Review & Install Video
Hey, guys. It's Joe from AmericanMuscle. And today, we're gonna be taking a closer look at the SR Performance Underdrive Pulleys, fitting all '05 to '10 GTs. This is gonna be a great option for the bolt-on three-valve owner out there that's at the end of their build list and they're looking to get every last bit of horsepower out of their 4.6.So what do we have going on here with the SR Performance underdrive pulleys? We'll over here we have a brand new crank pulley that is going to be smaller in diameter than the factory one and over here we have our new water pump pulley that's gonna be a little bit bigger in diameter than the factory one. In the middle here we have a brand new bolt for the crank pulley.Now in order for us to understand what these bad boys are gonna do for your Mustang, we have to understand basically how these work first and how these are going to improve off of factory. Now pulleys in general, they're there to power the accessories on your motor, that's gonna be stuff such as your water pump, your alternator, your AC condenser, and they're going to cost a small amount of horsepower in order to do so, otherwise known as parasitic drag. This is why you at least typically don't see AC on Formula 1 cars because it would cost a little bit of extra horsepower to run it.Now nobody wants to lose their AC just to gain 15 horsepower, that wouldn't make sense unless you're really, really in the track days. But with something like this, by downsizing our crank pulley a little bit and upping the size of our water pump pulley, we can lessen that parasitic drag by basically underdriving the accessories on our motor. This isn't going to be a huge horsepower gain, but like I said earlier if you have all the bolt-ons done in your three-valve, you're looking for something to do to net just to add that little bit extra, this is gonna be a great pickup. Definitely a great supporting mod end of the build type of stuff here but a great mod none the less.Now another huge benefit of these is they're also made out of a lightweight aluminum, so that's going to lessen a little bit of rotating mass and if you're doing any track days, that's exactly what you want. It's not gonna be a huge amount like an aluminum flywheel or lightweight driveshaft would give you but less rotating mass is always a good thing. This is gonna help your motor spin up to redline as fast as possible. Again, not a huge game but something that consider. These are also SFI-certified and there's no tune required n order to get the gains that something like this would give you.Pricing is gonna drop in right around 160 bucks and that's really not a bad price to pay when it comes to netting some free horsepower that was there to begin with, it's just reclaiming it back from those accessories. So this is definitely a good pick up again if you're at the end of your build. The install here, albeit, this is not your regular old cold air intake, something that easy, this is gonna be a little bit tougher than that, but not too bad, you could definitely accomplish this in a couple of hours in the driveway if you come with the right tools. I'm gonna give it a two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. I think you can get this done in about two to three hours if you take a look at this video and come with all the right knowledge. So without any further ado, let me show you what tools you'll need and then how it's done.Tools required for this install are going to include a breaker bar, cut-off wheel, die grinder, flathead, safety glasses, pulley removal tool, RTV, torque wrench, 18, 10 and 8-millimeter sockets, an impact and ratchets. So we're gonna start with some disassembly in our engine bay coolant reservoir, that's gonna have to get disconnected. Power steering reservoir, that's gonna have to go, also our intake tube here, that is going to be the easiest part that's going to have to go as well. To loosen that up the clamps are an 8-millimeter socket and we're gonna start right there.We're gonna start by disconnecting our breather hose and that is just gonna be this green tab on the bottom. If you push down and pull over on that, that will loosen up like so. Then we can come in with the old ratchet here and loosen up the clamp on our throttle body. Again, 8-millimeter socket. Over here by the airbox we have one more clamp, again, 8 millimeters. And then we can pull this whole thing off just like so.Next up our coolant reservoir, two 8-millimeter bolts to loosen that up. Hold onto those because you are gonna need them later obviously. Then we can just pull this up, remove that hose and put it over to your by the airbox. Power steering reservoir, that is another 8-millimeter bolt. And again hold onto that, then we can pull that up off of our fan and that can just kind of float there for now. I'm just gonna tuck it up by the airbox a little bit, try to hold that in place right there.Next up we have to get rid of this fan shroud and fan assembly but we have to disconnect it first, this plug right here, there's a release tab over on this side. However, if it's never been apart on your three-valve before can require the use of a screwdriver. There are two bolts that hold the fan on at the top, one on each side, again both 8 millimeters then you can pull the fan assembly out.Here we have a clear shot at our water pump pulley and while the belt is still installed, we're gonna use that to hold it still while we crank the four bolts loose. And these are 10 millimeters by the way. We're gonna loosen up our crank pulley while we're down here as well. This is an 18-millimeter socket. Now we can get rid of the belt and in order to do that, half-inch drive breaker bar and then off the top. With that out of the way, I'm just going to get rid of the rest of the 10s on our water pump pulley and that is uninstalled.Removing the crank pulley however is not as simple. You're gonna need to find one of these pulley remover tools whether you buy one from Harbor Freight, rent