(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
$252.55 (kit)FREE Shipping
Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com and today we're taking a closer look at and of course installing the Airaid Cold-Air Dam Intake with the SynthaMax Dry Filter in Black, available for the 11 and newer 3.6L, V6 5.7L HEMI, and 6.4L 392 Challenger. Check this out if you're looking to swap out your factory intake filter to pick up a huge upgrade from the aftermarket world. Airaid is one of the most premium brands in the category and their dry filter here is not even comparable to the factory paper element. This here is a multilayered cotton gauze filter and it is dry like I mentioned, which means that it's light on maintenance. All you have to do is pop this thing out, clean it, wash it, and reuse it. There's no oil involved.The good thing about oil is the guys located in a dry climate areas, this is a really good thing to pick up because it's going to do a little bit better job pulling in more cold air while oil won't get clogged up with all the air pollution and extra debris in the dry climate areas. Oil filters versus dry, they're within a 1% difference of performance capabilities, and this one here has a 99.99% filter efficiency rate, so it's a really good choice in the aftermarket world and again, Airaid's just some of the more premium options.The multilayer cotton gauze does a really good job filtering out and of course, it's got that diamond mesh outer coating as well. The black finish is simply just aesthetics. If you like the dark finish under the hood, something to blend in a little bit more with that engine bay, this is a good way to go. They also have a blue option available as well if you're looking to switch it up and add some color under the hood.Both of those options are the symptom X dry filter. Only difference is the color of materials. This kit is also gonna come with your black powder coated aluminum heat shield. It's a two-piece design that's gonna bolt up through your inner wheel well, and of course some of the brackets on your firewall and the front radiator support. That's extremely easy to install. It's gonna do a good job trapping out the engine heat while also pulling in the most cold air possible with the weatherstripping included in the kit. It'll seal up against the inside of your hood. We'll assemble that in just a little bit with the included velocity stack. This is also gonna attach the inside of your intake filtering here from Airaid, which is also gonna help streamline and circulate that air flow through your factory tubing.Now the factory tubing can cause a little bit of turbulence with the factory airbox, so this is gonna help streamline that air. It also comes with new couplers which are a huge upgrade over some factory options, and it has some tube fittings. Now, because this kit is for the 3.6, 5.7, and 6.4, there are three different options in the kit to use for each application. You want to make sure you're selecting the fitting here, the hoses, and the appropriate clamps included in the kit for your application. The instruction manual, if you do end up purchasing this for your Challenger, will take you through which one's which for each application. We're gonna be using the options for our 5.7 behind me, so that might vary a little bit depending on the engine you're using for your application. With all of that said, this is a little bit more affordable than Airaid's top of line premium, entire cold air intake because it simply is a cold air dam.This one comes in right around 250 bucks as opposed to the more premium full kit at around 400, so you're saving yourself a little bit of money if you're looking for the big filter upgrade without all the bells and whistles. The install, by the way, gets one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Anyone can tackle it in the driveway at home with very simple hand tools. It'll take about an hour, maybe even less with your experience if you've done this before in the driveway. Tools used in this install include an impact gun or a ratchet, an 8 and 10-millimeter deep socket, 5/32 and 3/16 heck sockets, Phillips head, and flathead screwdrivers.The uninstall is extremely easy. All we need to pop off is our factory heat shield with the filter and in order to do that, step number one is to remove your crankcase breather hose. Just pull straight back on that. The second step, grab your impact gun or your ratchet, and an 8-millimeter socket. Remove the retainer bolt, holding that onto the frame. We're gonna set that aside and loosen up this clamp holding the heat shield to the factory tubing. From there, you can disconnect, lift straight up, and the factory heat shield is removed, you can set this aside.So we got the factory filter out of our 5.7 sitting next to our Airaid SynthaMax dry filter, and you can see very clear differences between the two. Like I said, they're not really comparable when it comes to performance. This is just night and day. Your new filter from Airaid is that conical shape, whereas your factory paper element is inside of this heat shield that you can see I took apart. Those are just a couple of screws holding that on. You guys don't have to tackle that. I just want to show you what's inside.So that's the