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D2 Racing Pro Series Lowering Springs (08-23 RWD Challenger w/o Nivomat)

Item CH3448
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      Video Review & Installation

      Jake: Jake here for americanmuscle.com. And today I've got these D2 Racing Pro Series Lowering Springs for 2008 and newer Rear Wheel Drive Dodge Challengers without Nivomat Self-Leveling Shocks. If you're looking to improve the style and performance of your Challenger without breaking the bank, these springs from D2 Racing might just be the ticket for you.They combine great performance with solid construction, all at a really palatable price tag. So, it's no wonder that these are becoming so popular with Challenger owners. Lowering springs are sometimes a bit of a hot topic with car enthusiasts, but there's a reason that they continue to be some of the most popular mods or even the first ones that lots of owners make.They can have a pretty big effect on not just the look, but also the performance of your car by lowering the center of gravity and reducing the amount of compression in the suspension. But reducing wheel gap is also usually the primary goal because let's, to be honest, it just looks good. Now, these lowering springs from D2 Racing are gonna give you about a 2-inch drop front and rear. So, it's really gonna make a nice difference on the stance of your Challenger.Make sure you take a look at some of our customer photos so you can get an idea of how big of a difference it can make. However, these are more than just an aesthetic upgrade. In addition to the drop, you might have noticed these are progressive rates springs. Now, if you're not familiar with that term, it essentially means that the springs are engineered with two different spring rates. So, you can see the difference down here and how tightly these coils are wound versus how much wider they are up here.So, in terms of ride and handling, these are gonna have a softer initial spring rate, which is gonna help absorb bumps and road perfections. But as a suspension loads up in a corner, the spring rates get stiffer and it's gonna help reduce body roll and allow you to have more control over the vehicle. You think it would be more of a compromise, but it really kind of works out to be bit of the best of both worlds.These are an excellent setup for a street-driven car, especially since you're gonna get that compliant ride quality while still increasing the handling performance. However, if you're looking to make your Challenger into more of a track or strip car, it may be worth investigating some of the other options that are more specifically designed for those applications.That's not to say that D2 skimmed on quality, however, because that is certainly not the case. While these are a budget-friendly option, there are some really neat things baked into the recipe here. In addition to this cool purple powder-coated finish, which I think looks great, the springs themselves are cold wound and they're also shot for durability. Now, the cold winding process means that the metal hasn't been heated up and it hasn't been weakened that way.And the shot heating process helps eliminate any stress points in the metal, which is gonna result in the spring being quite strong and durable. One of the questions we get a lot when it comes to lowering springs has to do with supporting modifications while you're in there sort of stuff. And while yes, it is possible to just put lowering springs in your car and not have it be problematic.I would highly encourage you to take a look at the health of your suspension before you do so, especially with a heavier car like a Challenger. If your shocks are older, if the car has higher mileage or getting a bit worn out, or even if you just have some slop in the suspension bushings, just throwing on a set of lowering springs can yield a less than stellar result because it's going to put unnecessary wear on already weaker components.Now, the stance might end up perfect and the car might look great. But remember that your stock shocks are designed to work with stock springs. Lowering springs in addition to having that different spring rate like we talked about earlier are also physically shorter. So, your shock isn't gonna compress and rebound like it will with the factory springs. All that said, this is an excellent time to consider a set of upgraded shocks as well, since they are better able to handle the change in rate and geometry that lowering springs provide.And we do have some great options for upgraded shock available on our website, so be sure to take a look at those. Now, speaking of geometry, it's also worth noting that when you lower a car, you're going to change the geometry of your suspension overall, as far as how everything fits together and how it sits when it's all buttoned up. So, you should plan on getting your car aligned once you've got this all together.But the biggest thing we need to talk about here is the cost. Coming in around $225 for the set, these are about the least expensive lowering springs in the category, but as we discussed, you're still not gonna sacrifice on quality here. These are an excellent choice for your money, especially if your car is primarily street driven. These are gonna give you good looks, good ride quality, and some added performance for not a whole lot of cash.And in my book, that's a win. Now, as far as