(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Justin: The Ford Performance 6-bolt billet steel flywheel will be a great option from one of the most trusted names in Ford parts for the owners out there who want to go with a steel option, as opposed to something a little bit lighter like aluminum or chromoly. Now, this SFI certified made in the USA flywheel will fit the '96 to '98 GT in addition to the late 2001 to 2004 GT as well. Your price point for the billet steel option will be right around 250 bucks, and the install will get a full three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter from me with more detail to come later in the video. Now, the debate of steel versus aluminum or lighter weight materials is as old as time, but the basic idea is this, shedding weight from the rotational mass is always going to be great for performance and pulling through the revs a little bit quicker, however, it can make the car a little trickier to drive while on the street depending on how light you go. Now the billet steel option from Ford Performance, on the other hand, will be an upgrade over a cast iron stocker and will more than likely have a better clutch feel along with smoother engagement compared to those lighter options we just discussed, making the car a little bit more driver-friendly in stop and go traffic. Now, at the end of the day, again, both are going to be upgrades over your stocker and it really is up to you to decide on just how light you want to go. But let's talk a little bit more about the 6-bolt option we have here. And right off the bat, Ford Performance states that this billet steel flywheel will accommodate most 10-1/2-inch clutch options and some 11-inch clutch options as well. The flywheel, again, has been SFI certified making it legal for competition use and does feature the 164-tooth ring gear that you see right here. Again, since this is a billet steel option and not aluminum or chromoly, the weight will be a little bit higher. And that is the case here with the Ford Performance option as this guy is going to weigh in right around 29 pounds. But again, guys, it is important to keep in mind here, this is the 6-bolt version. Now, Ford Performance does offer an identical flywheel to this in an 8-bolt variant as well. But how do I know if I have a 6 or 8-bolt main? Well, a quick and easy way to find out is to check your VIN number. Now, the eighth character or letter in your VIN will actually tell you if you have a 6 or an 8-bolt crank. Now, if you have a W in this position, then you have a Romeo block, and therefore, a 6-bolt crank, meaning this flywheel will work for your setup. However, if there is an X in this eighth position of your VIN, then you have Windsor block, meaning you have an 8-bolt crank and this flywheel will not be for you. Now, another big thing to keep in mind is that the Ford Performance flywheel does not include any alignment dowels to align your pressure plate, which, if left uninstalled or unaddressed, can lead to noisy or inconsistent clutch operation. So with that being said, it's obviously a great idea to pick up the corresponding bolt and dowel kit also available from Ford Performance here on the site for around 20 bucks. Now, doing so will certainly save you the headache of having to run out for extra parts once the car has already been ripped apart. And speaking of tearing the car apart, let's get into the installation. And as you might imagine, guys, that trans does need to get dropped in addition to a few other parts in order to get the flywheel in place. And to give you a better idea of what to expect, here is a detailed walkthrough of the job along with a tool breakdown.Man: We're going to start off up top here at the battery. Since we're removing the starter, it's a great idea to disconnect your positive and negative battery cable. I've got an 8-millimeter socket on my ratchet here. All right. Next, we're going to remove the shifter. That's going to give us a little more clearance for when we're ready to drop the transmission out. First thing we're going to do is remove the shift ball followed by the plastic trim. Once we get that up, there's gonna be four bolts to remove the shifter. All right. Now, if we just pull up on our trim piece here, it should pop out. And we'll have to remove our 12-volt cigarette lighter wire right here. All right, we're gonna remove the heat shield right here. It's four 8-millimeter bolts. All right. Now, we can pull our heat shield out. And next, we're going to remove the four bolts that hold the shifter to the transmission. All right. I got a 13-millimeter socket on a quarter-inch drive ratchet. All right. Now, we're ready to pull our shifter out. All right, we got the car up in the air. We're going to start off by removing some of the exhaust. We can do the H-pipe first. There's four 15-millimeter nuts up on the exhaust manifolds that we need to remove first, followed by the oxygen sensor harness. We have our rear O2 sensors here that need to be removed. And last but not least, the rear H-pipe to muffler bolts. All right. Now we can disconnect the O2 sensor harness. It's going to be a little tough to see once I get my hands up in here. Basically, it sits on top of the transmission. If you can get one hand in there to release the tab... There's one. All right. We can now unclip our rear O2 sensors. And the last thing before we drop our H-pipe out is we're gonna disconnect the rear bolts here. They're a 14-millimeter. We're now ready to pull our stock H-pipe out. All right. Next thing we're going to do is remove our driveshaft. Now, it's good practice to mark your driveshaft with a Sharpie before you pull it just so when you go to put it back together, you can line your marks up and you know everything's going to be exactly the same as it was. And these bolts, we have four of them, they're a 12-millimeter. All right. Next up is the starter. First thing we're going to do is remove the two wires that are connected to the starter. Make sure you have your