(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today we're taking a quick look at and installing the K&N Series 63 Cold Air Intake, available for the '11 and newer 5.7-equipped Challenger without the shaker hood. You should be checking this out if you're looking to ditch the factory airbox and filter in favor for a cold air intake that's not only gonna help bring in more cold air, lowering intake temperatures, but it's one that's gonna give you a nice horsepower and torque bump, along with a throttle response and acceleration bump with a really high-quality filter.K&N's been making reputable filters for years and years now and this is some really high-quality stuff, made from a really nice, cotton gauze filter element. It's an oiled filter so it's washable and reusable which means it's a nice, convenient filter to use when it comes time for routine maintenance. Just pop it out, wash it, re-oil it, and throw it right back in. Now I'll compare that to the factory dry paper element filter, the drop-in filter, in just a little bit. But do know that this one is gonna help lower those intake temps and it's gonna filter out all the particles you don't want getting into your engine. The rest of the tubing there is made from a really high-quality plastic, it's a nice injection-molded plastic. It's gonna help with heat dissipation. It's reducing all the kinks that your factory tubing provided. The filter's gonna be enclosed in a billet aluminum heat shield and it's got weatherstripping around the top, this seal in under the hood to block out of some that engine bay heat.The Series 63 intake from K&N here is not CARB-certified, so it's not gonna be for the guys out there in emissions-restrictive states like California. There are other K&N options for you, but this one is not a CARB-certified option, just worth noting there. It is also one that does not require a tune. Now that's gonna be a huge bonus for guys just looking to open up the box, throw an intake under the hood and not have to worry about re-tuning their vehicle to make it work properly. Now because this one does not require a tune, we're not strapping it down to the dyno today. But K&N does provide their claims for dyno numbers. They strapped it down to their dyno and made about 12 horsepower and about 15-pound-feet of torque at the rear wheels. That's a pretty health pickup for a cold air intake that does not require a tune. So it does make the difference even without that reflash.The price tag for this one comes in right around $300 and the install gets one outta three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Anybody can tackle this in the driveway at home with about an hour's worth of time from start to finish, depending on your personal experience. Some guys can tackle it in a little bit less. Some may need a couple extra more minutes. Now, overall, it is something that does not require any permanent modifications. Cold air intakes are known to be one of the easiest possible things you can do under the hood of your Challenger, and really to vehicles in general. I'm gonna show you every step of that process, so what do you say we get started?All right, tools used in this install include an impact gun, a ratchet, extension, 8, 10, 13, and 16-millimeter deep sockets, 5/32 hex socket or an Allen key, a universal swivel socket, 16-milimeter wrench, and some snips.All right, step number one for the uninstall, of course, is pop off your engine cover. Now, of course, we're working with a 5.7. This may be a little bit different for the guys out there with a 6.1, but shouldn't vary too much. Just pop off that engine cover and just set it aside.Next up, we're gonna do our sensor right on the side of the tubing that connects to the throttle body. It's really just a pinch and disconnect. From there, you actually wanna remove the fitting for the sensor itself which you're just gonna twist and pull straight back on. This is extremely sensitive, so set this aside and just make sure it's out of the way of any danger.Next step here, grab an 8-millimeter socket or a flathead screwdriver and we're just gonna loosen up the clamp holding the intake tubing to the throttle body. From there you should be able to just twist it up, pull this back. Before we can remove this, we have one more bolt to remove as well as a hose. Then the whole thing will come off in one piece.All right, next step is the bolt holding the factory heat shield to the front support. That's also an 8-millimeter. Just loosen that up and take that out. From here, we're gonna disconnect the hose, the breather line on this end, just gonna wiggle it back and forth and pull it straight back. At this point we should be able to disconnect this from the throttle body and pull it all up in one piece. All right, this will pull straight up, pull out of the throttle body, can lift up on this end here, and we're just gonna set all this aside.Now this bracket was used to hold on that factory intake at the extension portion, so we're gonna just go ahead and remove it because we're not gonna need it for our aftermarket intake. So I'm gonna take a 16-millimeter socket and just remove this bolt. At this point, you can grab a 15-millimeter wrench to hold the inside bolt. Grab your 16 socket again and just pop off the nut on the outside. She