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MonoSS Coil-Over Kit (11-23 RWD Challenger)

Item CH15262
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$929.99 (each)

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      Product Videos

      Noah: I am Noah from AmericanMuscle and today, we're taking a look at the MonoSS Coil-Over Kit for the 2011 and newer Rear-Wheel Drive Challenger. This kit is a track-oriented setup for the Challenger owner who's looking to lower their ride and improve their car's handling capabilities dramatically.So, first, there are some features on this coil-over kit that are pretty cool. We are looking at 16 different dampening levels, 52-millimeter shock bodies, racing-grade shock oil, and spring tension and ride height adjustment. This is gonna give you plenty of room to really dial in your suspension and get handling exactly how you want it. This sets coil-overs on a higher tier than a lowering spring setup where you're stuck in a static position with no way to perfect ride height and feel of your suspension.Now, these coil-overs are all metal and you can tell pride was taken in the construction of this kit. Some points to note. We have steel shock bodies, Koyo Japanese 6204 bearings, CNC aluminum accessories, and everything is coated in a protective finish to combat corrosion.Then coming in at $1000 price point, these coil-overs prove to be a decent price for a complete install kit. Now, one more thing I feel is worth mentioning is that something like a lowering spring kit may be a cheaper option than a set of coil-overs. However, they still require spring compression and some more labor to get the struts assembled before installation. Coil-overs may be more expensive, but I do believe that they're worth the investment in the long run just because they're ready to drop in.Installing these guys on your Challenger can prove to be a little bit of a time-consuming and moderately difficult job. We're looking at a solid two out of three wrenches of difficulty and about a day's work. After getting these installed, be sure to get an alignment scheduled before you drive any long distances. Without further ado, let's head over to the install bay and get these on our Challenger.Man 1: Tools used for this install, a 1/2-inch impact gun, a pry bar, a 21-millimeter open-end wrench, an 18-millimeter open-end wrench, 22, 21, 18, 16, 15, 13, and 10-millimeter sockets, a 1/2-inch drive swivel, a 3/8ths swivel, a long 3/8ths extension, and a 3/8ths electric impact gun.Hey, guys. I'm gonna show you how to install our coil-over suspension here on our 2016 Challenger, but first, we're gonna watch a quick uninstall video on how to remove our front and rear suspension on our 2013, which is the same as our '16, and then we'll jump right back into the install.Man 2: First up, we're gonna get our wheels out of the way. Our factory lug nuts here are 22 millimeters, so I got my impact gun. I'm using air tools for this, but if you don't have air tools, of course, a lug wrench works just as well. This is just gonna make life a little easier.All right. Next step, we're gonna disconnect some of the ABS lines here so we don't put too much stress on them as we remove some suspension components. Now, these are just rubber, just gonna pull straight off on that guy. There's two more clips on your brake lines as well. I'm just gonna disconnect those to give it a little bit more slack.Next up we're gonna disconnect our sway bar end link from the strut body. Now, this is a 21-millimeter nut. Now using air tools, it can be a little easier, but if you're using an impact gun, it might start spinning the bearing, in which case you want to be able to hold onto the backside with something to keep it from spinning. Got it.All right. So now you can pull the sway bar end link out of the strut body. And I like to just put that nut back on just to keep it safe, you know, so we don't lose it. What I just did was I put a pry bar right on the other side of the spacer to put a little tension on it as I took it off to keep it from spinning.All right. Next up we're gonna tackle the nut holding on our upper control arm to the knuckle itself. Now this is an 18-millimeter nut and what we're gonna do is use a swivel socket on my impact gun or you can use a ratcheting wrench. That'll work as well. We're gonna work this guy off. It might also be a good idea to put a pry bar on the spring and pry down on it so it doesn't shoot off.All right. We're gonna keep this on a couple of threads just to make sure we can disconnect these two without it shooting off. So, just put the nut on a couple of threads. So, now I'm gonna pry up to disconnect the ball joint here. So now we can pry back down, take that nut off, and work this off easily.All right. Just guided the knuckle back down and I'm just gonna thread the nut back on so we don't lose it. All right. Use that same 18-millimeter socket and we're gonna remove the bolt holding on at the factory strut to the bottom control arm here, the lower control arm. Now the the nut is already on the strut body, so we don't need a wrench on the other side, but I am gonna keep my hand here to keep it from popping off too quickly. Here we go.All right. Next up we're under the hood because we have to remove the three nuts holding on the top of the strut tower. Now I'm gonna twist off this cap here and I'm gonna set that right onto our cowl there. Now that will expose the back two there. These are 13-millimeters, so grab your impact gun and your socket and get those three