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SR Performance Sport Coil-Over Kit (94-04 Mustang, Excluding 99-04 Cobra)

Item 427731
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      Product Videos

      Jake: Jake here for AmericanMuscle. And today, I'm taking a look at the SR Performance Sport Coilover Kit fitting 1994 to 2004 Mustangs, excluding the '99 to '04 Cobras. If you're looking for an affordable and easy way to lower the stance of your Mustang and also improve the handling, then we've got your answer right here. This coilover kit from SR Performance allows you tons of adjustability with a pretty significant drop in ride height and improved handling to boot. So, if you want a lot of features without spending a lot of money, then this is going to be the setup for you.Now, we get to talk about one of my favorite things, suspension. And these coilovers pack a whole lot of features in here for the price. So, I want to just dive right in. Now, visually, these are going to be able to lower your car between 1 and 3 inches. So, it can provide you a pretty significant drop versus stock. Now, these are height adjustable as well both front and rear with these collars on the shocks and these spring perches in the rear. So, you don't have to go all the way down if you live in a place with bad roads like we've got here in the Northeast, or if you want to keep some ride height, you can do that. But if you want to slam it down to the ground, you can also just drop these all the way, and it's going to look pretty sweet when you do. But there's more to these than just the looks. You've actually got quite a lot going on here. You get a set of monotube shocks in the front and rear. And these have 36-way adjustable damping. So, right up here, we've got this little knob that can adjust it. So, you can really fine-tune how these ride and handle.So, if you're hitting the track, going to autocross, carving up your favorite mountain road, what have you, simply dial them all the way up, and you're ready to go. You've got them in their firmest setting. And then, if you're going to be taking a long road trip where you're driving back from the track, dial them all the way back down for a smoother ride. You can find somewhere in the middle for your typical Goldilocks setting too. And that's something that you don't typically see at this type of low price point. Now, of course, since these are coilovers, you get new springs as well, both front and rear. Now, these springs are upgraded versus your stock ones too, and they're going to help accommodate for that drop in height and also improve your handling, work better with these adjustable shocks. Now, stiffer springs and shocks tends to mean less body roll and less weight transfer. So, these are going to be a big improvement in the corners, especially.Now, springs have a higher rate than stock to accommodate for that firmer damping and, again, that lower overall stance. So, combine that with the shocks and that lower ride height, and this is going to make for a stiffer ride versus your stock setup. But again, you do get the adjustability here so you can soften up the ride a bit, so it's not going to end up being punishing for you. Something else that you don't see at this price point typically is the inclusion of adjustable camber plates up front. Now, these are going to allow you to correct that negative camera that comes with lowering a car. Since you're changing the suspension geometry by dropping things down, these are going to help correct that, get your wheels at the proper angle here, and it's going to make alignments easier. That also allows you the flexibility to dial in the way your car handles a bit more as well. So, if you want a little bit more negative camper for going to autocross or go into the track or something, you've got the ability to do that here. It's a really nice feature to see included at this price point.Now, construction here is pretty solid as well. The springs are finished in this nice white powder coat and the shocks feature a really nice black powder coat too, sort of a matte-type finish to get a little bit of texture to it. Makes everything look nice and it'll be durable for a long time to come too. Like I mentioned a few moments ago, you do get new spring perches in the rear as well and the adjusted tools for the collars and perches. Now, these don't have all the flashes, some of the more expensive coilovers, but I don't think you're gonna be disappointed considering that price. Speaking of which, I know I've alluded to it multiple times throughout this video already, but these are going to run you just about $700 for the entire setup as you see it here. So, that's front coils, rear shocks, rear springs, and perches as well. So, it's a pretty complete kit. And that is going to make them one of the least expensive choices on the market and absolutely the cheapest that does include those adjustable front camber plates.Now, while again, these aren't going to be the flashiest, they are still going to give your car a cool stance. It's going to result in greatly improved handling and some serious adjustability to boot because you've got a full set of adjustable shocks and adjustable spring perches plus those adjustable camber plates. If you hear me say adjustable one more time, you're probably going to turn this off, so I'm going to quit. But again, that makes them an excellent option in the market, and they're not going to blow out your budget either. Installation here might be considered the only downside as these are going to get a 3 out of 3 on our difficulty meter, and you can anticipate this taking you about four hours, possibly a little bit more to do, depending on your familiarity with the car and suspension work. Now, this kit does not require you to make any modifications to your Mustang. It's totally bolt-in solution. And since you don't have to mess with the spring compressor for the front or rear, this is a job you can accomplish at home, probably with the tools you've got on hand should you have the time. And to show you what's involved now, let's