(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys, it's Joe from AmericanMuscle and today we're gonna be taking a closer look at the Rough Cut and Clamp H-Pipe fitting all '15 and newer GTs. Now, this is gonna be a great option for you if you're looking for a budget-friendly exhaust upgrade that's really gonna bring that muscle car rumble. So, as you guys just heard, we went and took this thing out for a spin, we did a couple revs and this thing really is going to add to the volume, three out of five on my wake the neighbor scale here. Definitely not gonna be busting any eardrums, definitely still daily drivable if you're going with just a mid-pipe like this one. However, if you wanted to back this up with a set of Roush axle backs, you're easily in cat-back territory there and I'm gonna give that setup a four out of five on the wake the neighbor scale. It's a good way to go about this, you get a few choices here, you can either go with lower volume H-pipe here and if you want to upgrade in the future, you could always do that with a set of axle backs.A mid-pipe like this one is gonna be a direct replacement for that factory resonator. We are gonna have to cut out that factory resonator. We're gonna show you how that works in just a second here but upgrading to a mid-pipe like this one is going to be a good move. I call that factory resonator the briefcase, simply put, it's gonna act like another muffler and nobody that owns a Coyote motor wants that and this is gonna be like I've been saying here a huge upgrade. This mid-pipe is made out of 304-grade stainless. Typically that is the highest grade stainless you'll see on exhaust. It's an upgrade from the factory stuff which is 409 stainless, that's gonna develop some surface rust, however, not with this 304-grade stainless. That's gonna be a consideration if you live in a wintry area that gets snow on the ground during the winter months, that comes with salt trucks on the road as well. And that is the bane of existence for any exhaust system out there. This 304-grade stainless steel should hold up really really nicely though. You might see a little bit of discoloration but this is going to last for years to come and it's gonna look good for years to come. On top of that, you do get a little bit of weight saving which is a nice touch. It's good to cut weight wherever you can, especially on a convertible model like this one. Overall, over the factory resonator, you save about 12 pounds and that is definitely easier than going to the gym for a couple months.There's not much going on in terms of design here. However, there are a few nice touches, this is going to be two straight pipes that run all the way down, you do have a crossover right here in the middle, obviously making it an H-pipe. There's a very slight bend in this pipe on the passenger side and that is going to be a mandrel bend. That's a nice touch in terms of building quality, that's gonna make sure that the exhaust flow is nice and smooth. Now, a huge benefit about a mid-pipe setup like this is it doesn't touch your catalytic converters. So, this is completely street legal in all 50 states. On top of that, if you have a convertible like we're working with today, we're gonna talk about that a little bit more in just a second here. There's some extra bracing under here and by going with just a mid-pipe like this one, you don't have to deal with any of that. So, this is gonna be a good upgrade if you can find a cat-back that's gonna fit around that convertible brace, some of them do, most of them do not. Another consideration here is if you have the active exhaust on your car, this is gonna be a good option because this is not going to interfere with that at all, the valve system is in the muffler. So, by going with a mid-pipe, this is going to give you a little bit more noise out of that active exhaust.Now, one thing I do wanna make a quick note on here, the differences between the H-pipe and the X-pipe. An H-pipe like this, it's gonna give you a little bit more of a deeper tone, sort of a muscle car rumble, X-pipe is gonna be full out raspiness. Now, that's not to say that's a bad thing. However, this gen three Coyote is already pretty raspy to begin with. It's just a choice between two tones. What do you like more, that sort of muscle car rumble or do you like that full-on race car raspiness?Now, let's talk a little bit about pricing and this is where things get even better for our Roush Cut and Clamp H-Pipe here, we're looking at about 250 bucks. Now, considering that an axle back system can cost you anywhere from 700 all the way up $1,000 and the full-on cat-back can cost you north of 1,500 bucks, this is gonna be a great budget-friendly way to upgrade your exhaust. Install for this isn't going to be too bad. We're gonna be dealing with a convertible today so there is a little bit of bracing we're gonna have to remove but that gives us a great opportunity to really highlight the differences between the convertible and the fastback underneath. We're gonna show you what that looks like in just a second here. On top of that there is just a tiny bit of cutting involved. We're going to do that once we get the factory exhaust system office car and onto the ground. I'm gonna give it a two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. At most I think this will take you about two, three hours to get done with a saw and nothing but some basic hand tools. So, without any further ado, let me show you what tools you'll need and how it's done.Tools we used for this install are going to include an impact, U-joint, 15 and 13-millimeter sockets, a ratchet, 6-inch extension, sharpie, safety glasses, tape measure, a saw and to deburr our cut we used a die grinder with the sanding pad.So, here we are under our '19 convertible. And if you've ever been under a fastback, this brace right here and these rails all the way down the side, it's gonna look a little bit new to you. Reason being is when you cut the roof of the car, you lose a lot of that structure. So, that