installation goes, these are gonna get a three out of three on a difficulty scale. And that's primarily because it's a bit of an involved job that requires you to use spring compressor. While it's not the hardest job you can do to your ride, it is gonna take you some time around four hours or so, and some patience to get it done.Make sure you have a good spring compressor. You should be able to rent one at your local auto parts store, and also make sure you're familiar with how to use it and that you get these springs set in their homes correctly. And to show you exactly how to get all this done, let's head over to the install bay now, and we'll walk you through it step-by-step.Man 1: Tools used for this installation, 3/8 electric impact gun, 18-millimeter wrench, 20-millimeter to 22-millimeter box head wrench, Phillips screwdriver, 15-millimeter, 18-millimeter, and 21-millimeter 1/2-inch drive sockets, 8-millimeter, 13-millimeter, and 18-millimeter 3/8 drive sockets, 18-millimeter flex socket, 15-millimeter flex socket, hammer, 3/8 drive swivel, 1/2-inch drive swivel, 6-inch, 3/8 extension, 6-inch, 1/2-inch drive extension, and 1/2-inch impact gun. Hey, guys, I'm gonna walk you through the install of our lowering springs on our 2013 Challenger. But first, what we're gonna do is watch a short video of how to remove our struts, and then we'll jump right back into the install.Man 2: First up, we're gonna get our wheels outta the way, our factory log nuts here are 22 millimeters so I got my impact gun. I'm using air tools for this, but if you don't have air tools, of course, a lug wrench works just as well. This is just gonna make life a little easier. All right. Next step we're gonna disconnect some of the ABS lines here, so we don't put too much stress on them as we remove some suspension components. Now, these are just rubber. Just gonna pull straight off on that guy. There's two more clips on your brake lines as well. We're just gonna disconnect those to give it a little bit more slack.Next up, we're gonna disconnect our sway bar end link from the strut body. Now, this is a 21-millimeter nut. Now, using air tool it can be a little easier, but if you're using an impact gun, it might start spinning the bearing, in which case you want to be able to hold onto the backside with something to keep it from spinning. We got it. All right. So, now you can pull the sway bar end link out of the strut body. And I like to just put that nut back on just to keep it safe, you know, so we don't lose it. What I just did was I put a pry bar right on the other side of the spacer to put a little tension on it as I took it off to keep it from spinning.All right. Next up, we're gonna tackle the nut holding on our upper control arm to the knuckle itself. Now, this is an 18-millimeter nut. And what we're gonna do is use a swivel socket on my impact gun or you can use a ratcheting wrench, that'll work as well. We're gonna work this guy off. It might also be a good idea to put a pry bar on the spring and pry down on it so it doesn't shoot off. All right. We're gonna keep this on a couple of threads just to make sure we can disconnect these two without it shooting off. So, just put the nut on a couple of threads. So, now I'm gonna pry up to disconnect the ball joint here.So, now we can pry back down, take that nut off and work this off easily. All right. Just guide the knuckle back down and I'm just gonna thread the nut back on so we don't lose it. All right. Use that same 18-millimeter socket and we're gonna remove the bolt holding on at the factory strut to the bottom control arm here, the lower control arm. Now, that the nut is already on the strut body, so we don't need a wrench on the other side, but I am gonna keep my hand here to keep it from popping off too quickly. There we go.All right. Next up, we're under the hood, because we have to remove the three nuts holding on the top of the strut tower. Now, I'm gonna twist off this cap here and I'm gonna set that right onto our cowl there. Now, that will expose the back two there. These are 13 millimeters. So, grab your impact gun and your socket and get those three off. All right. And now as you remove the third one, the strut's gonna fall straight through, so you wanna have a hand on it to get it off. All right. Now that you have a hand on it, you can push down on the suspension assembly there to pull the strut away from the lower control arm and then off of the vehicle.Man 2: So, now we got our strut out of our vehicle. First thing we're gonna do is bring it over here to our spring compressor. And if you're at home, you don't have a spring compressor, you wanna use a clamshell to get this loose. You can do it. Just be careful. There's a lot of pressure here with this spring compressed. And when you compress it, it even gets worse. So, I don't want nobody getting hurt. So, what I'm gonna do is I have it all set up in my spring compressor. I'm going to just turn our spring compressor down like this, and we're pretty much gonna get the strut loose like that. Now we'll get our tools and we'll remove our nut and drop our strut out.So, now I'm gonna take my 18-millimeter. I'm gonna hold my nut like that, and I'm gonna grab my impact gun with my 8-millimeter, and I'm gonna loosen this nut up and pull and drop this strut out. The reason I'm doing this is because usually, the shaft spins. Sometimes you get lucky, the nut will come off. In this