Review & Install Video
Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. And today we're taking a closer look at, installing and dyno testing the C&L Street Cold Air Intake with a 95-millimeter MAF housing along with the Bama X4 combo available for the '11 to '14 GT. You should be checking out this convenient combo kit if you're looking for an intake and tune to take your horsepower and torque numbers to the next level maximizing all of the mods on your vehicle while also getting a better-breathing, better-performing engine in the process.
So, of course, we established our baseline run with our '14 GT bone stock under the hood, stock tune with just 93 octane in the tank, walked away with 341 horsepower, 343 foot-pounds of torque at the rear. We then installed our C&L intake with a 95-millimeter housing without that insert so it required a tune. We then, of course, uploaded our Bama 93 race tune, ran it under the same conditions in fifth gear, walked away with 381 horsepower and 377 foot-pounds of torque at the rear. Good for peak gains of 40 horsepower and 34 torque at the rear and curve gains at the top end of the RPM band. Around 5100 RPMs of 35 horsepower, and 36 torque at the tire. Now, the intake itself includes that 95-millimeter MAF housing, larger than stock. But one thing to note about that is it includes an insert that doesn't require a tune. If you wanna pop that insert out, throw your tune on, you can really maximize the performance gain. So, it's really a best of both worlds type of situation.
In addition to that, you're also getting an improved filter. You're swapping out that factory paper element for an oiled filter that's washable and reusable. Good to filter out all the particles you don't want getting into the engine bay while still pulling in all the cold air that you do want. In addition to that, you're getting the Bama X4 tuner. So, the combo kit here is gonna include an 87 and a 93 octane race tune maximizing those gains. Now, the Bama tuner comes with a number of other features I'll walk you through in just a little bit. In addition to all that, you're being enrolled in the Bama Free Tunes for Life Program. What that basically means is for the lifetime you have this tuner and your vehicle paired, you're able to get unlimited revisions on tunes. That means anytime you pick up an additional mod, say a cat-back, intake manifold, throttle body, whatever it may be, you hit up Bama, fill out the form again, and you get a revised tune for your new mods for free. No extra cost. That's all included with this particular combo kit with the Bama X4.
Now, before we get into anything, guys, know that it comes in just under the $800 mark. Talking around $780 for the kit, saving you a little bit if you were to get everything separately. Now, the install is gonna get one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Anybody can tackle it with very simple hand tools in the driveway at home. No cutting, no modifications like that. It's very simple. I'm gonna take you through every step of the process. It takes about two maybe three hours from start to finish for everything. What do you say we get started?
Tools used in this install include an impact gun or a ratchet, an extension, 8, 10, and 13-millimeter deep sockets, a T20 Torx bit, a Phillips head screwdriver, and pliers.
Now, guys, in order to remove your factory intake, you do it to pop your engine cover off but the strut tower brace is preventing that. So, we're gonna pop our strut tower brace off first to get that off. So, grab a 13-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove the two 13 nuts on each side on the top of your strut tower. You wanna make sure you're holding onto these to reinstall later. All right. Now, we can do the same thing on the other side. All right. Now, you can just lift straight up on your brace and set it aside. Now, the engine cover isn't bolted on, it's just got little nipples that it's attached to. So, you're gonna basically put your finger up here and push straight up, disconnect the front and the back and set it aside.
Next up we're gonna disconnect the harness connected to your MAF sensor. So, underneath, there's a little red locking tab, just pull straight back on that you'll hear a click, pinch and disconnect. Over on this side, we have a breather line. Now, that has to be disconnected as well. It's a little bit different. This little gray tab here, you're gonna push forward and pull back on and just disconnect the hose. Now, for your sound tube, you're gonna grab needle nose pliers, you're gonna pinch the hose clamp and pull back on it to disconnect it. All right. Next up we're gonna loosen the clamp holding your tubing to the throttle body. Now, you can use a flathead screwdriver for this or an 8-millimeter socket. If you're using an impact gun, just put it on its lowest setting. There's no need to blast it off. Now, we have one more bolt and then we can pull it off. All right. On the side, the right side of your factory heat shield, you have a 10-millimeter bolt here. Keep in mind that there is an air duct on the bottom so just wanna make sure you're disconnecting it from that. Which just pulls straight out. Now, the sound tube just pops right out of place and you can set it aside.
So, we finally got our factory intake off of our '14 GT behind me on the table next to our C&L cold air intake and I wanna take you through some of the similarities but mainly the differences between the two kits starting with our filter. As you can see, a complete night and day difference between the two. Your factory filter I took out of our heat shield just to show you guys how different it is. This is our paper element filter. It's very traditional, things that you see from the factory all the time with a lot of vehicles. Does a fine job in the factory intake but when you wanna upgrade and pull in more cold air while also filtering out a lot more of the elements, upgrading to an active market filter like this oiled filter is gonna be the way to go, hands down.
