(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Justin: At right around 150 bucks, the SR Performance lowering springs that we have here are gonna be one of your most affordable ways to lower that '79 to '04 GT, Mach1, and solid rear axle Cobra when compared to some of your other options here on the site. Now, in addition to being very budget-friendly, these particular springs will lower your car a total of one and a half inches on all four corners which in turn will help eliminate that factory wheel gap and make for a nice even stance all around. Now, spring installs themselves are pretty straightforward but because of the age of these particular cars and the amount of work involved, the site is automatically gonna nudge this one up to a soft three and of three wrenches on the old difficulty meter. And if you hang with me for a little bit, guys, we'll show you more on that install later in the video.Let's talk about some of the finer details here with the SR Performance lowering springs. And first and foremost, guys, that drop. Right? One and a half inches on all four corners which isn't a massive drop on this particular car, but if you've noticed, it's a drop a lot of manufacturers tend to go within. There's a reason for that. It's low enough to make a pretty noticeable impact on your styling, helping to again, eliminate that factory wheel gap but at the same time, the car isn't gonna be slammed or crazy low and therefore, scraping on every speed bump or driveway in town. So, we know that drop will obviously help improve your appearance but lowering springs such as this will also help improve some different areas of your Mustang's performance such as reducing body roll when turning hard, brake dive or excessive squatting under acceleration. Part of this can be attributed to the slightly firmer spring rates of the SR springs compared to your factory springs.Now, specifically, guys, you're gonna be looking at a 525-pound front spring here along with 250-pound rear springs respectively, but with a slightly softer initial spring rate. And I say that because the SR Performance lowering springs here are in fact or do in fact feature a progressive spring rate. And basically what that means is that the spring progressively firms up the harder they are pushed. This is a very common feature or attribute you're gonna find on most aftermarket springs in the category with the exception of some of your more hardcore performance oriented springs because you're getting the best of both worlds with a progressive rate. Essentially, you're getting a softer initial spring rate which in turn will make things a bit more comfortable for daily drivers out there. But when you start really pushing the car hard in turns, for instance, you're gonna get some of the performance or handling benefits of that firmer spring rate.Now, if I can make one suggestion here when checking out these or any aftermarket spring for that matter is that you check out a new set of spring isolators for both the front and rear, especially if they've never been replaced. Now, the factory isolators on these cars tend to dry rot and disintegrate over time which basically means you're talking metal on metal contact and that's where you start getting the squeaks, the noises, and all the other bad stuff that comes along with that. Now, the aftermarket isolators on the other hand are made out of very durable polyurethane. They're gonna cost you right around 50 bucks or so for both front and rear. So, it's not a massive investment which, in my opinion, is definitely money well spent, especially when we're talking about these older Fox bodies or SN95s.Another area to consider when upgrading your springs on your older ride is upgrading your factory shocks. Now, yes. I know this is certainly going to add a significant cost but if you're still riding on your 20 to 30-year-old dampers, well, upgrading is really gonna be a great call because not only will you be seeing a better ride quality but improved handling as well with the springs in place. Ultimately, this will be up to you guys because again, budget concerns, it is gonna cost you a little bit more. But if you haven't done so, I suggest you strongly consider it when making the switch to an aftermarket spring.All right. But enough about all that. What do you say we talk install here, guys? And listen if you've done springs before on a Fox body or SN95, you know what you're getting yourself into. If not, well then keep in mind, guys, this is a little bit more involved than say an S197. So, the site is gonna kick this one up to a soft three to three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Maybe a few hours of your time to get everything knocked out. It's not exactly brain surgery but again, you are dealing with an older chassis which might have some rust. So, just make sure you have some PB B'last, some heat, whatever on hand before getting started. Now, to give you a better idea of how your job might go in the garage or driveway, here is a detailed walkthrough as promised earlier in addition to a quick tool breakdown.Man: The tools used for this install are: a half-inch impact gun, a 3/8 impact gun, a 3/8 ratchet, an 18-millimeter wrench, a 24-millimeter socket, a 15-millimeter socket, and a pry bar.So, the first step of this install is gonna be to get the front end of your vehicle up off the ground and pull the front wheels. This will give you the access to remove your caliper and your rotor. Once you do that, then you can start disassembling the rest of the front suspension to get your front spring out. Next, I'm gonna unhook the sway bar end link and then I'm gonna put some support underneath the lower control arm while I disconnect the shock. Now, I put a floor jack underneath my lower control arm to support my spring while I disconnect my shock assembly here at the front. This is gonna keep the spring from unloading uncontrollably while you're unbolting the strut assembly from the knuckle. Now, I'm gonna use a little bit of leverage to get underneath the coil spring, push down on the lower control arm and remove the spring.With the springs out of the car, I can take the isolators off and transfer them over to my new lowering spring. With our isolators swapped over to our new lowering spring, we can install it into the vehicle. Now, you can throw your sway bar link back together and reinstall the nut. And then you can start bolting up your hub assembly to your strut. Now, that I have my lower control arm raised up and my hub attached to the strut, I can start putting my brakes back together and wrap up this side. Now, just re-secure your ABS line and you're all finished on this side. And now you can just repeat this process on the other side.To get started here in the rear of the vehicle, I have the car up in the air and I have the rear differential supported on jack stands or pole jacks. Next, what I'm gonna do is disconnect the shocks and the quad shocks to lower the rear differential down far enough to get the springs to come out of the car. Finally, I'm gonna unbolt my upper quad shock and then lower my rear differential down to get my springs out. Now, I'm just gonna use a pry bar to pull back on my spring and get it out of the vehicle.Now, I need to transfer over the upper isolators onto my new springs. In order to do so, I'm gonna take the isolator, I'm gonna line up the old existing shadow mark from the old spring, place it on top of the new spring and then I'm gonna use a little bit of electrical tape to hold it in place while I install it to the vehicle. Now that I have the rear springs installed and the isolators position the way I need them to be, I can use my pole jacks to raise my differential back up to make all my connections for my shock and my quad shock. Now you can tighten up all your bolts, put the car back on the ground, should be good to go.And that's gonna wrap up this review and install for the SR Performance Progressive Lowering Springs for your '79 to '04 Mustang. Thanks for watching. And for all things Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
SR Performance 53150
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box
|Front: 525 lb/in
Rear: 250 lb/in
|1979-2004 GT, V6, Mach 1, 1993-1998 SVT Cobra
|Progressive or Standard:
1.5"F / 1.5" R
10 More Questions
Does not fit 1999-2004 SVT Cobra's with Independent Rear Suspension (IRS)