can be a little rusty. This way the bracket's out of the way, but there isn't an open hole there. You can just thread the bolt back in there and tighten up that nut.So we got our factory intake off of our Challenger behind me and it's on the table next to our K&N Series 63. I wanna go through some similarities and differences between the two kits and I wanna start with the star player, the filter. Now, I took apart our factory intake to expose that drop-in, flat paper element dry filter. Now that's a very common filter type off the factory line. We see that with Dodge, Ford, basically all the manufacturers use this similar quality. Now that's gonna be pretty decent in filtering out all the particles you don't want getting into your engine, but it's not really optimizing airflow and bringing down intake temperatures. Bringing down intake temperatures is really what's gonna make a difference in terms of throttle response, acceleration, horsepower, and torque.Now the filter from the factory is somewhat reusable. Sometimes, depending on its quality and condition, you can pressurize air, wash the filter itself, and then reuse it. But not really recommended. You typically need to pick one up every time it comes time for routine maintenance. Switching over to an oiled filter in the aftermarket world, like the ones from K&N which have been making filters for decades, is something that's gonna be a huge upgrade in that department. Now this is gonna be a washable and reusable oiled filter using a multi-layer cotton gauze filter element that's gonna be a little more opened than that factory paper element filter. The opened cotton gauze filter media is gonna help allow a little more air to get through which is not only gonna help with air volume but it's also gonna help with bringing those intake temps down.Now the oiled filter does require a little more maintenance than a dry filter because you do, when it comes time for routine maintenance, have to pop if off, wash it, and re-oil it and then throw it back in. Whereas with a dry filter you pretty much use pressurized air just to clean it off and throw it back in. So oiled filters have a little more maintenance but they are a really good best-of-both-worlds option. You get a really good airflow and you get really, really good filtration capabilities in terms of particles. You can filter down into the smallest microns of a particle, so really high-quality stuff there.Now when it comes to oiled versus dry filters in the aftermarket world, I'd suggest dry filters for the guys located in areas that may be seeing a lot of air pollution, dry climate areas that might have to otherwise do a lot of maintenance on their oiled filter which would get clogged up more often. Dry filters are gonna be great for those instances. But altogether oiled filters are a really good best-of-both-worlds option.Now in terms of the rest of the kit, it's very different than your factory one. Your factory intake, of course, uses a closed airbox. And your new option from K&N isn't necessarily a closed airbox but it is gonna use weatherstripping at the top here to seal it in under the hood. So it's gonna seal in the cold air being pulled into the filter and seal out the engine bay heat. Now it's not as effective as a closed box, but it's pretty good to keep the cost down and also good with keeping out those heat elements. The factory tubing uses the flex tube which is a kink in the airflow, sort of a restriction. And it has the sound tube at the end here to deaden that sound. Your new tubing doesn't' have that at all. It's pretty much one straight tube, injection-molded plastic, so it's really high-quality plastic, good for heat dissipation. And it's gonna have the K&N logo right at the top there.Now because it's just one straight tube, it's got those sort of mandrel bends. I know that's for exhausts, but it's got smooth bends going through the whole thing so it's not kinked up and won't restrict airflow. It's also got new upgraded silicone couplers to help keep the air in and make sure it's sealed properly, and the velocity stack there as well to help attach your filter. Now we've got a couple of things we have to transfer over from the factory one, such as the, of course, intake air temperature sensor. So we'll swap that over first and then get to the assembly.All right, so now we're gonna take out our factory sensor and to do that you're basically just gonna twist it counterclockwise and pull it straight back. From there, we're gonna set our factory tubing aside. Now, looking at our K&N tubing, you wanna take the grommet included in the kit and you're gonna line that hole inside of your new tubing, just like that. So now you can take your factory sensor and insert it in there. Now it might be tricky, but you wanna make it so that the rubber grommet that we just installed doesn't actually fall in. You may need to lubricate the edges there to get it to slide in there. All right, so once you get that guy seated all the way in there, you wanna make sure the sensor is facing the appropriate direction.Next we'll install our couplers. Wanna place our coupler over our tubing. Make sure it seats in. Grab one of our clamps, we're gonna slide that guy over as well. Now you may need to loosen the clamp up in order to get it on. Seat that clamp