(approx) 1 Hour
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today, we're taking a quick look at and installing the SR Performance Rear Shock, fitting all '94 to '04 Mustangs excluding the '99 to '01 Cobras. You should be checking this out for your own Mustang if you're in need of an ideal replacement for a blown out worn shock. Now the rear shocks on these New Edges are pushing two decades old at this point, so it's pretty understandable that sometimes they need replacement. If your factory shock is going bad, there's a couple of telltale signs such as excess squatting during braking. If you're getting a hard squat when you're stopping or if you're launching, also, if you hear your shock bottoming out, that's obviously a telltale sign. Now swapping it out for a factory shock isn't a bad idea but if you want something a little bit more aggressive, a little bit more sporty, the SR Performance one is the way to go and it's also extremely affordable. They're sold individually and they come in right around 50 bucks. It's a twin-tube gas-pressurized design that is a little bit stiffer than a factory shock replacement which makes it an ideal replacement upgrade.Really for just around 50 bucks, you're getting rid of that factory one but also replacing it with something that's gonna make your back end feel a little bit stiffer and a little bit more sporty. Now this one here is finished in gloss black which is pretty similar to the factory one, it's a little more glossy than the factory one and we'll take a closer look at what that looks like side by side in just a little bit. Note that this is non-adjustable, there are some aftermarket ones out there that'll allow you to adjust some of that dampening to make it softer or stiffer depending on preference. This one is a non-adjustable, keep that in mind which also helps to keep that price down at around 50 bucks. Now guys, keep in mind it's a good idea to pick both of them up, especially if you have a blown out shock because if one's going, the other one's probably not too far behind. You might want to take care of them both while you're at it, in which case, it would run you about a 100 bucks since they are sold separately. Now when you pick up one rear shock, it's also gonna come with all the new hardware needed to get the job done with the exception of this bolt down here, you'll reuse your factory one. It is gonna come with two new top bushings, two new top spacers, and a new nylon lock nut. It's important to mention that because a lot of times factory bushings can get worn out, start cracking or may even be borderline non-existent at this point in which case you'll need the replacement and all that's included in the kit, no need to pick it up separately. Install, I'm gonna give one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Anybody can tackle this in the driveway at home. All you're gonna need is a jack and jack stands or if you have access to a lift like we do, even better, and you're also gonna need a very simple socket set, very simple wrench set, an impact gun or a ratchet. I would recommend having a torque wrench on deck, maybe torque down that bottom shock bolt for that 70 75 foot-pounds, talk about that in a little bit as well. I'm gonna walk you through every step of the process, it'll take you about one hour from start to finish. What do you say we get started? Tools used in this install include air tools, 3/8 impact gun or a ratchet, 15, 16 and 18-millimeter deep sockets. I also recommend having a swivel socket on deck, 15-millimeter wrench, flathead screwdriver, and a panel removal tool. All right guys, step number one. We're gonna start with our Mustang on the ground for right now because the top of our shock is located in our trunk. Now to get to it, grab a panel removal tool. We have to take apart some of the panel trim inside of our trunk. So start here by the trunk latch. This little plastic piece has four Christmas tree clips holding it on. Grab a panel tool and basically what we're gonna do is pry these guys out. Just like this, pull straight out. Same thing for all four. All right, next up for this carpet trim which goes straight across both sides, on the top left and on the top right, there's one little plastic screw that holds onto a stud, grab a flathead, go right into the middle of it and you're gonna basically unscrew it. All right, do the same thing on the other side. All right, once that's taken care of, pull the liner out. Now this next step isn't completely necessary but just to show you guys a little bit easier, I'm gonna pull down...pull out our trunk liner from the bottom here or at least move it off to the side. I think that's a little bit better for you. From here, you can move that liner and expose the top of our shock. All right. While the vehicle is still on the ground, we're gonna take a 15-millimeter deep socket and we're gonna remove this top nut. That nut is attached to the spacer and under that is a bushing, so all that will come off. All right, so this all comes off together. Now this is your shock coming straight through, so now we can put the car in the air. As we do that, the shock will start to