(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Justin: The SR Performance Alternator that we have here would be a great upgrade for the 2005 to 2008 GT owners who might be looking to replace a faulty or failing stocker and don't really need the extra amperage of the other more expensive options currently on the site. Now, with that in mind, the 6G series alternator will produce 100 amps at idle and with a max of 200 amps and will be a 100% brand new piece.This is not a rebuild or remanufactured part like some others in the market. Price point is going to be right around 270, 280 bucks, and the installation will get a middle of the road two-out-of-three wrenches on the difficulty meter with a little bit more detail to come later in the video. So, if you own a 3-valve GT and you've recently received that dreaded check charging system light on your dash, or maybe you've noticed your headlights and accessories dimming more than usual, chances are it's time to start looking into some sort of replacement.Now, the SR option that we have here, again, is designed to be more of an affordable factor replacement, as opposed to some massive amperage upgrade like options from PA Performance for instance. Now, frankly, if you don't plan on running a massive sound system in your ride, the SR option is going to be just fine I would say for most owners. Now, however, if you do plan on throwing a few amps and subs in the back of your 3-valve, then you might want to consider something with a little bit more amperage here on the site. Power output aside, this is a 6G series case.So, again, it will be a direct replacement for the factory alternator in your '05 to '08 GT, and we'll even reuse the factory size belt, thanks to the included pulley. Now, I do want to point out quickly that this will require the use of the additional upgraded power cable setup, which you can find here on the site for a few bucks more. Last but not the least, guys, this is, again, 100% brand new. This is not some remanufactured, clapped-out stocker, which can be the case for a lot of your cheaper parts store replacement. Not the case here at the SR option, again, 100% brand new from the case down to the internal components.But now, it comes a time in the video where we want to show you what it takes to swap alternators on your 3-valve GT at home. And honestly, this one isn't going to be too bad, thanks to the location of the factory alternator in these cars. But to give you a better idea of how things are going to go down, here's our detailed walkthrough and a quick tool breakdown.Man: Tools used for this install are clip removal tool, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, 1/4-inch drive ratchet, a short extension, 13-millimeter socket, 10-millimeter socket, and an 8-millimeter socket. So, the first step of this install is going to be to pop the hood open on your vehicle and disconnecting the negative battery terminal so you can make sure that your electrical system is de-energized before you unhook your alternator. I'm gonna use an 8-millimeter socket on my ratchet and unhook the negative and then we can get started. The next thing I need to do is remove my intake tube.So, I'm going to disconnect this PCV line here on the passenger side intake, move that out of my way. And then I'll take my 8-millimeter socket again and loosen up the two clamps for the intake pipe, one on the throttle body, and one just behind the intake. And then I can pull these loose and move that out of my way. So, now that I have my intake tube taken out of the way, I'm going to remove my throttle body so that I have enough room to remove my alternator with the bracket installed. So, I'm going to disconnect the two electrical connections on either side, and then I'll remove the two 8-millimeter bolts at the top and the two 10-millimeter nuts at the bottom.Next, I'm going to take my clip tool and remove the Christmas tree retaining clip that holds the wire harness to the bracket. And then I'm going to take a 10-millimeter socket and remove the two outer bolts on the brackets on either side of the water jackets for the alternator. Now, I can use my 13-millimeter socket and remove the two nuts from the lower studs on the bottom of the alternator. With my alternator fully unbolted, I can pull the alternator assembly out with the bracket still attached, and I'm gonna have to disconnect the wire harnesses on the back of it.If you pull the boot back, you'll see there's a 10-millimeter nut, and this is why we disconnected the negative battery terminal. This thing is charged. We wanna make sure that we loosen this up with our 10-mil, pull the eyelet off, and then we can disconnect this connection here. All right. So, before we can install our new alternator into the vehicle, I just need to transfer over this mounting bracket. I'm going to use my 8-millimeter socket, remove the two bolts, and transfer it over to my new one. With this bracket installed, now we're ready to throw this into the car.So, now, we're ready to install our new alternator. And before I can fully install it and bolt it in, I have to make sure I hook up all of my electrical connections so that the charging system works properly. So, I'm just gonna lay this in place, and I'll insert the eyelet and reinstall my 10-millimeter nut. And I can tighten that down. And then I will plug in the electrical connection on the back, make sure that clicks into place. Make sure you put your boot over the nut and I can slide everything back in. Now I can reinstall my 13-millimeter nuts on the studs and my 10-millimeter bolts at the top of the bracket.And now, I can tighten those down. With my new alternator securely bolted down into place, I can once again take my 1/2-inch ratchet and push down on my tensioner and put my belt back on it. Make sure that when you're doing this, you make sure that the belt is sitting properly on all of the pulleys that didn't come out of place when you moved it. And once you see that all the ribs are sitting properly, you can release tension and move on to the next step.Next, we can reinstall our throttle body and intake tube. Once again, I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket for the nuts on the bottom and an 8-mil for the bolts on the top. Then I can reinstall my electrical connections. Make sure I push down the red lock tabs. Now, I can reinstall the intake tube. Now, I'll just use my 8-millimeter socket to tighten down the clamps. And then reinstall my PCV valve. Finally, we can reinstall our negative battery terminal and tighten it down with an 8-millimeter socket.And that's gonna wrap up this review and install the SR Performance 200 amp alternator fitting your 2005 to 2008 Mustang GT. Thanks for watching. And for all things Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
More Power. The SR Performance 200 Amp Alternator produces 100+ amps at an idle (2000 alternator shaft RPM) and 200+ amps at maximum (6000 alternator shaft RPM). Designed for highly (electrically) modified cars - this alternator will significantly increase the charging capacity at all RPM Ranges with no modifications when upgrading from smaller units.
Peace of Mind. Why waste your time and money rebuilding your alternator again and again when it will only fail? Replace your faulty alternator with a brand new high performance one from SR Performance for peace of mind.
Required Upgrade. In order to properly use this 200 Amp Alternator, you are required to upgrade to a Premium Power 4 Gauge Wire Kit. This is because the OEM wire was not designed to carry the larger charging capacities of higher Amp alternators. See the Buy Together section above.Application. The SR Performance 6G Series 200 Amp Alternator is a direct fit replacement with no mounting bracket modifications required to be installed on 2005-2008 GT Mustang models. The stock belt can be used on original equipment vehicles.
Fitment: 2005 2006 2007 2008 Details
SR Performance SR2158WHO
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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