down. Grab your 8-millimeter socket or your flathead screwdriver and tighten the clamp down. I can take the other clamp and I'm just gonna place it over the coupler without tightening it down just yet. We're gonna do the same thing on this side.All right, next up, we have to assemble this funky-looking retainer plate. This is basically gonna hold the system installed on the vehicle in place. So you wanna grab the hex screw included in the kit, drop that on the side. You're gonna put the bracket flat side through. The curve side will be at the other side. Gonna put a washer on the end of that stud and then follow it up with one of these nylon lock nuts. Now you're gonna hold that nut in place with your 10-millimeter socket and tighten it down with a 5/32 hex socket. All right, now you don't wanna tighten it down too much. You wanna be able to rotate it into position. And we can tighten it down fully later on.All right, so next up we have our filter top down on the table. Take this filter adapter and you're gonna slide it in. Now, usually, these threaded screws will get bolted down to your heat shield, but that's actually not the case with this one. This looks like a multi-use adapter. So for this particular instance you put the adapter in and then grab the large clamp here and tighten it down. So you just wanna make sure that the clamp is in the appropriate position to really clamp down that adapter.All right, for this next step we're under the hood and were' gonna take the swivel bracket. This is gonna attach to the heat shield, and it's actually gonna install to this little piece of frame right here. It's gonna go right on the top. Now, in order for this to work, you're gonna take one of the 10-millimeter bolts and of course a flat washer, you're gonna drop that through. On the other end, you wanna have the larger flat washer so it can cover the hole. And then follow that up with a nylon lock nut, just being careful not to drop it. All right, so once you have that threaded on a couple of threads, you can grab a 10-millimeter socket and if you have a small enough socket it can go right through this hole, along with a 10-milliemter socket or wrench for the nut side. All right, tighten it down. All right, now if you leave it a little loose you can have a little bit of room for adjustment.All right, now at this point, and you could have done this on the table but you can do this here as well, we're gonna install our weatherstripping here around the bottom edges so that when we flip it over it seals up against the bottom as well. So you're just basically gonna line this guy right around the edges. All right, now when you get to the end here you can grab wire cutters or something similar and just snip off the excess. All right, so at this point, you can just take that and drop it right down into place here. Now you may need to move AC lines out of the way, in which case you can just bend them in whichever direction you need to.Next up, we have to install this small L bracket which is gonna install right here so that it attaches to the factory 8-millimeter mounting point. Now if you want to, you can take this back out or you can just do it on the table, whatever you feel is necessary. But I'm basically just gonna put our bolt through, put our bracket through, and follow it up with a flat washer and a nut. Now you can tighten it down with your 10-millimeter sockets. It's a little tight so we're gonna back it up a little bit just so we can rotate it back upward. Now your factory 8-millimeter bolt can go right back through here. All right, now this bracket that we installed on the frame is gonna bolt to the side hole on the heat shield. So just put a bolt through and do the same thing we just did. Flat washer and nut goes on the outside. All right, grab your sockets and tighten them down. All right, that's gonna give it some stability.All right, now next up, because we don't have the factory tubing that comes all the way out here, we don't need this bracket here. So you can leave it in if you want but I recommend removing it because it's gonna be an eyesore under the hood that you'll no longer use. Now in order to do this a little bit easier I'm using an extension, a swivel socket, and my 16 socket right against that nut there. Now if you don't have that you may need a ratchet and maybe even a wrench to hold the nut on the other side. Once you have that off you can pull the bracket and you could either leave it like that or you can thread this nut all the way back on if you want to keep it. It's up to you.All right, so next up, we're gonna install this plate in the threaded hole on our block. Now if you're having trouble finding that it's to your throttle body to the right and the first hole down there. So put this plate up against that. You're gonna put your bolt and your flat washer through and the steel sleeve is gonna go on the other side. Put that on and thread it in place. All right, now you can grab your socket and just finish the job because you can get it all the way down by hand. All right, so now at this point we can get it to where we are gonna need it and tighten down that bolt. All right, I'm gonna leave a little bit of room for adjustment just so we can make adjustments into the tubing.All right, so now we can put our tubing in place. Keep