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Pedders eXtreme XA Coil-Over Kit (11-23 Challenger, Excluding 392, Scat Pack, SRT Hellcat & SRT Jailbreak)

Item CH2847
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$1,196.96 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Justin: If you're looking for a quality set of coil overs to improve, not only the stance, but more importantly, the handling of your 2011 and newer Challenger at home, but without spending top dollar, well, then you should definitely consider the Pedders eXtreme XA coil-overs that we have here today.Now, the Pedders will not apply to the 392 Hellcat or Scat Pack owners, but what they will do is feature 30-way dampening adjustment with the monotube shocks and struts, included upper camber plates and end links, and will essentially allow owners to live anywhere from the stock ride height to being absolutely slammed to the ground, thanks to the height adjustability as well.Now price point is going to live in that $1,200 to $1,300 range. And installation will get a soft three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, according to the site. Take at least five hours or so to knock out from start to finish as we'll show you later in the video.So Pedders is one of those names that might not be as recognizable as some of the other heavy hitters in the suspension category, but their history certainly speaks for itself. They've actually been around since 1950s, primarily down under in Australia, providing killer suspension components for all kinds of cars before making the trek to the states here in 2006 where they've really been exploding ever since.Let's start with the dampers themselves. And at their core, you're gonna find what is called a monotube damper with a single floating piston and a nitrogen charge. Now, those dampers, again, are 30-way adjustable here, which is gonna be controlled through this little knob up top. And this is basically going to allow you to customize the ride quality along with the handling based on your driving type and your ride preference.But sticking with adjustability, these are a fully adjustable coil-over in regards to your ride height as well. And while Pedders doesn't disclose the exact amount of drop possible, it has been my experience that most coil-overs will allow you to slam the car to the ground to the point of pretty much being undrivable if that's what you're into, of course. Or you can choose to keep things a bit more modest and maybe go for a drop overstock, which is entirely possible as well.Now that is made possible thanks to this adjustable perch and collar set up here, which as you can see, offers a pretty wide range of adjustment which, in turn, will give you a wide range of adjustment for your ride height. Now, the springs do feature a really tough alloy steel motorsports coil here that has been developed using Pedders Motorsports' background in racing. And they do feature spring rates of 10,000 pounds for the front and 12K springs for the rear, which is a bit firmer than some of the other coil-overs in the category. And that will certainly translate to a little bit more firmer of a ride.Now the front coil-overs do feature strut mount plates here, they are included. And those guys are loaded with an upper spherical bearing that will allow for smooth articulation without any binding or excess noise, and will also help contribute to improve steering feel over stock.Now, lastly, guys, Pedders does toss in some brand new end links along with your spanner wrenches, which will be used to adjust the ride height on your coil-overs. But one of the nice things about going with the coil-overs such as the Pedders is that you don't have to mess with any spring compressors or anything like that. You're just simply gonna yank out your stock assemblies and then bolt these guys in place. There's no modification. There's no need for any crazy tools. However, you should definitely get an alignment after everything's been buttoned up and you've adjusted your ride height to where you want it. Because, otherwise, you will start chewing through some tires at an accelerated rate.Now Pedders does back their XA coil-overs here with a solid two-year warranty if you should run into any issues. But now we wanna segue into the install and just show you what it takes to get these coil-overs installed on your ride at home. And while I just mentioned the fact that you don't have to mess with any spring compressors or anything like that. And while that is true installing a coil-over such as this does take a good bit of work here and a good bit of mechanical know-how. But to give you a better idea of just how things will go down in the driveway or garage at home, feel free to check out our detailed walkthrough and tool breakdown now.Man: Tools used for this insulation, 1/2-inch impact gun, three-eighths electric impact gun, 6-inch three-eighths extension, 1/2-inch swivel, three-eighths swivel, 18-millimeter flex socket, 13-millimeter, 16-millimeter three-eighths sockets, 15-millimeter, 18-millimeter, and 21-millimeter sockets, 1/2-inch drive extension, 20-millimeter to 22-millimeter combination wrench, 18-millimeter wrench, and a hammer.Hey guys, I'm gonna show you how to install a coil-over kit on our 2013 Challenger. It's not a bad install. I'm gonna take you through all the steps. Let's get started. First thing we're gonna do is remove our ball joint or loosen it up. I'm gonna take my 18-millimeter on my three-eighths electric impact gun, put it on here, I'm gonna hold down. And I'm gonna get the nut and just leave it on there. I'm gonna take my hammer. I'm gonna have to give it a good whack. Just like that.Next, we're gonna loosen our strut up. So now we're going to remove our sway bar nut, and then we'll remove our 18-millimeter here that holds our strut in. I'm gonna take my 1/2-inch gun with a 21-millimeter. Remove this nut. I'll switch it over to our 18-millimeter. Remove that bolt.So now that we have our bolts underneath loose, we're gonna loosen up our three 13 millimeters up here. We have our struck brace here. We're not gonna have to remove that. What I'm gonna do is loosen these up. I'm gonna take two of them off and the one I'm gonna loosen but not take all the way off.I'm gonna let it hold on then we're gonna go back down underneath. I'm gonna lift up on the strut, reach my hand up here, loosen that up, and