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K&N Blackhawk Cold Air Intake (11-23 6.4L HEMI Challenger w/o Shaker Hood)

Item CH1731
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Market Price $451.99 You Save 12% ($52.00)
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$399.99 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey guys, Adam here with Today we're taking a closer look at and installing the K&N Blackhawk Cold Air Intake available for the 2011 and newer 6.4 liter Hemi Equipped Challengers without the Shaker Hood. You should be checking this out if you're looking to ditch your factory airbox for a cold air intake from the aftermarket category, that's gonna help your engine breathe a lot better, give you a small bump in horsepower and torque as well as throttle response and acceleration and give you an upgraded dry filter with a lot of pros. This particular kit here comes in right around 300 bucks putting it a little bit toward the premium side of the category but it's not all that expensive. My opinion, it's a very worthwhile investment for your engine that does not require a tune to get installed and run properly. Now, this particular one being the Blackhawk option from K&N has a black conical multi-layer cotton gauze dry filter.That, compared to your factory paper element filter, is gonna do a lot better job pulling in that cold air from the outside of the vehicle and with the heat shield and the combined weatherstripping is going to block out some of the excess engine heat by trapping it under the hood. Now, this particular one here is washable and reusable, which means you can pop it off, wash it, throw it right back on with no need to re-oil it, being a dry filter makes maintenance a lot easier. Now, we'll take a closer look at this compared to the factory option and just a little bit. Tubing welded aluminum, you'll be able to use some of the new hoses included in the kit to attach that tubing transfer of your MAF sensor and whatnot. We have extremely high-quality silicon couplers, those will attach to your throttle body and the intake here. Now, being a no tune required right out of the box it bolts right up. You don't have to worry about taking it to your shop to get tuned or picking up an aftermarket one like Bama and SCT. With all this in mind, install one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Anybody can tackle this job in the driveway at home. It'll take you about an hour from start to finish. I'll show you guys every single step of the process starting with the uninstall. Let's get to it.Tools used in this install include an impact gun, 8-millimeter deep socket, 10-millimeter deep socket, 5/32 hex socket or Allen key, 10 and 15-millimeter wrenches, flathead screwdriver, pair of snips, thread tape, a box cutter and measuring tape. For the first step of the uninstall here is to pop off our valve cover. Now, the valve cover on the driver side is the one you wanna pop off, passengers not in the way. In order to do that, we're literally just gonna pull up on both sides and it'll pop right out of place. Set that aside. Second step, we're gonna disconnect the harness on our factory MAF sensor. I'm just gonna pinch, pull straight back and just set that aside down there. From here we're gonna take our breather hose and just disconnect it from there. We can leave it on the other end since this whole thing is gonna get disconnected anyway, we'll just pull it out one piece.Next step grab an 8-millimeter socket or you can use a flathead screwdriver and we're gonna loosen up the clamp connecting the factory tubing to the throttle body. Once you have that loosened up, you can actually just rotate this clamp over here and get it completely disconnected from this knob. The retainer bolt holding the factory airbox to the frame here is an 8-millimeter bolt. Can pull that off, and just set that aside. Now, disconnecting this from your throttle body might be a little tight. If your airbox has never been removed, it can be pretty stuck on there. So, if you need to you can grab a flathead and just gently pry up on this. For us, we're gonna pull straight back. You're gonna wanna lift up on the entire assembly. So, we got our factory airbox off of our 2018 6.4 on the table next to our Blackhawk option from K&N. Now, I wanted to take this time to point out a lot of the differences between the two kits and what makes this particular kit that big of an upgrade compared to the stock option. Now, taking the liberty removing the three screws that contain the factory filter in the airbox, so we're gonna disconnect that top shell to expose the factory filter.Now, this pops right out and you can really see the difference. This Is the factory air filter from Dodge. This is now your upgraded option from K&N. Huge difference between the two. Now, our car only has about 3,000-4,000 miles on it, and you can see how dirty it's getting. Might not be as noticeable on camera but up close and personal, you can see all the dirt wedged in between each filter. Now, this is a paper element filter. This is your conical multi-layer cotton gauze filter from K&N. The conical shape gives you that 360-degree motion of airflow coming in. There's a lot more airflow potential with this design as opposed to the flat paper element. This is a dry filter, which is similar to the factory option. They're both dry filters, which means that they don't require oiling, which means less maintenance, which means that it's not gonna get clogged as much as the particles get filtered in. I will say though dry filters are a little bit better when it comes to guys in dry climate areas seeing a lot more dirt and air pollution in the air. So, guys out there on the West Coast that might be seeing that, they might gravitate more toward the dry filter because it won't clog up as much with the oiled stuff. Oil typically is known to do a slightly better job filtering because it has that oil to catch all the particles. But again, airflow can get a little bit clogged more often requiring more maintenance. Now, I