This is a conical filter as opposed to the factory flat paper element which is also made from a cotton gauze material with a wire mesh outer layer to filter out a lot more than your factory filter ever could. Now, this is washable and reusable. All you have to do is pop it out, wash it, re-oil it, throw it right back in. Now, the oiled filter does require a little bit more maintenance than a dry filter which you wouldn't need to wash and re-oil, you'll just spray down with pressurized air to clean and throw it back in. But the oil is gonna trap in a lot more of those particles. And because it's reusable, you can save money when it comes time for routine maintenance.
Now, the rest of the kit here is also gonna be a big upgrade. You're going from a kinked up factory tubing, something that restricts a lot of that airflow to a completely smooth, a lot larger of a tubing here that also comes with the 95-millimeter MAF housing that you see here. Now, this is really cool and very unique to the C&L intake. It has this insert tube that goes straight into the side here. This is for the guys who don't need a tune, who don't want a tune. Maybe for the guys who don't wanna spend the big bucks on this combo kit we have today and maybe just wanna pick up the intake. Thinking about upgrading to the tune later on, this is something that you can insert and not require one. But for the guys who are using this kit, who have the tune, this combo kit, pop that out and it'll start requiring a tune. This is basically removing some of that big space. When you take it out, it's a lot larger of an opening here to pull in more cold air requiring that tune that we have today. So, this is a good thing to have on deck. Maybe if you wanna take the tune off and plug this up, that works too. So, that's a really versatile kit for tune and no tune situations. Now, because we have the Bama tune today, we're not going to be installing that insert, we're gonna go straight in with the larger 95 housing.
The rest of the kit comes with new blue couplers. See that a lot with the C&L kit, new clamps, and a new heat shield. Also has weatherstripping to make sure it's trapping in that cold air rather than having a little bit more of a leak for the hot engine bay heat to get in. So, with all of that in mind, we're gonna transfer over our factory MAF sensor to this here housing and then we're gonna toss all that stuff off the table.
Now, what I'm gonna do is take a T20 Torx bit and just with the bit itself, I'm gonna remove the two Torx bit screws holding on our factory MAF sensor. Now, these are typically just a little bit snug on so you can just get it off with a socket, but if you need to, grab a ratchet. Loosen that up, pop out these screws. Once you have the screws out of place, pull the MAF out gently, set it down, and you can put your factory intake aside. All right. Now, what we're gonna do is take our 95 housing. If you are using the insert, it's got a slot cut out for it, you're gonna insert that in and line it up with that hole. If you guys are using the Bama 93 octane tune, do not use that tubing because it's gonna prohibit some of that power. You're not gonna make as much power as you want. As a matter of fact, it might bog you down a little bit. So, what you wanna do is make sure there's no insert. If you're using that tune like we are, put your MAF in. It only goes in one way. It'll only line up the holes one way. Grab the Phillips head screws included in the kit and you're gonna thread those in a little bit by hand on each side and then we're gonna grab a Phillips head screwdriver and tighten them down.
All right. Next up, we can grab our tubing. It's basically going to install just like this. You wanna make sure the C&L logo is facing upward, the larger portion is gonna go to that MAF housing, and the smaller portion is gonna go to your throttle body. Before you do anything, grab a clamp. This one we're gonna take the smaller coupler, we're gonna insert that clamp over that coupler. This we're gonna install on our throttle body end. All right. Once you get that seated on, make sure you're coupler is oriented properly and again, you can loosen it up if it makes it easier. Grab an 8-millimeter socket and tighten it down. Now, we're gonna grab the larger coupler and do the same thing on the opposite side. Take the larger clamp included in the kit and insert this over the end. All right. Put your clamp into position on the end there and tighten it down to the tubing. Now, on the other end to that, you're gonna install your MAF sensor. You wanna make sure the C&L logo is facing upward and grab a clamp for the other end. All right. You wanna make sure the MAF sensor is facing forward again right into the engine bay and tighten down that clamp.
All right. Now, we can start installing under the hood. So, grab your tubing first and we're gonna install that onto the throttle body. Make sure you have an additional clamp over the outlet side of this coupler here. It's gonna snap right on there. We can grab our 8-millimeter socket and tighten down this clamp once you get it in place. All right. Next up, grab your heat shield and we're gonna slide that down just past the factory duct, the air duct right down there and line it up with the bolt hole on your inner wheel well where we removed that factory 10-millimeter. Grab that factory bolt and tighten it down to that same location. We're just gonna thread that in by hand for now. We'll come back to tighten it down. From here what you're gonna wanna do is grab the MAF harness and feed that into the housing and connect it to your factory mass airflow sensor. Clip that down, drop the red locking tab, and we're good to move on.