head over to the install bay.Man 1: For this install, you will need electric and air impacts, various ratchets, adapters, various extensions, swivel adapters, E8 Inverted Torx socket, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, and 24-millimeter sockets, 15, 18, and 21-millimeter wrenches, 19 and 15-millimeter ratcheting wrenches, a pry bar, channel locks, adjustable wrench, the supplied spanner, clip removal tool, 5-millimeter Allen wrench, a bungee cord, and also not shown here is a jack and jack stands or pole jacks. What's up, guys? Today, we're going to be installing a coilover kit on our Mustang, but before we get started, we're going to send you to watch a short video on how to uninstall your factory suspension, and we'll see you when you get back.Man 2: All right. So, moving on to the front, you can see that I have both of my wheels and tires off. I've already disconnected the sway bar end link on the driver's side. So, I'm gonna do the same on the passenger side here. Take 15-millimeter nut. So, let's get this nut off and this bushing as well. If that doesn't come off, it's fine. You can usually hit it up, hit the sway bar up and both those bushings will pop. All right. So, now, we're gonna remove our sway bar end links. Again, I have that 15-mil deep socket on my air ratchet, and then I have a 10-millimeter wrench on the shaft of the end link just to keep it from spinning, just start this nut, and pull that end link out of here. Remove that on both sides.All right. Now, we're going to remove our sway bar. You can see this is our mounting point with our bushing in there. These are 16-millimeter nuts. There are two on each side. And this plastic piece right here, we're actually gonna snake it through. So, I'm going to buzz these off, hoping that plastic is going to keep it up while I remove the other side. All right. Now, I'm going to snake this out of here. So, there are some pushpins that we can remove on the inside of here. Let me get my tool real quick. It's in a fender. All right. So, there's that pushpin. It's a Christmas tree-type clip. We are going to slide our sway bar out of the way.All right. So, what we're gonna do now is remove our caliper and rotor. First starting with our caliper, we're gonna take the whole unit off. So, we're after these two 15-millimeter bolts on the backside. Let's get a breaker bar on here first, make sure that we can loosen them up. All right. I'm gonna get my air ratchet in here. And just to get ready, I have my caliper hanger right there. I'll keep that where my body bolt is. Where is this guy? All right. And then, we're going to hang this caliper out of the way.All right. So, next up, we're gonna remove our rotor. If you haven't replaced your brakes or removed your rotor yet, you may still have these factory-locking washers. R99 only has about 40,000 miles on it. So, these are the original brakes, and we're going to remove these little metal washers, like the lock tabs that hold your rotor onto the hub itself. So, you don't need to replace these or put them back on. I'll show you a trick when I reinstall the wheel, how to get your rotor to stay in place. But I just bend it so it's a misshape and then just spin it off, and now we can pull our rotor off.All right. So, what we're gonna do next is remove our wheel speed sensor or our ABS sensor right here, and we need an E8 E-bit. So, it's like an Inverted Torx, and I have this on my 1/4-inch drive, so I'm just going to loosen this up and remove it because we gotta separate our spindle from our strut here in a second. We don't wanna cause any unnecessary stress on this wheel speed sensor because they aren't cheap. All right. So, that's out. All right. So, let's remove that wheel speed sensor. I'm just gonna push it in the front and pull it in the back as well at the same time because this has not been removed since new. There's a lot of road grime on that. All right. So, that's out. Then I'm gonna take my pushpin removal tool and get this loom out of the way, and then lift up on these, just get that out of the way. Again, this is a magnet, so you can just stick it to a body part, and it'll be out of the way.All right. So, our next step is to remove this one 24-millimeter nut holding this little brake line bracket in place. So, just spin this off. We are going to attach that again later. And then, we're going to lower the vehicle down to the ground so we can get a jack onto the lower control arm. And then, we're going to remove the two nut and bolts holding our strut assembly to our spindle. And what that will do is release the tension on that pocket spring. So, we can lower the jack, get that spring out, and get our strut out all at the same time. All right. So, as you can see, I have a jack directly under my lower control arm, the vehicle is pretty low to the ground, and what I'm going to do is now jack up on my jack and take up some of that tension on my pocket spring. Now, I can remove the nut and bolt on my lower strut assembly. I'm going to need a 21-millimeter socket for my bolt head on this side and then a 24-millimeter socket for my nut side. Let's go ahead and get our tools in place here.All right. There's the first nut. And let's get the second one out of here. Second nut, I'm gonna try to pull one of these bolts out. Alright, there's one, there's two. Then I'm going to let my spindle just hang out here. And you see my strut is free now. Now, I can lower my jack slowly and have this pocket spring come out. But first, I'm going to remove my strut so I have some more room to play with. All right. Now, we're going to remove our strut. We'll start off by removing these nuts. These are 15-millimeter. Now, I'm going to hold onto my strut, take out this last bolt. Make sure you grab that and remove your strut. All right. So, now, I'm going to release the tension on my jack and watch what happens to my pocket spring. It's gonna wanna fall out of there. So, I may need a pry bar to help get it out. That's what we're gonna do now. All right. So, there may still be a little bit of tension on this spring, so just be very careful