(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com and today we're taking a closer look at and uninstalling the Raxiom Halo Projector Headlights in the sequential turn signal, black housing and clear lens finish, available for the '08 to '14 Challenger without factory HIDs. Now, if your Challenger came from the factory with halogens, you might be looking to switch out the factory reflector halogen headlights for a modernized, much more attractive, and aggressive look at the front end. Now, these are gonna switch up not only the design on the inside, but also the technology that powers them to make them a lot more attractive and more functional. Now, H7 high and low beams are already built into the housing, they are a brighter, more attractive, much more effective headlight, especially at nighttime compared to your factory reflector housing. You're also getting these bright white DRL LED rings going around the projector housing there, which will work as, like I said, DRLs or daytime running lights.So, that'll come on anytime you flick your parking lights or headlights on, they'll get those pure white lights there as an accent. Now, those are plug-and-play. They don't require any splicing, no cutting, no modification, they just plug right in using the new harnesses. Now, aside from that, you also get a bonus with this headlight, sequential turn signals. On this inner headlight here, you also have an amber ring that goes around that work in conjunction with your turn signals, parking lights, and hazards. And anytime you turn your turn signals or hazards on, they'll blink and sequence going around that ring. Now, that's not usually something you get at the front end of a vehicle. Typically it's a tail light feature, which definitely looks really, really good at the front end. Now, the actual housing itself is a black interior housing and it's combined with a clear lens to give you the impression of a smoked headlight without impeding any of that light output.Now, we'll take a closer look at that comparing it to stock in just a little bit. Another added feature here with these headlights is that inner circle here has a removable insert. Now, that insert is there for specifically Hellcat models with the Hellcat lower airbox. But of course, you can pop it out even if you don't have the Hellcat if you're looking for some added airflow there as well, just a nice little touch built into these Raxiom lights. Now, in terms of pricing, it comes in right around 550 bucks. The install here I'm giving two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. You do have to remove your factory front bumper, which is just required doing headlight jobs on the front end of these Challenges but it's just gonna take about two hours from start to finish and very simple hand tools. I'm gonna walk you through the whole process. And again, these are plug-and-play so you won't have to do any splicing. What do you say we get started? All right, tools used in this install include an impact gun or a ratchet, a couple of extensions, universal swivel joint is recommended, 10-millimeter deep and swivel sockets, Phillips head screwdriver, a panel removal tool, and a pair of pliers.All right, now for the gun install, we do have to remove our bumper to access the headlight bolts. What we're gonna have to do is a couple of preliminary things, we pop the hood, we're gonna remove the two pieces for the radiator shroud to expose a couple of pushpin clips, and I'll use this panel removal tool to get those off. So, under the hood, you'll find this little open hole on the side on each side. You're gonna pull up on that and set these guys aside. All right, now the first points that are connecting the bumper are these little black pushpin clips. There's six of them on the black pieces. There are a couple in between that are on, you know, your factory paint color, in our case Hemi orange. You don't have to do those that are sitting on the paint color, just on the black plastic trim. Use a panel removal tool or something similar to get these guys off. You're basically just lifting up on the centerpiece, and then it loosens up and you can pull it out. Set these aside.All right, now in the corners above each headlight where the bumper meets the fender, there's a small 10-millimeter nut on a stud holding on the corners there, we have to get that off. For this, I would highly recommend a 10-millimeter swivel socket. I'm gonna use my impact gun, an extension, and my swivel socket here. It might be a little tough to see but once you get that locked on there, you can get it off. All right, just be careful not to drop it in, it can be pretty difficult. All right, just like that. Repeat that on the other side. For this one, we put the Challenger up in the air a little bit but you can work on the ground as well. We're gonna be removing the four plastic pushpin clips in the wheel well, this is holding on this liner, which will give us access to a bolt underneath. Grab a panel removal tool and I'm gonna remove all four. Ours is missing one but that's all right, we've got three more to work with, you should have four there. Next, what you're gonna do is take the wheel well liner and you're gonna peel it back.Underneath that, you'll see that there is a 10-millimeter bolt holding the fender to the bumper. All right, for this next bolt we have this 10-millimeter right here. I'm gonna use my 10-millimeter socket to get this off. Next, we have a bolt that's pretty difficult to get to, it's where the fender meets the bumper upward a little bit more, parallel to the headlight. So, it's right about here facing toward the back of the vehicle, it's a nut on a stud. Now, you're never really gonna be able to see that on camera, it's so close up in here, but we're gonna use an extension and a swivel socket. To get in there, we're gonna drop it on and remove