(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
$291.00 (set)FREE Shipping
Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com and today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs available for the 2011 and newer Challenger RT. You should be checking out these lowering springs from Eibach if you're looking to pick up a staggered set of lowering springs from the aftermarket world to close up that ugly factory wheel gap. We all know these Challengers come off the factory line with a pretty ugly wheel gap, at least in my opinion, you might disagree, but if you're looking at this video, you might be thinking the same thing. These lowering springs are gonna close that wheel gap 1.4 inches in the front and about 1.7 inches in the rear. That staggered gap is gonna get rid of that factory rake that we see from these Challengers. As you know, the front end is lower from the factory than the rear. Lowering your front end just a little bit less than the rear with these staggered springs will start to even that out just a little bit. Not completely even, but gets rid of that rake just a little bit. Now the lowering springs are gonna do a lot more than just appearance. And we can all agree that this looks a lot better. It's pretty badass. The Challenger RT we have here, this 2013 looks better with a Pro-Kit on, but it's gonna perform better as well. Anytime you add lowering springs to your Challenger you're lowering that center of gravity, which is gonna translate to a better performing handling and suspension system. Taking those corners at higher rates of speed, your platform's gonna be a lot more stable and a lot more even, reducing that body roll and you're also gonna reduce that nosedIve upon a hard or excessive braking. Rear squatting is gonna be decreased, which is great for the guys out there taking their weekend warrior to the track, maybe doing a little bit of burnouts on the road. Under hard launches, that rear end squatting is gonna be decreased, thanks to those stiffer springs. Those springs, by the way, are progressive spring rates. There's essentially two schools of thought when picking up lowering springs. there's progressive and those guys who like the linear springs. Here's the difference. Progressive springs like these from Eibach and the factory ones that came on your Challenger from Dodge are going to be a lot more comfortable for daily driving. They're pretty good on the road. You can daily drive them to and from work, to and from school, picking up the family, going on road trips, hitting the highway, sitting in traffic. It's all really comfortable for that, but it changes that spring rate. It progresses and gets stiffer under hard launches and excessive cornering. Anytime you do put a little bit more stress on those springs, they get stiffer and sportier. As you see from those rear springs, they are round a little bit tighter at the top. That is a clear indication of a progressive spring. Linear, on the other hand, are a little bit more predictable. They're the exact same spring rate regardless of the driving scenario. They'll be the same on the road as they will be on the track, which is typically a little bit better of a choice or a preferred choice for guys out there who have a dedicated track car. They know exactly how it's gonna perform every single launch. Progressive springs do change depending on how much load is on them and how hard you're thrashing on them, so that's something to keep in mind. But for most guys out there, progressive is going to be the way to go because you will be dailying and you'll be driving this on the road a little bit more than the track. If that's not your case, there are a ton of different springs out there to fit your particular preference. In my case, I'm a big fan of progressive springs. With all that said, these springs come in right around 260 bucks. A very, very common price tag for lowering springs, especially when you're not moving into a coilover setup and definitely not moving into airbag. If you're looking for a regular set of non-adjustable fixed springs, this is a good way to go. You're staggered stance lowers at front end a little bit. I think it looks really good. If you're looking for a little bit more tuck, you might want to check out the Sportlines. That lowers about 2.1 inches, all four corners. So if you're not liking the staggard stance, if you want a little bit more drop, Eibach does offer a couple more options. The install for these springs I will give 3 out of 3 wrenches on our difficulty meter not because its the hardest thing in the world to do, but you do have to take apart your suspension, which does require mechanical skills and a lot of knowledge and of course the right tools on hand. Overall, I'll say it takes at least four hours. Speaking of tools for the front end, you will have to remove your factory springs, of course on the strut, so it will require a spring compressor. We have one here mounted on the wall, but those manual spring compressors can be a little bit more tricky, so 3 out of 3 wrenches I do think is fitting. If you're not comfortable tackling this yourself, guys, there's no shame handing it over to a professional to get done properly. Of course, it does tack on labor costs, but it is something to keep in mind. This isn't something you want to mess with if you don't have the proper experience. With all of that in mind, I'm gonna be taking you through the process step by step from start to finish, starting with disassembling your suspension, getting those springs taken off your factory struts, moved over to the new Eibachs, we'll reassemble everything