then we'll be able to push down on our control arm and remove our original strut. So now what we're gonna do is I'm going to just remove our nut on our ball joint. I left it on there so that this wouldn't flop around. I'm gonna release that. Let this hang. It's not gonna hurt if it hangs a little bit. You don't wanna push down on it, but it'll be all right with the brake hose.Then what I'm gonna do, I'm gonna use my stool because I'm short. I'm gonna get up here, take this 13-millimeter off that we just left on there. That'll let the strut drop down. And then what I'm gonna do is push down and move it around a little bit to get it out. And once I get it out, and it takes a little bit to work it out just with the nut, I'm gonna put my nut back on this. Just a thread or two, just so this doesn't hang on the brake hose. It's always a good thing to do that. Now that we got our strut out, you're gonna wanna repeat the same procedure on the other side.So now we're gonna remove our rear shock and coil spring for our new coil-overs. Pretty much what I'm gonna do is get up in here, take these two bolts out here, take the bottom. That'll get the shock loose. Then once I get that done, then I'll go over, put a pole jack under, put the lower control arm bolt out, lower it down. Now, if you're at home, you can use a jack underneath here. Make sure you got the car supported. But we're gonna do that. I'm gonna take my 16-millimeter on my 1/2-inch impact gun. I'm gonna get up here and remove these two upper bolts. So now I'm gonna take my 16-millimeter on my 1/2-inch impact gun. We're gonna get up in here, remove the two upper shock bolts.So now we have our upper shock bolts out. Now I'm gonna take my lower one off. I'm gonna use my 1/2-inch impact with an 18-millimeter and a 15-millimeter on the other side. I'm gonna remove that bolt. Now we'll get a pole jack, put it underneath, and support the lower control arm. So now, I'm underneath the vehicle, we're going to put a pole jack in this pocket right here.Now, if you're at home, you can use a floor jack, put it in this pocket to support it. And we're gonna put tension on the coil spring and lift up on it a little bit. That way, when we get ready to take this bolt out, we already know we have it compressed a little bit. So I'm gonna take it, compress it. You can do the same with a floor jack and get some tension on it. Now that we got our coil spring compressed with our pole jack, there's a 13-millimeter bolt here holding this hanger and a 13-millimeter bolt here holding that hanger. I'm gonna take my three-eighths electric impact gun with 13-millimeter and remove both these bolts to let this exhaust hang down.That's one. And that's two. Now that'll get it out of the way so we can get to the control arm bolt. So now I'm gonna take my 15-millimeter and my 18-millimeter wrench, and I'm going to remove this control arm bolt. I'm gonna take that bolt all the way out. So now that we have our bolt out, I'm gonna lower this down with our pole jack. And if you're at home and you're doing this with a floor jack, it's actually a little bit easier because the pole jack moves around a little bit. I can move this coil spring out from the pocket.Now that we have our coil spring out, I'm going to lower it down a little bit more and get the shock out. And it has to clear up top, which is a little bit... Once you get it out of that, you can pull your shock right out. And that is our removal of the rear coil spring and shock. You're gonna wanna repeat the same procedure on the other side and just be careful if you're using a jack so it doesn't slip out. It can be pretty dangerous with this stuff.So now we got everything disassembled, I brought the new kit out here on the table. I wanna go over and show you how to set your ride height, set the dampening of the strut, set the dampening of the shock, set your ride height in the rear. So we'll go over everything. I'm gonna start with the strut in the front. Let's get started.So now onto our strut assembly here, what we're gonna do is to set the ride height on this, we're not gonna touch the coil spring and touch any of this. We're gonna touch the lower part where we can loosen this up right here. We'll loosen this up and get this pre-loose. The kit gives you some spanner wrenches and then pretty much all you're gonna do is turn this where you need it to set.Now, to set your ride height, you're gonna wanna try to get an eyeball and set it in there and then lower the car down, see what it ends up. And then you'll be able to adjust this by loosening either the top up and spinning this part here or the bottom. But the top probably will be easier to lower it down. Once you can drop it down, you can spin the top. And then play around with your ride height. We're gonna set it kind of close to stock, maybe an inch lower just to get us started. It also has a dampener which is on this end here. And what I do with these is this'll set the firmness or the softness of strut. And what I do is count the amount of clicks. It says in the manufacturer's directions there that it's 32 clicks. So I'm gonna put it at 16, which is just in the middle. I think it'll give it a good starting point for us. And then you're able to adjust it because this will stick through up through the strut tower and you'll be able to get in here and adjust it. Now we'll go on to the other shock and coil spring on this side so that we can see how that's set up and how that's gonna go in the car.So now we're gonna go on to our rear shock and coil spring assembly. We're gonna look at this and we're gonna reuse the lower mount for the coil spring. And I'm just gonna take my coil spring, slide that in till it goes to the stop there. And once that goes, we're gonna take this upper part and that's gonna slide down, just like that. And we're gonna put that in place, just like that. Now, to set our ride height on our rear coil spring, we're going to just loosen this up and move this right here, and that'll set our height. And the thing is with this, once you get it in the car, it takes a little bit of effort to get this to spin under pressure. So you're gonna wanna try to come up with a fairly decent idea where you want it to sit. And then if you have to lower it back down, take it out or just get it down that you can move this and adjust your ride height according to where you want it, you'll be able to do it that