(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Hey, guys, it's Joe from AmericanMuscle. And today, we're gonna be taking a closer look at the Eibach anti-roll front and rear sway bars, tubular, fitting all '08 and newer Challengers, excluding the 392s, Demons, Hellcats, and Scat Pack cars. Now, this is gonna be a great option for any Challenger owner out there looking to get a name brand set of sway bars that's going to reduce body roll and, therefore, improve handling in all situations that your Challenger is going to be in.So, what do we have going on here with the Eibach's? Well, first things first, let's dive into what these are made out of, then we'll go into some of the features, and a little bit later on, we'll show you how to get these installed. These are made out of cold-form aircraft-grade steel. They feature that awesome, classic Eibach red powder coating on there. These are going to be just as strong as a solid bar, and at the same time, keep the weight nice and low by being hollow. These are going to be two-way adjustable, so you can really dial in exactly how you want these to feel. You can go with the one further toward the front for a little bit softer of a sway bar, and the one more toward the rear for a little bit stiffer of a sway bar. And nut adjustability is on both front and rear bars as well. This kit also includes all the bushings and grease needed in order to get these installed.Now, this is sold as a kit, so that's going to include both the front and rear sway bar and, like I said earlier, bushings and the grease you need. Now, the tubular version is gonna be a little bit more expensive, right around 440 bucks. You can pick up the solid version for around $400 if you were looking to save a little, and you can buy this piecemeal if you wanted to build this up over time.Now, with that said, the rear is a little bit tough to take apart, and while we're in there, I would highly recommend going with a set of at least lowering springs, shocks and struts, if you do have the money. Coilovers, if you really got the money, they're gonna make the biggest difference for your suspension. These are definitely gonna help really dial out some of the roll on an otherwise heavy car, but it's gonna be easier. If you plan to do that full suspension swap, do it now, all in one shot, rather than taking this back apart and putting it back together.Now, the rear, like I said, it's a little bit tough, and for that, I'm gonna give this a three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. There's no cutting or modifications required to get this installed, however, it is a little bit involved, it's gonna be a test of the tool box. At most, I think this will take you about five to six hours to get completely wrapped up. So, without any further ado, I'm gonna show you what tools you need, and then we'll install some sway bars.Tools required for this install are going to include an impact or two, ratchets, an exhaust hanger removal tool, extensions, sockets ranging from 8 millimeters all the way up to 18 millimeters, a U-joint, rust penetrant like PB B'laster is a great idea, wrenches ranging from 15 millimeters all the way up to 21 millimeters, some safety glasses also a great idea, a pry bar, and not included in this shot will be a floor jack. If you're on a lift, bring some pole jacks.So, we're gonna start our install up at the front, basically, because this is gonna be exponentially easier than the rear, but stick with me, like I said, we're gonna make it through this. So, first things first, we're going to disconnect our sway bar from the end links. We're gonna be turning the nut with a 21-millimeter wrench, and we're gonna be holding the ball joints still with a 10-millimeter socket. We're gonna do that for both sides. And we can pull off nut and washer, pull the end link out of the sway bar, and again, we're gonna go over to the other side and do the same thing.Now, we can focus on our bushing brackets, this is gonna be pretty simple. First things first, we gotta get that heat shield off, that's held on with two 8-millimeter bolts, one on either side. With that out of the way, we have access to these two 15s right here, that's gonna be the same exact thing, take a 15-millimeter socket on the ratchet, we're just gonna break those loose. Now, we can jump over and do the same thing for the other side. Now, with all that removed, all we have to do is grab our bushing bracket, which is just about to fall off. Same thing goes for the sway bar itself.So, now that we have our factory sway bar of our Challenger, I figure now would be the perfect time to put the two on the table next to each other and point out some key differences here. Now, the first and most obvious one, it's gonna be the finish. Our new front sway bar has that nice classic Eibach red on there, but it has some