(approx) 1 Hour
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$109.99 (pair)FREE Shipping
Saved - View your saved items
We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.
Jake: Jake here for American Muscle, and today, I'm taking a look at the C&L Super Sport Cross-Drilled and Slotted Rear Brake Rotors for 2009-and-newer Challengers. I've said it plenty of times before, but brakes are some of the most important components on your vehicle. And if you're looking for a way to upgrade your Challenger's braking performance without spending a fortune, these drilled and slotted rotors are worth some serious consideration.Now, traditionally, manufacturers will equip their cars with solid discs from the factory. And while they might be vented, like these, they're gonna be solid on the face of the disks. And while those work just fine for most applications, there's definitely room for improvement. And one of the best ways to do that is to upgrade to a set of drilled and slotted rotors like these because these are gonna be extremely helpful in dissipating heat.Now, heat is the enemy of braking performance, and that's where these channels and the holes drilled in the faces of the rotors come in. As you apply the brakes, friction and heat build up on the pads and the faces of the rotors here, and these channels funnel the heat away and from the pads. The holes will allow yet another escape route where the heat can dissipate and get funneled out of the rotors themselves through these central veins. So these are vented as well. That means that all the hot gases have plenty of places through which to escape, and it's gonna keep them off the pads and the face of the rotors. Less heat means less chance of fading and better overall braking response and performance.If you've ever had brakes get hot on you, you know how scary of an experience that can be. There's really nothing you can do at that point. So doing everything you can before that happens to avoid this brake fade is worth it. And that's all to say here, again, you're gonna get much better heat dissipation, and that means your braking performance overall is gonna be much improved versus stock.Now, in addition to all that, these rotors are constructed from CNC-machined premium cast iron. So, they're similar in construction and make-up to your standard OEM breaks. However, they're also finished in a bright zinc electroplating to help prevent against rust and corrosion for a long time to come. But that cast iron construction means that the price stays low.Speaking of which, this set is gonna run you about $150, and that's very much on the lower end of the price spectrum for rear brake rotors for the Challenger, especially since these have the drilled and slotted designs. So, these are about the least expensive option available for drilled and slotted rotors for the Challenger.Now, of course, they also pair well with the matching set for the front brakes, and we do have those available on our site. I highly recommend picking up a set of those too so you have a nice matched set on all four corners, maybe even pick up a set of performance brake pads in there, too. You'll be surprised at what a difference that all can make.Installation here will come in at a two out of three on our difficulty meter, and it should take you about an hour to install. Now, brakes are a pretty straightforward job, if a little bit time consuming. Now, of course, you are gonna have to remove your calipers to get the old discs off and get these ones installed. Regardless, it's definitely a job that you can do at home, be it in the garage or in your driveway. And to show you just how to get it done, let's throw it over to one of our AM customers.Randall: These are all the tools that you're gonna need for the job, to change the rear brakes on your Challenger. Some kind of jack. You can use, of course, the jack that's in your truck. It's just easier to use a nice floor jack like this. This is the lug-nut tool/the jack tool that comes with your vehicle. So, you need to take the wheel off or some other tool that fits your lug nuts. Brake clean to wash off your new rotor and stuff that's on it from the factory. You need a socket tool with a 15-millimeter and an 18-millimeter. And this is...I use the vice grip to hold a [inaudible 00:03:38] to the...or you could use a...an 18-millimeter wrench would be perfect to hold the back piece of the bolt that...the 15-millimeter bolt that's on the caliper. Whatever you can use to hold that. Rubber mallet might help you break the rotor loose, or you might need to instead go big to use a rotor puller tool like this. And there's a breaker bar with a 3.75-inch socket on it, which meets the rotor puller tool. You definitely want some wheel chocks. So, for safety because you got to have the parking brake released. And also, lastly, you'll need some kind of clamp, and I needed a block, so it will depend on what size clamp you're using. Or if you actually have a caliper-squeezing tool, that'd be the best-case scenario. But I don't have all that, so... That's everything you should need.Hey there, my name's Randall. Today, I'm gonna be installing the rear rotors and pads on my 2012 Dodge Challenger R/T. It's a manual six-speed. The rotors are the C&L Supersport Drilled and Slotted. We're gonna started here.First thing you wanna do is... I already did it. You wanna chock your wheels up or chock your wheels so your vehicle can't roll. So, to be able to take the rotors off, you're gonna need to have your parking brake released, which I did that already. Once your wheels are chocked and your parking brake is released, you can go ahead and jack your vehicle up. Make sure you do that safely, whether you use the original jack, or it's a lot easier to use a nice floor jack. I got a two by four on top of it, so it doesn't damage anything underneath, and then I got it on the frame. So, go ahead and start jacking it up. Actually, before I do that, though, before I get it all the way off the ground, I wanna break the lug nut free. Perfect. So, the wheel doesn't spin on me once I've got it up in the air. It's easier to do it when it's on the ground, just get 'em started. Don't wanna take 'em all the way off. [inaudible 00:06:01].Now we'll get the wheel up in the air. It's got a little clearance underneath there now. [inaudible 00:06:19] back to the lug nut. Set all that aside. All right. Now we got the wheel out of the way and we're ready to take the caliper off, so we'll be able to pull the rotor off. First thing you'll need is a 15-millimeter socket, and either an 18-millimeter open-end wrench, or I couldn't find one so just some kind of pliers crimp or wires or something, you'll be able to use as well. Take the camera from me for a second here. These are the bolts we're looking at right here. This is your 15-millimeter socket you're gonna put on. And then you have to hold this piece here with the wrench because it screws into that, so you can't let that spin. So, there's one here on the top, and then another