(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Justin: If you plan on drag racing your 2018 and newer manual GT on a sticky tire, well, then upgrading your driveshaft to the DSS 3.50-inch aluminum option here will be a great way to ensure your day doesn't get cut short due to snapping the stocker. Now, on top of being stronger, this one-piece aluminum option will save you a couple of pounds of rotational mass as well, for right around the mid to high $800 price point. Installation won't be too bad, but since all of your work is done underneath the car, exhaust does need to get dropped, figure a solid two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, maybe a few hours to complete from start to finish, as we'll demonstrate later in the video.So, this is one of those parts that really isn't terribly necessary for most casual six-speed owners out there, as that stock two-piece driveshaft will serve its purpose just fine even when you start pouring on some power. However, this is one of two key driveline components, the other being half-shafts, that should be considered when you start seriously preparing to drag race your manual third-gen Coyote, and launching hard with a sticky tire.The reality is, traction is the destroyer of a lot of these components, and typically, you'll see those half shafts be the first weak link once you dump that clutch and hook up on a sticky radial or bias ply. The second part that's likely to go will be your stock driveshaft, of course. So, therefore, I would certainly recommend doing some half shafts in addition to the driveshaft if you're really gonna go full send at the drag strip. But getting to the actual driveshaft that we're talking about here today, and you're gonna find this is one of two different options currently available from The Driveshaft Shop for the manual cars, the other being the more expensive carbon fiber option.Now, both driveshafts are advertised to support over 1,000 horsepower, and both will carry the same one year warranty. However, carbon fiber option will have a little bit more torsional give before finally letting go. Now, one of the things DSS is most excited about with their 2018 and newer manual driveshaft is the fact that it now features what's called a direct fit rear CV, which is gonna operate very much like the stocker, and basically does not require the use of any additional adapter plates, which can sometimes be a little problematic. On top of that, eliminating that additional adapter plate will also save some weight, while getting rid of that failure point. Materials, again, will be T6 aluminum for a majority of your construction here, along with those billet end caps.Now, the rear CV we just talked about also features chromoly internals, and a Spicer 1350 U-joint. Spline plugs will be extremely solid, thanks to the 300M material, and DSS is gonna top everything off with their forged aluminum U-joint flange. And then, of course, there's the weight savings aspect with something like this, right? Typically, that two-piece factory driveshaft, gonna weigh in around 24, 25 pounds, give or take, but this option is gonna come in on average around 17, 18 pounds. So you're saving, depending on your option, six to seven pounds here of rotational mass, which is really gonna help the car rev quicker, and just require less effort from the engine to turn. So basically, any time you can shed some rotational mass, whether it be through lighter wheels, lighter flywheel, or driveshaft, it's usually a very good thing.But now, as promised, we do wanna segue into the installation, and honestly, guys, it's not really a difficult job. But because the car does need to get elevated, and you do need to take that exhaust off to gain some more access to the driveshaft, site's automatically just gonna kick this one up to a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Call it a couple of hours or so to complete from start to finish. But now, to give you a better idea of how it will all go down, here's that detailed walkthrough and quick tool breakdown.Man: Tools used for this install are a cordless impact gun, a power or manual ratchet, a 16-millimeter wrench, a 19-millimeter wrench, a small extension, an 18-millimeter socket, 15-millimeter socket, 13-millimeter socket, 10-millimeter Allen, 8-millimeter Allen, a torque wrench, a pry bar, a small dead blow hammer, and a bottle of blue Loctite.So the first step of this install is gonna be to get your car up in the air, either on a lift or securely on jack stands, but either way, you're gonna need to get the car off the ground. And before we can get the driveshaft out of the car, we're gonna have to remove the exhaust, so I'm gonna walk you through that first. So let's get started.So the first thing I'm gonna do is unbolt my rear hangers. Now, some people like to leave these in and just slide the rods out of the hangers. I like to unbolt them. It just makes it a little bit easier. So I'm gonna use a 13-millimeter socket, and I'm gonna unbolt the two from the frame. Next, I'm gonna remove the two 13-millimeter headed bolts here at the rear subframe, but I'm gonna leave the hangers attached for now until I undo the sleeve clamps up at the front. Now I'm just gonna loosen up these two sleeve clamps here. I'm gonna slide the clamps back. That'll allow the exhaust pipe to drop down, and with the help of a friend, I'm gonna remove the entire exhaust system in one piece. I'm using a 15-millimeter socket to remove these nuts.All right. So I'm ready to drop the entire exhaust system in one piece. Basically, what I'm gonna do is I have all of the weight hanging on these two hangers here, and they're just hooked in now that I've unbolted them. So I'm just gonna lift them up, slide it back, and the whole thing is gonna come out. So now I'm gonna unbolt the driveshaft from the transmission. There is a three-bolt flange here on the back of the trans that I have to remove the three bolts for. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket on an extension with an impact gun to get those out.So now I'm gonna move on to the back of the vehicle. I'm gonna unbolt the driveshaft from the differential. There are six 10-millimeter headed bolts. I'm just gonna use a 10-millimeter socket on an impact to remove them. Now, finally, what I'm gonna have to do is unbolt the carrier bearing from the vehicle to get the driveshaft out. I've got it supported here in the middle so that it can't sag on me, so that I can control how it comes out of the vehicle. All right, so I'm just using a 13-millimeter socket on an extension and an impact gun. All right. Now we can start wiggling everything out of place. Move my support.All right. So before we can install the driveshaft into the vehicle, we need to remove the pre-installed flange for the adapter on the back of the transmission. They have two yellow indicator marks. This is for balance. So when we do install the driveshaft into the car, we're gonna make sure that we line up these indication marks so that we don't have any pulsation issues. The adapter flange is held to the driveshaft with these four bolts. They are 16-millimeter head. So just use a 16-mil wrench to unbolt it and install it onto the vehicle. All right. So now we're ready to install the adapter flange onto the back of the transmission. There's a large recessed cutout on the back of the adapter plate that you're gonna wanna make sure is facing out. And you're gonna also wanna apply a small dab of blue Loctite to the threads of your bolts before you install them. All right, now I'm just gonna use a 10-millimeter Allen socket, and I'm going to snug these bolts down and then torque them to 70 foot-pounds.All right. So now I can torque my bolts down to 70 foot-pounds using my torque wrench here, but I also need to use a small pry bar on the back of the flange on the part of the bolt that's sticking out of the back, and just wedging the pry bar into place to keep the transmission from spinning while I try to torque the bolts down. So the three bolts that you just installed in the flange for the driveshaft are actually extending out past the back of the flange for the transmission. That's on purpose. They provide you with a lock washer and a nut that needs to be installed on the back for extra security. You're gonna need a 19-millimeter wrench to tighten down that nut, and you'll hold the bolt tight with the 10-millimeter Allen that you used in the previous step. All right. Now that all three of those bolts are tight, we can install our driveshaft.All right. So because I'm now dealing with a solid one-piece driveshaft, I no longer have the flexibility to install the driveshaft with the CV at the rear and the universal joint at the front. I need to make a little bit more room to get everything into place. So what I'm gonna do is remove this intermediate pipe off the back of the cat on the driver's side, and I'm also going to support and remove the transmission crossmember, to give me the room I need to get the solid one-piece driveshaft into place. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket for the intermediate pipe, and I'm gonna use a 15 and an 18-millimeter for the transmission crossmember. Now that I have all that out of my way, I can install my driveshaft.All right. So I'm just gonna install the back end flange first, and get that seated properly so that I have enough wiggle room up at the front to get the universal joint into place. Make sure to apply a small dab of blue Loctite to your bolt thread before you install. Now that I have the back end supported with a couple of bolts, I can line up the paint marks that I previously mentioned on the front flange, and slide things into place and install my bolts. Once again, make sure you install a small dab of blue Loctite onto each bolt thread before you install it. And I'm just gonna use a 16-millimeter wrench to get the bolts going, so that I can get all four of them in and get all my rear flange bolts going, and then I can tighten everything down.Now that you've got all those bolts started and snugged in place, go back, tighten them down to 70 foot-pounds, just like you did for the adapter flange bolts. And now you can move on to the rear flanges, and we're gonna tighten them to 57 foot-pounds. So now that we have all six bolts for the rear flange started and snugged into place, you can tighten them down to 57 foot-pounds. At this point, it's not gonna be a bad idea to either have the e-brake pulled or a buddy in the car with his foot on the brake, so the driveshaft can't spin while you torque them down. Now we're ready to throw our exhaust and our transmission crossmember back into place. Now we can throw our transmission crossmember back into place, getting all our bolts started by hand, and then we'll tighten them up with a 15 and 18-millimeter socket. Now that transmission crossmember is in place, we can throw our exhaust back in there.So now, with the help of a friend, you can reinstall your exhaust system, bolt down your hangers, and tighten up your couplers. And that's gonna wrap this one up. Now I'm just gonna use my 15-millimeter socket to tighten up the couplers, and a 13-millimeter socket to bolt down all of my hangers. Now I'm just gonna reinstall my factory hardware and tighten down my hangers.And that's gonna wrap up this review and install of the Driveshaft Shop 3.50-inch One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft, fitting your 2018 to 2020 Mustang GT with manual transmission. Thanks for watching, and for all things Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Outstanding Strength. Take on any race track with confidence by upgrading the driveshaft of your Ford Mustang GT with the Driveshaft Shop 3.5 in. Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft. This driveshaft is for drivers who need something with outstanding strength. This driveshaft uses a construction standard that has been proven on 1,000-plus-horsepower performance vehicles for at least a decade now, thus ensuring that it will not break with the most extreme driving conditions.
Superior Quality and Construction. This driveshaft comes with a 300M stub system mounted into a billet aluminum plate to combine strength with lightweight application. The shaft itself is crafted with 12.9-grade steel with backup lock nuts to ensure no loose bolts.
12-Month Manufacturer’s Warranty. The Driveshaft Shop guarantees that this product will not have any material or workmanship defects for a period of 12 months after the date of purchase. Some exclusions may apply; please see manufacturer’s warranty for details.
Tech Note. Emergency brake cable bracket clearance or relocation may be necessary. Failure to check this clearance may damage the driveshaft and void the warranty.
Application. The Driveshaft Shop 3.5 in. Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft is specifically designed to fit 2018-2020 Ford Mustang GT Models with the 6-speed manual transmission.
Fitment: 2018 2019 2020 Details
The Driveshaft Shop FDSH53-A
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
10 More Questions
Emergency brake cable bracket clearance/ relocation may be necessary. Failure to check this clearance may damage the driveshaft and void the warranty.