(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Justin: If you're not a big fan of the factory headlights on your 2015 through '17 Mustang or 2018 and newer Shelby and would prefer to go with something that's gonna deliver a slightly more aftermarket or modified look, well then you might wanna consider the Raxiom options that we have here. Now, these headlights will pack the combination of the more modern angular tri-bar gills and projector along with the bold LED lighting running the length of the light itself all for right around the $600 price point. Installation on the other hand, at least according to the site here, we'll get in a middle of the road two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter and take at least a couple of hours or so to complete from start to finish as we'll show you guys later in the video.So, for those of you out there that know AM and you know Raxiom, you'll know this is the type of thing the company really excels at. They love making high-quality, unique aftermarket lighting for just about every generation Mustang out there. Now, these, in particular, are obviously gonna be for those newer Mustangs and namely again, the standard '15 through '17 cars along with your '18 and newer Shelbys, which as you may or may not know, do utilize the pre-facelift headlights, thanks to the carbon composite radiator support. Now, the Raxiom options that we have here will be a direct replacement on those cars equipped with factory HIDs. That is important point out and they will add some styling that is certainly gonna be a little bit more factory influenced in some areas and another area that is certainly gonna be a little bit more wild.But what do you say we start off with that factory influence first, and on the surface, guys, you'll notice the big physical difference here is gonna be with the projector itself, which utilizes a more rectangular housing as opposed to that of a circular housing with the factory headlights. Now, on top of that, you're also finding the more angular tri-bar LEDs or gills as they're sometimes called, and that's gonna be more reminiscent of the lighting found on the 2018 and newer GT or EcoBoost, but that's where the factory influenced stops. The next part is certainly gonna separate these lights from a lot of your aftermarket or obviously stock headlights on the road, and that will be the diffused LED lighting running the entire length of the bottom of the headlight here. And all of that will illuminate, by the way, the gills and the bottom LEDs with your parking lights or with the headlights whenever use switched them on. Now, all of this very bright, very unique LED lighting is gonna be found in the durable black ABS housings. And those guys are sealed tight thanks to the crystal clear polycarbonate lenses topping everything off.As you can see, the lights are obviously sold in sets of two and will feature a plug and play installation on all HID equipped cars using the factory style D3S bulbs. But now we wanna give you guys a slightly better idea of what's involved when it does come time to make the swap at home. And unfortunately, this is not like the old New Edge days where you just simply pull a couple of tabs and yank the entire headlight out. The S550 on the other hand takes a bit of work, including removal or at least lowering that front fascia to gain access to the bottom bolts here on the headlights themselves. But to show you how this is all done, here is that detailed walkthrough and brief tool breakdown.Man: Tools used for this install are an impact driver or ratchet, 13-millimeter socket, 10-millimeter socket, 8-millimeter socket, 7-millimeter socket, T20 Torx bit, clip and panel removal tool, a Phillips head screwdriver, and a small flathead screwdriver.So, for this install, we're gonna have to get the car up in the air a little bit, and we're gonna have to remove the front bumper. It's a pretty simple process. I'm gonna walk you through it. So, let's get started. I'm gonna start by using my clip tool to remove the clips that hold the upper rad cover on, and I'll just pull these out and pull the rad cover off. So, with my rad cover out of the way, I can take my 8-mil socket and remove the six 8-mil screws along the top of the bumper but don't forget the 7-mil screws hiding underneath the weatherstrip here, and I'm just gonna use a 7-mil socket to get those out. Now, I need to pull back my inner fender liner here up against the front bumper. There are four clips here on the inside of the wheel well. One of ours is missing, but just imagine that it's there. And there's two at the bottom that I'll have to remove and then I can pull my wheel well liner back far enough to gain access to the bolt that is behind the liner on the corner of the front bumper. I'm just gonna use my clip tool once again to pull the clips out and then I can pull the liner back.So, back here at the corner of this bumper, there is a plastic bracket that mounts the fender to the bumper, and there's a 7-millimeter screw that goes through the two and attaches the bumper into the fender. And what you're gonna have to do is take a 7-millimeter socket on your ratchet to remove it. Now, our bumper has been off so many times that that hardware is missing, but all you need is a 7-millimeter socket and ratchet and it'll come right out. Now, I'm just gonna repeat this exact same process on the other side of the vehicle and once again, remove the 7-millimeter screw here at the corner