(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$623.95 (kit)FREE Shipping
Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com, and today we're taking a closer look at, listening to and installing the SLP Loudmouth Cat-Back Exhaust, for the '08 to '14, 5.7L HEMI-equipped Challengers. You should be checking this out for your own 5.7L if you're looking to ditch that factory restrictive and otherwise pretty quiet factory exhaust on your Challenger, to pick up what is essentially a straight pipe, extremely loud, very aggressive and enough to wake up your neighbors. This gets the five out of five on our loudness meter, as you just heard from our sound clips. The SLP Loudmouth is absolutely no joke. You're completely getting rid of your factory mufflers, and you're not replacing them. Like I said, it's a straight pipe right here at the back by your tailpipe tips. Other than that, you just have what is essentially a straight pipe resonator. Those will take the place of those factory resonators. You are completely unrestricted with 304 stainless steel and a 3-inch diameter tubing. We'll take a closer look at the diameter and of course the materials and construction, comparing it to the factory exhaust a little bit later on, once I show you guys how to uninstall the factory exhaust. But as you heard from our sound clips at idle, it is extremely loud startup, especially at cold start, and it's enough to really wake up the 5.7L.The sound of this thing is extremely deep, very loud, not super raspy, but it has a lot of tune. Once you get on the throttle at low to mid range, the thing gargles and backfires a little bit, especially on downshifts, and at wide open throttle, it's enough to wake the neighbors, like I said. If you wanted to pick this up, it comes in right around 600 bucks, right in that range. Pretty affordable when comparing it to some of the $1,000, $1,200 cat-backs on the market, and that's simply because there's not a whole lot to it. It's a straight pipe, 3-inch diameter, high-quality materials, I will say. 304 stainless is the best you can get on the market. So if you're in the market for something that is some of the more premium materials, while getting the absolute most volume you can out of your 5.7L, this is arguably one of the loudest options in the category. Now if you want to get this installed yourself, I'm going to give it a soft two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. It's not requiring any cutting, there's no drilling, no modifications, but it's a little bit more time consuming and requires a little bit more know-how than say a cold air intake. From here guys, I want to show you how to remove that factory system. We'll talk about the comparison between the two, and then I'll show you how to install your new Loudmouth. Let's get to it. The tools used in this install include an impact gun, extension, 13 and 15 millimeter deep sockets, hanger removal tool, PB Blaster or WD-40, and a mallet. Now the first thing we're going to start with for the uninstall is popping off our factory tips. Those are gonna be reinstalled later on with our new exhaust. So grab your 13-millimeter socket. You're just gonna loosen up this band clamp here. Of course, you can grab some PB Blaster to loosen it up here. All right, we're going to do the same thing for the other side. Use that 13 socket to loosen up that clamp. And now our other side was welded on. This one's broken loose, so it should be a little easier to get that tip out of place. Once that's off, pop that off. Set these aside to be reinstalled later. The next step here, we're back by our factory H pipe. You want to grab your 15-millimeter socket and we're gonna loosen up these clamps around that H pipe as well. Once we get both sides loosened up, I'm gonna put a pole jack underneath that split H pipe portion, just to hold it up in the air, while we work on the hangers on the rest of the exhaust, but for now, grab that 15, work these off. All right, so at this point, like I said, I'm gonna put this pole jack up into place just to hold this end in. If you guys are working on the ground, a hydraulic jack does the trick. Jack stands are also a good idea. Whatever you can have just to hold this end up while you remove the other piece. At this point, we can disconnect these clamps, loosen up the H pipe, and get that disconnected from the opposite end of our stock exhaust. Next step here, we're actually gonna use a hanger removal tool to pop our factory hangers out of the isolators on our frame. We're gonna do that right behind the factory resonators toward the rear end. There's a couple of different hangers we're gonna have to do this on, so using this tool can definitely make a huge difference. If you struggle at all with these, you can use PB Blaster or WD-40, some kind of lubricant. Just spray them on a little bit, you don't need too much, and that should help pop these out of place. All right. Now instead of us removing the hanger from the isolator by the factory muffler, what we're gonna do is grab our 13-millimeter socket and an extension and actually just remove the bolt holding the whole bracket to the frame. That way it's easier. We can just remove it off-car instead of struggling above our heads here, especially a little easier for you guys working on the ground. So grab that 13 socket, remove that bolt, and that hanger will drop down. Save this bolt to reinstall later. We have to do this one more time for the front of the muffler by the exhaust tip. All right, now we can do the same thing like I said right by the exhaust tip. Now be careful, because this whole thing will start to drop down, so you want to have one hand on it to make sure it doesn't drop right on you. All right, now we're doing the same thing for the other side. All right, at this point, we can remove the whole exhaust in one piece. My buddy Tony is here to help me out because it can be a little awkward, since it all is still connected. I'm gonna remove our H pipe and Tony's gonna help me out