needs to be made up in other ways. We got a heavy IRS system back here, we got a Coyote engine up at the front and otherwise all that would connect the two would be a floorboard. Now, reinforcement can come in the door sills, that's where it usually is. The S550 also has this brace right here. This is why convertibles are usually heavier. However, in our case for exhaust work, you can see our exhaust is on top of the brace. So, this has got to come out, luckily it's only bolted in though, there's 15 15-millimeter bolts, we're going to remove all those and it should fall right away.We're gonna leave that last one in for now, that's just gonna hold it up there. And this last one here is slotted so we're only gonna loosen that up and then we're gonna hit the other side. Now, we're gonna remove that bolt we left in at the rear earlier and then we're gonna remove this from the slotted bolts that we left in. Now we have a clear shot at the exhaust. We're gonna start the removal process, we're gonna start by loosening these two clamps up by the front. 15-millimeter socket to do so.Next we're gonna go all the way to the back, we're gonna unbolt these hangers from the car. I like doing it this way, I think the installation process is easier with these unbolted as you only have to clip this in all the way at the top to get this to sit exactly like this. If you don't, however, have a U-joint to get to these bolts you can just back this out of the hanger by loosening up the other hangers on the exhaust. We're gonna show you those in a second. And there's one more 13-millimeter bolt at the top. And then we're going to do the same thing over on the other side. Now that we have the hardware out we can go ahead and push up on those hangers and they'll unclip from the body. There's also two other hangers, they're bolted in with a 13-millimeter bolt as well. They also have that clip up at the top. Once we remove these bolts, we're just gonna push up again, remove those clips, and we can pull the whole exhaust out as one.So, now that we have our exhaust off of our Mustang, we can go ahead and mark and make our cut. One thing I do wanna note is you wanna flip this over and work from the underside of the exhaust. That is how Roush does their measurements. And that measurement is going to be five and a half inches from the rear of the resonator body. Right about there. Now, we're gonna go ahead and grab the Sawzall, metal blade, make a nice straight cut across our exhaust.So, now that we have our factory resonator cut off for our exhaust system, I figured now would be the perfect time to sit it down next to our new H-pipe, point out some key differences between these two. Basically what is gonna make this guy so much better than this one over here. First thing's first, let's talk exhaust gas restriction. This is basically one big suitcase like I said earlier, this is gonna hold up your exhaust gases, exactly what you don't want in an exhaust system. However, this is going to improve daily driving if you're just looking to get from point A to point B quietly, this is exactly what you want. However, if you're a Mustang owner like me, I got to hear that Coyote motor and this is where our new H-pipe is going to come into play. This is really gonna free up that exhaust restriction. Basically this is just two straight-through pipes with one crossover in the middle. Like I said earlier, this is going to give us a little bit of a muscle car rumble rather than an X-pipe that's gonna be a little bit more raspy. This is gonna be the same size as our exhaust as well, two and a half inches. Now, the last thing I wanna talk about is material. You can see our old resonator here, it's got a little bit of surface rust on there, it is magnetic and that leads me to believe that this is 409 stainless steel. Now, that is well and good, most factory exhaust systems are gonna be made out of that. However, what I do know for a fact our new H-pipe, this is 304 stainless. It's never gonna develop the surface rust you see over here on the resonator and might discolor a little bit with heat but it is definitely going to be structurally sound way longer than your Mustang is gonna last. So, a huge upgrade in sound, a huge upgrade in materials used and that is well and good in my book. So, now we're gonna head back over to our Mustang. We're gonna take this with us as well some of the clamps that come with it.So, here we are ready to drop this into our existing exhaust. Before we do, one thing I need to point out here is this is not symmetrical across sides. The passenger side is gonna have a little bit of a bend to it. So, you just wanna make sure this is oriented properly before getting it started in those clamps. Now, what we're gonna do after that is go ahead and slide on the clamps for the rest of our exhaust. Before we go ahead and put this exhaust up, you can see there a little bit of burring around the circle here. We're gonna go ahead and clean that up with the sanding pad on the die grinder. And then we're just gonna go get those pipes started and clip in the hangers to our Mustang. And same thing go over on the other side.For the next step here, we're gonna bolt back down all of our hangers using a 13-millimeter socket and the factory hardware. Now, we're just gonna tighten the rest of our clamps with a 15-millimeter socket. These ones on our H-pipe, we're just gonna turn those up toward the middle just to get a little bit more clearance. Last but certainly not least, we're gonna tighten down these factory clamps up at the front. Now, if you have a fastback, you can skip this step, we're gonna reinstall our convertible bracing.That is gonna do it for my review and install of the Roush Cut and Clamp H-Pipe fitting all '15 and newer GTs. As always guys, thank you guys so much for watching. Keep it right here at AmericanMuscle for all things Mustang.
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(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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