know that might sound confusing, just know both dry and oiled filters come within a 1% difference of each other. So ultimately, you can expect a big gain in performance whichever route you go. But with this dry filter, know that you can reuse it, you just won't have to re-oil it. Now, the black option does come down to personal preference, right? It blends in a little bit more with the black aluminum tubing and some of the black accents under the hood. So, that's personal preference, but their Blackhawk option is their dry filter, which makes it a little bit better when it comes to filtering stuff out and not requiring as much maintenance. With it being reusable, you just pop it out, clean it, throw it right back in. Factory filters are not able to do that. They're not reusable. Once it gets too dirty, you can try to clean as much as it offers you can but you'll ultimately end up picking up a new one. So, this lasts a lot longer and you can save some money in the long run.Now, moving on to our tubing. This short piece of tubing here is welded aluminum, the hose fitting will go into this welded on section and your MAF sensor will go in there as well. So, that's a little bit better in my opinion when they're welded on, leaves less room for air leaks, you don't have to worry about more rubber grommets in the way. As far as the air fittings, we'll be able to attach those very simply in just a little bit. It's got this chrome-plated or aluminum plated, welded right on with the K&N name. I think that's really cool add some contrast to it. It also adds a little bit more detail to it as well, doesn't look as plain. Couplers. These are silicon couplers they have a really really good outer layer here. This is also gonna help for a leak-free finish. We've got our velocity stack built-in help streamline the airflow straight through the heat shield into the filter, and the heat shield, billet aluminum as well. This is also gonna come with weather stripping to make sure it seals up under the hood, and it's gonna block out some of the excess engine heat while keeping in a lot of that cold air pulled in. That's something that the cold air intake from the factory does pretty well. But the cold air intake from the factory doesn't do as good of a job pulling cold air in. It does a good job dropping out that engine heat but the cold air is lacking. So, big upgrade there, you'll see more gains and throttle response and acceleration all thanks to this filter and the way this is designed. So, we've got a couple of things we need to assemble here. We are gonna pop off our factory MAF sensor from this lid, and we'll transfer that over first. All right. Now in order to get our factory MAF sensor out of the stock airbox, you're gonna twist and pull straight back. It'll pull straight out, super simple.Transferring it right over to our tubing, there's two slots. The slot that has that puzzle piece shape on the inside is essentially gonna go for your MAF sensor. You don't need any grommets, anything like that. Keep that factory O-ring seal on the MAF sensor. You're gonna twist this into place, line up the shapes, give it a 90-degree return and it's locked in. All right. With that first step out of the way, I can set aside all of our factory components. We won't need them anymore. We're gonna start with the assembly of our K&N kit. All right. The next step here is to take our elbow fitting, this is gonna be for our breather hose connector. This is gonna go into the threaded hole welded on the side of our tubing. Now, what I recommend doing, this is heavily recommended to avoid any air leaks, is to grab some thread tape and wrap a small amount of thread tape around the threading on the elbow. Now, thread tape is really just like some sealant to make sure there isn't any air leaks. You're gonna cut a piece of that off. You're gonna lay it around the threading, wrap it all the way around, get it nice and neat. All right. Now when you're putting this on, the general rule of thumb is to have the thread tape go in the opposite direction so that when you're tightening it on, it's going with it instead of against it. That way, you don't have to worry about the tape undoing itself. Also, you don't have to go all the way down, you don't wanna strip the threads out. So, you just wanna go until it's hand tight, and once you get it on the vehicle we'll rotate it in the direction that we need it to be. And from here we're gonna move on and start adding some couplers to both sides. Next up, we're gonna take the coupler labeled 08497 along with a clamp and your 8-millimeter socket. This coupler is gonna go on the side that's going toward your throttle body. It has a larger end and the smaller end. The smaller one is the outlet, the larger one is the inlet. So, that's gonna go right on our tubing. You wanna put it about halfway down, leaving room for it to connect to our throttle body. All right. Once it's properly on there, grab your clamp, throw that over top.I like to make it so that this is the front and your clamp end is on the inside. That way it's not sticking out like a sore thumb. I think it makes the engine bay look a little cleaner. So, once you have that in place, you can tighten down that clamp. You wanna make sure that all the way around is properly securing the edge and isn't overlapping anything, that way it's very tight. Now, on the opposite end, we have a smaller clamp. I just like to put it in place just so we have it there, that I think should rotate down the same way. This is gonna go to the throttle body, we don't wanna tighten that down just yet. On the opposite end, now, when you're putting this in place, you wanna make sure that you're putting the tubing to the middle of the bubble here and then the air filter will meet it halfway. Before you do so, pop your clamp over the end, insert that over the tubing and push it about halfway in. Center your clamp where you need it to be, grab your 8-mil socket and tighten it down. Perfect. Again, I like to do the same thing for the other side, just put it