(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
Hey, guys. Today, we're going to be taking a look at and installing the OPR replacement intake manifold for 1996 to 1998 GT Mustangs. This is a direct replacement aftermarket stock style intake manifold that's made to the stock specifications. It's going to be a good idea to look at if you're looking to replace a cracked, broken, or nonfunctional stock intake manifold with another stock intake manifold. It's made of composite plastic. It has an aluminum crossover. It comes with an alternator bracket, a new thermostat, and built-in intake manifold gaskets. It's going to fit any '96 to '98 GT with non-PI heads, it cost about $250 and the install will be a three out of three wrenches in the difficulty meter and you will need some mechanical knowledge in order to get it done. With that being said, let's go ahead and show you how to get this installed on your car. All right, guys, we are going to start our uninstall by removing the PCV from the cold air intake and some other vacuum lines from the intake manifold and then we're going to pull the intake tube as well. Now, the uninstall or the install even might be slightly different for you depending on what your exact setup is, but it's all going to generally be the same. So, we're going to go ahead and remove our PCV line right now. I'm just going to just disconnect the intake tube from here, I'm going to leave the air filter and the mass air flow all connected. I'll just remove the intake tube from the engine bay, just to give me a little bit more room. All right, guys, now we're going to go through and disconnect any electrical connections or vacuum lines that we'll find on the plenum. All right, guys, now we're going to disconnect our throttle linkage. We're now going to disconnect any remaining sensors, so we have two in front of the manifold here, one on each side. We have one back here. We've got another vacuum line as well. So, at this point, we're going to remove the upper rad hose, I will say you want to be kind of careful with this. You want to make sure that it's not too hot and that your thermostat isn't open. You want to make sure that you have as little coolant in here as possible. We do have a pan underneath the car. So, I'm going to go ahead pull the hose back at this time and point down towards that pan in case we do have any coolant up in here. All right, guys, the next thing that we're going to do is we're going to remove the EGR here. I have a very large adjustable wrench here and I will say that we did spray this a lot with PB B'laster. You're probably going to need the same thing. Once we get this disconnected, we're going to go ahead and remove our plenum here. All right, guys, so we have a little bit more disassembly at this point. We need to disconnect our injectors. We have a couple more brackets to remove, and a few lines to get out of the way before we can pull the manifold off. So, disconnecting your injectors is easy, you're just going to squeeze either side of the clip and then pull backwards. We do have to disconnect this hose here. So, we'll go ahead and do that while we're on this side. Now, we're going to unplug our alternator. I'm going to use a little flathead to help me with the clip here. If you guys haven't done so already, you're going to want to disconnect your battery. All right, guys, so what I'm going to do next is take an 8-millimeter socket and there are four nuts that are holding our fuel rail in place, two on each side. What I'm then going to do is disconnect each injector from the manifold, not from the fuel rail. I want to leave the fuel rail in place, I want to try doing this without having to disconnect our connection right here at the fuel rail. What we're going to try to do is get our injectors out of the manifold, leave them in the fuel rail, and take the manifold out from underneath the fuel rail. So, we're going to go ahead and break these bolts loose. All right. Then, like I said, what we're gonna do is take our injectors out of our manifold. So, I'm going to hold the top of the fuel rail and I'll pull up on my injectors to get them to pop out of the manifold but stay in the fuel rail. All right. At this point, we're going to unbolt the manifold. There are four 10-millimeter bolts on either side as well as a couple 13-millimeter bolts up here on the front. So, we'll start with the 10-millimeter. All right. Now that we have everything disconnected and our manifold is free, we can attempt to go ahead and lift it out now. So, you guys can see, I have everything moved out of the way as much as possible. I'm gonna just try to lift the manifold out. Okay, guys, with our stock intake manifold out and our new intake manifold sitting right here, we have a couple things to do to the new intake manifold before we get it in the engine bay. We need to get our thermostat in place and we also have to transfer over these two sensors right here from the crossover. So, these are 19-millimeter, and I already did break them loose, so they're just about hand tight right now. One thing I will recommend doing is cleaning up the threads a little bit and adding new Teflon tape to the threads. So, you can do that with a wire brush, and new Teflon. All right. Now, we're just going to transfer these over to the new intake manifold. Okay. We'll drop our thermostat in place and we'll go ahead and get our O-ring in there as well. And now this is ready to go back in the car. All right, guys, so we are going to wiggle this in underneath our fuel rail the same way that we removed the stock one. All right. So, at this point, what I'm going to do is make sure everything's lined up. I'm going to loosely get my injectors in the correct location right now just so I can make sure there's nothing that's out of place here. Okay, guys, so we have our replacement intake manifold in place and we have started the eight bolts that hold it down. So, there are four bolts on each side. And remember, they are 10-millimeter. So, there's a very specific pattern in which we need to bolt this down. We are also using a torque wrench here and you will need to torque this down in two different stages. So, we're gonna go ahead and start getting this tight. So, we're going to start right here at this location. And just know that the install instructions do specifically tell you exactly which bolt to tighten when and how to torque them down. Okay, guys, with our manifold bolted down, we're now going to start with reassembly. We're going to get our heater hoses back in place, we'll get our injectors back down, get our plenum on, and then start making all of our vacuum connections as well. Okay, guys, all that's really left at this point is to reinstall our intake tube, the upper radiator hose, and we also have a few other connections that have to make to the intake tube. So, we'll go ahead and get this in place. At this point, you can go ahead and start your car, make sure you don't have any leaks anywhere, whether it be air or fuel. You're also going to want to make sure that you bleed your coolant system properly since we did take that hose off, in case you got any air in there. All right, guys, that's going to wrap up this review and install. Keep in mind that you can always check this out more online right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Specs & Installation
Application. This OE Solutions Replacement Non-PI (NPI) Intake Manifold is designed to be a direct bolt-on 1996-1998 GT Mustangs equipped with the factory NPI heads and reuses the stock alternator and other stock engine accessories.
Fitment: 1996 1997 1998 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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