(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey guys, it's Sara with americanmuscle.com. And today, we have a review and install of the Borla Atak Cat-Back Exhaust, fitting your '15 and newer 3.6-Liter Dodge Challenger. This is perfect for the challenger owner who wants a full exhaust system to wake up the sound of their V6, and wants one of the loudest options available for their car. This Atak cat-back exhaust from Borla improves exhaust flow, thanks to its straight-through muffler design. It features durable 304 mandrel-bent stainless steel construction, with piping that's 2.25 inches in diameter, and re-uses your factory tips. So, as far as sound, I'm giving this one a four out of five on the loudness meter. Now, we know that no exhaust system can make your V6 sound like a V8. However, this is Borla's loudest muffler option. It definitely gives you that deep and raspy tone, bringing your exhaust note to life. And as far as price goes, this option comes in at around $1,500, which is on the higher end price-wise when compared to other options. But keep in mind, this is a full exhaust system, that features premium 304 stainless, from a company that is well-known for quality exhausts made in the U.S., plus it features direct bolt-up installation.And speaking of installation, I'm giving this one a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. As I mentioned before, it does feature direct bolt-up install, with no modification required, and can be installed within two hours. So, with that said, let's check out the install.For this install, we used an impact gun, but a ratchet will work just fine. You'll also need 15 and 13-millimeter sockets. You may want a swivel extension and an extension. You'll also need a 13-millimeter wrench. You may want a small pry bar, a rubber mallet, and exhaust hanger removal tool.All right. So, the first step in our uninstall, we're underneath of the car, and we're going to use a 15-millimeter socket to loosen up both of the clamps at the front of our exhaust. All right. Now, we're moving down the driver's side of our exhaust. You'll see this clamp section, and what we're going to do is loosen these up so we can get this disconnected. Grab a 13-millimeter socket. Go ahead and get the nut removed. Repeat that on the other side of the clamp. Next up, we're going right above the clamp section. I have a 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench, and we're going to remove the bolt holding on the hanger for the rubber isolator. You can take the rubber isolator off the hanger of the exhaust, but this might be a little bit easier. So, with our 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench, let's get this removed.Next up, we're moving back near our muffler section. And what we're going to do is remove the bolt that's holding on this hanger here. Grab a 13-millimeter socket, and you may want an extension, go ahead and get this bolt removed. Next up, we're moving to the back of that same muffler section on the driver's side. We're going to remove this other 13-millimeter bolt. You may want a swivel extension for this step, but go ahead and get it removed. Now, make sure you're supporting the exhaust, because it will droop down now that we're removing the hangers at the back. And we're going to use a pole jack, or if you're on the ground, you can use a regular jack, just to support the back of the exhaust while we get it fully disconnected. Now we're back to the clamp section here, and if this hasn't fully separated, what we can do is grab a pry bar and separate it the rest of the way. Now, keep in mind, make sure your exhaust is supported or that you have a friend to hold it for you.All right. Now that we have this clamp section freed, next thing we're going to do is press up on the exhaust. You can also use a jack or a pole jack here, and unhook that clamp. And then we can start to work the exhaust off of our front section. And now that all of those hangers are free, can press back on your exhaust and get it off of those studs. And now you can remove it off of the car. Make sure it clears the tip section. Now we're moving on to the other side. We're starting with removing the two bolts that are holding on the hangers for our muffler section. With your 13-millimeter socket, remove both of these. Moving on to the bolt on the front of the muffler, same thing. And once it's free, the muffler will drop down slightly, so be prepared. And we're also going to remove the bolt holding on that forward-most hanger. Again, this is a 13, and we're using a 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench.Next up, we're going to push up to unhook this hanger, and slowly let it down. Make sure that you are supporting this exhaust with a pole jack or the help of a friend. Now we're back at the front of the exhaust, and what we're going to do is with a pry bar, we're going to release these two clamps that we loosened earlier. Now, they may have released on their own for you, but if not, you can use a pry bar and just release the clips, so you can pull the exhaust portion off. Now, we've put a little bit of spray lubricant up towards the front of this exhaust, to help these pipes loosen and come backwards. And then, I'm going to tap this rear muffler section with a hammer, to try to get it off. And then, keep wiggling or hitting it backwards until it's removed off of the pipes. You may want a friend for this step. Make sure that it clears the tip on the bumper, and lower the exhaust down