way.So once you get that in, and now you come to the shock, you're gonna be able to loosen this down on the bottom here and loosen this spanner nut. And then this part here spins. And that's what's going to set the shock so that you don't have the shock extended too far or not enough when you put it in a car, depending on where your ride height ends up. Also, this has the firmness and hardness selector, the dampener on it up top here. Same deal as the strut, I'm gonna end up sitting it in the middle to give us that ride where it's kind of just in the middle. And I think that's a good starting place. The kit also comes with a spanner wrench and it comes with this.Now, this is to go through the top for the rear shock. It has an Allen nut on it. You can tighten this up onto this. That way, if you ever wanna change, it'll be inside the trunk. You can turn it. It actually is marked and says dampening softer, harder. And that's a pretty good idea to put that on before you put it in, that way, you can have the adjustability, not like the front where you can get to it pretty easy. This whole thing, once you get it all in place, just like the front, it's gonna be a little tough once you get it with pressure on it, to move this. So, you wanna try to get your rough idea where everything's gonna be before you put it in place. Because once it's in place, you're gonna have to remove it again if you wanna adjust your ride height.So now that we have our front strut assembly installed, we're gonna start with installing our rear shock back in place. I'm gonna take it, put it back in, drop it down. And I'm gonna take my two 16 millimeters that we took out on our removal, reuse them. I'm gonna get them started. I'm gonna take my three-eighths gun with a 16-millimeter and a swivel. Get up in here, run these back up in place. Tighten them up. And now we'll install our coil spring.So now I have my lower rubber mount back in place. I'm gonna take my coil spring, take the flat part, put our coupler on top, and then I'm gonna take the spring, sit it in place. And I'm going to end up taking the spring and turning it until the spring sits down into the pocket. And it'll end up going up to the stop. And once you get it till it hits that stop, I can take the coil spring in, start lifting up on my pole jack.Now, if you're at home, you're using a floor jack, you can do the same thing. Get it so it sits up inside there. And I'll run it up, hopefully, it'll go up very nice and smooth. Sometimes you gotta be careful. Anytime you do suspension work, the jack could slip out from underneath it. It can be a little tricky. I'm up into to the pocket there, which is a good spot. I'm gonna compress this up in here so I can line my bolt up.Once I get it to that point, I'm gonna take my bolt. So now I'm gonna take my 15-millimeter on my gun. I'm gonna run it in and take my 18-millimeter wrench. That stays there, just like that. Put my 18-millimeter wrench on here, tighten that up. Now we'll install our short lower shock bolt. Now I repositioned my pole jack. I lift it up a little bit to get this lined up. I got it started. I got the nut on the other side. Take my 15-millimeter again, and my 18-millimeter wrench. Tighten that up, lower it back down.So anytime you do suspension work, you wanna make sure that you torque everything to manufacturer specs. So now we're gonna finish this up by reinstalling our exhaust with our two 13 millimeters. I'm gonna lift it up. Get that one started. And now that we have those two done, you're gonna wanna repeat the same procedure on the other side.Okay. Now that we got our bench work done, I'm gonna come back over here to start installing our front strut. I'm gonna start by removing the nut that I just put a couple of threads on here just to hold this in. I'm gonna let this lay out of the way here. I'm gonna take my strut assembly, fish it up through here. I'm gonna get it in place. I'm gonna take my 13-millimeter. Just start it to hold it.Once I get that done, I'm gonna line up the strut and put the nut back on here to hold our spindle. We'll get that started. Now we'll go on to installing our lower strut bolt. Now I'm just gonna run this in. Then I'm gonna put our nut on the other side. I'm gonna take my 22-millimeter and my 18-millimeter, tighten that up.Now we're gonna install our sway bar link. Ours lines up pretty good. Sometimes you have to use a jack to get it where you want it if you're doing it on the ground. I'm gonna install this nut, tighten it with my 22-millimeter. Now that that's tight, we'll tighten our ball joint and then go up and tighten our three 13 millimeters. So now that we got our lower strut bolt in, our sway bar link on, I'm gonna tighten our upper ball joint.Now, on our workbench, we set this to a height. When you get your wheels on and get your car where you want it to sit, you're probably gonna have to make a couple of adjustments here. You can either lower everything back down, spin the bottom of the strut base here, that'll give you your height adjustment. I think ours is pretty good for what we're doing just for demonstration purposes. So now I'm gonna take my 18-millimeter on my three-eighths gun, and tighten the ball joints.Once we got that tight, we're gonna go up and tighten our three 13 millimeters up top. So now we're gonna put our three 13-millimeter nuts on. I already have one on, that's what was holding the strut in. I'm gonna finish by putting the other two on. I'm gonna tighten these up. Now you're gonna wanna make sure that you tighten everything on the suspension to manufacturers' torque specs. And then you're just gonna wanna repeat the same procedure on the other side.That wraps up this review and install of our Pedders eXtreme XA Coil-Over Kit for '11 and newer Dodge Challengers. Thanks for watching. And for all things Challenger, keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Improves Handling Performance
      • Perfect for Track or Autocross
      • Mono Tube Coil Over Design
      • Adjustable Ride Height
      • Estimated Drop: 1 Inch - 3 Inch Front and Rear
      • 30 Way Adjustable Damping
      • 560 Pound Front Spring Rate; 672 Pound Rear Spring Rate
      • Bolt-In Installation - No Cutting or Welding Needed
      • Pedders Products Carry a 2-year, 24,000-mile Warranty
      • Fits 2011-2023 RWD Dodge Challengers, Excluding 392, Scat Pack, SRT Hellcat and SRT Jailbreak