in place. For the next part, we're gonna use our heat shield and our velocity stack. Now, this is gonna insert from the inside. The rounded portion is gonna be on the inside here where our filter is gonna be, this you're just gonna rotate until those holes line up with the holes drilled on the heat shield. Now, when you're installing this, you're gonna use the hex screws included in the kit along with the split and the flat washers. Split washer on first, flat washer on second. Rotate this so those threaded holes line up with the drilled holes on the heat shield and just tighten it in by hand a couple of threads. Do the same thing for both of them. Grab a 5/32 hex socket or Allen key and just putting them down. The next is gonna be our metal bracket. Now, you're gonna stand your heat shield up as if it was installed, this facing your throttle body. This bracket is gonna get installed right here. That's going to go to that retainer bolt that we removed originally in our uninstall by our front rad.Now, in order to install that, the order is going to be the bolt head, you're gonna have a flat washer on it, and it's gonna go through your bracket. On the inside is this quarter-inch spacer, then it's gonna go through to the opposite end with the nylon lock nut and the flat washer. Now, you can lay this down on its side, put the flat washer over the bolt, put the bolt through the bracket, spacer, and we're gonna insert this into our heat shield. On the opposite end, spacer, nylon lock nut. Now, when you tighten this down you wanna make sure the bracket is upright. Grab a 10-millimeter socket and wrench and tighten it down. Next up is gonna be our rubber grommet. Now, this is essentially gonna get attached to the bottom here and it's gonna retain the heat shield and keep it in place inside of our fender well. I'll show you guys that when we get to the install but we're gonna install this into [inaudible 00:12:55]. You're going to grab the flat washer, put it over this 15-millimeter bolt and put that through the hole. That's gonna get screwed into this rubber grommet from the inside. All right. You can now just grab a 15-millimeter wrench and just tighten that down. Next step is our weatherstripping. We're essentially gonna start from this corner worker way all the way around to the back end here. Now, with the weatherstripping, it's just gonna pretty much attach itself, you just need to push all the way around the edging. All right. Now once you get to the end, you can cut off the excess. We're gonna use our snips just get that excess off. All right. The next part we're gonna take our half-inch line and our three quarter inch line and we're gonna have to cut them. The half-inch line is a foot long, we're gonna cut it at 9-inches. So, grab your tape measure, line that up. It's about 9-inches right here. Grab your cutters. Perfect. Now, the three quarter one, we're gonna cut to two and a half inches, it's a 6-inch long tubing. So, two and a half inches is about here, this one's gonna be a little harder to cut. Next step, grab your connector and we're just gonna connect these two pieces of tubing. So, grab the two and a half-inch one, slide that over the larger section of your connector. A half-inch one is gonna go on the other end.Now, for the install, we're gonna grab our heat shield and we're gonna drop it into place on the inside of this bracket. That rubber grommet we installed to the inside is gonna go to the open hole on our fender wall, and this bracket is gonna go right above here and get bolted there. So, we're not gonna bolt this down just yet. What we're gonna do is take the factory bolt and just thread it by hand, we're not gonna tighten it down, just leave it loose, keep it in place. Next, we're gonna grab our tubing, attach it to the throttle body, feed it to the velocity stack, and then we'll tackle the air filter. All right. The tubing, again, we're gonna drop it down into place, attach that to our velocity stack, feed that over to our throttle body and connect it there. Now, in order to give us a little more room, I'm gonna disconnect this bolt here. Once you have that connected to the throttle body, grab your 8-mil socket and tighten down that clamp. Tighten down this clamp to our velocity stack. Now we can reinsert that bolt and grab our air filter. Make sure you have the largest clamp installed over the air filter. If you need too, you can loosen that clamp up so this is easier to install. Now, in our testing phase here, we noticed that the tubing that we cut here for our breather hose was too long for our application. Now, it all depends on what you have under your hood. If you need the amount of length that we had cut previously, you can go with that but ours needed to be a little shorter. So, I cut both of these a little bit shorter, just test it before you do so. Slide this over the factory port above the valve and then connect that to our elbow. Now, we can take our MAF sensor harness and reconnect that. Now, the last two steps, bolt down this 8-millimeter bolt, tighten it down, throw our valve cover back on it'll be good to go.Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my quick review and install for the K&N Blackhawk Cold Air Intake available for the '11 and newer 6.4 Hemi Equipped Challenger without the Shaker Hood. Ditch your factory airbox to pick up an aftermarket cold air with a dry filter, washable, reusable, no tune required. CARB certified for 50 state legal is a huge thing in the aftermarket world, especially for guys located in California. You can get this particular kit for your '11 and newer Challenger with the 6.4 right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Improves Horsepower and Torque
      • Increased Throttle Response
      • Black Performance Dry Air Filter
      • Black Powder-Coated Welded Aluminum Construction
      • No Tune Required
      • Million Mile Limited Warranty
      • CARB EO Number: D-269-54/D-269-58 (2011-2014 Model Years Only)
      • Fits 2011 to 2023 6.4L Dodge Challenger Models Without Shaker Hoods