guiding this down. Well, guys, we finally got our factory cat-back off of our 5.7L Challenger, on the ground here sitting next to the SLP Loudmouth cat-back. There's a lot of things to talk about. There's a clear difference, night and day between the two in both quality of the materials, the materials they're made of, the way it's constructed, and overall what exactly comes in the kit.From the factory, you have that H pipe styling that has a lot of kinks and curves in the way that the piping is laid. There's a lot of restriction in that mid pipe. The H pipe alone, when compared to an X pipe, has a little bit more restriction, but the fact that this factory one has so many kinks just robs you of some of that power and sound. From there, you're moving down to your resonators, going all the way down with 2-1/2 inch tubing to your factory mufflers, which are absolutely massive, by the way. Tons of baffling, tons of restriction, really minimizing that sound. So the muscle car's really not just sounding like a muscle car with that factory exhaust.Taking a look at the SLP, night and day difference like I said. You're going over to that X pipe styling. Difference between the X pipe and the H pipe, well, by the names right away you can tell that the H looks like an H. It's got a crossover pipe that does restrict, and, you know, kink up some of that power. The X pipe is completely straight through. Both sides are connected. There's no bridge robbing you of that power and sound. So that's a really good upgrade. And by the way, this entire new SLP cat-back, 3-inch diameter tubing, larger diameter, a lot more airflow, a little bit less back pressure because of the airflow going through in the larger diameter. With all of that, you're moving down to your new SLP resonators. These are essentially wide open resonators. You're not gonna have any more mufflers. As you can see down by our tips, there isn't another muffler replacement. You're keeping that factory resonator position, opening it up with absolutely no baffling, giving you a pretty much straight pipe design. You're straight piping your Challenger with this essentially. There's nothing blocking any of the sound, so expect exactly what the name suggests, a loudmouth exhaust. It's going to be really loud, really aggressive, really raspy I'd imagine, because of the straight pipe, but I would also imagine a lot of volume and a lot of tune. Moving forward from that you're going to see again 3-inch diameter tubing, so it's a little bit wider than the factory one. We're maintaining those factory hanger positions welded onto the exhaust, moving down, and of course, we're gonna reuse the factory rectangular tips coming out of the rear, reusing that factory rear valance with the square or rectangular cutouts. So not a lot to talk about when it comes to the tips, reusing those factory ones. But as you can see, big change here, not moving anything over as far as muffler is concerned. That is just straight piping with a 3-inch diameter. So a lot of noise I'm expecting with this exhaust. As you heard from our sound clips, it's very raspy, very loud. And we'll talk about more of the install when it comes to this when we get to it. Before we can tackle all of that, one thing I do want to mention here, 304 stainless steel throughout. Very, very high-quality exhaust materials, highest quality on the market as a matter of fact. Really good option for the guys out there in wintery weather areas like we are here on the east coast, you see a lot of road salt and climate changes. Those 304 stainless steel exhausts such as this one from SLP holds up a lot longer than 409 stainless, and especially longer than aluminized steel. That factory exhaust, just, as you can see, there's not a lot of miles on our Challenger. It's a little beat up, a little worse for wear. This 304 stainless will just hold up a lot longer. It's got a lot higher quality. It's got a lot more corrosion and rust resistance. So 304 is the way to go if you're looking for top quality materials. Finally, we do have to transfer over those factory hanger brackets that we removed. I find it to be a lot easier just to unbolt those from the frame on our Challenger, rather than fighting with PB Blaster and exhaust hanger removal tools. We did use that toward the back end here, or the middle section rather, but going above the mufflers, it's just a lot easier to unbolt it. We're gonna pop those off of the hangers now that it's off car. PB Blaster we'll probably use, as well as the hanger tool now, but it's easier to do on the ground when it's not on the car. We'll transfer those over to these hangers here. It'll be a lot easier to bolt these back up to the frame once we're putting this exhaust into place on our Challenger, simply because we won't have that big exhaust bulkiness in the way, the whole muffler. So we have all new clamps provided in the kit. We don't need any of the factory ones. The only factory hardware we're reusing is the hanger brackets and the bolt that comes with that. So next step here. Let's get those off, transfer them over to our new exhaust. Now we do have two factory brackets. We're only going to pop this one off because we only have one on our new exhaust, so grab your hanger removal tool and we'll just pop this out of place. What you are going to need to do as well is remove the clip on the end of it, but first, we'll pop this out. There we go. Get that out of the tool. From here, we can just pinch this off. Perfect. All right, now we can set this aside to be reinstalled on our new exhaust. Now we can repeat for the other side as well. All right. Transferring it over to our new exhaust, just make sure you're putting them on the correct side, so it's going to go on just like this. If you need to, you can lubricate that, but it should just slide on if you rotate it a couple of times. All right, now it's same thing on the other side. We're actually going to hit this with a little PB. Just makes life a little easier. Perfect. Now if you want, if you