in mind this has to wrap around the tubing right here, so you gotta feed this hose fitting through it. So we're gonna fit that guy right past it and it can be a little bit tricky at first. Just gonna have to maneuver it around, play a little Tetris. Once you get that through hook it up to your throttle body there, make sure this is in position, and make sure it's all the way through the heat shield. From there let's tighten down the throttle body first, then we can make sure this is tight, and then finally, our filter.All right, so grab your 8-millimeter socket or your flathead and tighten down the throttle body clamp. All right, so I'm just gonna go back down and tighten down this bracket again on our block. All right, so let's drop our filter in next and now we can connect to our tubing as well. Once you have that inserted, grab your extension which you're probably gonna need or your flathead and tighten down the clamp on the tubing. All right, let's tighten down that factory 8-millimeter bolt. I like to leave it loose up until now just to make any adjustments we need to the heat shield. But we look like we're in a good spot, so let's tighten this guy down. Now we can do the weatherstripping at the top of our heat shield. So I'm gonna start where that 8-millimeter bolt that we just tightened and wrap it around. Perfect. So now when we shut the hood it'll seal in.All right, so now we can pull of the rest of the factory breather hose. Just pull that off. Replace it with the new one included in the kit. Push that right onto the factory fitting and then this end is gonna plug right into the fitting molded onto the side of our tubing. Because it's pulling vacuum, you don't need any clamps or anything like that, it's just gonna keep itself on. It is really tight anyway. Next up, we can plug in our temperature sensor. Now if you need to, there is a temperature sensor harness extension in the kit. Some models may need that, ours just plugs right in and note it doesn't put any tension on the wiring, so we're good to go there. All right, last step there is our engine cover. So just pop that guy back on. All right, you're good to go.That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the K&N Series 63 Cold Air Intake, available for the '11 and newer Challenger with the 5.7 hemi without the shaker hood. At the end of the day, if you're looking to pick one up for yourself, you can do so right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Level Up. Level-up the performance of your 5.7L HEML Challenger with a K&N Series 63 AirCharger Cold Air Intake. This cold air intake features a free-flowing design that works with the included air filter to direct loads of cold air into your engine. This boost of cold air maximizes fuel combustion which in turn increases overall performance. This extra power ensures there’s no situation you couldn’t get out of, whether on the road or the track.
No Tune Required. K&N engineered their Series 63 AirCharger Cold Air Intake to improve the performance of your HEMI Challenger without the need of reprogramming your computer. By utilizing flow dynamics, this Intake will increase power using the original factory tune. Even though a re-tune is not required for operation, AmericanMuscle recommends a custom tune to reprogram the vehicles computer (ECU) to get the best possible performance from this Cold Air Intake.
High-Performance, Low Maintenance Oiled Air Filter. Ensuring your engine is protected from contaminants, the K&N Series 63 AirCharger Cold Air Intake includes a high-performance oiled air filter. This oiled air filter is designed to efficiently filter-out any contaminants while maintaining excellent air flow. Also, this filter will need servicing after 100,000 miles (depending on driving conditions) making it low maintenance. Moreover, this filter is easy to wash using mild soap and water.
Resilient Build Quality. The K&N Series 63 AirCharger Cold Air Intake’s inlet tube is made from resilient high-density polyethylene. This inlet tube undergoes an advanced roto-molding process to produce a turbulence-free structure, maximizing air flow. Moreover, this assembly comes with a heat shield that effectively protects the air filter from engine bay heat, helping extend its service life.
Simple Bolt-on Installation. K&N designed their Series 63 AirCharger Cold Air Intake kit to be a direct bolt-on replacement. With no special tools or extra modifications required installation can be completed in under an hour. All parts and detailed instructions are included.
Ten Year / Million-Mile Limited Warranty. The K&N Series 63 AirCharger Cold Air Intake is covered by an exclusive 10-Year/Million-Mile Limited Warranty against workmanship and material defects. Please visit the manufacturer’s website for more details.
Not CARB Certified. This Cold Air Intake is not CARB certified, therefore it is not legal for use in California or other states adopting California emission standards. Not legal for use on pollution controlled motor vehicles; not intended for highway use.
Application. This K&N Series 63 AirCharger Cold Air Intake is designed to fit 2011-2021 Dodge Challenger 5.7L HEMI models without a Shaker hood.
Fitment: 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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