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SR Performance Alternator; 130 Amp (05-08 Mustang GT)

Item 100608
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      Video Review & Installation

      Justin: The SR Performance 130 Amp Alternator that we have here today would be an awesome factory replacement option for the 05' to 08' GT owners who might be looking to swap out a faulty or failing stocker and don't really need the extra amperage of other more expensive options that you might find here on the site. Now, with that in mind, the 6G Series Alternator will produce 65 amps at idle and a max of 130 amps all for right around that $300 price point.So, if you own a 3-valve GT and you've recently received that dreaded charging or battery light, or maybe you've noticed your lights dimming a little bit more than usual, well, then chances are your factory alternator is on its way out and well, it's time to start looking into a replacement. Now, the SR performance option again, that we have here today in this video, it's gonna be a slightly more affordable OE replacement option or factory replacement, as opposed to some massive amperage upgrade like different options you might find here on the site from PA performance or even SR who also offers a 200 amp option.Now, frankly, guys, if you don't plan on running some huge stereo system, then the 130 amp SR option would be fine for most owners. Now, on the other hand, if you do plan on installing a few different amps, along with a couple of sub-woofers in your 3-valve GT, well, then you might wanna consider something that is gonna pack a little bit more amperage. But power output aside, this is a 6G case here, meaning it's gonna be a direct replacement for the factory alternator and will reuse the factory belt and harness, thanks to the included five groove pulley here and the factory style connection. Now, I do also wanna point, guys, that this is a 100% brand new alternator from SR, and is not some remanufactured piece like other Jeep parts store replacements. Last but not least, I do wanna mention the fact that the 130 amp option does have over 100 four and five-star reviews back on the product page.As always, guys, feel free to read up on some of those reviews and see what fellow 3-valve owners are saying about making the swap to the SR. But now comes a time in the video where we wanna shift gears and just show you what it takes to swap alternators in your 3-valve GT at home. Honestly, this one isn't too bad, thanks to the location of the factory alternator in these cars. But nevertheless, site's gonna call it a middle-of-the-road, two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, maybe a couple of hours of your time to complete from start to finish. But to give you a better look at the job here's an AM customer to walk you through it now.Man: For the install today, we're gonna use an impact driver though you can just use any ratcheting socket head driver, a flat-head screwdriver, a plastic pin, or trim puller, a 1/2-inch socket, various adapters, a 13-millimeter socket, a 10-millimeter deep socket, an 8-millimeter deep socket, and a torque wrench. The torque wrench needs to be able to go from 71 inch-pounds to 216 inch-pounds. The first step will be to remove the positive terminal of the battery.The next step will be to remove the air hose between the intake and the throttle body. We're gonna be removing these two hose clamps, which I'll point out momentarily. They use an 8-millimeter socket. We will also be removing a tube to the left-hand side over here, which is just a push clip. And I will detail how to do that as well. I'm gonna use my impact driver on this one, just to make it a little bit faster. You can also use a flat-head screwdriver on these hose clamps but I'm gonna use a socket. To remove the tube on the left-hand side, there is a small green clip that you need to pull away from the rest of the tube. I'll try and detail that momentarily. I'm gonna take the whole thing off, but for your install, you would only need to take off just the one end that attaches to the air intake hose, but I'll show you momentarily.So, as you can see here, it's got just a little tab on the end right there, and if you pull it, it opens. So you just do that and pop it off. You don't need to take the tube off, but you're welcome to take it all the way off. The next step will be to completely remove the air hose now that everything attached to it has been removed. You're gonna need to use a flat-head screwdriver to get underneath the air hose, as long as everything's been loosened up enough. You might have to wiggle it a little bit to get it out, but I'll show you how to do that. Just using a simple flat-head screwdriver to get underneath between the throttle body and the air hose.Once you get one lip over the lip of the throttle body, it's pretty easy. The same thing on the air intake side. In fact, this one you don't even need to. At least on mine, it was pretty easily popped off right there. Set this aside somewhere clean. The next step will be to remove the cables attached to the throttle body and basically everything actually that's attached to the throttle body. And then we will unscrew it using an 8-millimeter and a 10-millimeter deep socket. The electrical connections have red tabs on them that are sort of keeper tabs that lock them in. You have to pull the tab out first and then you can pull the electrical off. That's the first one. That's the second one. They both work the same way with a red tab being pulled out. The next step is to remove the throttle body. There are four screws that you'll need to undo. The top two are 8-millimeter, the bottom two are 10-millimeter. You'll need to use deep sockets for these as they have long studs on them.After that, the throttle body just comes straight. The next step will be to reach all the way down into behind the radiator fan and de-tension the pulley so that you can get the serpentine belt off of the alternator. You do not need to remove the serpentine belt just enough tension needs to be released to get it off of the alternator. For this you'll need a 1/2-inch drive. The next step is to remove the four bolts holding on the alternator bracket, this black bracket that's on top right here. We'll stay on the alternator and we will remove it and put it on the new alternator once it's out of the vehicle. The two bolts at the bottom are a 13-millimeter head, and the ones on the top are 10-millimeter heads.The nuts at the bottom do not need to be fully removed because it's a U-shape channel that you go into. So you can just remove the top two bolts and loosen the bottom bolts quite a bit so that it's easier to get out. I'm going to be removing the bottom nuts though, just for ease.As you can see, one of the two bolts is longer. The longer bolt will go on the right side of the alternator. Just make sure to not mess that up when you're installing later. Excuse me, there's one wire that's attached to the alternator, you'll need a wire puller or trim puller in order to get that