heat shield. Here is your paper element filter. It's a flat, very basic paper element that you can expect right off the factory floor from manufacturers like Dodge, like Chevy, like Ford, very common stuff here from the OEM market. This, however, just isn't gonna perform as well. The paper element doesn't have a multilayer cotton gauze so it doesn't have that diamond wire mesh outing to make sure it's trapping in the most particles and because of the heat shield here, it's not gonna be pulling in as much cold air. This does a really good job trapping out excess engine heat, but it's not gonna do as good of a job pulling out cold air from outside the engine bay. That's where this upgrade comes in. That heat shield here while trapping in under the hood, is gonna make sure that it's maximizing the space to pull in as much cold air as possible.So big upgrades here. I just want to talk about some of the differences there. We're gonna set this whole thing aside because I want to assemble a couple of things on the table, so let's get started. The first step of assembling everything on your table here is to grab your heat shield panels and they're essentially going to attach just like this. Now we do have a few screws included in the kit. They're really small, so just grab a Phillips head screwdriver, the washers, the screws and the cap nuts. These are going to essentially bolt these together with these two open holes. So we're gonna put that through the inside, line that up and set that nut into place.Now the teeth on the back side of these knots are gonna grip the backside of this panel and keep it nice and tight. Once you tighten that down, you can grab your weather stripping and we'll start to assemble them. In the kit, there are too thin, very small weather strippings included. You want to make sure that you're installing those across the bottom here and across the opposite side paneling. Now they will just squeeze right into place and just put pressure all around. Pop that right on. That'll go on pretty simply, and then the same thing around this curved edge starting from the bottom.Next step, we're gonna set this aside. That will get installed in the vehicle in just a moment, but next, I want to assemble things on our coupler. Now there are three included in the kit. One is going to be for your 3.6 Liter V6 models. This one here is for our 5.7 since we're working with our 2013 5.7 RT, and the third one is for the 6.4Litre, 392 SRTs. So this is the one we're gonna use. Now you want to make sure you're selecting the one for your application and there are also different sized grommets and different size hose fittings for each application. So we've got our 5.7 set up here. Just make sure you're using the one for your motor. The instructions included in the kit will let you know which one goes where.We're gonna take our coupler and our rubber grommet for our 5.7 and just install this into place that will hug the sides. Take your hose fitting and install that into the rubber grommet. You want to make sure that that rubber grommet doesn't fall through, it'll just snap right into place. The hose that you're going to install this to is also specific to each model. This is the one we're gonna use. We're not gonna install this just yet. We want to make sure that this is gonna fit right on over our factory portion, so you want to make sure you're pre-installing this before you get into the vehicle. The hose will install later on. All right, there's a couple of steps that we have to do before we can drop our heat shield into place.Number one, grab a flathead screwdriver and pry off this retainer clip. We're not gonna need that for what we're doing. Once that's off, just set it aside. Secondly, we're gonna take the rubber grommet included in the kit that has the threading on the backside and install that onto the factory grommet on the inside of our fender well. You're just gonna push that straight down into position. If you need to, grease or lube can definitely help you get that in. Once that's in place, grab a 10-millimeter socket and an impact gun or a ratchet, and remove the bolt on the side of our fender. That's gonna get reinstalled in just a minute, so set that aside for now.The next step is to actually just drop our entire heat shield into place. Now the bottom portion with that weatherstripping is gonna go between your ABS line and the sheet metal. So you want to go straight down with this, lining up those bracket tabs. This tab here is gonna go underneath of that factory one. We're gonna bend that so that goes underneath, lining up those holes while this bracket is attaching and lining up to the grommet we just installed. The side bracket you want to make sure it lines up with the factory fender bolt, that one I'm actually gonna install right now. You can do that by hand then we'll come back with an impact gun.All right, I just want to tighten up that fender bolt. Now when you have this installed, you want to make sure your velocity stack is seated properly with the larger portion on the inside. That's what's gonna attach your new air filter. So have that installed with the hex screws provided in the kit. I'm using a 5/32 hex screw that'll tighten these down. We'll tighten it down from the outside as you see here. This