choose to do so, you could, of course, clip this on to the side here, but it's not really necessary. But it's there, so we're just going to use it. Now it's time to get this installed. First step, grab your SLP X pipe and the appropriate clamp size. Make sure that this is a snug fit over the end here. You don't want it to be too loose, because there are larger ones in the kit. So once you have this put into place, do the same thing for the other side. Just make sure that the bolt head is facing downward so you can easily access it. I'm gonna slide this into position over your factory manifold pipes. All right, so now I'm gonna grab a mallet and just bang on the outside here to get this to sit into place. I want to seat them all the way back where your factory pipe was seated. Once you have that all the way back here, we're gonna grab our 15-millimeter socket and just tighten down this till it's nice and snug, but still leaving a little bit of room for adjustment. We don't want to tighten down our clamps through the entire system until we're all the way complete. That way we can adjust as we need. All right, nice and snug to hold it into place. Now we can move forward. Next step, we got our resonator here and you want to make sure you're putting the appropriate sized band clamp over the edge. The side with the slits is what you're going to install onto your X pipe. The opposite end here goes to your tailpipe tips. You want to make sure the band clamp is rotated downwards so you can access the head of that bolt, and slide it in just enough that it's covering the outlet. You don't want to push the X pipe into the inside of the resonator, you just want to put it to the edge of this outlet. Kind of slide that into place. You can also rotate it so the SLP logo is facing downward if you guys are picky about that. That's personal preference. Slide this band clamp to the edge. Grab your 15 socket and tighten that down. Now, again, you don't want to over tighten this. Just get it nice and snug so it holds itself in place. We'll come back, making room for adjustment later on, and then we'll tighten it down. Same thing for the other resonator. Slide that into place. We have the clamp on the end there. Grab our 15 socket, get it nice and snug. Next step here, we have our tailpipe on our driver's side. You want to make sure you're hooking the hanger welded to your new pipe onto the factory hanger isolator on the frame, while also putting the inlet toward your mufflers, or your resonators. We find that it actually might be a little easier for you guys, and of course, this is personal preference, but if you pop this isolator off of the frame here and put this installed on your tailpipe first, it might be easier to bolt up to your resonator and then slide that onto the frame. Slide that clamp backward toward the resonator. We can tighten that down in just a second. First, we want to do the other bracket, and bolt that back to the frame. From here, grab your extension and a 13 socket, along with that factory bolt, slide that through the bracket. Lift this up into position. From here, like I said, we're just gonna get this nice and snug. All right, repeat that for the other side. Just getting this factory isolator off of our frame here on the passenger side now, to do the exact same thing. All right. At this point, we can bolt up that factory bracket on the isolator. All right, now we can come back to our resonator and tighten these clamps down. All right, next step, we're going to start on our driver's side for our clamps. You're gonna use your ball clamp provided in the kit. You might have to loosen it up a little bit, just so that goes over top, along with your factory tip. Now, these are side specific, so make sure you have the one with this indent on the inside. Grab your 13-millimeter socket, and you'll tighten these down. We're gonna align it and adjust to where we need it to, and then we can tighten them down. All right, do the same thing on the passenger side. Ball clamp on first, exhaust tip. Now go back and make any adjustments you need to align it properly, and tighten down all of your clamps.Well, guys, that's going to wrap up my review, install, and sound clip review of the SLP Loudmouth Cat-Back Exhaust for the '08 to '14 5.7L Challenger. If you want to pick up this system, you can do so right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Growl for the Ages. For one of the more aggressive growls in the business, look no further than the SLP Loudmouth Cat-Back Exhaust. True to its name, it delivers a cat-back style with a split rear, constructed using a resonator rather than a standard muffler for a “wide-open” sound. You and your Dodge Challenger get unmatched performance gains of up to 25 horsepower.
Dual Exhaust Type. This dual exhaust cat-back exhaust has a tailpipe diameter of 3 inches, constructed using 304 stainless steel for long-lasting performance on the circuit. It is sold as a kit, custom fit to your factory exhaust manifolds.
Warranty. All buyers are protected by a limited lifetime warranty, which covers the product from any defects in materials and workmanship. Any extensive modifications or abnormal wear will not be covered.
Installation. If you have moderate to expert-level mechanical skills, expect this installation to last 2 hours with a medium degree of difficulty.
Application. The SLP Loudmouth Cat-Back Exhaust is designed for all 2008-2014 5.7L Dodge Challengers.
Fitment: 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
any drone with an automatic ?
SLP loudmouths will more than likely create at least some drone. Unfortunately drone itself isn't exactly formulaic, though typically loudmouths do create drone.
Can you just buy the resonator and not the exhaust pipes?
No, we do not currently offer the two separately.
Will this exhaust also fit a 13 Charger R/T?
The SLP Loudmouth Cat-Back Exhaust is designed for all 2008-2014 5.7L Dodge Challengers including the R/T.
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box