and weary of that, and there it goes.Man 1: All righty, guys, welcome back. Now that we have our front suspension uninstalled, we can go ahead and begin installing our new coil kit. So, what we're going to do here is, first, you want to loosen up your lower lock ring for your perch mount here for your spindle. That'll allow you to move it and be able to get your spindle mounted as you want. Just makes things a lot easier if you do that. You do want to relatively have it in the height adjustment that you wanted beforehand. And as far as height adjustment, if you back this lock ring off and spin this right, it'll go up, lowering the vehicle, left it goes down, raising the vehicle. So, we've got ours pretty much generally set where we want it. So, we're going to feed this through here. We'll go ahead and get our upper mounting nuts on. This is a little bit tricky to see.Then we'll go ahead and grab our provided flange nuts. Go ahead, get these loosely installed on our studs here. Now that we've got those loosely installed, we'll go ahead and start mounting our bottom mounting points. So, now, we'll go ahead and get our spindle mount into our new coil kit here. We're gonna use our floor jack, go ahead and raise this up enough in the position. This kit also comes with spacers that go in between your spindle and your spindle mounting point here on your coil. So, we'll go ahead and get those in. So, this just slips right in between the spindle and the mount. We'll go ahead and get that into position first and get our top bolt through here, and we'll get it through the mount and the first spacer and then start it into the spindle before we move on.And once we have that in place, we'll go ahead and install our second spacer here. Now, these mounting holes are big enough that you can reach through so you can hold them in place. As we go ahead and get our hardware in, now that we have our first one through, we'll go ahead and get our second one started here. So, now, we've got our lower mounting bolt getting started back into position and we've got it through the mount and through our first spacer. So, we're going to move the spindle out and pull that through. Now, we can get it through our other spacer and out the other side of our mounting bracket. So, now, we can go ahead and get our factory nuts reinstalled onto our mounting studs here. We can get our bottom one on. We'll go ahead and tighten these down. Now, we'll go ahead and grab our 24-mil socket extension on our impact again and our 21-millimeter wrench. We'll go ahead and tighten these down.Now, we'll go ahead and reinstall our ABS sensor here, get that all the way seated. We'll go ahead and reuse that E8 Inverted Torx bolt, get this back in place. We'll take a little bit of fiddling with it to find the bolt hole again, and we'll tighten that back down again with our E8 socket and extension on our ratchet here. You just need to be nice and snug with that. You don't need to go crazy over tightening it. You can go ahead and get a bracket back into place here. Now, admittedly, because of how much bigger this perch mount is than your factory one, you're not gonna have as many threads for this nut, which we're reusing the factory retainer nut for this, but it should still grab. I can go ahead and snug that down with our 24-mil socket on our impact.So, now that we have this bolted in, we can go ahead and tighten down our locking nut for our bottom perch mount here. So, we'll grab our provided spanner, get that hooked in, go ahead and make sure that's nice and tight. Watch your fingers. These aren't going to slip. It's even a good idea after you get this all the way tight to give it a few smacks with a hammer. This is an extra torquing essentially. For demonstration purposes, we're not going to worry about that, but it's not a bad idea to do when you're doing this at home.Now that we've got that bolted up, we can go ahead and get our brakes back on. We'll throw our rotor back into place here. We can go ahead and get our bracket reinstalled. So, we'll get that one back up here, grab our factory 15-millimeter mounting bolts just right back into position here. So, we'll go ahead and get our upper bracket bolt in place. Just gonna have to move it around a little bit and get it to seat, go ahead and run that in, and we'll tighten those down, our 15-mil socket on our ratchet. Now, we'll go ahead and get our pads reinstalled, get these lined back up here. right up here. That goes back in. Same thing for the front pad, outer pad, put this back in place, then we can get our caliper back on, bungee cord out of the way, caliper mounted, then we'll go ahead and reinstall our 12-millimeter mounting bolts for our caliper, one reinstalled here, and we'll go ahead and tighten those back down with our 12-millimeter socket on our ratchet.Now, we can go ahead and get our sway bar reinstalled, fish this back up through here. Just be mindful of all of your lines. Don't damage anything going back in. Make sure your end links are over your steering tie rods, those in place here. Now, this will be a bit of a tight fit as we are lowering the vehicle so it will now be as much clearance between the lower control arms and the mounting points here. We're just gonna work this up into place. This is just gonna take some patience. Go ahead, work this in. These rear bolts are a little bit tricky, but they should go. Then we'll go ahead and do the same thing for the other mount. Now that we have everything lined up with our mounting studs, we'll go ahead and get our hardware back in place, get our sway bar bolted down.Now, one thing to be mindful of when you're reinstalling this is this line here. Your sway bar does go behind it, not in front of it, so it will take a little bit of movement. This has some flex, but try not to move it too much and break it. Once we bolt this in, it'll move away from this so there won't be any rubbing. Now we'll go ahead and reinstall our 16-millimeter mounting nuts for our sway bar itself, get these two on, and we'll get the two on the other side, and then we'll come back and tighten these all