Review & Install Video
Justin: If you're looking to replace a blown-out or high-mileage factory strut on your 2005 to 2010 Mustang, the SR Performance option that we have here would be one of your most affordable ways to do so while still maintaining some sort of performance benefit. Now, the SR option does feature a gas charge twin-tube design and will be sold individually for right around that $70 price point. Your installation will involve a spring compressor to help you remove the factory or aftermarket spring from your old strut and transfer it over to your new SR option. So, with that in mind, site is going to kick this one up to a soft three out of three wrenches on the old difficulty meter, maybe an hour per side here, depending on how fast you like to work. As always, guys, if you hang with me for a little bit, we'll show you more on that install later in the video.So, again, these are going to appeal to the early SR97 owners out there for a couple of reasons. Now, first and foremost, if you're still on your factory dampers and the ride is just terrible, or you know you've blown one of these things out, probably time to start looking into a replacement. Now, if you already have a set of lowering springs, the SR struts here are going to be a perfect choice as they are better suited to handle the lower right height and firmer spring rate much better than the factory damper. But with that said, you can still use these guys here with factory springs if you'd like. This is going to be an affordable solution, guys. There's really nothing terribly fancy about them, but they will save you some money when replacing as opposed to going with the Koni yellow or something similar like that.Now, as far as your internal structure goes, well, again, this is a twin-tube design, but it does feature a slightly larger internal piston compared to your stockers. And that's going to help you provide a better damping, overall, better rebound, things like that. And again, you can use this with both factory or aftermarket springs alike. As far as your external construction is concerned, well, pretty much what you'd expect from any strut, right? Burly steel housing on the outside, and in this case finished off in a black paint for stealthy or stock appearance. Now, again, guys, I do want to point out that these are sold individually here. So, if you'd like to do both sides at the same time, just make sure you're grabbing two when purchasing. Now, on top of that, guys, the struts do not include any strut mounts or any extras. Basically, what you see is what you get here. So, with that in mind, you can either reuse your existing mounts if possible or might be a great opportunity for you guys to pick up a new set of strut mounts while you're making the swap. But now we want to show you just what it takes to get one side knocked out here on your SR97. So, without further ado, here's that detailed walkthrough we promised you earlier along with a quick tool breakdown.Man: Tools used for this install are a half-inch impact gun, a three-eighths impact gun, a quarter-inch impact gun, an 18-millimeter socket, a 15-millimeter swiveling impact socket, a 13-millimeter socket, 10-millimeter socket, 21-millimeter ratcheting wrench, 10-millimeter box-end wrench, and a dead blow hammer. So, the first step you're going to want to take after you remove your wheel is to pull your caliper and rotor assemblies off the car and get them out of the way so that you can get to work. All right, you're going to need a 15-millimeter socket. I'm using a half-inch air gun and a swivel socket, but this can be done with a ratchet and socket set.With the caliper unbolted you can use just a regular bungee cord and hook it into your caliper and tie it off to the sub-frame so that it stays out of your way and doesn't fall loose. Next, I'm going to use a 10-millimeter socket to unbolt the brake line retaining clip and then use a clip panel tool to remove the Christmas tree clip that hold the ABS and brake lines to the strut assembly. Using a clip tool, I'm going to remove the clip. Next, I'm going to use an 18-millimeter socket to remove the upper part of the sway bar end link from the strut assembly. And now using the same 18-millimeter socket I'm going to remove the two lower strut bolts that hold the strut to the hub assembly. Final step to removing your strut assembly is going to be to remove the four nuts up at the top inside the engine bay, and once you remove those your strut assembly should come right out.Now that you've got the strut out of the car, you're gonna have to swap over your spring and your top mount over to your new strut. This can be accomplished with a spring compressor. I'm using a wall-mounted unit, but you can also use a handheld unit or if you're not comfortable with that, take it to a local shop and have them swap out your strut and spring assemblies to your new one.Now that you've got your spring compressed, you want to remove the top nut for the strut assembly. I'm using a 21-millimeter ratchet wrench and a 10-millimeter box-end wrench to hold everything while I unscrew the nut. Before you can install your new SR strut into your spring assembly you have to swap over the boot and the bump stop. Make sure that when you do install your new strut into the spring that you do use the provided hardware with the SR Performance strut as the thread pitches do differ from OEM to SR Performance.Now that the strut is reassembled, you can put it back into the vehicle and this process is exactly the reverse of the removal process. Now, I'm going to reconnect my hub to my strut assembly. Next, I'm going to reattach my sway bar end link to my strut. Now I can throw my caliper back on and get this bolted up. Finally, you can reinstall your Christmas tree clip and your brake line retaining bolt. And that's gonna wrap up this review and install of the SR Performance front strut. Thanks for watching. For all things Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.