side is going to attach to our coupler, that's gonna attach to our factory tubing, but at this portion, before we get into that, we're gonna install the bolt down here to the grommet and the bolt up here to the factory tab.All right, your larger hex bolt is gonna go on with a flat washer down to that grommet, lining up those holes inserting that through and just start that threading by hand. The last screw that's going into place is your 5/32 fourth screw that's gonna attach this factory bracket with another flat washer. So we have that in place, we can gun that on. Now our 3/16 socket is gonna tighten down that final one down by the grommet.The next step is our rubber coupler included in the kit. This is gonna install with your clamps. You want to have one installed on each end, but not tightened. It's gonna go on the other end of our velocity stack. Stretch that, and if you need to, loosen up those clamps to make sure that they can flex, slide that into place.Now, that first clamp on the velocity stack you can tighten down with an 8-millimeter socket or a flathead screwdriver. This one leave loose for now. Grab the tubing included in the kit that has the host fitting we installed attached to it. That's gonna go in between. Now, this coupler or this hose fitting attaches a very specific way. You can see the locking tab on the factory tubing is gonna seep into this indent and you want to make sure the host fitting is facing the factory hose. What we're gonna do is compress that to squeeze this into place, install it onto the coupler we just installed on our velocity stack. From there, install the factory tubing, rotating that into that tab. Grab an 8-millimeter socket and tighten down the factory clamp and your new one.Next step is to take our five-eights tubing, the shorter one. We're gonna install that over the host fitting that we installed on our coupler. You can stick your hands through the velocity stack to hold support while you push that through. That'll connect down to the lock. On the other end, install the next fitting. It's gonna go straight down, and on the opposite end, your factory tubing. At this point, we can take our SynthaMax dry filter and set it into place in our engine bay. You might have to rotate it to flatten it out once it's installed. Make sure you have a clamp over the end here. Grab your 8-millimeter socket or your flathead and tighten this down. I like to rotate the head of this downward so it's not sticking out like a sore thumb.All right. The last step is gonna be our engine cover and finally our weatherstripping. All right, since we're already here, looking at our filter, we're just gonna pop this on. You're just gonna lay this all around the edges and push straight down. That'll get a good tight seal keeping out that engine bay heat and keeping the cold air in. All right now, we can do our engine cover and we'll be good to go.All right, this slides right back, lines up with the posts on the engine bay and we'll make sure your hoses feeding through, pressure all around and then it'll snap right into place. Now you're good to go.Well, guys, that's going to wrap up my review and install for the Airaid Cold Air Dam Intake with the SynthaMax Black Dry Filter for the 11 and newer 3.6, 5.7 and 6.4 Litre challengers. You can pick yours up right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Designed for Free Flowing Air Intake. The Airaid Cold Air Dam Intake with Black SynthaMax Dry Filter is a direct fit replacement upgrade, freeing the Challenger from its restrictive factory air intake. In addition to the free-flowing design is the Cold Air Dam which shields the intake from the heat and power-sapping hot air of the engine compartment.
No Tune Required. The Cold Air Dam Intake is application-specific tuned and requires no additional tuning. While custom tunes are not required, installing custom tunes is highly recommended to ensure optimum performance.
High-Performance SynthaMax Air Filter. The kit features the superior SynthaMax filter that allows for increased air volume without sacrificing filtering capability. Furthermore, the filter is washable and reusable for increased savings.
Durable Polyethylene Construction. Airaid uses advanced roto-molding technology to craft this kit. This ensures a precise fit and high-performance with excellent durability and reliability.
All Bolt-On Installation. The Cold Air Dam Intake is a direct fit and requires no drilling. It’s designed for easy replacement of the stock air box, pipes, and filter.
No Hassle Lifetime Limited Warranty. The Cold Air Dam Intake is warranted to be free of defects in materials or workmanship for the lifetime of the product. The warranty only applies to the original purchaser and exclusions will apply.
CARB Certified. The Cold Air Dam Intake is 50-state legal and can be used in California and other states that adopt California emission standards. CARB EO number: D-609-19.
Application. The Airaid Cold Air Dam Intake with Black SynthaMax Dry Filter is designed to fit 2011-2020 3.6L, 5.7L, and 6.4L Dodge Challenger models. It is not compatible on Models with a Shaker Hood.
Fitment: 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
What's in the Box
10 More Questions
It is not compatible on Models with a Shaker Hood