Hey, guys. Stephanie with americanmuscle.com here with a review of BMR's lower control arms with poly bushings for 2005 to 2014 Mustangs. BMR's rear lower control arms are going to be a good option for the S197 owners that are looking for a fixed lower control arm that isn't going to add a lot of harshness to the ride quality but that is going to help with traction and wheel hop issues. Traction and wheel hop are issues that the factory suspension allows for, and the more power and torque that your car's making, the worse the problem seems to get. Lower control arms are very beneficial for all Mustangs whether you keep your car on the street or whether it sees any kind of track or strip time. And generally speaking, the idea is the control arms will be an upgrade over the factory stamped steel arms and they're going to stop a lot of the flex that the stock components allow for. One of the main reasons why the stock setup has so many downfalls is because soft rubber bushings are used. The soft bushings allow for a more comfortable ride that's forgiving and it's an overall better experience for the average driver. However, these bushings leave a lot to be desired from a performance standpoint, especially when you start to consider things like handling and traction. But stiffer options are not always better. If you take all of the flexibility out of the suspension, you're going to end up with an extremely stiff ride quality that isn't really going to be fun for cars on the street. The smallest bumps can become uncomfortable, and then you also have to consider the shock that will then be transferred directly to the car and to the suspension. So, you really need to consider what you plan on doing with your Mustang and what's acceptable for your personal style. These BMR lower control arms have spiral fluted polyurethane bushings. So, they are a durometer bushing, and this bushing is used on both the chassis and the axle side. This type of bushing is a stiffer bushing for less deflection, which is a good thing in this case. Less deflection means less movement and flexibility, and therefore improved traction. But you also have to keep in mind the compound of the bushing that you're going to be using. Like I just mentioned, the more rigid the bushing, the more abrasive the ride quality will be. This particular bushing is made from a compound that's stiffer than the factory bushing, but it also helps to dampen MBH at the same time, so you're not looking at a severely uncomfortable ride quality. Your other option, instead of poly bushings like these here, is to go with spherical bearings, and BMR does have a set of fixed lowers that come with this setup if you think those are more in line with what you're looking for. The spherical bearings are going to have less deflection but the tradeoff is more MBH, so a harsher ride quality. The bearings can't absorb shock like bushings can, so the shock is then transferred directly to the suspension and chassis. These are a boxed steel design that's heavy duty and TIG welded for strength. These arms are going to be a lot more rigid and offer a lot more support than the factory stamped steel arm does, so they're a definite upgrade for sure. And they're powder coated, so not only are they going to look nice, but they also have some corrosion resistance, which is nice since they are a low hanging, under-car suspension part. When it comes to lower control arms, there are a lot of choices. You can go with a fixed setup, or an adjustable one, or even a double adjustable arm. One's not necessarily better than the other. It all depends on your setup and the specific reason for the control arm. Generally speaking, a fixed lower control arm isn't a bad option at all, where you're really going to want the adjustable arm is in the upper control arms. But adjustable lowers are good for lowered cars because you do have more room for adjustment there. But to retain the factory geometry with these fixed control arms, just make sure that the offset end of the arm is installed on the axle side with the offset portion of the axle side facing the rear diff. The other thing to keep in mind here is that these lower control arms will help performance wise with things like better traction, better hooking, and better handling, but they are only one component of a handful of other pieces that all work together. If you're really looking to improve things in the rear, there are a handful of other components you should look into as well, like an adjustable upper control arm setup, a Panhard bar, and relocation brackets just to name a few things. But these are still a good step towards eliminating the wheel hop and getting the rear more stable, allowing for harder launches, and keeping the suspension more consistent no matter what you're doing with your car. As far as price, these control arms are going to cost a little under $150. Fixed lower control arms range anywhere in price from $115 to $400, depending on brand and bushing setup, so you have a lot of options there. The spherical bearing offering from BMR that I mentioned earlier is going to cost more and they'll be about $200. So the install here is really pretty easy, and I'll give you a quick overview of the install so you can decide if this is something you'd like to try for yourself or not. You're going to need to get the rear of the car in the air and remove the rear wheels, of course. The brake cable does run through the control arm, so you'll have to detach that so you can remove your old control arms. One thing to note here is that poly bushings can get noisy if they're not properly greased. So you're going to want to make sure you really grease these before installing and after they're on the car. Once you grease the new control arm bushing, they're ready to install and you're going to want to make sure that the narrow end is forward for the geometry reason that I mentioned earlier. And just a side note, if you're using jack stands, torquing the arms down to spec might be a little difficult because it can be hard to get the amount of leverage that you need for 134 foot-pounds of torque. The process is the same for both sides of the car ,and overall, this is a one-wrench install on our scale here and should take about two hours to complete. Wrapping things up here, these lower control arms from BMR are a fixed control arm with a boxed scale construction and polyurethane bushings. These are stiffer bushings that are going to eliminate some deflection and provide better traction, faster launches, and less wheel hop. You can check these control arms out along with all your other options for the S197 Mustang right here at americanmuscle.com.