      Improves Handling Performance. A Pedders eXtreme XA Coil-Over Kit is an excellent way to improve the handling performance if your 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger. Featuring upgraded, heavy-duty mono tube shocks and coils, this Coil-Over Kit will greatly increase your Challenger's cornering capabilities, while lowering its ride height for a more aggressive appearance.

      Adjustable Ride Height. Not only will Pedders eXtreme XA Coil-Overs improve the handling of your ride, but they will also improve its overall appearance. This Coil Over Kit is ride height adjustable allowing you to lower your Challenger anywhere from 1 inch to 3 inch (front and rear) to eliminate that nasty tire to fender gap for a more aggressive street stance.

      30 Way Adjustable Damping. The Pedders eXtreme XA Coil-Over Kit uses 30-way adjustable mono tube struts that have been specially tuned to match the included spring rates. The 30 clicks of damping adjustment allow the driver to dial in their preferred handling feel or desired ride quality from soft to firm to match their driving needs.

      Bolt-on Design.
      Pedders designed their eXtreme XA Coil-Over Kit to be an easy, bolt-on conversion. There is absolutely no cutting, welding or modifications required for a simple straight forward installation. Professional installation is recommended. Please note that an alignment is required after installation.

      Pedders Warranty. Pedders warranties its full range of suspension parts against defects in workmanship, materials and/or malfunction for 24 Months or 24,000 miles from the time of purchase. If a Pedders part malfunctions during the 24 Month or 24,000 mile warranty period and Pedders determines the part in question to be defective, Pedders will either replace it or repair it at their discretion. Some exceptions apply.

      Application. This Pedders eXtreme XA Coil-Over Kit is designed to fit 2011-2023 RWD Dodge Challenger models, excluding 392, Scat Pack, SRT Hellcat and SRT Jailbreak.



      Pedders PED-160080

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Coil-Overs
      • (2) Rear Coil-Overs
      • (2) Coil-Over Wrenches

      Customer Reviews (109)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Challenger

        • 392 Hemi Scat Pack Shaker - 16
        • GT - 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • R/T - 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • R/T 392 - 17, 18
        • R/T Classic - 12
        • R/T Plus - 15, 16
        • R/T Plus Shaker - 16
        • R/T Scat Pack - 16, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • R/T Scat Pack Shaker Widebody - 21
        • R/T Scat Pack Widebody - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • R/T Shaker - 16
        • Rallye Redline - 14
        • Scat Pack - 15
        • SE - 11
        • SRT 392 - 15, 16, 17, 18
        • SRT Demon - 18
        • SRT Hellcat - 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • SRT Hellcat Redeye - 19, 20, 23
        • SRT Hellcat Redeye Widebody - 19, 20, 23
        • SRT Hellcat Widebody - 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • SRT Jailbreak - 23
        • SRT Super Stock - 20, 21, 22, 23
        • SRT8 - 11, 12, 13, 14
        • SXT - 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • SXT Plus - 12, 15, 16, 17, 18
        • T/A - 17, 18
        • T/A 392 - 17, 18
        • T/A 392 Widebody - 21