and remove it.All right. Now that we have our factory exhaust uninstalled from our car, we can check it out side by side with our Borla exhaust here. Now, similar to factory, our Borla exhaust features 2.25-inch diameter piping, and an X-pipe section up front, and also re-uses your factory tips. However, this Borla system features premium 304 stainless construction, and Borla's Atak mufflers, which are the loudest option that they offer. So, with that said, let's go ahead and finish up our install.Now, before we can get our new exhaust installed, we do have to transfer over all of the rubber isolators that we removed. There should be three on each side. We have an exhaust hanger removal tool here, and I do have a little bit of PB B'laster sprayed on it, just to help the rubber hanger come off. Go ahead and pull each of them off. Repeat that with the rest of the hangers. And now we can start to install each of these on our new muffler section. And make sure they're in the proper configuration as you install them. And make sure this last one is going on with the bracket facing forward in the same way that it came off the factory exhaust. And once you've transferred over all of those rubber hangers, next up, we're going to start to install our exhaust on our car. Now, we're underneath here, and the first thing we're going to do is grab two of these clamps and slide them over the factory section. Make sure you do that before you install the X-pipe, so you can have these clamps in place.Next up, we can line up the X-pipe over top of those factory sections. Now, it may be a little bit difficult to get it on there, so we may need to tap it in place with a rubber mallet. Now we're going to slide two more clamps over the X-pipe section before we install our mid-pipes. Now we can slide our mid-pipe sections over top of the X-pipe. Wiggle them till they are in place, and we'll start to hook the back hanger. And at the back of our pipe section, make sure we are hooking that hanger in place. Repeat that with your passenger side mid-pipe section. And now, before we can install our rear section, make sure you put a clamp on each of the mid-section piping, to install later.Next up, we're going to install the rear muffler section. Line up the rear section in the tip opening while you line up the front section and slide it over the mid-pipe. Now we can start by aligning up that hanger and reinstalling our factory bolt. Now, there is a pin. You want to make sure the pin is in its opening, and then go ahead and reinstall your factory bolt. And with your 13-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten it down. And now, we'll move on to the next hanger. Line up the bracket at the back of your muffler section. There should be an opening for a tab, and then you'll be able to thread in that factory bolt. I'm using the socket to help out, because it's up in kind of a precarious position. Now, with a 13-millimeter socket, and you may want a swivel extension, go ahead and tighten it down. Now we can repeat that process on the other side.And finally, don't forget to reinstall the bolts on the front-most hangers. And with your 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench, tighten it down. And repeat that for the other side. And with your 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench, tighten it down. Now, starting at the front of our exhaust, what we're going to do is adjust our clamps so they're facing up like this. You want it to be about 90 degrees out of the slot. Make sure it's lined up properly with the front of the exhaust, and with your 15-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Repeat that for your other clamp. Repeat that with the rest of your clamps. And you can always make adjustments to fit as needed.All right. So, that is going to do it for the review and install of this exhaust. And remember, for all things Challenger, keep it at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Powerful, Aggressive Growl. Equip your 3.6L Dodge Challenger with the Borla ATAK Cat-Back Exhaust and get the best sound quality befitting your engine’s amazing performance. This cat-back exhaust utilizes a patented straight-through and multi-core muffler that reduces backpressure and absorbs sound waves. This then allows your engine to emit a low and aggressive growl that definitely suits your engine’s awesome performance.
Delivers an Efficient Performance. Aside from an awesome sound quality, the Borla ATAK Cat-Back Exhaust also provides up to 7 to 10% increase in horsepower and torque. It’s sure to deliver an unrestricted exhaust flow that then enhances your Challenger's fuel economy and overall engine performance.
Complete Stainless Steel Build. The Borla ATAK Cat-Back Exhaust features an entirely stainless steel build to ensure durability and material rigidity. It features a 2.25-inch main tube that is mandrel-bent in order to reduce restrictions in air flow. At the same time, the main tube also maintains an excellent gas speed.
Quick and Simple Installation. This cat-back exhaust can be installed on your car via a direct bolt-on process and requires no additional modifications. The kit re-uses factory exhaust tips. All mounting hardware necessary for a convenient installation is already supplied in the package.
Application. The Borla ATAK Cat-Back Exhaust is an ideal upgrade for all 2015-2022 3.6L Dodge Challenger models.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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