functionality as well. We're actually upping the diameter of this sway bar. Factory is about 1.2 inches, this is gonna be about 1.4 inches, so that's gonna give you a little bit more torsional strength on the Eibach, therefore, preventing roll. Other than that, there's really not a big difference between these two. You do have two holes drilled on either side here for a little bit of adjustment if you do wanna loosen this up a little bit later on down the line. But other than that, it's a sway bar, it's a little bit thicker, a little bit more torsionally tough, got that red finish, and a little bit of adjustment.Now, we do have to do just a tiny bit of prep work before we head back to our Challenger with this. These bushings, they get installed on the outside of these rings here, but first, they do need to be lubricated with this grease, which does come in the kit. Now, obviously, we're also going to need our sway bar bushing brackets. Now we can head back to our Challenger.Now, we're just gonna take our sway bar and put it up into these rear brackets here. We did loose this side earlier, just make sure that's back in place before you do this. And just like so, and it's gonna sit right there. Now, we'll put the top bracket on and secure it with the factory 15s. Now, as we're doing this, a couple of things to note. This bushing, it's a little bit tough, attach a thread or two, we'll get the rest of this compressed as we tighten these down. Also, the exhaust is right here, don't burn the tops of your hands, wear gloves, make sure the car's cool before you do that. And now, we can just tighten them down, again, 15-millimeter socket. As per the usual, same thing for the other side. And after that, we're just gonna reinstall our heat shields using that factory hardware. And we'll hit the other side as well.So, now we have a bit of a choice to make here. There are two points to mount up your end link, one is a little bit further away, and one right here, that's gonna be a little bit closer to where the sway bar rotates, which is all the way back here. Now, the longer one, that's gonna be a little bit softer. You have a bigger lever arm to operate against the torsion of the sway bar. You can go with the one that's a little bit closer to this rotation point, that is going to be a shorter lever arm, and it's gonna fight a little bit more against the torsion in the sway bar. In our case, we're gonna bring that as close as possible to the rotation point right here, making this as stiff as possible, because race car. And again, 21 for the nut, 10 to the ball joint. We're gonna do the same exact thing for the other side, obviously.The sway bar in the rear, it's just on top of the subframe. So, that pretty much means we're gonna have to disassemble all of this stuff in the rear. Now, we're gonna try to make this a little bit easy on ourselves, just by unbolting this subframe and lifting the car away from it a couple inches. Hopefully, at that point we can get the sway bar out. If not, we're gonna have to disconnect some fuel lines, get a little bit dirty with the gasoline, same thing goes for the drive shaft. We're gonna try to skip that stuff for now and just get a little bit of room in there so we can pull out the sway bar. If not, we're gonna show you how to do that. But first things first, regardless, this exhaust is gonna have to go.Now, it does have a couple of hangers in the back here, don't worry about the rubber isolators. Take a 13-millimeter socket, loosen the hangers off of the Challenger, and then we're just gonna work our way back to the mufflers, we're gonna get those off as well. So, 13-millimeter socket on the extension, and it's gonna get up to this bolt here. And we're just gonna come back about a foot and do the same thing for this hanger bolt as well.Now, the next hanger right after the mufflers here, this one is welded on, so a little bit of pry bar work later to get that out, and it should be free. Now, I have that fancy exhaust hanger removal tool, that really helps you out with those. This clamp has a 15-millimeter nut. You'll loosen that up, slide that over, and then we can pull off the tailpipe.Now, our muffler is gonna have to come out as well, our drive shaft is gonna hit on the actual body of the muffler. You have an aftermarket exhaust, you might be able to get away with it. Same thing goes for the other side.Next, we're gonna have to unbolt this brake line bracket right here, along with a 10-millimeter bolt, which is all the way up here behind this fender liner. They give you a cutout here, but it doesn't really give you access to the bolt, which is a little bit strange. However, it is pretty coarse-threaded, and that means you can come up here with the tiny 10-millimeter on the racket, and a couple of cranks that should come loose, we're gonna do this for both sides. Now, that