Now, there is a tight space so it's gonna be harder for you to run the wiring upward than it will be to run the halos down. So we're gonna put our wiring up here, take our halo and just slide it through the crack and mount them through. So you can see this crack here in front of the headlight lens. These are a perfect shape to just feed right through. All right and they mount just like that. Now your wiring is tucked up in there and it's not visible. Now you're gonna do the same thing for the other one on our driver side. Next we wanna feed our wiring down to our headlight harness in order to do some splicing but what we don't want is for our wiring to be over the rad support. Then our rad covers won't go back on properly and honestly, it's gonna look pretty ugly. So what we want to do is take the wiring and feed them underneath of this bar and bring them up from underneath. Now in order to do that, there's a spot right through here where you can feed your resistor. Your resistor's the biggest part here. When you feed that through, your wiring will follow. Just like that. Now we can go underneath. It's a tight squeeze but you can definitely, you know, pass it off to your other hand and now it's underneath. You wanna do the same thing for both. Now this one is gonna be a little bit easier on the outside. We can actually just feed this toward our wheel well and right under that frame piece and do the same thing so it's not over the crossbar here. Guys, now what I'd recommend doing is once you have both wires fed tunderneath of that bar, grab some zip ties, not included in the kit. So you wanna pick them up separately or something similar and secure back this resistor. Now you don't want it rattling around in here. So there's two pre-drilled holes on the sides. You can actually just feed the zip tie through one of them to secure this back. The alternative is you can pick up 3M tape and throw it on the back and stick it somewhere. This, I think, might be just a little bit easier for you. Where you stick it is completely up to you. I'm gonna go right to this crossbar here. The same thing for both of them and then you can cut the excess. All right. Now we can cut this excess on the zip tie. Next up, I'm going to unplug our parking light harness. When you want your halos to turn on is completely up to you. I want them to come on with our parking lights. So what we're gonna do is unplug this factory harness just by pulling back on this red tab here. You can use a flathead or something to pull that tab back just to unlock it. Go in, pinch and disconnect. Now what we need to do is figure out which one of these wires...these white wires is our power. Now, we have the black as our ground and we're gonna test these two by putting a light tester in the pins. Now what we need to do is, basically, figure out which wire this red is going to splice to. The black is gonna be spliced to our ground. The red needs to go to one of these. Grab a light tester, turn your lights on and we'll test this out. All right. So we want our halos to come on when our parking lights are on. So we're testing to see which one is gonna be the correct wire and there it is. This is lighting up. The middle wire is our white and purple. So that's what we'll splice into for our red powers. All right. Before we get to any wiring, you wanna disconnect the negative terminal on your battery. So we're gonna grab a 10-millimeter socket and just loosen this guy up. All right. Just make sure it's out of the way and not gonna touch the terminal again. All right. So what we're gonna do for the splicing is pretty particular and I think this is gonna be one of the easier methods. Of course, it can be all personal preference. If you wanna do it your own way, obviously, you're free to do so. This is what I recommend doing. The way this works is this vampire clip is gonna splice right onto the factory harness without actually needing to cut anything. It'll clamp right under your power and your ground because we'll do it for both and then on the back, once it's closed, a male spade connector will hook right in. So we're gonna splice our halo wires to this and then clamp this to our factory and then plug them in. It's that simple. No cutting of the wires is gonna be needed. That way you can easily return it to factory if you ever wanted to. You don't have to worry about splicing your wires back together. Easy stuff. So I'd recommend picking these up. Now what we're gonna do is take both halos from our driver side, splice them together and run them to one spade connector. So they'll come together into one of these and then we'll clamp them to our positive. So let's get to it. All right. So we're gonna take both of our grounds from our halos and we're gonna twist those guys together. If you need to, you can strip back some more and expose more wire if you find that easier. Once they're twisted together, you're gonna insert that into the spade and clamp them down. Give it a tug, make sure it's secure and repeat for the other one. So now we're gonna take our both positives, twist them together and do the same thing. Give it a pull, make sure it's secure. And now we can use our vampire connectors to cut into our positive and negative cables on the factory harness. Now for this, if you need to, you can push back that tape to gain more access to the wiring and I think that's gonna make life a little easier. Now the way these will work is you wanna find the positive and you're gonna clamp them right into this connector. Safely and securely snap into your positive. Do the same thing for your ground. From here, what we're gonna do isn't we're not gonna hook them up here because we don't want this above our bar. We wanna go underneath. So I'll feed this factory harness underneath to connect them and then we'll reconnect it to our lights. All right. From here, plug your ground spade into your ground connector and your positive into your positive. All right. They'll seat snug just like that. You'll hear it click. You want to go all the way down as far as it can possibly go. All right. Now reconnect your wiring. All right. Now we can plug in that factory connector. Once it's plugged in, push down on that red locking tab and it's secure. Repeat this for the other side. Guys, at this point, what you wanna do is test out your lights before you mount your halos. Make sure everything is correct. If something isn't working, check your wiring. Make sure they're going to the right place. Make sure they're tight and secure. Make sure your spade connectors, if you're using them, are tight and secure. All right. Now mounting your halos to your factory headlights is very simple. You're gonna need two things, one of which is included in the kit. Now, included in the kit is adhesion promoter. Now this is what you're gonna wanna use to really, really get a perfect bond, something that is going to be very difficult to come off. So that's gonna be a good idea for guys who wanna make it a more permanent solution who don't have any plans in removing it and also for the guys who want that added security, you know. Some guys might be a little bit sketched out by 3M tape. 3M tape used on the back of these halos is specifically meant for automotive use. It's meant to take the beating from weather. It's meant to take the beating from daily driving, dirt, dust, debris, all that good stuff. That's not gonna get this off but for peace of mind, use adhesion promoter. Now, also, you wanna pick up cleaning tissues. Something like an alcohol wipe. This is gonna make sure there's no dirt and dust prohibiting a bond on the lens of your headlight. That's what we're gonna use first. We are not gonna use adhesion promoter because these will be removed for the sake of this video. What I'm gonna do is show you guys how to mount them without it. So you're gonna open up an alcohol wipe. You can also use soap and water if you have that. You just wanna make sure you are cleaning. This is one of the more crucial steps in the process. Now the 3M is going to mount around the edges of your headlight lens. So just go all around the edging there, make sure this is nice and clean. The same thing for both. Once it's clean, if you're using adhesion promoter, you're gonna open this up and wipe in that same spot. That's just gonna make sure the 3M gets really good bond. From there, peel off the 3M tape backing all around your halos. There are three separate strips all along. Now for this U-shape, the open portion's gonna be at the top. You want the halos to be completely visible throughout your entire headlight. You're gonna get this in position right where you want it and stick it into place. Do the same thing for both. All right. Once you have it where you want it, put pressure all around. Repeat for the other side and you're good to go. All right. With both sides taking care of and everything tested, we're gonna put our rad cover back on. Just snaps right into place on both sides. From here, we'll reconnect the negative terminal on our battery and we'll be good to go. Put our negative cable back on. Grab your 10 socket and tighten it down. Perfect. Shut your trunk and you're good to go. Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Oracle LED Halo Surface Mount Headlight Kit available for the '08 to '14 Challenger and you can pick your set up right here at americanmuscle.com.