(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Yes, our performance axle-back here will be the most affordable of its kind that does not totally delete the muffler and will produce a nice deep but not over the top tone for your 2011 through 2014 Mustang GT. Materials will be 99% aluminized steel including the small amount of 3-inch mandrel-bent tubing along with the straight through by design mufflers, but finally, polished 4-inch tips will be given the stainless treatment for right around 270 bucks for the pair. Axle-back installs on the S197 are a 100% bolt-on job, but since that work is done underneath the car, figure a soft two out of three wrenches on the old difficulty meter and about an hour or two from start to finish. But as always, guys, hang till the end of the video and we'll show you how to get it in place. So with the pleasantries out of the way, let's dive right into the sound you can expect from this very budget-friendly system, and at first glance, you see the appearance, you see these kind of straight through round mufflers. You expect this thing to really scream. But honestly, guys, that's not the case here with this particular system. Instead, the sound you are getting is going to be relatively tame overall, so going into my wake-the-neighbor scale, I have the SR axle-back back coming in at a very strong three out of five on my patented one to five or one to wake-the-neighbor scale. Certainly not going to be Borla Touring quiet, but on the other hand, it's not going to be anywhere as loud as the Roush or Flowmaster Outlaw. And inside the car, on the other hand, things are relatively tame as they were on the outside, no crazy drone, nothing that's going to drive you crazy on long trips, which is nice to report on such a budget-friendly system. Switching gears, let's talk build, and honestly guys, this is a pretty solid system given the bargain bin price. The only downside here is going to be material which again is going to be that aluminized steel. Not a huge deal for most owners out there who really don't live in a salty or snowy climate, but for owners who daily their ride no matter what the conditions, the aluminized steel can and will corrode on you over the years which is why stainless steel typically gets the nod in the exhaust world. Now, however, if you live in a sunny dry state, this really shouldn't be a concern at all. You'll get many years of fun use out of the SR system. Aside from the materials, you're also looking at a very small amount of three-inch mandrel-bent tubing leading into and out of that round muffler, SR calls them chambers. They're straight through by design, but if you look in there, you see kind of that perforated tube design that some manufacturers like to use. Now, everything is going to exit out of these four-inch slash cut tips. They are removable, and they are going to be the little bit or alone bit of stainless on this system, which is worth pointing out because let's be honest, that's what you see the most of. But again, no cutting, no permanent modification needed with these axle-back installs on the S197, pretty easy job in the garage and approve it to you, here is that detailed walkthrough we promised you in addition to a quick tool breakdown. Tools used for this installation are going to be a 3/8s drive, an extension, an 8-millimeter Allen key. You can use an Allen key or a socket like this, 15-millimeter socket, 13-millimeter socket, a universal swivel is very helpful. Some white lithium grease for your hangers, flathead screwdriver, exhaust hanger removal tool, mallet, eye protection for your grinder. I had to grind our stock clamps off the muffler, and optional is an impact. What we're going to do now is remove our axle-back mufflers. I have a 13-millimeter deep socket and we're going to take this clamp off our muffler, and we're just going to leave it loose like that and separate the muffler from the tailpipe here just like that. Now we can work on our three hangers, there's two on the top, the rear of the muffler, and then there's one on the front. All right, this is an exhaust hanger removal tool. What we're going to do is put this little slot on the backside of our hanger like that and then the front is going to go on to the other side of the hanger. Just make sure you're on there and then just pull back and get that out. Now, what I'm going to do is take a mallet and separate our muffler from our tailpipe section here just like that, ensure that that is separate. And what we're going to do is move that out of the way, get our muffler removed from these two hangers in the rear. All right. We're running into a little clearance issue getting our muffler disconnected from our hanger back there. So what I'm going to do now is do one section at a time and remove this part of the resonator system back. All right. We're just going to let this section hang right here because as you can see, we have a lot more room for our muffler. What we're going to do now is push back on our muffler to try to get these hangers free from those rubber isolators just like that. We're going to do one side at a time, and what I have here is a bottle of white lithium grease. What I'm going to do is spray our rubber isolators down. This allows the muffler and the hangers to slide very easily in and out. And I'm even going to spray a little bit on our mufflers themselves. All right, I will tip this on. Start from the back and you should just watch it slip right in. Looking fine in your isolator. There we go. All right, that's in, so is that. Let's get our forward in. Now, let's get our rear isolator on. All right, guys, so unfortunately, these clamps from the factory are weld on to our muffler and the kit does not include them, but it's really easy to take them off. There's a spot weld here and a spot weld there. We're just going to chop it off right here. And always remember to wear your safety protection eyes and ears. All right. Now that that clamp's off, we're going do the same thing with the other muffler and get that clamp off as well. Let's get this side of the exhaust on. Then we can move on to our other side. Make sure you slide this clamp on all the way, you may need a mallet. Now, let's tighten that up with our 15-millimeter deep socket. Let's connect our muffler now. All right, now we're going to connect our muffler to our tailpipe section here. Again, we are reusing that factory clamp. Let's get our 13-millimeter back on our socket. Here we go, make sure it is on both of the muffler and the tailpipe section. All right. So we're going to repeat all those same steps on the driver side. Again, we're going to let this tailpipe section hang out for a little while we get the muffler out. You saw how tough it was to get that driver side muffler out. Again, this white lithium grease is going to be a lifesaver. All right, let's get our tailpipe section back into place. Let me get my mallet back. Let's tighten that back up. All right, we're going to pull our clamp back on our passenger side and try to slip it on here. It's going to be a little space. Just push it up with your hand. Slide over our SR performance. Now, let's tighten up our muffler and tailpipe section. All right. So I have an 8-millimeter Allen key socket on the end of a swivel. It is going to be tough to reach, that's why I'm using the swivel. Let's put our tips on. I'm just going to put them on loose right now just so I can get on the ground and then readjust. This one's going to be real tough. I'm going to need a socket for it, a socket wrench. Again, I have them loose so I can get it on the ground and see what it looks like. All right, I had the vehicle on the ground for a brief moment and the tip is perfect, so I'm going to tighten what I got now. All right, that's good there. Let's get this one tight as well. All right, that's going to do it. All right, guys, that's going to wrap up my install of the SR performance axle-back muffler kit, and for all things Mustang, keep it here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 2011 2012 2013 2014 Details
SR Performance 405486
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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