Review & Install Video
Justin: The SR Performance Sport Coilovers here are currently the most affordable in the category for the 2015 and newer non-MagnaRide Mustang to offer both height and dampening adjustment. Now the SR Sports will offer a drop range from 1 to 3 inches while the dampers themselves will be 32-way adjustable allowing owners to either soften or stiffen the ride quality depending on your tastes. Now price point for these affordable coils will land right in that mid $700 range while the install according to the site will get a soft three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, take about four hours or less to complete from start to finish, but if you hang with me until the end of the video, we'll show you how it's done. So if you're browsing for inexpensive coilovers for your S550 Mustang, then chances are the SR Performance options here are probably gonna be one of your most appealing when it comes to bang for your buck. Now there are two different coilovers currently on the site from SR Performance, including the Sports that we have here in addition to a separate set that will be a little bit more expensive, about 150 bucks, give or take. Now, both are gonna offer height and dampening adjustment, but those more expensive coils from SR will make the adjustment a little bit easier through an included or installed knob on each damper. Whereas the Sports here simply include this little key that you have to go around and make your adjustments individually. Now secondly, the more expensive SR coils will feature a slightly firmer spring rate compared to the Sports here, which might lend themselves to those owners out there who prefer maybe a little bit more handling performance over say, a more comfortable ride. But now that you know the difference, let's get into the SR Sports a little bit more and honestly guys, there's a lot to like about these budget-friendly coilovers. First and foremost, you have your height adjustment, right, which is kind of always the big draw of going with a coilover as opposed to a set spring and the Sports are gonna offer anywhere between 1 to 3 inches of drop, which will essentially allow you to slam the car to the ground. And if you don't believe me, feel free to check out some of the customer submitted images here on the site or on the product page where owners have done exactly that. But aside from the height adjustment, the SR Sports here are also delivering 32-way dampening adjustment, something you don't normally see in this kind of price range. Now that's going to allow owners to essentially soften or stiffen your ride depending on your preferences and how you want to set the car up. Now those adjustable dampers will feature a monotube design along with a linear spring rate of 392 pounds for the front spring, 448 pounds for the rear. SR does also kick in some included caster camber plates on top here, which is nice in addition to your adjustable end links over there as well. Again, nice inclusions for an entry level coilover and something that you don't always see at this price point. Finally, guys, these will be a direct replacement for the factory non-MagnaRide equipped S550s which means the install despite the 3 out of 3 wrench rating will not be that bad. In fact, to give you a better idea of how it's all gonna go down here's a detailed walkthrough along with a quick tool breakdown Man: Tools required for this installation: electric or air impacts, ball peen hammer, 1/2-inch drive, 3/8-inch drive, various extensions, wrenches from 12-millimeter up to 19, supplied spanner inches, pry bar, breaker bar, sockets ranging from 10 to 24-millimeters. This is a lug wrench, 6-millimeter key, 5-millimeter key. This is a 6-millimeter key on a 3/8 drive, universal swivel socket, various extensions. All right, our first step is to pop the hood and then get the car in the air. We're gonna leave the hood open for this install. All right. We're gonna remove the wheel now. All right, so now we're at the top of the strut tower, we are going to loosen all three nuts and remove two of them. We're gonna keep one of them hand tight. And this is a 15-millimeter socket up here. I'm gonna leave this one right here because it is gonna be the closest to reach while putting in that new coilover. We're gonna set these off to the side. We will not reuse them as the new coilover kit comes with nuts for the top. All right. Now we're gonna be removing our sway bar end link with a 17-millimeter wrench on the backside just to hold that stud. Now we are going to use an 18 deep well and remove that nut. All right, now I'm gonna pull the caliper off of the rotor. This is a 14-millimeter. There is a bolt on the top and bottom, pull these out and your caliper will swing away from your rotor.What we're going to do now is remove the whole caliper bracket, that is on by 2 15-millimeter bolts. There's one here and then there's one at the bottom as well. All right, be ready to move your whole caliper and bracket over to the frame rail right here or the K member. That way there's no stress on this brake line and it's just gonna remain there until we're ready to swap the coilover, and now you can just pull the rotor off. You're gonna have that much less weight that you have to worry about and we have easy access to our spindle nuts holding on that stock strut.All right, now we are going to remove our wheel speed sensors from our stock strut right there. There's one there then there's one on the bottom. They're both Christmas tree style. You can grab them like this or you can grab a push pin removal tool and can just work and get out and that way we're gonna have some room when this spindle does drop down. All right, now let's