off. I'm gonna go grab that right now. As you can see, it holds on both sides of the bracket, and that way, you don't end up ruining the plastic clip. You could still ruin the plastic clip, but it's less common with one of these. You can just yank them out if you want with pliers or something, but I prefer to use one of these. I'm gonna do that now. Now the alternator should just come out easily.The next step is to remove the 10-millimeter nut at the back of the alternator that connects the electrical positive terminal as well as the controller which is connected via one of the multi-pin connectors that will have to be a pull a safety catch out. So I'm gonna do that.This three-pin connector, you just push it in to take it out. So I'll show you that right now. You notice the lock position here you just push in and that's what unlocks it from the position it was in before. Now, the alternator bracket needs to be removed from the alternator and then put onto the new alternator. When you put it onto the new alternator, we're gonna be torquing it down to 89 inch-pounds. It uses an 8-millimeter socket. So I'm gonna do both of those steps, take it off and put it on the new one, all in one step.Now that the bracket's on, we're gonna do everything in reverse order. We're gonna go ahead and have torque specs for a couple of other things along the way. The next step will be to reconnect the electrical connections to the alternator. The 10-millimeter nut needs to be torqued to 71 inch-pounds, and then the other connection just pops up. The alternator should come with a new nut. So you'll end up with an extra one at the end.The terminal actually has a direction that it needs to go in the plastic housing inside of the alternator. I'll try to show that now. So, hopefully, you can see that, but essentially this terminal needs to go between these two grooves and then just tighten. Cover the nut up with the rubber housing. The next step is to reinstall the alternator with the two screws through the bracket. Again, the one on the right-hand side needs to be the longer of the two. They use the 10-millimeter drive size and they need to be torqued to 216 inch-pounds.Also do not forget to put the electrical cable connector that we took out the Christmas tree, plastic Christmas tree connector through the bracket. This is a strain relief that you need to have for your cable. Before we tighten anything down, we're gonna wanna get the two bolts in as well as the two nuts at the bottom. I'm gonna rotate the camera just a little bit down. As you can see, right now the alternator is resting. There's two threaded studs that come out and it's resting right here on one and then there's another one behind that tube that might be kind of hard to see. But everything should be installed loose before we torque anything down. Just finger snug. Same thing with the nuts on the bottom.The nuts on the bottom are 13-millimeter. Again, we will need to torque those down to 216 inch-pounds. Another tip, remember when you're done with your torque wrench to store at the lowest setting. The next step is, again, to use the 1/2-inch drive to de-tension the tensioner, and then slip the serpentine belt back over the new alternator.It's important during this step to check each roller, each pulley make sure that if there are guides that the serpentine belt is inside of all of the guides. For example, down here on the right-hand side, I've missed one. So I have to de-tension again, make sure it's all the way around each drive.The next step is to reinstall the throttle body again, with the two nuts and the two threaded studs. They're 8 and 10-millimeters each, they need to be each torqued to 89 inch-pounds. You wanna torque them in a cross pattern, so top right bottom left, and then top left bottom right or vice versa. Again, you're gonna want everything to be snug, hand snug, and then you tighten down fully. It's a good idea whenever you take off anything that that blue O-ring that was in there, anytime you see an O-ring to wipe it down, make sure that it's clean, there's no dust on it, things like that. Those types of things will wreak havoc on the O-ring if they get inside.For the bottom right one, you might need to use your socket drive. It's a little bit hard, it's a little deep in there, it's hard to get to. Now, we torque them down again, to 89 inch-pounds. Again, in a cross pattern so I did bottom right first and I'm gonna do top left. The next step is to connect the two electrical connections. The one on the left and the one on the right. These, you need to click in once they click, then you push your red retaining clip back in.The next step is to reinstall your air hose. This is pretty simple about the same as before. The only difference is you do it in reverse order. You gotta slip the rubber over the left and the right-hand sides, and then you tighten down the worm drives just so that they don't come off. That uses an 8-millimeter drive. You might need a flat-head screwdriver to help with this install. I'm gonna move the camera to the left so that we get a better angle.The next step will be placing this tube. It's easiest to push it straight down onto the left-hand side and then rotate it in on the right-hand side. Both of these green clips should click. There should be an audible click, you shouldn't be able to back it out [inaudible 00;23:35]. And lastly, using our 8-millimeter socket, we will again go ahead and reattach the battery.Justin: So, if you are looking for an affordable factory replacement for that 3-valve GT at home, be sure to check out the 130 amp option from SR Performance, right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • 6G Series Alternator
      • 100% New! - Never Rebuilt
      • Direct Fit Replacement
      • 130 Advertised Amperage
      • 12 Volt Compatibility
      • Fits 2005 to 2008 GT Mustangs


      100% New. This SR Performance 130 Amp Mustang Alternator is 100% brand new, not re-manufactured like other companies sell and is fully tested at the time of assembly. It comes complete with internal voltage regulator and 6 groove pulley. The 130 Amp alternator will increase the charging capacity at all RPM Ranges with no modifications required.

      More Power. The SR Performance Alternator produces 65 amps at idle (1750 alternator shaft RPM), and 130 amps at maximum.

      Peace of Mind. Why waste your time and money rebuilding your alternator again and again when it will only fail, replace it with a brand new high performance alternator from SR Performance for peace of mind.

      Application. The SR Performance 6G Series Alternator is a direct fit replacement with no mounting bracket modifications required to be installed in a 2005-2008 GT Mustang. The stock belt can be used on original equipment vehicles.

      SR Performance



      SR Performance 100608

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      Installation & What's in the Box

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      • (1) Alternator

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