Improves Traction. You're going nowhere fast if you can't "hook up" off the line, that's why BMR Suspension designed these Mustang Rear Lower Control Arms to provide better traction, quicker launches, less wheel hop and as an added bonus improved 60ft times.
Polyurethane Bushings. These BMR control arms use greaseable 90 durometer spiral fluted polyurethane bushings on both the chassis and axle side. The result is great traction during straight-line acceleration and predictable grip during hard cornering.
Boxed Steel Construction. Made in the USA from TIG welded heavy duty boxed steel tubing for superior strength, BMR completes their Rear Lower Control Arms with a black hammer-tone powder coat finish for durability and good looks.
Application. This set of two BMR Suspension Rear Lower Control Arms with Polyurethane Bushings are designed as a direct bolt-on upgrade for 2005 to 2012 Mustangs, including the V6, GT, Bullitt, and 11-12 Shelby GT500 models.
Technical Note. To retain the factory geometry, ensure the offset end of the Lower Control Arm is installed on the axle side, with the offset portion of the bushing facing towards the rear differential.
Installed rear shocks,upper and lower control arms all at the same time. Car is much more solid when launching. No wheel hop and straight. A bit noisier and harsher ride than original equipment with 135k miles but a small trade off for better performance.
The BMR Rear Lower Control Arms are a Great Replacement over the original Lower Control Arms and are a Simple Mod. It took just a couple of hours to replace the lower control arms and the Installation Directions were simple to follow. BMR makes great Suspension parts that are Reasonably priced.
52008 GT -
stangsvt302Installation Time: Less than 1 Hour
Feels great...easy install
The bushings on my factory control arms were starting to squeak and I have heard that replacing just the bushings themselves can be a real pain. Found these BMR's and they were reasonably priced so I picked them up. Super easy install (make sure you do one side at a time), and I can definitely feel more traction to the ground.
Got these along with the BMR relocation brackets, set on the middle hole on otherwise stock suspension and absolutely 0 rear end squat on acceleration. Almost feels a bit to firm in the rear so I might move it up to the top one but with plans on dropping the car, might just leave it. Took maybe an hour and a half to install these along with the relocation brackets at my brother's shop.
Had squeak in rearend couldn't figure it out where it was coming from. After trying silicone spray on all the bushings finally went away but only temporary fix. Installed these squeaks gone no problem plus they can be greased. Extremely satisfied.
Besides price, what is the difference between these
Item 390560 MPN# TCA019R -- and -- Item 390561 MPN# TCA032R
Item 390560 MPN# TCA019R utlizes heavy duty TIG-welded 1.25 x 2" boxed steel tubing; Item 390561 MPN# TCA032R uses MIG-welded 1x2-inch boxed steel tubing.
The 1.25" x 2" will be more sturdier than the 1" x 2" and the TIG welding does take a little more time than MIG welding.
I want to upgrade my suspension but do not know where to start. I was thinking of purchasing these control arms but it looks like they're for launches at a drag strip. my car will be a street car, I just want to reduce the tail happiness the car gets when i stomp on the gas, and that horrible feeling when you hit a bump. What would you guys recommend, this is my first mustang.
The BMR Rear Lower Control Arms - Poly Bushings will be the first mod we would recommend when wanting to get rid of the wheel hop. These control arms will be for street and drag applications and will help greatly with reducing wheel hop.
so is this better then the tube models and how would they compare to them for daily driving especially on country roads.
The BMR Rear Lower Control Arms will not be as rigid as the tubular design of some other brands, however it has been found that since the 2005-2014 control arms do not carry the spring perch, this is a negligible difference for most applications. They poly bushings in the BMR Rear Lower Control Arms have proven to be great for daily drivers that see some spirited driving.
It really just comes down to needing to adjust the angle/geometry of the control arms once installed. Even if it doesn't become necessary, adjusting this geometry, especially when lowering your mustang, can allow for better support of that new suspension.
The BMR Rear Lower Control Arms can be installed in the stock location. The BMR Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets allow for adjustment of your control arm mounting to adjust for increasing anti squat for better traction on hard launches.
It would ultimately depend on what you are looking for out of your vehicles alignment. We would highly recommend making this adjustment when the vehicle is being aligned, so the alignment can be tailored for your specific application and driving habits.
I've had 8 stangs and have installed control arms on most of them. They were all lowered and I found the arms to do the trick for me. I just put relocation brackets on my 13 along with LCA's and they work well, but I still feel it probably wasn't needed.
Was told by mechanic who installed mine, (a Ford Guy) that you don't need relocation brackets unless you are lowering the suspension. I feel the 2007 I own is low enough so didn't go with Relo brackets and it runs great.
Relocation brackets aren't necessary when adding aftermarket LCAs. However, if you want to improve your overall geometry and get the most out of your LCAs, or if you plan on lowering at a later time, getting the brackets is a wise choice. I went with BMR's bracket kit. Their brackets give you multiple positions to place your control arms in, giving you a little more freedom.
No you don't it fits just like stock
From what I have read, you only need the relo brackets if your car is lowered.
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