tackle these nuts right here. All right, now I have a 24-millimeter socket. We are going to take these nuts. We're not gonna remove them all the way. I'll show you what we are gonna do with the nuts. We're gonna bring them down to right around there so when we...we need to tap this out because they are press fit in there. So what we're actually gonna do is we're gonna take a hammer and just tap them outta there. You can see the splines right there. Now when we go to reinstall it, we're just going to find those splines and then run that nut back down and this will come through. All right. As you can see we're gonna have that little play, now we can remove those nuts. All right, so what we're gonna do now is remove these bolts and I'm gonna use my body and my other hand because this spindle is gonna want to drop down, so we're gonna control its fall. All right. Now, what we gotta do now is get this sway bar end link through that and then while reaching up top that nut, that third nut that you have hand tight, we're going to remove that and remove our coilover and remove our strut and take it to the bench. All right, now that we have our stock strut assembly and our new coilover sitting side by side, you can see some of the drastic differences with the width of the coil here and there. There is total adjustability for this so what we're gonna do now is unlock this collar here. And this is a daily driver car, so we don't want to lower it an extreme amount. This kit does offer up to a 3-inch drop. So what I'm gonna do here is we're only going to go about an inch and a half to 2-inch down. So again, I'm just looking at the top of this and that. We want to get it to about an inch, inch and a half difference. So right there there's about good, we are going to lock our collar down now. We can do our final adjustments on the vehicle as well. So again, just locking that into place. This will have a little bit of movement so when you go to go put it in, you can adjust it that way. So we're gonna take these covers off, expose our threads, and then get this installed on the car. All right, our sway bar end links are totally adjustable as well. So we do get brand new ones there. We're just gonna open it up a little bit and then put our jam nuts down. Again, we're not... If you were lowering this a lot, you would drop that all the way down. So again, we're only going to about an inch, inch and a half drop and it should be good. All right, so now that we have our new coilover, we're going to put it up into the perch here and I have two nuts in my hand and I'm just going to hand thread on there just to keep from falling down. All right, now we're gonna go back under. Now again, this does have a little bit of movement and we're gonna take one of our bolts for our spindle, we're gonna move it into the spot it needs to be, bring our spindle up a little bit and into there. Now we're just gonna start our bolt right there, put our other one in as well. Now you can tap this, the head of the bolt with a hammer just to get those splines kind of started and then when you put your nut on here and start driving it in, it'll draw the head of that bolt in. Watch. So we're just gonna start our nuts there. Again, watch the head of the bolt. Do that top and bottom. All right, now let's get the last nut on the top. All right, now using a 15-millimeter socket, we are going to tighten up our top nuts. All right. Now once we tightened our nuts per our spindle, we are going to install our sway bar end link. You're going to need a 19-millimeter wrench for this and a 6-millimeter Allen key. So again, these are still loose. We're going to get our final adjustment once we get other side on. Start your nyloc nut right there and here at the bottom. All right, once you have your nyloc nut started, I'm going to be using a 6-millimeter Allen key on my impact. Now, this is backwards so I have it on the loosening setting. We're gonna do that top and bottom and for both sides. All right, now once your top and bottom nut for your sway bar end link are tight, we're just gonna tighten up the setting on the sway bar end link itself and then tighten up our jam nuts. Now again this...we're gonna be using our 19-millimeter wrench and just turning these to the right, top and bottom. It's gonna lock that adjustment in place. All right. Now don't forget to reconnect your wheel speed sensor. SR Performance did put little cutouts for this in the back and on the bottom of the strut. So there is one down there as well, just gonna put that in. All right. Now we can reassemble our rotor and caliper, get our wheel on and move to the rear. All right, rotor's going on. All right now once you got your rotor on, you're gonna take the two bolts from the caliper bracket, swing the caliper back around and back to its home. Now it's gonna be tough to see but I'm getting behind here just to get my bolt started. Then we're gonna pivot the bottom to where it needs to be, which is right there. Now using a 15-millimeter socket, we are going to tighten these bolts back up. All right. Now we're also going to put back our brake line bracket. All right, now we're gonna put our 10-millimeter bolt back in for our brake line bracket. Now all the steps you just watched there, we're going to repeat on the other side and then move to the rear.All right, before we get underneath the vehicle, we have to remove this 13-millimeter bolt holding our brake line bracket and these 2 19-millimeter bolts holding the top of our shock. Let that just hang there. Now, these are 19s. Set these to the side. You will reuse those. All right. Now I'm going to remove the two bolts holding the of the stock shock out. Now hold onto these. You will reuse