off.All right. Now as you remove the third one, the strut's gonna fall straight through, so you wanna have a hand on it to get it off. All right. Now that you have a hand on it, you can push down on the suspension assembly there to pull the strut away from the lower control arm and then off of the vehicle.All right. First step here for the rear of course is gonna be to get the wheel outta the way. Switch back over to a 22-millimeter socket to get our factory lugs off. All right. Now, the top of the shock body is connected to the body of the vehicle here with these two 16-millimeter bolts, I'm gonna use a swivel socket on these and get them off.All right. The next step here is actually a little bit different. We have to remove the two hanger brackets from the frame here in order to drop our driver's side exhaust down a little bit. The reason we're doing this is because the bolt holding on the lower control arm there that we have to remove the decompress our spring doesn't have enough clearance to come out with the exhaust pipe. So, we're gonna lower it down. I'm gonna use my 13-millimeter swivel socket, which I recommend, along with an extension to get these two bolts off the frame.All right. Now I'm gonna keep my fist right here on the muffler so it doesn't drop down on me and we can slowly lower it. All right. So, I'm gonna bring this guy down. The muffler's gonna come out of the bumper there. All right. And now it's low enough, we have enough clearance for the bolt.All right. So, now that we have enough clearance for that bolt, the next step is to support the lower control arm so that when we remove the bolt, it's holding the tension on the spring so we can lower it down slowly and safely. I'm gonna use a pole jack here since we're on a lift, but if you're working on the ground, a hydraulic jack does the trick as well. I'm gonna put that right up here and I'm gonna put that jack tension on the lower control arm. So, now when we lower it down, it's gonna be nice and even and come down safely. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket on the bolt head and an 18-wrench on the nut on the other side.All right. Next step, we have this taken care of, what we're gonna do is slowly start lowering our pole jack down to relieve the tension from the spring to take it out safely. You definitely wanna do this slow. If you're working on the ground with a hydraulic jack, make sure you're relieving that as slow as possible.Once you start being able to wiggle it, the tension's not as strong, so we're just gonna keep going down until the spring is loose, which you can see it is. Just bring it down enough that you can get it out. So, here, we can lift our spring out and set that aside and then work on our shock.Man 1: So, now we got our coil spring removed from our vehicle, I'm gonna show you here on the bench here how to set your ride height and also how you use the spanner wrench here on your locking nuts. You can set your spring pressure. The manufacturer gives you directions on how to set this. And I'm just gonna go over a couple things with you quick before we install this onto our vehicle.So, now as you can see, I have my new strut and the old strut on the table. And the reason I have that is because what I did was I ended up lining these holes evenly here and then adjusted the body of the strut here, which spins, to get the length I want to set the ride height.Now, on our vehicle, I'm only gonna go about an inch right here from the top to the bottom. So, we're only gonna drop this, hopefully, it's gonna drop an inch. And then what you're just gonna do is take your jam nut here, tighten it up. And in the kit, they also supply you with the spanner wrenches you're going to use to lock this in place. And then you have these locking nuts up here. You have one and then an adjuster.In the directions from the manufacturer, they tell you how and what you need to do to set your spring rate. Ours is already set here. It's pretty loose. I have it just waiting to just lock this locking nut in place. And then on the top, you have your adjuster here for your dampening of your strut. You're gonna be able to look into the manufacturer's directions again and see what they recommend or however you feel you want to adjust this when you get this into the vehicle.So now that we have our strut set for our height, we're gonna take it right now, we're gonna install it into our vehicle. So now first thing I'm gonna do once we have it in place here is I'm gonna take our bolt. This is the one we removed when we took this apart. And you're gonna have to find a nut to put on the other side because our nut was welded on the back of the other strut.So, I do have a nut here and we're gonna use the bolt and push it through. There we go. Let's get this [inaudible 00:11:17.625]. Here we go. Like that. And we'll take our nut, put it on the other side. And what we're gonna do is go up to the top, start our 13-millimeters, then we'll be able to tighten this up down there and put our control arm back in place here with our spindle mount.Now we're gonna install our three 13-millimeters up top here and we'll get these started. I'm gonna take my 13-millimeter socket on my 3/8ths electric gun here, tighten 'em up, and we'll put our cap back on and put that in place where it goes. like that. Now we'll go back underneath and finishing bolting everything up.So, now we're gonna reconnect our upper ball joint. Just gonna take...get this in place, line it up, start our nut here. I'm gonna grab my 3/8ths gun with my 18-millimeter and