should...just put those in there. Now, once you release that hook, pull this down, you can see at the top. You should get a little bit more flex out of that brake line, that's exactly what we need. And here we are over on the other side, it's actually even a little bit tighter over here, but a small 10 should do the trick. It's all exactly where it landed, so we could unhook that bracket and pull it away from the Challenger.Now, we can do the top of our sway bar end link, 16-millimeter socket for the nut side, 15-millimeter socket for the bolt head. And you just gotta work that bolt out of there. We're gonna do the same thing over here on the driver side as well. Now, we're gonna remove our upper shock mount, two 16-millimeter bolts hold this on. U-joint helps, small extension will help you get to these. We're also gonna need to disconnect these two wheel speed sensors here. And to do that, just press on the red release tab, and then the release button, there you go, and do the same thing for this one. It can put up a little bit of a fight, so to the flathead is your friend.So, now we're ready to try unbolting our subframe. It's held on with four 18-millimeter bolts, one in each corner. As you can see, ours is supported by this table here, and a couple of wood blocks. So, once we have a disconnected, we're gonna lift the Challenger up just enough to get that factory sway bar out, and then we can get our new Eibach in.Now, if you don't have a lift like this one, which, let's face it, most of you guys probably don't, I'm sure you could get this done with a few jacks and wood blocks in the driveway. Now, these can be a little bit tough to get out, but we're not going to remove them all the way just yet. Just to make sure this subframe doesn't slide around anywhere, we're gonna leave these threaded in just a little bit. Now, we're gonna hit this front one. You are going to need an extension to get up through this plastic piece here.So, now we're just going to raise our Challenger away from the subframe. One thing to note is, when you separate the body from the subframe, the springs are gonna wanna fall out, so don't be surprised, have a good hand on your springs before you lift your Challenger.All right. So, everything went pretty smooth. We got about a solid five to six inches out of travel. As far as the subframe goes, that should be enough for you. We're gonna try to get the air ratchet in there, I know I can get this one in the front, however, this one in the back, that's probably gonna need the ratcheting wrench. Then we can take that bushing bracket off, hit the other side, and hopefully start to fish this guy out. On the driver side, you can get both of them with the air ratchet, plenty of room in there, enough to land a 747, honestly. So, now, bracket can go, and we start the removal.So, now that we have our factory stuff of our Challenger, again, figured I'd stop down, do a little bit of a compare between our old factory sway bar and our new Eibach. Starting off with the most obvious thing, again, our new rear sway bar sporting that classic Eibach red, it's a good look when you do see the sway bar. Again, I have to admit that this is really really tucked up on top of the subframe, so it's rare you'll ever see it, but it is red, so that's a nice touch.One thing I found interesting is, Eibach is actually about a tenth of an inch thinner in diameter when comparing it to the stock one. But because we're going to that adjustable sway bar, and we're shortening that lever arm relative to where this is gonna rotate on our Challenger, that should lead to more torsional strength in this bar here. At least that shorter lever arm out there on the end shouldn't make this a little bit harder to twist, and therefore dialing out any sway with the sway bar. Other than that, we do need to do just a little bit of prep work before this goes back onto our Challenger, we're gonna be installing these bushings.One thing to note about these is, you do wanna make sure that this opens up toward the rear of the Challenger. So, we're gonna install those that way. We're gonna grease them up first and then transfer over our bushing mounting brackets. And now, we're just gonna put this bad boy in, feed it around the brake lines like so. Now, we're just gonna strap the bushing down with the bushing bracket, we're gonna use the two factory 15-millimeter bolts. And we're gonna do the same thing for the other side as well.Now, we're just gonna very, very slowly lower our Challenger to the subframe. And as we're doing this, we're just gonna make sure that the coils are not binding up, and get seated properly, same thing with the shocks once we get there. We want the tops of these to line up with their bolt holes, obviously. And then once we're close enough, we're gonna get those bolts through to re-attach our subframe.Now, once we