      Improves Horsepower and Torque. The K&N Blackhawk Cold Air Intake is specially designed to provide more power to its application. It features mandrel-bent aluminum pipes and performance air filter that is designed to provide less restrictive airflow than stock. This increased airflow provides a significant boost to your Dodge Challenger's engine’s performance.

      No Tune Required. The K&N Blackhawk Cold Air Intake is designed to work with the factory tune and doesn’t require any custom tune. However, installing custom tunes is still recommended to ensure optimum performance to the specific setup.

      Performance Dry Filter. The Blackhawk utilizes a black, high-flow dry filter that is far more effective than the factory filter. Additionally, it’s reusable and can be used for 100,000 times prior to cleaning.

      Durable Construction. The Blackhawk is constructed of welded aluminum to provide excellent toughness and durability. The heat shield and pipe comes with a black powder-coat finish to protect against the elements and corrosion.

      Straightforward Installation. Installing the Blackhawk can be done with common garage tools. It can be installed in approximately 2 hours.

      Million Mile Warranty. The Blackhawk Cold Air Intake is covered by K&N’s outstanding 10-year or 1,000,000-mile warranty. The warranty covers defects in material and workmanship. Exclusions will apply.

      CARB-Certified. The Blackhawk Cold Air Intake is CARB-certified letting you enjoy a power boost that’s legal in all states for the 2011-2014 Model Years. EO Number - D-269-54/D-269-58.

      Application. The K&N Blackhawk Cold Air Intake is designed to fit 2011 to 2023 6.4L Dodge Challenger models without Shaker Hoods.



      K&N 71-2545

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Cold Air Intake Assembly
      • (1) Heat Shield
      • (1) Air Filter
      • Installation Hardware

      Customer Reviews (183)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Challenger

        • 392 Hemi Scat Pack Shaker - 16
        • GT - 23
        • R/T - 23
        • R/T 392 - 17, 18
        • R/T Scat Pack - 16, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • R/T Scat Pack Shaker Widebody - 21
        • R/T Scat Pack Widebody - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • Scat Pack - 15
        • SRT 392 - 15, 16, 17, 18
        • SRT Hellcat - 23
        • SRT Hellcat Redeye - 23
        • SRT Hellcat Redeye Widebody - 23
        • SRT Hellcat Widebody - 23
        • SRT Jailbreak - 23
        • SRT Super Stock - 23
        • SRT8 - 11, 12, 13, 14
        • SXT - 23
        • T/A 392 - 17, 18
        • T/A 392 Widebody - 21

        Not Compatible with Shaker Hoods