the 10-millimeter nut. Like I said, tough to see, but if you follow this line up, it's right about here. All right, so now I'm gonna use two extensions for this guy, and just feed a socket on a swivel joint to get up in there at the right angle. All right, I'm locked on right now, I'm just gonna get it all. All right, at this point, you can reach your hand in there and get the nut off the stud. All right, and there it is. Now you can repeat this exact same process in the wheel well on the other side.At this point, we got the vehicle up in the air completely to access the front splitter here and the belly pan. We have to remove all the bolts connecting these two together in order to drop our bumper. Now, there's typically a bunch of 7-millimeter screws holding on the front here along the front and the sides underneath of your fog lights. Now, ours have been replaced over the years, these are Phillips heads on ours, yours will probably be 7-millimeters. So, just grab the appropriate tool and we're gonna get these guys off. All right, so I have two 7-millimeters on the side here. Same thing on the other side. All right, so now if you go backward a little bit to the belly pan, we have a 10-millimeter bolt on our subframe. All right, now if you go directly next to it on the other side, there's another one to take off. If you look at this little indent in the middle here, there should be three holes with three black pushpin clips. Now, again, our Challenger has gone through some replacements over the years, these three guys are missing currently, but you should have three of those, grab your panel removal tool the same as we did under the hood, and get those three out and out of the way.All right, so next up, we have a couple of pushpin clips left, we have two here on the inside of the wheel well, we're gonna remove them on both sides. All right, I'll do the same thing on the other side. All right, next step, this is loose, so let's pull our belly pan off. All right, a couple of things to note here before we grab our bumper off. Make sure when you're pulling this off, you're being careful not to scratch the paint with the studs on the side. Also, you don't wanna go too far with it because we still have to disconnect our fog light harness. So, as soon as you get it off, you wanna set it gently down close to the vehicle so you're not pulling on the harness. So, from here, let's disconnect the sides, just like that. Same thing over here. All right, let's get it off. I'm going right down with it right here and now we can reach in and unplug our harnesses. All right, now on our passenger side, both fog lights feed into one master harness, which we're just gonna reach down here and disconnect.You can follow the fog lights down, find this connector and just disconnect. Now we can set our bumper safely aside, making sure we're not scratching the paint. All right, next up, we're gonna remove our headlights. Finally, we have three bolts, one at the top, two underneath there that were covered by the bumper originally. I'm gonna grab a T30 Torx bit and an extension and get these 3 bolts off. All right, with this last guy out of the way, just carefully pull your headlight out of place and disconnect the harnesses. So, I'm gonna lift up on the red locking tab, pinch, and disconnect on both sides. Set your stock headlight aside. All right, so we got our factory headlight off of the passenger side of our '13 RT behind me and it's on the table next to our new Halo projector headlight from Raxiom. We wanna go through some similarities and differences between the two. And as far as fitment and quality, this is gonna be all OEM. So, that's where the similarities lie. You'll see that this guy uses a polycarbonate lens, the same OE style molded housing, so it's impact-resistant, same as you'd expect from an OEM quality option, but the design, functionality, and appearance here on the inside is completely different.Your factory headlight is a reflector-style option, very traditional chrome reflector interior. Your new headlight from Raxiom is the projector-style housing which is as you can see very different than the reflector and it's got a black interior housing. Now, the black interior housing mixed with the clear lens gives you the impression of a smoked headlight, but it's not gonna impede any light output. This projector-style is gonna give you that pure white light you expect from DRLs, which are the daytime running lights, those are the accent halos that circle around the projector housing there. The projector itself uses dual H7 high and low beam bulbs already built into the housing. The only thing you have to transfer over is the parking light bulb or the amber bulb from the stock housing which really you're just gonna pull the bulb out and plug it into the new LED. So, you're not really using the bulb as much as the socket itself. Now, the design in here is obviously something that's a lot more modernized. You don't see the DRLs or the daytime running lights built into the factory housing but you do see it on a lot of the newer gen Challengers out there.This also has something built in that's pretty unique, not something you see in a lot of aftermarket headlights, sequential turn signals. Now, in this guy here closer to the inside of the grille, this section here has an amber ring on the inside of the white DRL. That amber ring is gonna work in conjunction with your turn signals, parking lights, and hazards. And when you flick your turn signals and hazards on, they will blink in sequence around that circle. Now I will say that sequential is extremely fast, but it is very unique compared to some of the other Challengers on the road, definitely the stock one. The last thing I wanna mention here is a pretty cool feature, specifically cool for Hellcat owners out there who have the Hellcat lower airbox, you can remove