get the two close enough, we can come in with our subframe bolts and bolt the two back together. One thing to note here is, the longer bolts are gonna be for the rear portion of the subframe. And then we're gonna do the same thing over here on the passenger side. And then to tighten these down, we're probably gonna jump around a bit, you wanna make sure this comes up nice and evenly, and exactly where it was sitting before we unbolted it. We're gonna use an 18-millimeter socket to tighten these back down.Now, after that, it's just gonna be rebuilding the rear end of our Challenger here. So, we're gonna start by plugging in these electronics that we undid earlier. We're just gonna wait until those clicking, and then we can push that red release tab back to where it was.Now, we can rebolt down our shock using that factory 16-millimeter hardware. One thing to note, you might have to press off on the lower control arm a little bit with a jack to get the shock all the way up to where it needs to be to get these threaded in. We're gonna do the same thing for the other side. After the shock, we're gonna reinstall our sway bar. And if you remember, we're gonna go to the tighter option, and the bolt head was on this side, 15-millimeter bolt head, 16-millimeter nut, we're gonna tighten those down. We're gonna do the same thing over here on the other side. And it's just a little too tight for the air gun, so I'm gonna hop over to the ratcheting wrench.So, now we're gonna get our brake line bracket back into place. Again, it's behind this fender liner, we're gonna use the factory 10-millimeter bolt, like so. And same thing goes over here on the other side. After that, we're gonna put our exhaust back together, we're gonna start with the mufflers. And again, 15-millimeter socket to tighten down those clamps. Now, we're gonna hit the other side and do the same exact thing, just like the rest of is video. Not that that's a bad thing, it makes everything pretty simple. Now, we're gonna do the tailpipes right into the back of the muffler. You do wanna make sure those make it into that rubber hanger isolator up there. So, I'm gonna line that up, and rotate that into place, just like so.Now, we're gonna reattach our exhaust hangers, 13-millimeter bolt, there's 2 of these on each tailpipe, and then we're gonna tighten the clamps up by the muffler to lock them in. And we're gonna hit the same thing over here on the driver side as well.Now, that's gonna do it for the install. There's two things left for us to do, A, put the wheels back on, and B, take this Challenger for a nice alignment. Well, that's gonna do it for me, it's also gonna do it for the Eibach anti-roll front and rear sway bars, tubular, fitting all '08 and newer Challengers, excluding the 392s, Demons, Hellcats, and Scat Packs. As always, thank you guys so much for watching. Subscribe for more like this one. Keep it right here at AmericanMuscle for all things Challenger.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Decreased Body Roll. For a more comfortable and smoother ride, upgrade to these Tubular Eibach Anti-Roll Front and Rear Sway Bars. These sway bars help improve your vehicle’s suspension stiffness, resulting in a decreased body roll. By upgrading to this kit, you can also make faster and sharper turns, thanks to its higher level of tensile strength.
Two-Way Adjustable Sway Bars. These Tubular Eibach Anti-Roll Front and Rear Sway Bars give you the ability to fine-tune your handling since they are adjustable. These sways bars can be adjusted in two mounting positions to suit your driving style.
High-Quality Construction. Manufactured from cold-formed, aircraft grade steel, these Tubular Eibach Anti-Roll Front and Rear Sway Bars are guaranteed to be of the highest quality. Built for long-term use, these won’t easily rust and break, thanks to its red powder coat finish.
Urethane Bushings. This kit is also packaged with greaseable, urethane bushings. These are guaranteed to provide your vehicle a satisfying handling performance since these are designed to decrease your vehicle’s NVH.
Bolt-On Installation. Anyone with mechanical expertise can easily install this product since it comes with a bolt-on design, however the rear subframe needs to be dropped for installation. If you don’t have any mechanical expertise, please ask a professional mechanic for help.
Limited Million-Mile Warranty. This anti-roll kit is covered by a limited million-mile warranty. If your purchased product has any manufacturer defects, please contact customer service to learn about the warranty claim process.
Application. These Tubular Front and Rear Eibach Anti-Roll Sway Bars are created to fit 2008-2014 SRT8, 2009-2020 R/T and V6 Dodge Challenger models.
Fitment: 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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