down. And we'll grab our 16-mil socket and extension on our impact and tighten these down. It may take a little persuasion to get this one. As you can see, once that's tight, you do have clearance here. Now, we'll tighten down the other side. Now, we'll go ahead and reinstall our lower end link bushing, put that up in there, followed by our factory 15-millimeter nut. It may have to kind of work this on a little bit. It is gonna be kinda tight with the change of angle here. That should go. Now, we'll do the same thing for the other side, and we'll tighten these down.So, now, we'll go ahead and grab our 15-mil socket on our impact and tighten these down. And then, we'll do the same thing for the other side. Now that we have our sway bar on, we can go ahead and reinstall our little splash panel here. We'll get that hooked around our sway bar. We can go ahead, reattach our plastic pushpins here. Admittedly, this is kind of tricky to get back into place, get our front clip in, then we'll go ahead and do the same thing for the other side. So, now, we can go ahead and grab our 14-mil socket on our impact and tighten down our upper mounting nuts here. So, now once you've got this all done for this side, you can go ahead and repeat these same steps for the other side. And you also want to refer to your manufacturer-specific Torx spec for all of your hardware you're tightening down. All right, guys. So, now that we have everything done in the front, we're going to send you to watch a short video on how to uninstall your rear suspension, and we'll see when you get back.Man 2: All right. So, we're gonna start off in the back, and we need access to our trunk, and we're gonna remove a few trim pieces in here, the sides to get access to the top of our shock. But right here on this trim piece, there are four pushpins. I have a pushpin removal tool. If you don't have one, you can use a flathead screwdriver. So, let's remove all four of these. Again, they're pushpins like a Christmas tree type. There's two on each side of that hinge plate Just lift that piece out of the way. And then on the back side of your trunk, you're gonna see two plastic screws. You can use a flathead. There is a little slot right there for it. We're just gonna spin it off with our finger. And these are just like plastic nut-type deal. Just like that. All right, now with those two nuts and four pushpins removed, we are going to get this panel out of the way, set it off to the side.So, we're also going to remove the two side panels that cover our shock towers in the rear. These will just slide out of the way, just off to the side there. And that will expose the nut for the top of our shock. Do that on both sides. All right. So, I have my air ratchet right here. It's a 3/8ths drive with a deep 15-millimeter socket. We are going to loosen up and remove the nuts on top of our shock. So, do that on both sides. And now, when we lift the vehicle in the air, those shocks will drop out. All right. Now, we're gonna go ahead and get our wheels and tires off. All right. So, one of our first steps in the uninstall process is to get this quad shock out of the way. So, if you have a GT or a convertible version, you will have this quad shock here. I have an 18-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna remove that nut and take the quad shock off of that stud, just pull it like that and let it sit. Do that on both sides.All right. So, since we had to remove the nut on the top of our shock, what we're after now is the bolt here. It's a 15-millimeter head and an 18-millimeter nut on the backside. So, I'm just gonna pull the bolt and then get the shock out of the way. Do that on both sides as well. All right. So, now, we're going to remove our rear sway bar. First, we're gonna get this wheel speed sensor out of the way and off of this bracket here. And then, we're going to use a 14-millimeter socket to remove the two bolts on this side and the two bolts on the other. And then, the sway bar will just slide out of the way. So, as you see on this bolt right here, you're gonna have a parking brake bracket. You're just gonna slide that out of the way. We'll reattach that when we put our new sway bar in. All right. Now, I'm gonna get the last two bolts out and slide this sway bar out of the way.All right. So, you can see that I have two pole jacks supporting the entire weight of my rear end. I'm going to get the last bolt that holds in my sway bar out of the way. And you can see these handles are facing straight back. So, hopefully, this sway bar will land on there. There is a little bit of weight, so if you have a friend to help you out, I highly recommend you grab them. I'm gonna give one hand to the bar and one hand to my impact and get this bolt out of here. There's that side. And I'm gonna pull this bolt, and there is our factory sway bar out of the way. So, minus your upper and lower control arms, those are the only things that are attaching your rear axle to the body of the Mustang. So, now, I'm going to lower my jack stands evenly, both at the same time, and then I'm going to lower one side a little lower than the other so I can angle it and get that spring out of there. So, as you can see, there's no tension on that, but there is on this. And if I pull on this side of the axle, I can get that spring out. So, I'm gonna lower it down even more to get some more travel out of it, just like that, and now I can get my spring outta there.Man 1: All righty, guys, welcome back. Now that we've shown you how to uninstall your factory rear suspension, we can go ahead and start installing our new kit. Now, you'll notice I have the vehicle lowered down here, and we're going to use the floor jack to control moving our differential up and down to trap our spring and get our shock installed. This is just going to be a little bit more easy, especially if you're doing this at home by yourself, accessing the top of the rear shock in the back of the car. It's going to be a little bit troublesome if you're on a lift. So, this is kind of just a little bit simpler way to do it. So, we've got our floor