lower down but it's not gonna fall out, there's still a bolt on the bottom of it, that's what's next. So put the car in the air. All right, next up here we got to remove the bottom of our shock. Now you don't even have to bother taking the wheel off because it's so easily accessible, it's not really in the way. Gonna use an 18-millimeter deep socket for the nut, 15-millimeter wrench to hold the bolt head. I'm gonna use an air gun here to make life easier, if you don't have one, a ratchet with a little elbow grease will do, just want to break that nut free. Let's hold our shock, pull that bolt out. Now that we have the shock out, we could set it aside, install our new one. We got our factory shock off of our '99 GT sitting here next to our SR Performance. And visually, there isn't a whole lot different. They're both black. SR Performance is a little bit glossier of a black, this guy is 21 years old, so it's a little dirty looking, a little worse for wear. But so visually there's really not a whole lot to talk about, it's really the dampening inside. Now the SR Performance does make for a really great direct replacement especially if your factory one is blown out. It's a good upgrade, this is great for a daily driver. It's a little bit more stiff, it gives you a little bit more of a sporty feel at the rear end, a lot of guys are looking for that. So that's a good upgrade here. But again, visually, not a whole lot to look at. It's really what you're gonna feel, that's the difference. So now what you want to do with your shock is assemble the bushing and spacer. What you'll see in the kit are two spacers, two bushings and a nut. Take one of the spacers and you'll see it's a cup shape, there's a rounded side and a flat side. Flat side on this portion is gonna be facing up, so put that on first. And you're gonna take one of the bushings, slide that over. Now this is all you're gonna need when you're installing it from the bottom. It's gonna go up through the trunk and then from there inside the trunk, we'll put on a bushing and then another one of those cup spacers, flat side facing down. So it's kind of like a little sandwich. And then from there the nut will go on top. So for now, one spacer facing up, one bushing, we can start installing it from the bottom. All right, so now you can take your SR Performance shock. I'm gonna slide this up here and line it up with the bottom perch. Push it right in the middle. Take that factory bolt and you're gonna put it in with the bolt head facing your wheel. You also want to make sure the top of it is going through the hole in the trunk. All right, from there, gonna get this guy to line up a little. Might take a little bit of wiggling to get through. Once you get that bolt through, take the nut, we're gonna thread it on as much by hand, tighten this guy down. Once you have that taken care of, if you have a torque wrench handy, you want to torque that down to about 70, 75-foot pounds, so we've taken care of that. So what we're gonna do is lower our Mustang back onto the ground. You want to make sure that the top of the shock is still inside that hole going into the trunk. Make sure it's lined up properly. Once you start lowering it, the shock will line up, go straight through the hole and we'll finish the job from in the trunk. All right, so now we can take our bushing from the trunk. We're gonna insert that over that stud and cap it off with this spacer. Now this spacer, of course, is gonna be the opposite now. Want the flat portion up against that, curved portion facing up. Lastly, nylon lock nut included in the kit. Thread it on as much as you can by hand. All right, now you can take a 16-millimeter deep socket, tighten that down.All right, guys, since this is a single unit that doesn't come in a pair, normally I would say repeat for the other side. If you're replacing both shocks and you picked up the other side's shock, now is the time to install it before you put your trunk back together. We're only focusing on the one side of the day but let's put our trunk liner back on. All right, so first off is the side liner that goes over that wheel well. Seat that right back into place. Our bottom trunk liner lays right on top of that. Now we can do the long piece. All right, so now this guy can lay in there, line up those studs to the open holes on both sides. Grab that screw, the plastic screw, put it back on there. All right. Same thing on the other side. And then finally the plastic trim. All right, now if you remember, there's four of those Christmas tree clips, we're gonna put those in here. All right, with the last one in place, shut your trunk, you're good to go. Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the SR Performance Rear Shock available for the '94 to '04 Mustangs excluding the '99 to '01 Cobra models. Hopefully that install walkthrough helped you out. Can pick yours up right here at americanmuscle.com.
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SR Performance 390045
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(approx) 1 Hour
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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