Now, you can drop your filter into the MAF housing. Keep in mind that it may come in contact with one of your ABS lines right here above that pump. You may need to shuffle it left or right just gently. Make sure your filter is oriented properly. Now, you can tighten it down. Now, you can grab your 10-millimeter socket and tighten down that bolt on the inner wheel well. All right. Now, we can grab the factory vacuum line or breather hose, connect that to the fitting already installed on your C&L tubing. Just gonna push that down until you hear that click. There we go. Now, we can work on our sound tube. Now, for your sound tube, you wanna grab that factory clamp, you're gonna grab some pliers. Now, needle nose does work if you have some with some good grip. If not, you can grab regular pliers and just close that entire clamp and connect it to your new tube fitting on the intake. From there, let go of that clamp and it shuts itself down. Tuck that sound too down and you're good to go.
Guys, first step, grab the harness included in your X4 kit. You're gonna plug the OBD2 port into the OBD2 under your driver side dashboard right here on the left-hand side. Once that's plugged in, put the key in the ignition, turn it on, and plug in the top of your X4. Now, we can get started. All right, guys, jumping right into it. Once you plug in your device, you'll be prompted to the main menu. To get right into tuning, we're gonna press program vehicle. You wanna make sure you're recognizing the whole street notice thing. This device is not legal for sale or use in California. Press continue. Make sure the key is in the on position.
Now, once you get to the menu where you're selecting your tune, you wanna make sure you're selecting the one that you want to flash. Now, we are only using the 93 race tune for the C&L intake. But you guys may have an 87 available as well. I'm gonna show you guys the 93 so we're gonna select that. From there it'll start loading up, it'll save your stock tune to the device, and it'll begin tuning. Before it gets into anything, it will ask if you wanna make any adjustments. So, you can adjust global spark, axle ratio, revs, speed limiter, rev limiter, so on and so forth. There's a number of things you can change. We're just gonna use the stock 93 octane tune from Bama. We're not gonna make any additional changes. So, you can hit approve or make any changes that you'd like to. Just know it'll disable the preloaded tune that comes for your 5.0 on the device, you wanna confirm, continue. Make sure the key is in the on position. It may ask you to turn the key off and on a few times throughout the process so just be standing by, keep an eye out. Also, you don't wanna unplug the device at all or take the key out of the ignition.
All right. It'll prompt you to say, "Download is complete, you can turn the key off." Press done, takes you right back to the main menu. I wanna take you guys through some of the features of the X4 device starting with the main menu. Now, if you're already familiar with the Rev-X, this is very, very similar with very small changes. What we're gonna do is go straight back down to gauges and data log. Now, you wanna make sure your key is in the ignition and turned on but you don't wanna start your engine. Press continue. This is going to allow you to track live engine vitals. You first wanna make sure you're selecting the right configuration or platform. So, Ford gas '08 and newer. Since we're in a '14, press continue. Start with that correct configuration, it'll load up and access the gauges.
Now, this is a good way to really not have to have a bunch of gauge pods or any other additional devices in the car to track engine vitals. As you can see, we have two gauges upfront here, control module voltage up top, coolant temp on the bottom. You can select one of them. Say we wanna change control module voltage. Select it, select item. Say we wanna track air intake temp. Select it, hit approve. And that'll replace that one gauge. So, it's extremely useful for the guys who wanna see those on the fly. As you know the X4 on the back comes with windshield mount holes already there. So, if you wanted to mount the device somewhere, it's really easy to do so and you can track this on the fly. Now, if you wanted to change the gauge layout, you can monitor up to eight different vitals at once. Can select this, we have four on the left, four on the right. Now, they're a lot smaller, but if you wanna track more you can do so. You can also change the orientation to landscape. If you wanna mount it horizontally from there, we can hit record data log to record this and data log send it to Bama or your tuner to make revisions if necessary and check up on the performance. You can also hit stop, take you right back to the main menu.
In addition to that, going to vehicle functions you can read and clear diagnostic trouble codes. Check engine light comes on, you don't need a separate device for that. Plug your X4 into the OBD2, select vehicle functions, read DTC codes will give you the code and a description and you can hit clear. Special functions is more of a cam relearn. Most guys won't need that so you can exit, head back to the main menu.
Under that, vehicle info will give you things like your VIN number, your ECU strategy, all the information you need to request a new tune. Very useful for the Bama Free Tunes for Life Program. Device info will give you a software that you're on. If you need an update, you can check the software firmware. Device serial number, again, useful for new tunes. Finally, device settings is useful. You have check for updates and you have Wi-Fi capability. So, connect to Wi-Fi, then you can check for updates wirelessly. You won't have to plug this into your computer or laptop every time you wanna update it, so that's super useful. The rest of it is just simple settings. You can adjust brightness, orientation again to change the landscape, change the theme if you wanna go from red to blue, you can hit that, it changes. So, little customizations here and there to make it your own. A couple other things, you can also do a factory reset to erase everything on the device. So, that's really all of the X4 options built-in and a lot of useful stuff here.
That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the C&L Street Cold Air Intake with a 95-millimeter MAF housing and the Bama X4 Tuner combo kit with two custom tunes for the '11 to '14 GT. And you can get this kit right here at americanmuscle.com.