the center cap here. Now, that's just gonna be a matter of pushing from the inside out to remove this little cap. That cap is gonna allow airflow to go straight through this headlight, there's an opening here on the back, and it'll feed directly into the Hellcat lower airbox.Now, if you don't have the Hellcat, it may not be as functional as the Hellcats. But with non-Hellcat models, you can still get a little bit more airflow to the engine bay to cool things off a bit. So, just something to keep in mind there. It is removable. You can also just snap it right back in by pushing it straight through. Now, at this point, I just wanna transfer over the bulbs. We don't have a Hellcat model so I'm gonna be snapping this guy back into the headlight. I'll show you guys what that looks like and then we can move forward. First things first, I'm gonna snap in this cover. Now you can put it in one side at a time and then I recommend grabbing a flathead and carefully prying that little clip over the lip and pushing it in. Now we can transfer the bulbs over. All right, now we only need the parking light bulb. So, we're just gonna twist that out of the housing, it's the amber bulb there. Now, we don't actually need the bulb itself, we just need the socket. So, go to the base of the bulb and pull that bulb straight out. Our LED will plug into that.All right, so now we can grab that LED wire, plug it straight in. Now, when we go back to the vehicle, you wanna make sure that the black wire is on the same side as the black wire on our factory harness. We'll see that and verify once you're back in the vehicle. All right. Once you verify that, you can either twist this in now or back at the vehicle but I'm just gonna pop it in now. Bring this all the way back to the headlight, twist and lock it in. Now we can install. All right, we're gonna start our install off on our driver's side here. And just before we start plugging stuff in, I wanna show you guys that bulb transferred over. When you plug it into the factory harness, just like that since it's plug and play, you want this black wire and this black wire to be on the same side. If not, you can just pull this out and switch them, and then you can tuck this guy back into the housing. All right, grab the other one and plug it into the connector. Now, the back of your new headlights has two connectors, plug in the one that matches your style. We have two different, this is halogen and HID there. But they'll both work. Plug them in and now we can mount it.All right, line up that headlight, put the factory bolt back through, and tighten it down. Same thing underneath, put both of those bolts back through and tighten them down. All right, repeat on the other side. Next step we have our bumper placed up against the front of our vehicle. Remember you have to plug in that fog light harness, so that's step number one, down here on our passenger side. So, make sure that guy lines up, snap it in place. All right, so now we can lay our bumper back onto the vehicle. Keep in mind there are metal studs on both sides that you wanna aim for the factory mounting holes. Just make sure you don't scratch your paint on both sides when you do so. You can hook that back around the side, same thing on both sides and now we can bolt it down. All right, next up, now that we have the bumper in place, I like to take the 10-millimeter nuts that go in these corners here above the headlights to connect the bumper to the fender just so it holds itself in place. I think these are good connection points for that.So, what we're gonna do is just take that nut, insert it into my swivel socket. I'm gonna carefully feed that back onto the stud and tighten it down. All right, same thing on the other side. Now that we got the vehicle back up in the air, we're gonna focus on that bolt connecting the fender and the bumper here that's really difficult to see inside of the wheel well there. Grab your 10-millimeter nut, you're gonna feed it in by hand, and then tighten it down with your socket. Once you get it on the stud, you can try to feed it in a couple of threads, like I've got there. Now, I'm gonna grab my two extensions and my swivel, tighten it down. All right, so now we can put on that little mud flap-type trim using that 10-millimeter bolt. Make sure you're using the proper side, tighten it down with your 10-millimeter socket. All right, so now you can take those black pushpin clips and put them back in place using the wheel well liner. All right, and from there, you're just gonna repeat this on the other side.All right, next up, we're gonna put our belly pan in place and this can be a little bit difficult. You're gonna feed it in, in the corners, making sure that the side flaps go behind the wheel well liners, feed it into the middle here and make sure the other end goes in as well. All right, at this point, we can work on bolting it back up.All right, I'm gonna start with the screws at the front and work my way around. All right, so now I can put the 10-millimeter bolt back in each of its places.All right, so now we just have a couple of pushpin clips to put in on both sides in the wheel well, and then we'll wrap up underneath. Same thing on the other side. All right, now we can put her down. Next up, we're gonna put all six pushpin clips back into place under the hood. All right, now we can put the panels back on and we're good to go. So, this guy, we're gonna feed back onto the left and the right. All right, from here, shut your hood and you're good to go. That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Raxiom Halo Projector Headlights with the sequential turn signals and the black housing and clear lens, available for the '08 to '14 Challenger without factory HIDs. Get yours right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
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