case, it's gonna spin. I've done it a couple of times so I'm just gonna drop it down through, and I'm just gonna hold it with my foot, I'm gonna take our nut off and just remove our strut.So, now we're gonna remove our top part here and remove our old spring. We're gonna reuse this onto our new coil spring. You're gonna wanna just make sure that you put the bigger part goes towards the top. You're gonna slide this in place. And then you're gonna find a part here where it seats with the spring like that. Now, we'll put it back into our strut compressor and compress it. So, now we have it all back together, we have it in our strut compressor.Now, if you had, like I said, if you have your clamshells, you're gonna wanna put them around it here and then compress this. I'm gonna compress this like this. I'm gonna get it down to a point where I can try to put our strut back up inside. I'm getting old. So, I gotta get down on my knees. All right. And once we have that in place, I'm gonna start my nut up top again. Now, on the bottom groove here, you're gonna see this is where the coil spring is gonna sit down here in the bottom. There's a little indent in the rubber.So, you're gonna wanna make sure you have those lined up. So, what I'm gonna do is take my 18-millimeter wrench again, and my 8-millimeter socket, and I'm gonna run it up in. And I'm gonna get it to a point and then just tighten it like that. Now, when you're releasing it, that's when you're gonna wanna line this up. I'm gonna get it right there because it's lined up with our groove, release the coil spring so it falls right down into that little pocket and that's our spring installed onto our strut.So, now we got our coil spring onto our strut. What we're gonna do is assemble and put back in our strut assembly. How I'm gonna do that is I'm gonna take the strut assembly, stick it up in, put it up inside here. I'm gonna take one of my 13-millimeter bolts or nuts, and I'm gonna start it up top here and get it started. Then we'll get it in place in the bottom.And now, once I have it in place like that, I'm just gonna hold it in place exactly like that. That nut up top there that'll hold it in place, so it won't move around. So, now I'm gonna get the bottom lined up and you're gonna be able to turn your strut and get it in place and we'll start our long bolt. And so, now that we have that, what I'm gonna do is just push up on our spindle, pop that into place and we'll get the nuts started on that and we'll start tightening everything up.So, now we're gonna just put our spindle in place, get our control arm, and now we'll start our nut. Next, we'll start tightening everything up. So, now I'm gonna take my 18-millimeter, tighten our ball joint up. Next, we'll tighten the bottom strut bolt up. So, next, I'm gonna take my 18-millimeter on my 1/2-inch impact gun, tighten our lower strut bolt up. And once we have that done, we're gonna reinstall our sway bar here. Put that through, put the nut on that. And I'm gonna take my 1/2-inch impact gun, my 21-millimeter, hold it in place, tighten that up. Now we'll go up top and tighten the strut up underneath the hood.So, now I'm gonna finish putting back on our 13-millimeter nuts, and then I'm gonna take my 13-millimeter on my 3/8 drive electric gun and tighten these up. So, now you're gonna wanna repeat this whole same uninstall and install procedure on the other side.Hey, guys. Now that we have our front together, we're gonna go back to our rear here. Now, we're gonna jump to a quick uninstall video of dissembling the rear and getting the coil springs out. Now, in this video, we also installed shocks on this car, which we're not gonna do here. We're just gonna remove the lower shock bolt to drop it all down. So, when you watch the video, just keep that in mind that you do not have to take the shocks off.Man 2: All right. First step here for the rear of course is gonna be to get the wheel out of the way, switch back over to a 22-millimeter socket to get our factory lugs off. All right. Now, the top of the shock body is connected to the body of the vehicle here with these two 16-millimeter bolts, I'm gonna use a swivel socket on these and get them off.All right. The next step here is actually a little bit different. We have to remove the two hanger brackets from the frame here in order to drop our driver's side exhaust down a little bit. The reason we're doing this is because the bolt holding on the lower control arm there that we have to remove to decompress our spring doesn't have enough clearance to come out with the exhaust pipe.So, we're gonna lower it down. I'm gonna use my 13-millimeter swivel socket, which I recommend, along with an extension to get these two bolts off the frame. All right. Now, I'm gonna keep my fist right here on the muffler so it doesn't drop down on me and we can slowly lower it. All right. So, I'm gonna bring this guy down. The muffler's gonna come out of the bumper there. All right.And now it's low enough, we have enough clearance for the bolt. All right. So, now that we have enough clearance for that bolt, the next step is to support the lower control arm so that when we remove the bolt, it's holding the tension on the spring so we can lower it down slowly and safely. I'm gonna use a pole jack here since we're on a lift, but if you're working on the ground, a hydraulic jack does the trick as well. I'm gonna put that right up here and I'm gonna put that jack tension on the lower control arm.So, now when we lower it down, it's gonna be nice and even, and come down safely. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket on the bolt head and an 18-wrench on the nut on the other side. All right. Next step, we have this taken care of, what we're gonna do is slowly start lowering our pole jack down to relieve the tension from the spring to take it out safely. You definitely wanna do this slow.If you're working on the ground with a hydraulic jack, make sure you're relieving that as slow as possible. And once you start being able to wiggle it, the tension's not as strong. So, we're just gonna keep going down until the spring is loose, which you can see it is. Just bring it down enough that you can get it out. So, here we can lift our spring out and set that aside and then work on our shock.Man 1: So, now that we got our spring out and we got our control arm down, I'm gonna show you how to put your cup from the upper part up here onto your coil spring. You're gonna notice that it has a groove in it. So, we're just gonna stick this back on the new spring, and I'm gonna put it in just like that. And it's gonna sit into a lock inside here. You're gonna see there's an indent for this to go in.Now, you're gonna wanna remember when you put your coil spring on that you have the compressed part to the top, the other part to the bottom. Now, inside in the coil spring, there is another indent down in here, which when you go to put this in, you're gonna notice that your bottom coil here is gonna fit in that place.So, now we'll go and we'll stick it up inside and I'll show you how it sets into place. So, now that we have our boot in place here, I'm gonna take our coil spring, set it up inside here. And again, like I said, you're going to turn the coil spring like this when it's down into the bottom pocket here, and then you'll feel it stop when it hits the...right there. So, now it's set into place. It's locked into that groove down in the bottom, just like the top. And with that, I'm just gonna raise the lower control arm back up, make sure it slides over top of the nob up top there.And once we get that to a certain point right around there, now we're going to move our shock. Like I said before previously, we only had to remove the lower shock bolt to get this down enough, to get the coil spring out. In the video, previously we removed and put a new shock on, this one we're not doing it. We're just installing the coil spring. So, we'll get our shock in place, get our shock bolt started.And then we will compress our spring up into place and put our control arm bolt in. So, now we're gonna reinstall our lower shock bolt, I kind of have it lined up here. I didn't go up all the way yet. We'll just wiggle that in place, get it to pop through and I'll screw it in. I'm gonna put the nut on the other side and we'll tighten that up later.Next, we'll get our lower control arm bolt back in. Now that we have our lower shock bolt in, I'm gonna install our lower control arm bolt. I'm gonna raise it up with my jack. If you're at home, you're in your driveway, you can use a jack, just make sure you have the car supported with jack stands. I'm gonna raise this up, get it in place, put the bolt in. I'm gonna use my Phillips screwdriver on the backside just to line the hole up when I get it close.So, I'm just gonna raise this up. Once I get it close, I'm gonna take my Phillips screwdriver, just pull where it needs to go. Now that I have it that far, I'm gonna take the gun and run it in the rest of the way. So, now I'm gonna take my 15-millimeter on my 3/8 gun and run this in. Once I get it to that point, I'm gonna put my nut on the backside, take my 18-millimeter wrench and hold it and tighten it up with our 15-millimeter on our 3/8 gun. Next, we'll tighten our lower shock bolt.I'm gonna take my 18-millimeter wrench, my 15-millimeter on my gun, tighten this up. Now that we have those tight, I'm gonna lower the jack out from underneath it. And we will reinstall our exhaust. So, now we're gonna reinstall our exhaust. I'm gonna take my 13-millimeter bolt that we took out with my 13-millimeter socket, an extension in my 3/8 gun. And I'm gonna reinstall this one and then we'll go back to get this one back here and put that one up in the place.Now we have that one done, we'll go back to here to this one. So, now we're gonna tighten our back one up. Same thing, 13-millimeter socket with our impact done, take our bolt, get it in place, tighten that one up. Now you're gonna wanna just repeat this whole uninstall and install procedure on the opposite side.Jake: That's gonna wrap it up for our review and install of the D2 Racing Pro Series Lowering Springs for 2008 and newer Rear Wheel Drive Challengers without Nevomat Shocks. Thanks for watching, and remember for all things Challenger, be sure to stick with us right here at americanmuscle.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Pro Series Lowering Springs
      • Lowered Muscle Car Stance
      • Improves Overall Handling Performance
      • Progressive Spring Rate
      • Cold Wound and Shot Peened
      • Purple Powder Coated Finish
      • Clears Stock and Aftermarket Wheels and Tires
      • Professional Installation Recommended
      • One Year Manufacturer Warranty
      • Not Compatible with Nivomat Equipped Vehicles
      • Fits 2008-2023 RWD Challenger Models Without a Nivomat