of the bumper. Now, you can pull your fender liner back once again and remove the 7-millimeter screw right here. With our fender liners pulled back and the corner of our bumper unbolted, now we can unhook our fog lights and turn signals as these are going to be coming off with the bumper when we remove it from the car. So, I'm just gonna unplug my connectors and pull them off the back of the lights, and then I'm just gonna do the same thing on the other side.So, next, I'm gonna use a combination of a clip removal tool and a 7-millimeter socket on my impact to remove the four screws and two clips on the bottom of the belly pan, but I'm gonna leave it attached to the front bumper so everything comes off in one piece. All right. Let's go with the screws first. So, now you're gonna wanna very carefully pop the corners of the front bumper out. Make sure not to damage these tabs as you will need them to reinstall the bumper. And with both of the corners popped off now, we can remove the front bumper. So, now that I have my bumper pulled off, I have access to all the hardware for the headlight. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket for the top and bottom 10-millimeter screws and a 13-millimeter socket for the outer screw. So, now I can remove my headlight and unplug the connector.Now, that I have the headlight out of the vehicle, I have it set up on the table here next to my new one, and there's some things I need to transfer over, including the HID ballast as well as the bulb that's located over here, I'm gonna use a T20 Torx bit and I'm gonna remove the four screws and unplug the ballast, and then I'll get to work on the bolt. Then I'm just gonna use my flathead screwdriver and undo the clips for the HID ballast. Now I have to remove this cover to gain access to that HID headlight bulb. Now, this cover does come off, but it's a little bit tight so you might need a little bit of pressure to get it to come off. Just unscrew it counterclockwise and it should go about a quarter of a turn and then you should be able to get it out. Now we are ready to plug in and install our HID ballast. There are two connectors on this one side of the headlight, you're just gonna plug these in and then orient the ballast properly because it only aligns one way with the four screw holes on the back. Install our T20 Torx screws. Next, I'm going to use my Phillips head screwdriver and remove the three screws that are retaining the HID bulb bracket into the headlight, and there's one up here at the top and two on the bottom. I'm gonna be very careful not to drop the screws into the headlight. Now, I'm ready to make the connection for my HID bulb, being very careful not to touch the bulb itself as I don't wanna get any oil from my fingers onto the bulb. I'll make the connection here and then I will align this notch with that little standoff here in the headlight housing and slide it into place, and then I can reinstall my bracket. Now, I'm ready to reinstall my headlight bulb cover and just twist that into place. Now, I can install my headlight into the car.Now, I can plug in my headlight connector and install my new headlight into place. And then I can reinstall all of my factory hardware. Now, I'm just gonna repeat the process for the other headlight. And just like I did before, I'm gonna use my flathead screwdriver to undo the clips for the HID ballast. And again, I'm gonna push down on the lock tab and very carefully use my flathead screwdriver to just push up on the connector, making sure not to bend or damage anything. And then I can undo the retaining clips and remove the bulb. And now I can plug the HID ballast into my new headlight assembly. Then I can reinstall my T20 Torx bit hardware. Now, once again, I can pull the headlight bulb cover off and remove the headlight bulb bracket. Now, I can plug in my HID bulb. And once again, I'm going to line up the notch with the tab on the housing. And then I can reinstall the bulb bracket. Once I have the headlight bulb installed, I can reinstall the headlight bulb cover and twist it into place. Now I'm ready to put it on the car.Now, I can reinstall the connector and slide the headlight into place. Now, I can reinstall my factory hardware. And now that both my headlights are installed onto the vehicle, I'm ready to throw my bumper and belly pan back into place and reinstall all my hardware. Now, I can get my corner lined up on the bracket, tap it into place, and reinstall the 7-millimeter screw that goes through here into the bumper. So, I have my bumper hanging loosely in place attached to the corners, and now I can plug everything back in behind the bumper. And then I can get my inner wheel well liner secured into place as well. Now, we can move on to the other side. Now that I'm underneath my car, I can reinstall all of the clips and screws that I removed earlier that hold the belly pan into place. And I'll just use my 7-millimeter socket again to reinstall the screws. So, now I'm ready to reinstall the eight screws at the top of the bumper, and then I can reinstall my rad shield. And the final piece to go back on will be our rad cover, and we'll reinstall the clips that hold it into place.And that's gonna wrap up this review and install of the Raxiom Projector Headlight fitting your 2015 to 2017 Mustang with factory HID bulbs. Thanks for watching. And for all things Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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