Check and replace all hardware as needed. Improper hardware can lead to noise or poor brake pad performance. Clean the caliper rails or hardware slides where the pads make contact. Clean the hub-mating surface with a wire brush. Rust or debris on the hub can cause rotor run out and lead to wheel vibration.
Resurface the rotor or replace the rotor. Most auto retailer stores provide rotor resurfacing. After machining, use a 120-grit sandpaper on the rotor in a light circular motion to give a non-directional finish. Clean the rotor with mild soap and wipe clean with a lint-free cloth. Do not use petroleum-based cleaners.
Install the new rotor and remount the caliper bracket (not the piston part) to the spindle knuckle arm. Use brake grease to lubricate the edge of the brake pad backing plate
where it touches the caliper bracket sliding surfaces. Do not put grease on the friction material. The lubricant also goes between the brake pad backing plate and the piston
or caliper back. Don't over-look this. If you don't do it, you may get brake noise when you apply the brakes.
With the caliper bracket bolted to the spindle, reinstall the brake pads. Slide the caliper over the pads and rotor and line up the bolt holes. Bolt the caliper to the caliper
bracket. Torque caliper and caliper bracket bolts to manufacturer specifications.
Bleed the brakes to remove air from the brake line. First make sure the brake fluid is full to the top. When you open the bleeder screw, have a buddy press down slowly on the pedal as you monitor the bleeder screw. Before he releases the pedal, close the bleeder screw. This prevents sucking air back into the brake caliper. Repeat this process until you see a constant stream of fluid with no bubbles, then close the bleeder screw. It usually takes 5 or 6 pumps of the pedal to clear the air and old brake fluid out of the line. You may need to pump quite a few times more if you haven't changed your brake fluid in a long time. Check the master cylinder reservoir and replace brake fluid to the MAX line. Do not overfill the reservoir. Pump the brakes several times to seat the brake pads to the rotor and check the reservoir one more time. Top off as necessary.
Replace the wheel and lugs. Drop the car to the ground to finish tightening the bolts to the manufacturer's specified bolt torque. Alternate tightening sequence by going to
the opposite side of the hub. A torque gun is not recommended.
Break — in new brake pads and rotors as shown below.