get on this, tighten that up just like that. So, now I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter and my 18-millimeter here on my gun and I'm gonna get up in here, tighten up our bottom strut bolt.So, now we're gonna just install our sway bar link right through the hole there and take my nut here and get it started, run it in. And then what I'm gonna do is take a 21-millimeter wrench and a 10-millimeter on my 3/8ths gun. I'm gonna hold that and tighten this up like that. And now you're gonna wanna repeat this whole install procedure on the opposite side.So, now we got everything out on the table here for our rear coil-over kit. What we're going to see here is we have our shock, and what we're gonna be able to do is just adjust this just like we did the front. You have your locking nut here, you have your housing here where you spin, you can see all the threads. And what I did here was I adjusted it so it's the same height almost except for about 3/4 of an inch difference right here to set that just to start with.You're gonna be able to adjust it on the car if you want. And the same with our coil spring. As you can see, our coil spring is a lot shorter than this one. And then they give you this adjuster here to set your ride height. So, what I did, same deal on this, I set it about 3/4 of an inch in this sway. And it's basically what you're gonna do with this, is you're gonna spin this part and then you're gonna jam this part to lock it. And then they give you the spanner wrenches in the kit, which you're gonna be able to use to lock this in place and you just snug it like that.Also, you have your rubber seal here. That's gonna go on top of your sleeve that's gonna go over top of the hub when we put it inside there and it's gonna look something like that. That's what we're going to do and we'll get ready to stick this in the vehicle now.So, now we're gonna put our shock in place first. We have it set. I got the height set about just where it was. So, we're just gonna spin it around here a little bit. We're going to get it up in the place here and I'm gonna push it down inside the control arm like that. And I'm gonna get it so I can line up the hole down here and we'll get that lined up first. So, now I'm gonna just grab a hold of the shock here and wiggle it around till I line up the hole here like that. Slide our bolt back through, put our nut on the backside.Next what I'm gonna do is get our pole jack in place and we'll install our coil spring. So, now that we have our top plate sitting on our spring, you're gonna see the bottom spring is not flat, the top one is. The flat piece goes to the top. This is gonna sit down into the pocket into our factory rubber grommet here. And there is an indent for that when you get it in place here.You're gonna spin it till you see it falls down in there and then it'll stop. Kind of gets to where it's gonna be, just like that, and you can spin it, and then all of a sudden it stops. And that's where you're gonna want it. It sits down into. This can only be going one way. There's an indent here where the rubber sits and then there's an indent back here where the coil spring rides in place.So, once we get this to this point, I'm gonna move my pole jack underneath here and we're going to crank up on the pole jack here and get our coil spring in place. I'm able to pull my control arm over a little bit, raise this up. Now that we have it to that point, I'm gonna line this bolt up, put the bolt through, put the nut on the other side.Now I'm gonna take our lower control arm bolt, I'm gonna take my 15-millimeter with an extension in my 3/8ths gun, and I'm gonna line this up here. I'm gonna use a pry bar just to give it a little bit of help and I'm gonna spin it and run it in. And then what we're gonna have to do is once I get it so far, I'm gonna have to come back over here. Probably gonna have to lower down on the pole jack a little bit, get it to go through, all right, about there, and then running in the rest of the way.Once we get it to that point, I'll stick the nut on and we'll tighten it up. We're gonna stick the nut on the backside and take my 15-millimeter with my long extension on my gun. We're gonna tighten this up. I'm gonna put an 18-millimeter wrench on the other side to hold the nut. And while we're under here, we'll tighten up the lower shock bolt the same way, 18-millimeter wrench and a 15-millimeter on my gun.Now we're gonna reinstall our exhaust. We're gonna put our two 13-millimeters. I got a 13-millimeter socket with a long extension on my 3/8ths gun. I'm just gonna get this bolt started here, put it up into place. And then we're gonna do the same with the front one here, and we'll run this one in.Now we're gonna take and install our upper shock here. We're gonna take our two bolts that we took out from the factory and we're gonna run these into place here, same as this one. We'll get 'em started. Now I'm gonna take my 18-millimeter again on my gun with a swivel, tighten these up. That's one. And now you're gonna wanna repeat this whole install procedure on the opposite side.Noah: That was the MonoSS Coil-Over Kit for the 2011 and newer Rear-Wheel Drive Challenger. Remember, for all things Challenger, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Monotube Coil-Over Kit
      • Features Stainless Steel Monotubes
      • Features 16 Precise Levels pf Damping Force Adjustment
      • Uses Koyo Japan 6204z Bearings
      • One Year Warranty
      • Professional Installation Recommended
      • Fits 2011-2023 RWD Challengers