      Description

      Upgrades the Vehicle’s Handling. Have an easier time making those fast corners with the help of D2 Racing’s Pro Series Lowering Springs. Unlike your Dodge Challenger’s stock springs, these aftermarket products are crafted to improve your car’s handling. D2 Racing’s Pro Series Lowering Springs are made to lower your car’s ride height, making it easier to achieve that sleeker yet aggressive Challenger appeal.

      Crafted From Highly Durable Tensile Wires. No matter where you take your Dodge Challenger, these springs can keep up with your unique driving lifestyle. Thanks to their high tensile wire construction, as well as their cold wound and shot peened features, they boast remarkable strength and durability.

      Progressive Design. Progressive springs (also known as variable rate springs) are designed to be more compliant when riding over rough and uneven surfaces like public roads. Progressive springs are engineered with a low starting spring rate that increases as the spring compresses. Variable rate compression allows for a smoother ride, while still providing good handling characteristics when pushed hard. This makes progressive rate springs a popular choice for daily street driven Challengers.

      Clears Stock and Aftermarket Wheels & Tires. These lowering springs were engineered to be compatible with your factory size wheels and tires, as well as AmericanMuscle's pre-configured wheel and tire combo kits (specific to your generation), to assure proper clearance with no rubbing issues.

      Professional Installation Recommended. Seeing that a spring compressor is required for installation of these Coil Springs, AmericanMuscle recommends professional installation. With the proper tools, installation can be completed in about three hours. Please note that an alignment is highly recommended after installation.

      One Year Manufacturer Warranty. Each D2 Racing Pro Series Lowering Springs kit sold comes with a 1-year manufacturer warranty. Please check out the manufacturer’s website for more information about the warranty’s terms and conditions.

      Application. These D2 Racing Pro Series Lowering Springs are designed to fit 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger RWD models not equipped with the Nivomat Suspension System.

      Fitment:

      Details

      D2 Racing D-SP-DO-01-2

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Lowering Springs
      • (2) Rear Lowering Springs
      4.8

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