one here underneath. So that's what I'm gonna be working on. Hard show. [inaudible 00:08:03] bottom one. These come off pretty easy [inaudible 00:08:10]. So, make sure you get lucky. Yep, that's two.Set those bolts aside [inaudible 00:08:33], if you can get lucky. Here we go. That's two. Set those bolts aside. Don't lose those. And the caliper on here is kind of a two-piece assembly. This is the caliper itself. You can either wire that up, or I was able to set that there because you just don't want to let it hang by the hose there.Now, we've got two more bolts we gotta take off so that I'll take off this housing. The shoes are placed in there. I'll show you those bolts now. This is gonna be an 18-millimeter socket. So, two of them here, here's the top one right there, and the lower ones right there, the 18-millimeter socket. This one's gonna be a little tough, but a little bit of elbow grease should get it to break loose. All right. Now we're ready to break loose those bolts on the back of the caliper. Those are 18-millimeter. Start on the bottom one here, maybe. [inaudible 00:09:27]. Get to the other one. There. [inaudible 00:09:51] goes all the way out. [inaudible 00:10:48]. Now, let's remove the second piece of your caliper assembly. That's the part that holds your shoes on there. I'll be replacing those, as well. Oh, see if we get lucky [inaudible 00:11:00]. Not yet. Grab a rubber mallet, see if that will jar it loose. Give it some taps in the back here where the caliper was. All right. We're gonna go on to plan B, get a rotor puller on it. All right.This one's stubborn, so I got out the rotor puller tool. Line it up on the center of the...up there. And these three guys around the edges. You can get one of these. I got this from O'Reilly. They let you borrow 'em and return 'em for free. I'm sure there's other auto-parts stores that do similar things around the country. So, if you need one, it's a handy tool. This thing's spinning.There she is. And that's here you can see, that's your parking brake. That's what I mentioned at the beginning. You wanna make sure that's released. There's even a possibility... I've had issues in the past with...you can release if this is putting too much pressure on your rotor, that can cause some problem. Maybe that's part of the problem I was just having because there will wear a little lip on the inside of your rotor here. So, you might have to loosen that up, which there's a star wheel which you have to access from the back with a screwdriver.You can see it right here, the little access panels from behind. You'd have to look up... Each side you have to turn a different way to loosen it. You'd have to look that up. But if you're having trouble, check that out. Maybe loosen that up a bit so you don't have so much pressure on the inside of your rotor. There we go. All right. Well, here we have the old rotor that we just popped off. It got some wear, but it's got a groove on the inside from the e-brake. And then here's the new one. You know, it's an upgraded performance part from C&L. It's got the drilled and slotted.So, before you install a new rotor, usually, you wanna take a little bit of brake clean and just give it a little spray. I guess I'm running out here. But we got a little on there to clean it off just a bit. So, we'll go ahead and throw this guy on. I did a little research before I got these about, you know, which way you're supposed to install these when you get the drilled and slotted, because, you know, they appear directional. Like, technically, there's not a wrong answer. The rotor will work just fine either way. But it seems like the general...their design and the generally accepted consensus is you want... You know, this is passenger side of my vehicle. You want it so that your lines are going towards the rear of your vehicle, from the inside to the outside going towards the rear of the vehicle, so as it spins it kind of guides your gases out that are created from the braking process. So, either way, it'll work. You're still gonna stop, obviously, but this is the correct way to do it. That's it. You just...As far as the rotor goes, you just slap her on there. I'm gonna grab my caliper here now, and we'll put in the new shoes. Those are my old ones, pretty worn. And these are really simple to slide in. They only work one direction, so you can't really mess it up. Inside and outside are the same. And they just slide right in. You wanna put a little bit of this synthetic Moly brake grease that comes with the kit on. It's supposed to cause the braking to be a little quieter. I have no idea if that's true or not, but it's not gonna hurt anything to put a little bit on the back here. Don't put it on the braking surface of your pad. That'll destroy that. But just on the back of the pad. So I don't know if it really helps or not, but it's definitely not gonna hurt anything to just dab a little bit on there, spread it around.Now ready to reinstall. Grab your large 18-millimeter bolts, line those back up. There's two of them. One on the top, one on the bottom. That's pretty tight. That's that piece.All right. We got that first piece of the caliper assembly on. Now we're ready to get the actual caliper re-installed. First, we're gonna have to push this piston back in just with a clamp. So, I'll get this little block on here to protect it a little bit. I'm gonna use this [inaudible 00:18:54]. this guy in my hand, and that piston should go right back down. Once you've bottomed out the piston, take the clamp off. Now, you should be able to slide it right over your new shoes and rotor. It'd be a tight fit, but that's all right. [inaudible 00:19:48]. Take your 15-millimeter bolts and get them started. You need, again, a 15-millimeter socket, either an 18-millimeter open-end wrench or some kind of adjustable wrench, pliers, vice grip, whatever you got that'll work to hold this back piece so you can tighten up the bolt. [inaudible 00:20:54] bottom one. Clamp that back piece. Tighten it up. There we go. Now you're ready to put the wheel back on.All right. So, we got our rotors and caliper and pads all installed. All that's left to do is you put your wheel and tire back on. Since I had it off, I went ahead and cleaned up my rim trying to make it look real nice for a few days, I guess. Get all my lug nuts started. And they say you're always supposed to install your wheel and tighten your lug nuts in a star pattern, so that it sits down flat and properly. Get them all snug. And we'll let the jack down.Well, that's gonna do it. Come back and tighten up all your lugs so they don't work loose. That's it. That's how you replace brakes, and rotors, and pads on the rear of a 2012 Dodge Challenger R/T.Jake: That's gonna do it for our review and install of the C&L Supersport Cross-Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors for 2009-and-newer Challengers. Thank you so much for watching. And remember, for all things Challenger, be sure to keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
10 More Questions