battery cables disconnected at this point. The small wire on here is under a 10-millimeter nut. All right. Next, there's three bolts that hold the starter in place. They are a 13-millimeter. All right. With a 10-millimeter socket, we can pull the clutch dust cover inspection box here. All right, I have a pry bar here. What I'm going to do is place it in between the clutch fork and the transmission. I'm gonna take some of the pressure off the clutch fork so I can release the clutch cable. And in order to get our clutch cable out of the transmission, we need to pull this little C-clip right here. Just take a pair of pliers and pull it out then we can pull our clutch cable right out of the transmission. The last thing we're going to do before we pull the transmission is disconnect all the wires that are attached to it. There's a transmission harness that comes down from the top here. There's a couple plugs that we need to pull. I'm gonna start back here. I'm gonna unplug this guy here and we'll put this harness aside and we can start to unbolt the transmission at this point. We got a pole jack in place here on the tail end of the trans. Next thing we're going to do is remove the trans crossmember. It's a 13-millimeter socket. There's four bolts, two on each side. It's going to allow us to drop the trans down a little bit to gain access to the upper bolts on the bell housing. All right. So, I realized that we need to remove this cross brace here. With this out, it's going to let us drop the trans a little bit more so we have more room up top to get to the upper bolts. For the two upper transmission bolts, I have a very long extension with a 13-millimeter universal socket on it. All right. We got the two upper transmission bolts out. I have brought in my transmission jack and I've strapped the transmission to the jack. If you guys don't have one of these, you can use a floor jack or a pole jack. We have three bolts left on this side of the trans and two bolts left on the right side of the trans. After that, we're ready to pull this thing right out of here. All right. We got all our transmission bolts out. Now we're ready to remove the transmission. I'm going to have a buddy help me lift this thing out of here. All right. Now, that we got the trans out, we can remove the stock clutch. I got a 13-millimeter socket, we're gonna go around and remove the six bolts that hold the clutch in place. All right. We're now ready to remove the stock flywheel. We got six bolts right here and they are a 17-millimeter. All right. We are now ready to install our flywheel. Take note that the bolt holes on the flywheel will only line up one way with the bolts holes on the crank. So, you might have to spin it a couple times to make sure you get the right orientation of bolt holes. All right. We're going to tighten our flywheel bolts down now in a star pattern. I'm going to get them close with my impact gun and then we're going to go over them with a torque wrench. Manufacturer's spec says 60 foot-pounds. All right. Now that we've got the flywheel in place, we're ready to start installing our clutch. First thing we're going to do is put the disc up in place. We have our alignment pin here that Exedy supplies us. Okay. Now, we're gonna put our pressure plate up in place. Once you've got your dowel pins lined up, you can start throwing some bolts in place. All right. We got all our bolts started. I'm going to go around and tighten them up now. I have a 13-millimeter on my impact gun. We have our transmission on the transmission jack and we're ready to throw the trans up back into place. We can get our wiring harness back in place now. Push pins back in the holes in the transmission and we'll plug this sensor back in, and this is gonna go over here, and we've got one more plug to plug back in right here. These are our O2 sensors. We'll hook them up when we get our exhaust back into place. All right. We're ready to bolt the transmission crossmember back up to the floor of the car. I'm going to raise my pole jack, get a couple of bolts started. We're now going to put our clutch cable back onto the clutch fork in the transmission. Put our retainer back on. All right, we're gonna need a pry bar to get the shift fork. Now, we can put our dust cover back in place. We're now going to put our starter back into place. All right. We're going to hook our starter wires up now. This is a 13-millimeter nut followed by this small wire which is a 10-millimeter nut. All right. Up next is the driveshaft, we will be putting this back into place. All right. You want to line your driveshaft up to the mark that we made when we uninstalled it and we'll get some bolts started. We are now ready to reinstall our H-pipe. We're gonna put it up in place, get a couple bolts on it, and we'll tighten it all down. All right. We can throw our K-member support brace back up in place now. All right. We can plug our rear O2 sensors back in now. All right. We're plugging our front O2 sensors in now. They're really hard to see. Make sure you listen for the click. We're now ready to reinstall our shifter. Before you put the shifter in though, make sure you take some Scotch-Brite or some very light sandpaper, clean the old silicone off the bottom of the shifter and off the top of the transmission. Get yourself some black RTV so you get a good seal and we'll reinstall our shifter. Now we can drop our shifter into place. All right. We can throw our sound deadening plate back in. And snap this guy back into place, put our shift knob back on. And last but not least, we're going to hook up our battery cables. That's gonna wrap up our review and install. Be sure to check out more at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 1996 1997 1998 2001 2002 2003 2004 Details
Ford Performance M-6375-F46A
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
late 2001-2010 GT
|Material:||Billet Steel||Bolt Pattern:||6 Bolt|
|Hardware Included:||None||SFI Certifited:||Yes|
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