these. All right, now I'm just gonna slide our shock up. All right. Now I'm gonna slide our shock out of the way and put this to the side as we need to take this top mount off. All right, now I removed the bracket from my brake line and the shock from the other side. Now what I'm gonna do is use a 13 -millimeter socket and loosen but not remove these. And what these are for are this subframe bracket, we have to lower the subframe in order to get our stock spring out. All right, so we have the vehicle's subframe supported by two pole jacks. Now we're going to loosen but not remove this 21-millimeter bolt. All right, we'll keep it there. Again, this is just hand tight. Now we're gonna move backwards, make sure that I have some support there and we are going to remove this rear subframe bolt. You could actually see the subframe coming down a little bit. I'm going to make sure that it is supported on both sides and continue to loosen this. I'm gonna keep this to the side. Now watch what happens when I lower the pole jack, watch this gap here. I'm gonna do this evenly on both sides. Again, I'm going to remove this back subframe bolt. This one needs to loosen up a little bit more, so I'm going to raise this back up a little bit. Again, not removing that front subframe mount. I'm going to bring this down again. Now this spring, you may have to pull down on your lower control arm in order to get it out of this pocket. All right, so I'm going to bring this pole jack back up a little bit more and actually remove just one of these front lower subframe mounts just to get a little more travel. Get that spring out. So with that removed, I am going to again lower this subframe carefully. It is still very well supported on the other side and what that should do is give us that needed space to turn this out of here. I'm going to use a pry bar, put it on the inside of this lower control arm, just lift your stock spring out of the way. It's okay that our upper isolator fell out. We will not reuse that. All right, so you can see we have our stock shock and our new shock on the table. We do have to remove this mounting...this upper mounting point from our old one to our new one. Just gonna take this cap off and this is a 16-millimeter nut. Remove that and put that nut back on. Set this to the side because we are not going to need that. Now we're gonna take our new nut and we are going to take...we're gonna leave that washer there. We're gonna take our new mount, bring it onto our new shock, change sockets here to a 14-millimeter deep socket and we'll tighten this down. All right. Now your kit does come with new hardware and one thing we need to do as well is adjust our shock, so I'm gonna loosen up this collar here. Again, we're not going to be slamming this to the ground. We're going for about an inch and a half drop. Let's extend this shock a little bit longer. Just lining up our mounting points at the bottom and what it looks like at the top here. Let me go a little bit more. And we're gonna lock that down. My spanner wrench here and lock it down. Again you can lock this down in place in the car so it won't move around on you. This is just a preliminary on the lock. Now there is going to be a little play there so you don't have to worry about lining it up or anything like that. All right, now that we have our shocks set up, it's time to set up our springs. Now you can tell the difference right here. This is set to the lowest setting. We're gonna raise it up about another inch and a half. Let's take the new top mount off, bring this down right about there. We're gonna bring our collar down and lock that into place with our spanner wrenches, one there and one over here. Now you will not be able to adjust this on the car. All right. Now, let's get this on the car. All right, so we're gonna put our new spring and top mount in. I'm going to bring in a crowbar, or a pry bar, slip it through the lower control arm and this is gonna act as a lever so I can get a little bit more play so I can slide this cup [SP] over that mount. All right, now once you have it there, we are going to jack the subframe up a little bit more just to make sure we don't lose that. Now we are going to turn the spring in the bottom to make sure it is seated in the proper position, which is right there and we are going to evenly raise the subframe back up. All right. Now we are going to tighten up the subframe bolts back up. Now I'm just gonna hand tighten them right now just to make sure that we are in those threads because you don't want to cross thread these and you don't want over tighten them. All right, now I am also going to put these 13-millimeter bolts back in. All right, now we're gonna put the rear subframe bolt back in. I'm going to jack this into place, hand tighten that bolt back down. All right, so now we're gonna reinstall our shock. I left the bolts on here because it's gonna be easy to slip these into the spot and I let those bolts fall through. Start your nut. Now we are going to use a 15-mil for the bolt and a 14 on the nut. I'm going to put my 15 on the top, tighten the 14 on the bottom. [inaudible 00:23:01]. Now to help guide the top of this shock, I have a pole jack sitting at the bottom and I'm going to lift up on it. Now just enough so I can get my bolt started and through there, but not enough to take the vehicle off the jack stands or lift that we are on. Start these bolts. All right. Now all the steps you just saw, we're going to repeat on the other side and then get the wheels on the vehicle and get it down on the ground. All right, that's gonna wrap up my install of the SR Performance Sport Coilover kit. For all things Mustang, keep it here at americanmuscle.com.