jack underneath our differential. We've got our other side supported as well. Now, we're going to go ahead and start by swapping over our top bushing for our spring from our factory one. It just pops out of your factory spring. We're just going to pop it right into our new one here. And after we have that, we can go ahead and grab our lower perch here, and we're going to go ahead and set the bottom of our spring on it and it does have a rubber bushing in the bottom as well.So, now that we have this put together, we'll go ahead and get it set into its perch. Now, as you can see, we've got a ways to go before it gets trapped by the upper and lower perches. So, go ahead and set that there. We'll use our floor jack to bring our differential up just enough to hold our spring in place until we can get our shock mounted and everything will kind of be captured that way. So, we'll go ahead and start bringing this up with our floor jack. And if it falls out, it's okay. I'll just throw it right back in. I'm just gonna get it close for now, got it moved up here, and go ahead and get it in position. As you can see, that's almost there. We just need to go a little bit higher, but we wanna be behind our body line here. We'll go ahead and wait till that stops moving. Got one more pump, and we'll push it into place here. And now, that's pretty much captured by the upper and lower perch. If we need to adjust it a little bit after we get our shock in, we still have room to do so.And so, now that we have that done, we can go ahead and start getting our shock mounted. So, now we've got our shock here, and we've got our lower bushing and sleeve for the top mount, we've got our spacers in, make sure they're snug at our bottom mount, go ahead and feed this right over our quad shock here. Get it down into position, and you want to feed the top up through into its top mounting point, and then we'll get our bottom mount in position. We're going to reuse our factory mounting bolt here. Go ahead and get that in place. And we can go ahead and loosely reinstall our mounting nut. Okay? Now, we can go into the trunk, make sure our top mounting point is in position. We'll raise it up some and get our top mounting nut in place, and that'll capture everything so we can start reassembling the rest of our differential.So, now we've got it up through here, we can go ahead and install our top bushing, followed by our top washer, then we can go ahead and install our top mounting nut, and we'll go ahead and get this tightened down. All right. So, now, we'll go ahead and get our top mounting nut tightened down using our 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench and a 5-millimeter Allen wrench to hold our top mounting stud in place. A little bit tricky to get it in there first. Make sure your wrench is going the right way. So, once you've got this process complete to this step on this side, you can go ahead and repeat these steps on the other side, then we can go ahead and reassemble our trunk liner, get the car back up in the air, and button everything else down.So, we'll go ahead and re-insert our trunk liner pieces. Now, again, ours is kind of broken from many previous installs and years of being worked on. We'll just go ahead and slide our insert panel in here. This can be a little bit tricky to get in at first. Once you get them in, you can go ahead and line up your hand screws, make sure it's seated. And if you took out your hinge panel, you would go ahead and get your hand screws back into place along your side and rear panel here and do that for the other side as well, and then go ahead and reattach your hinge panel with the four pushpins previously shown.So, now we've got the car back in the air, we can go ahead and start by tightening down our bottom shock mount. So, we'll grab our 15-mil socket on our impact and our 18-mil wrench, go ahead and tighten this down. And we can go ahead and get our quad shocks back into place and get this back over the stud. This sleeve does tend to come out sometimes, but once you get it in, you can usually go ahead and just push it back into place. Once we have that back in, we'll go ahead and reinstall our 18-millimeter nut. We'll tighten that back down. We'll grab our 18-mil socket on our impact, tighten that back up. And once you have this done for this side, you can go ahead and repeat these same steps for the other side, and we can go ahead and get our sway bar in.So, now, we'll go ahead and get our sway bar in place, and we're gonna start by just lining up our forward bolts here, go ahead and get these started. We've got this one started, we'll go ahead and get the other one started, and then we can come up and get our rear bolts in position. So, now, we'll go ahead and get our ABS line bracket back into place. Just be mindful of your wire. We're gonna get our bolt into here first just to hold our bracket into place, then we'll push our sway bar up into position, and get our bolt started here. Now that that's supporting it, we'll go ahead and do the same thing for the other side, and we'll get these tightened down. Now, we'll go ahead and grab our 13-mil socket and extension on our impact and get these tightened down. Again, be mindful of your wires so it's not being pinched. Now that we've got those two tightened down, we'll go ahead and reattach our ABS line grommet to its bracket, slip that right back into position, and we'll go ahead and do the same thing for the other side.All righty, guys. That about wraps up our review and install of our SR Performance Sport Coilover Kit for your '94-'04 Mustang, excluding the '99-'04 Cobra. Thanks for watching. And as always, for everything Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Track-Grade Coil Over Kit
      • Estimated Drop of 1 to 3 Inches
      • High-Flow Monotube Design
      • Better Handling Performance
      • Fine Tuning and Adjustment
      • Features 36-Way Adjustable Damping
      • Bolt-On Mounting
      • No Cutting or Welding Needed
      • Professional Installation Recommended
      • Fits 1994-2004 Mustang, Excluding 1999-2004 Cobra Models