one from Pep Boys or AutoZone, pick one of these up because you are gonna need it to get this guy off, the tension is just too much. You could see the one we have here, it just has that lip that goes around this lip on the pulley and then we can use a socket to basically press against a bolt we have installed into our crankshaft and this pulley is going to come with us when we turn this socket. And obviously these arms here can be a little bit of a pain to set up, so I went ahead and did that off-camera. And I'm just gonna remove the bolt I used as a standoff and we can pull out our pulley.So now that we have everything off of our Mustang, now is the perfect time to stop down, put these two sets of pulleys on the table next to each other and highlight some key differences between these two. The biggest difference is going to be the sizing. Over here, you see our two crank pulleys, the stock one is gonna be bigger, the aftermarket one is gonna be a little bit smaller. Now these are going to be considered driving pulleys so our engine is spinning at the same speed. One rotation of this is going to spin more of the belt because it's bigger in diameter than one rotation of this which is going to be spinning the belt a smaller amount because it's smaller in diameter, less distance for the belt to go one rotation all the way around this thing. So the difference here, bigger is going to be faster, smaller is gonna be a little bit slower. And again that's there to reduce parasitic drag.Now weight is also a difference between these two, like I mentioned earlier, this is aluminum, this is cast iron. The weight difference is small. Like I said, it is rotating math, so every little bit of weight you can shave off is good. Next, we can and talk about our water pump pulleys and these are going to be a little bit different. The pulleys over here, our crank pulleys, these are driving the belt while our water pump pulleys, these are being driven by the belts. So these are gonna be similar to a supercharger. The smaller you go on these, the faster it is going to spin the water pump and same thing goes for all the other driven accessories. So this is our stock one over here, the bigger you go the slower this is going to spin. And if I go like this you can just see how much bigger that that aftermarket water pump pulley is gonna be. Same thing over here we have aluminum and this is going to be a drastic difference in terms of weight. The aluminum is a lot lighter than the factory stuff when it comes to the water pump pulley. So that pretty much sums up the differences between these two. There's one thing we have to take care of before we move on and install our new crank pulley and that is RTV. We're gonna have to apply a little bead of this into the keyway to make sure everything seals up correctly and no oil escape from that keyway.So now we can do our install. We're gonna start with the crank pulley, we're just gonna line up the keyway. That actually pushed right into place, a lot of times that will put up a little bit of a fight. That longer bolt in the kit is included so that if this does fight, you could throw a washer on there and use that to sort of pull this into this position and then you can install the factory bolt. Ours slid right on so we're just gonna install the factory bolt.We're gonna wait to torque down our crank pulley until the belt is on, hopefully that gives us a little bit of friction to fight against to tighten that down all the way. We want to make sure we hit our torque spec with that one. But with that said, we're gonna move on to our water pump pulley and while it looked easy coming off, going on is a little bit tougher. You can see the cut-off wheel in my hand here, reason being there's a stud in the way that's gonna have to go to make room for the larger water pump pulley. So we're gonna cut that off, clean up the stud a little bit, and then our water pump pulley should go right back on. Safety glasses for this one guys. This guy has got to go, just barely not enough clearance for our water pump pulley. That looks good, so we're gonna clean that up and install our pulley. So now we can put on our water pump pulley and we're just gonna secure that with the factory 10-millimeter bolts. Now that we have all of our pulleys applied, we're just gonna loop in our belt.So before we put our Mustang back together, we still have to torque down that crank bolt, there's a little bit of a process to that. First thing's first, you're gonna need a torque wrench because the first thing you're gonna need to do is torque that bolt to 66 foot-pounds. Now once you hit that 66, we're gonna lose in a full 360 degrees and then you can torque it to 37 foot-pounds and then you add another 90 degrees quarter turn just to make sure it's seated properly, you're gonna need an 18-millimeter socket to do so. So our first torque spec, that's gonna be 66 foot-pounds. Hopefully, these don't spin. Right on the edge of it spinning. Then we can come off the full turn. Then we can lower the torque wrench to 37 and then we're gonna give that one more quarter turn just to make sure that's tight and this is exactly how Ford recommends you tighten this down.Then we can start to rebuild by dropping back in our fan and we can secure that with the two 8-millimeter bolts, one in each corner. Don't forget to plug this back in as well. Now after that, we can secure our power steering tank to the fan shroud. Again, this is an 8-millimeter bolt. And we could do the same exact thing for our coolant reservoir as well.Last but certainly not least, we have to do our intake tube that's gonna go around the airbox and the throttle body. We can tighten down the clamps with an 8-millimeter socket but also we're gonna click in this breather hose as well. Guys, that is gonna do it for the SR Performance Underdrive Pulleys, fitting all '05 to '10 three-valve GTs. As always, thank you guys so much for watching. Subscribe for more like this one. 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