(approx) 2 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Justin: If the stock lower control arms in your 2005 to 2010 Mustang have been damaged or are just beat from high mileage, then you might wanna look into a set of replacements from the brand OPR. Now, this video does include the set of two lower control arms even though I'm only showing you one, and they will come loaded with fresh rubber bushings along with brand new upgraded ball joints for around 300 bucks for the pair, although can be had individually for a little less money. Installation will involve some elbow grease here, guys, in order to remove those stalkers, so we're gonna call this a middle of the road two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. But hang out towards the end of this video and we'll show you how it's done. Now, I can think of a couple of reasons right off the top of my head why you might need to look into a set of new lowers, for instance, maybe a smoked a curb, maybe you got into a minor fender bender and tweaked those stalkers, or maybe your car just flat out as a bunch of miles and therefore the bushings or ball joints have seen better days, which can lead to a number of things including clunking, vibration or just poor handling. Now, these new options from OPR will completely freshen up the entire lower control arm assembly from the inner bushings right here all the way down to the upgraded low friction ball joint, all loaded into the burly steel arms finished in the black paint. Now, aside from that upgraded ball joint, this is essentially a factory replacement in every sense of the word, meaning you're not gonna be losing any weight like you would be with the tubular option from BMR for instance, and you're not necessarily gaining any performance per se like you would by switching to an aftermarket polyurethane bushing. Instead the only upgrade here, again, minus that ball joint, will be the fact that these are 100% new and fresh, and will take some of the sloppiness out of your 10 plus-year-old components. Now, if you're watching this video and really only need a passenger or driver side lower, well, then again, you should know that you can buy these things individually and save yourself a few bucks in the process. However, it's never a bad idea to knock both out at once just to keep things consistent. Another very important thing you need to keep in mind here, guys, is that this particular version will only fit 2005 to 2010 model year Mustangs built before August 3, 2009. The reason being Ford switched the size of the ball joint here from 18 millimeters to 19 millimeters after August '09. So, how do you know when your car was built? Well, the quick and easy way is to read the sticker in your door jamb and determine if these are gonna be the correct arms for you, or if you're gonna need that '11 to '14 version instead. Let's switch gears and talk about the installation, and again, there is some work involved here to get these guys in place in addition to removing those stalkers. And to give you a better idea of what's involved with this job, here's a detailed walkthrough along with a tool breakdown.Man: We're gonna begin the installation of our lower control arms on our '05 to 2010 Ford Mustang. Now, these are the same for the GT and the V6. We're gonna begin this installation by disconnecting our lower ball joint and our tie rod end, and we're gonna go ahead and swing that out of the way. Next we're gonna work on the rear bushing and the front bushing. Now, to do this job, we may need to pull our rack and pinion out just to access the front bolt on our control arm. Now, let's go ahead and get started. Okay, now to begin, we're gonna be using a 18 millimeter wrench and a 15 millimeter socket to remove the bolt that locks our ball joint into place.Now, to remove the bolt out of the ball joint carrier, I'm gonna go ahead and use a center punch with a hammer and just slowly drive it out, not to destroy the threads. Next, we're gonna go ahead and remove our tie rod end link and just swing that out of the way. Now, to remove this we're gonna use a 18 millimeter socket and I'm switching over to my air impact gun, so it's gonna look a little different from the one I just previously used. Now, as you can see to remove our tie rod end link, I had to take a couple good whacks at the side of our steering knuckle with a heavy duty hammer just to break it free. Now, when disconnecting your lower ball joint from your steering knuckle, as you can see our vehicle is highly corroded, this is common if you live anywhere that it snows or rains. Metal does tend to corrode and rust, it's gonna give you a bit of a hard time, but if you just work at it for a little bit using a little bit of penetrating oil, you will get them loose. Now, that we have it broken free I'm pretty sure I'm just fighting against the bushing at this point. We're gonna go ahead and get our two bushings disconnected and this should drop right out without a problem. Now, we have come to the part of our disassembly where yes, I am gonna have to loosen up our steering rack just to gain a little bit more access to get the front bolts out of the bushing. Now, as you can see, that took a little bit of work to get out, but it does come out. Let's go ahead and get our last two rear bushings out, and we'll get this control arm out and our new one in. All right, now for our last two bolts for removal, we have two 21 millimeters back here on the rear of the lower control arm. Now, for the outer one, we're gonna have to use a 21 millimeter wrench because there's not really enough room to get a socket in there. But for the inner one we can get a socket on it.All right, now that our lower control arm is completely disconnected we're gonna go ahead pop that out of there and replace it with the new one. There you have it, there's our old lower control arm and you can see our bushings are a little beat up. So, let's go ahead and get our new one installed. It's gonna handle a lot better because it's gonna have new tighter bushings and new tighter ball joint. And as you can see our new OPR original factory replacement one goes right in place of the original one, it's identical, new bushings, new ball joint, this is gonna work great. Let's just go ahead and slide it right up into place in the reverse of removal. Now, as you can see, with a little bit of finesse, we got it right up in place. Now, let's go ahead and get our hardware back in and tighten it all down.Now, with your new lower control arm kit, you do get one new piece of hardware. This is the lockdown bolt for your ball joint. Now you wanna make sure that you use a new one here because you don't want a failure with your ball joint because you used your old hardware. We're just gonna go ahead and use our pry bar to make sure that our locking area is lined up. Just go ahead, slide the bolt through and we're gonna tighten it down. Now, that our control arm is all bolted in and locked down, we're gonna go ahead and get our steering all back together. Now, this is just tighten up the two bolts that we took out of our rack and pinion and reinstall our tie rod end link. Now, once this is all done, your car is back on the ground with the wheels on it, you're gonna wanna make sure that you take this in for an alignment right away. That's all it takes to change the lower control arms on your 2005 to 2010 Mustang GT or V6. Now, just remember, all the steps that we did today are the same exact steps you're gonna use for the opposite side. I highly recommend when you change these you go ahead and change them in pairs, and then make sure you get your car aligned immediately. This way you don't have any premature tire wear because anytime you take your suspension apart, you should definitely get an alignment done. Now, for more parts and videos like these make sure you give us a follow at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Technical Note. Reuses factory hardware for installation.
Fitment: 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Designed for models built before 8/3/2009.