      Description

      Better Track Handling. The SR Performance Sport Coil-Over Kit is a game-changer for car enthusiasts looking to improve their Mustang's handling performance. This coil-over kit is the perfect choice for both track and autocross enthusiasts, providing an unmatched level of control and handling precision.

      High Performance Dampening. Featuring a mono tube coil-over design, this kit is specifically engineered to provide superior handling and performance in extreme driving conditions. With an adjustable ride height, you can customize your vehicle's stance to your liking, and the 36-way adjustable damping allows you to fine-tune your suspension to your exact specifications.

      Installation. For the safety of your hardware during removal and replacement, professional installation is recommended.

      Application. The SR Performance Sport Coil-Over Kit fits 1994-2004 Mustang, Excluding 1999-2004 Cobra models.

      Fitment:

      Details

      SR Performance 427731

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Shock Assemblies
      • (4) Front Spindle Spacers
      • (2) Rear Shocks
      • (2) Rear Springs
      • (2) Rear Lower Spring Mount Assembly
      • (2) Lock Collar Wrenches
      4.3

      Customer Reviews (37)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Mustang

        • Bullitt - 01
        • Cobra - 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 01, 03, 04
        • Cobra R - 95, 00
        • GT - 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 00, 01, 02, 03, 04
        • Mach 1 - 03, 04
        • V6 - 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 00, 01, 02, 03, 04