(approx) 2 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Justin: If you're looking for a set of quality, non-adjustable dampers to replace the high mileage or blown out stockers on your '11 to '14 GT, or V6, the Eibach Pro-Dampers would be an excellent choice. Now the Eibach kit that we have here will include two struts for the front along with two shocks for the rear. They are valved to play nicely with the Eibach Sport lines were Pro kit springs but, can be used with any aftermarket spring of your choosing. Your price point will be right around 400 bucks and the install will get a soft three out of three wrenches according to the site here. But be sure to hang out towards the end of this video and we'll show you how to get them installed.So I would argue that Eibach is without a doubt one of the most well-known and trusted names in the suspension game, and have built that reputation by producing some high-quality parts, to make your Mustang or even your minivan handle a little bit better. Now the Pro-Damper shocks and struts make up one-third of Eibach very popular Sport System Plus, in addition to the Pro System Plus complete suspension packages, which do consist of these dampers here, in addition to a set of the springs and sway bars also from Eibach. And ultimately that is going to be the best way to drastically improve both the handling and all-around performance of your S197 as those three parts alone will play a major role in how your car rides and also handles.But now maybe you're in the process of just piecing together your own suspension setup, and maybe you've already grabbed a set of springs, or you're just looking to replace the high mileage factory components. The Eibach dampers, again, will be a great addition and will still be valuable even if you're just building your suspension one component at a time. But again, Eibach will tell you that these dampers are designed to work best when paired up with either the Sport line or Pro kits springs from Eibach, as the dampers are better suited to handle the lower right height and firmer spring rate of those Eibach springs. Now what I will say is that the drop and spring rates are for the most part going to be very similar from spring to spring here on the site.So ultimately, I would feel very comfortable with pairing these things up with just about any aftermarket spring out there. But aside from these things being valved a little bit better to handle that lower ride height and firmer spring rate of those aftermarket springs, the Eibach dampers will also help keep that ride a little bit more controlled once installed, helping to reduce the body roll and contributing to a slightly firmer, sportier ride. Now, Eibach doesn't disclose a ton of specs here on their dampers such as piston size and things like that, but they are, of course, non-adjustable, so keep that in mind and they will back them with a two-year warranty just in the event that you run into any issues.But now let's get into that installation as promised, and again, the site did go full three out of the three wrenches on the difficulty meter here, guys, soft three at that which I feel is being a bit firm. But either way, a couple of hours from start to finish and to give you a better idea of how it's all going to go down, here is a detailed walkthrough along with a tool breakdown. Tony: Tools used for this installation are as follows: a good ratchet or impact gun, a good set of sockets ranging from 10-millimeter all the way up to 22-millimeter, a couple of wrenches 17 and 18, an extension and a swivel, a good bungee cord, and a hammer. All right, now we gotta start out here in our trunk disconnecting our shocks from our upper shock towers.Now they're connected inside the trunk just behind the carpeting. So I'm gonna peel that back and you'll discover the upper shock bolts. Now, they're gonna be a 15-millimeter wrench. You might need to put a smaller wrench on the top of the actual shock itself to hold it still from spinning. Sometimes you can get away with just putting a socket on it and hitting with an impact gun and it can come off. Now, I know you're thinking at home, well, if you disconnect the shocks, won't the whole rear drop out? No. We're gonna leave it suspended for now, hanging off of our sway bar end links. Then I'm gonna lift it up, put a pole jack underneath of it, disconnect my end links, swing my sway bar down, and get my shock out.Now if you're doing this at home on the floor with floor jacks and jack stands, you can go ahead and position a floor jack underneath your rear right now. Now let's get in here and get that bolt out. All right, now we got our car in the air and our rear differential supported on our pole jacks. We're gonna go ahead and get our sway bar end links disconnected. Now you're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket, the same one you used to take off your upper shock bolt and we're just going to swing that down and out of the way, that'll give us the clearance to get to our lower one. Now make sure you catch your capture nut that comes off the back. It's got a tab on the end of it, that way you don't need to use a wrench on it. You can do this with one tool. All right, now you will need to disconnect both passenger and driver side end links to swing your sway bar out of place.Once you get both bolts out, just swing it down. And now we can clear getting our lower bolt out of our shock. Now with a 15-millimeter socket, the same one we've been using the whole time, we're going to go ahead and get this one out. Now that we have our shock out, we can go ahead and get our new one installed. Now to get our