      Description

      Monotube Coil-Over Kit. Whether it's an upgrade or just a replacement piece you are looking for, this MonoSS Coil-Over Kit is for you. Designed to improve your driving experience, this Coil-Over Kit features quality components and performance-focused engineering perfect for the track or the highway.

      Track-Grade Components. Made for strength and speed, this Coil-Over Kit uses 52mm Mono-Tubes made from stainless steel, and features 16 levels of damping adjustment. The Koyo Japan 6204z bearing provides smooth motion which works perfectly with its independent spring tension and height adjustment features. It also comes with racing-grade shock oil that sports a high viscosity index.

      Warranty. There is a 1-year warranty on this product.

      Installation. This product is easy to install and should take about 1 hour.

      Application. The MonoSS Coil-Over Kit fits 2011-2023 RWD Challengers.

      Fitment:

      Details

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Coil-Over Kit
      5.0

      Customer Reviews (3)

        Reviews of similar Suspension products have an average rating of 4.8 out of 5

          Questions & Answers

          10 More Questions

          Will It Fit My Challenger

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          • GT - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
          • R/T - 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
          • R/T 392 - 17, 18
          • R/T Classic - 12
          • R/T Plus - 15, 16
          • R/T Plus Shaker - 16
          • R/T Scat Pack - 16, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
          • R/T Scat Pack Shaker Widebody - 21
          • R/T Scat Pack Widebody - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
          • R/T Shaker - 16
          • Rallye Redline - 14
          • Scat Pack - 15
          • SE - 11
          • SRT 392 - 15, 16, 17, 18
          • SRT Demon - 18
          • SRT Hellcat - 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
          • SRT Hellcat Redeye - 19, 20, 23
          • SRT Hellcat Redeye Widebody - 19, 20, 23
          • SRT Hellcat Widebody - 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
          • SRT Jailbreak - 23
          • SRT Super Stock - 20, 21, 22, 23
          • SRT8 - 11, 12, 13, 14
          • SXT - 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
          • SXT Plus - 12, 15, 16, 17, 18
          • T/A - 17, 18
          • T/A 392 - 17, 18
          • T/A 392 Widebody - 21