(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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.Justin: At right around $140 the SR Performance Lowering Springs that we have here are gonna be the most affordable way to lower that 2005 to 2014 Mustang compared to your other spring options currently here at AM. Now in addition to being the most budget friendly set of springs they will also lower your car a total of one and a half inches on all four corners which is gonna give you a nice even drop or stance that still maintains a little bit of that factory nose down rake. Spring installs, listen, guys, they are pretty straightforward with the S197 but because they will require the use of specialty tools like a spring compressor the site is gonna kick this one up to a soft three out of three wrenches on the old difficulty meter. Maybe a few hours to complete from start to finish as we'll show you guys later in the video.But with all that said, let's dive right into some of the finer details of the SR Performance Lowering Springs. And first and foremost, that drop, right. The number one factor when purchasing lowering springs and you're gonna be looking at one and a half inches here on all four corners with these springs installed. Now if you've been shopping around a little bit you'll probably notice that's a drop a lot of manufacturers tend to go with for the S197 and there's a big reason for that. It's low enough to make a pretty dramatic impact in styling, eliminating that ugly factory wheel gap but at the same time, it's not gonna cause any rubbing, car isn't gonna be totally slammed to the ground and therefore scraping on every speed bump or low driveway in town. Now this is a great time to remind you guys to check out the numerous customer submitted images on the product page if you haven't done so already because it's a great way to get a feel for how your own car might sit once the springs have been installed and while you're there, feel free to read up on the numerous five star customer reviews.Now the SR Springs here do also feature a progressive spring rate which is another popular feature in the aftermarket spring category and that just simply means they're gonna progressively firm up the harder they are compressed. Now your specific initial rates here for the SR options include a 230 pound front spring along with a set of 200 pound rear springs which tends to be pretty much average in the category for a nonlinear spring in the aftermarket S197 options.Now I do get a lot of questions about installing the SR Springs or any spring for that matter on your factory dampers and what I will say is, guys, sure, if money is a little tight and your factory stuff isn't terribly beat then you can certainly do so. However, I will always tell you that upgrading to a different damper that is better designed to handle the lower ride height, firmer spring rate, things like that is only gonna result in a better experience overall including just better ride quality, performance and so on. So just something to keep in mind here, guys, when shopping aftermarket springs and that's something to consider if your budget will allow for it.But now we wanna show you just what it takes to get the SR Performance Lowering Springs installed on your S197 at home and to do so here's that detail walkthrough we promised you earlier along with a quick tool breakdown.Man: The tools used for this install are a half inch impact gun, a three-eighths impact gun, a quarter inch impact gun, an 18 millimeter socket, a 15 millimeter swiveling impact socket, a 13 millimeter socket, 10 millimeter socket, 21 millimeter ratcheting wrench, 10 millimeter box end wrench and a dead blow hammer.To get started on this install you're gonna wanna support your vehicle from the designated lift points and you're gonna wanna pull your front wheel off. Once you've got that going you can start removing your strut assembly. So the first step you're gonna wanna take after you remove your wheel is to pull your caliper and rotor assemblies off the car and get them out of the way so that you can get to work.All right, you're gonna need a 15 millimeter socket. I'm using a half inch air gun and a swivel socket but this can be done with a ratchet and socket set. With the caliper unbolted you can use just a regular bungee cord and hook it into your caliper and tie it off to the sub frame so that it stays out of your way and doesn't fall loose. Next I'm gonna use a 10 millimeter socket to unbolt the brake line retaining clip and then use a clip panel tool to remove the Christmas tree clip that hold the ABS and brake lines to the strut assembly. Using a clip tool I'm gonna remove the clip. Next I'm gonna use an 18 millimeter socket to remove the upper part of the sway bar end link from the strut assembly. And now using the same 18 millimeter socket I'm gonna remove the 2 lower strut bolts that hold the strut to the hub assembly. Final step to removing your strut assembly is going to be to remove the four nuts up at the top inside the engine bay and once you remove those, your strut assembly should come right out.Now that you've got the strut out of the car you're gonna have to swap over your spring and your top mount over to your new strut. This can be accomplished with a spring compressor. I'm using a wall mounted unit but you can also use a handheld unit or, if you're not comfortable with that, take it to a local shop and have them swap out your strut and spring assemblies to your new one. That is just about perfect right there.Now that you've got your spring compressed you wanna remove the top nut for the strut assembly. I'm using a 21 millimeter ratchet wrench and a 10 millimeter box end wrench to hold everything while I unscrew the nut. Now that we have the strut assembly taken apart we can decompress the spring and move the top mount over to our new spring and reassemble the strut. Now we're just gonna pop the top mount off of the spring and transfer it over to our new one. Make sure to line up the stop mark on the spring stop so that the spring doesn't move when you put it back in the vehicle.Now with our new spring installed on our strut we can put the whole assembly back into the vehicle in the reverse order of removal. And we'll throw the caliper back on.So because this is a solid rear axle vehicle we're gonna actually accomplish removing both springs at the same time by lowering down the rear differential. We're gonna do this by unbolting the sway bar from the body and we're also going to unbolt the lower shocks. Once we do that, we can lower our differential down, pull both springs out at the same time and put in our new ones. So I'm gonna use a 15 millimeter socket and impact gun to remove the sway bar end link from the body.With the links unbolted you can swing the sway bar down out of your way. Before I can unbolt the shocks I have to support my rear axle so that my springs don't unload while I try to unbolt everything.Once again, using a 15 millimeter socket I'm gonna unbolt the lower shock bolt from the diff. Now using the screw handle on the pole jack I can slowly lower down the rear differential which will unload the springs and allow me to remove them from the car. Make sure to retain the isolators on the stock diff. you're gonna need them for your new springs. With our old springs out of the car, we can throw our new ones in and put everything back together.With my new springs installed up into the pockets I can raise my rear differential back up, reconnect my sway bar and my shocks and this is completed.Once all four corners are wrapped up, you can throw your wheels back on, take your car to get an alignment and that's gonna wrap up this review and install for the SR Performance Lowering Springs on these '05 to '14 Mustangs. Thanks for watching and for all things Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
SR Performance 53151
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box
|Spring Rate:||Front: 230 lb/in.|
Rear: 200 lb/in.
|Year:||2005-2014||Model:||GT & V6 Coupes|
|Progressive or Standard:||Progressive||Estimated Drop:||1.5"F / 1.5" R|
10 More Questions
Will also fit 2011 and newer GT & V6 Coupes when used in combination with Ford Racing M-18183-C upper strut mounts and M-18000-A dampers (sold separately). Does not fit convertible models