new shock installed, first we're gonna have to go ahead and get our large washer on top and our bushing, they just slide down right over the top of our shock. Slide it up into place. Reinstall your lower bolt. Don't forget your capture nut. Always get your hardware started by hand. And with that same 15-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten it down. Now we can go ahead flip our sway bar up into place, get our bolt reinstalled.Also, once again, don't forget your capture nut on the back. And with that same 15, go ahead and tighten that down. Now before you get your sway bar back up into place and tightened down, you do want to make sure that you change both rear shocks beforehand because once you do one side, if you flip your sway bar up, well, then you're not gonna be able to get to your lower bolt on the other side. Now I know you just seen me do the one, but make sure you do them both at the same time. All the same exact steps go for the opposite side. All right, now to finish up the rear of our installation, you're gonna put your upper bushing and washer on and lock it down with the new hardware that comes in the kit. Now, this is gonna be a 14-millimeter to tighten this up. All right, now that ties up everything in the rear. We're going to go ahead and move to the front.All right, we're gonna begin the install of our new front strut by removing the original one. Now to do that, we're gonna have to disconnect our brake line from the back of the strut using a 10-millimeter socket. There's a little bracket just on the back. You remove the one bolt. It disconnects the line. Now we're going to move up to our sway bar end link, and we're gonna put a 18-millimeter socket on the front of it to remove the nut. And then right behind the bracket itself, we're gonna put a 17-millimeter wrench to hold the stud that comes out of our sway bar end link to keep it from spinning as we're removing the nut. After that, we'll remove our two lower bolts that attach our strut to our steering knuckle. Now they're going to be a 21-millimeter socket on the nut side and an 18-millimeter socket on the bolt side.Once we have all that disconnected and we support our steering knuckle and brake rotor assembly, we're going to lower the car back down and remove the three bolts that contain the top of our strut mount to our strut tower. Now with your 17-millimeter wrench, put it on the back, 18-millimeter socket on the front. Now to remove the bolts from your lower strut mount, you actually do need to tap them out with a hammer. They're knurled in and this way they don't spin. When they get a little worn out, sometimes they do spin. These are still fresh in there. They've never been apart before, so we're gonna use a hammer to tap them out. Now you don't want to just go wailing on them. You wanna take your time and hit them with precision because you definitely don't want to mess up your threads.Now with a 13-millimeter socket, we're going to remove the retaining bolts that hold the top of our strut to the top of our strut tower. Now you wanna make sure you keep a good hold on your strut when removing these because you don't want it to just drop out of the bottom. It can cause damage to maybe a brake line or it could hit you in the foot and, well, that's not going to feel very good. All right, with our strut assembly out of our vehicle, we're over here at our spring compressor. Now if you don't have one of these wall-mounted ones, it's not a big deal. You can go rent a different style spring compressor from the local parts store or you can even take your struts down the street to a local shop and have them swap them out for you.But one thing I can definitely tell you is do not disassemble your strut and spring assembly without a spring compressor. These springs hold a lot of tension inside that strut, and it can be extremely dangerous for you to break it down without a compressor. Now just follow the instructions for the compressor that you have, compress the spring down, and take it apart. We're gonna use a 21-millimeter here on the top to take our struck cap off. With a 21-millimeter, keep a good hand on your strut. Now with our new strut assembly, we're going to take our dust shield and our new bump stop and just slide them down over top. Now with a 22-millimeter, we're going to tighten these up. Now we're ready to go ahead and get this reinstalled in our car.All right, now to reinstall our strut is the exact opposite of our disassembly. So we're going to slide this back up into our shock tower, tighten down those upper bolts, lift the vehicle back up, and then reassemble our steering components. We can go ahead and get our lower strut bolts in. Now when you tighten up the nuts on your lower mounts, they will pull the bolts all the way through and lock the knurls back in place. And those just tighten down with our 21-millimeter. Next, we can go ahead and get our brake line bracket reinstalled with our 10-millimeter bolt and socket on our ratchet.All right, and the last part that we have to install with our new struts is get our end link reinstalled. Just go ahead and slide it in the bracket. Get the nut on there and we'll tighten that down with our 18-millimeter socket and our 17-millimeter wrench. Now that ties up our installation of our new performance struts on our Mustang. 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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 2011 2012 2013 2014 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box
|Placement:||Struts - Front |
Shocks - Rear
|Year:||2011-2014||Model:||V6 and GT|
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