and I'll show you guys bolt by bolt how that gets done. Simple hand tools will do the trick with the exception of that spring compressor. You're going to need to have that on deck to get this job done. We are using a lift here at AM, which makes life a lot easier, but if you're working on the ground in your driveway, have a couple of jack stands to properly support your vehicle and a hydraulic jack goes a long way as well. With all of that in mind, guys, what do you say we get started?The tools using this install include a 3/8 impact gun, variety of extensions, 13 millimeter deep socket, 15 millimeter deep and short socket, 18 millimeter deep end short socket for the 3/8 gun, 15, 18, 21 and 22 millimeter deep sockets for a 1/2 inch air gun, 10 millimeter, 15 millimeter, and 18 millimeter wrenches, hammer, flathead screwdriver, pry bar, and a bungee cord. Guys, the whole first step of this process is just going to be removing your wheels. Now, before you do so, we're using a lift, but if you're working on the ground, make sure you have the hydraulic jack on deck as well as several jack stands properly supporting the weight of your vehicle. That is absolutely crucially important while going through this entire process. Make sure your vehicle is supported properly. Once that's out of the way, you have that taken care of, I'm going to use air tools to pop our lugs off and get our wheels out of the way. Of course, if you have a lug wrench that works too, break that out, get all five of those lugs out of the way, pop your wheels off and we'll move forward. Next step is to remove our factory nut on our sway bar end link holding that to the strut itself. Now if this gives you trouble, PB B'laster is going to be your friend. Have a 21-millimeter socket on deck and a pry bar could also work if you need to wedge something in there to get it to stop spinning. Now what I like to do, because while I have that disconnected, so I don't lose that factory nut, I'll just thread that on by hand, just so we know where that's at. Now our next couple of steps do require us to support the weight of this assembly here. So what we're going to do is lower our car down on the lift down to our jack stand. We've got it raised up just a decent amount with this little block of wood here to support this weight. I got my buddy Joe working the lift on the other side. Joe, you can bring that down. All right now that we have this whole thing supported with the weight on the jack stand, it's just one lightly there so that once we disconnect everything and it starts to droop down, we're not letting it hang too far. We want to have that weight supported.The next step before we grab any more sockets, we're gonna disconnect this wheel speed sensor cable from the clip bracket on our brake cable from the chassis. We've got that disconnected, we don't want to put too much strain on that, so having that loose with a little bit more flex is what we want. We can grab our 18-millimeter socket and disconnect the bolt holding our strut to the spindle. Our next step is our upper control arm. Now what we're going to do is remove this 18-millimeter nut on the stud, back that out just so it's even with the bottom of the stud itself, that way we can still just knock this loose without it popping off completely. We're gonna loosen this enough to get the ball joint inside of our knuckle loosened. I'm gonna grab my 18 mill, back that off nice and lightly. Still on, but loose enough that this can get dislodged. Now we're gonna grab a mallet or a hammer, whatever you have handy and start knocking off against this control arm. Once that's dislodged, we can continue removing that nut. All right. Now as you can see, this is completely disconnected, but one thing we don't want is this putting so much pressure on that brake line. That can be detrimental, we don't want that to happen, so grab a bungee cord or rope, something like that that you can use to secure this back so it doesn't put as much pressure on it. What I like to do, just hook that around, wrap it around a few times and we can go all the way back here and just find somewhere that this can hook onto so that it's not putting all that pressure on the brake line. Can definitely go straight back to the frame. Next up, you want to go underneath your hood, make sure that's popped open. We're gonna go to our strut tower. You want to twist off the strut tower covers on the top of that strut and set that aside on the cowl or on your reservoir. Grab a 13 millimeter deep socket and you're going to remove the three 13 millimeter nuts holding on the top of that strut. Now when you do remove those, your strut is going to be completely free because we disconnected the bottom, so make sure you have a hand on that to grab it so it doesn't fall through. I got one off. Make sure you don't drop that in the engine bay. That third one's gonna come off and the strut is going to be loose, so keep in mind that it's gonna pop down. Now, it should rest on the control arm before it comes down and you might need to flex that downward. Just give yourself enough room to pull this out, watch the paint and you're free. Now we're over here by our spring compressor, but before we can get to that, we're gonna have to take off our isolator and spacer at the top of our strut hat. Now that comes off just by hand. You can tilt that upside down to get that washer out of place, that gives you access to the nut. If you remember, this coming through our strut tower under the hood had that spacer or that cover over top of it. Once we unscrewed that, this rubber isolator prevents that metal from contacting this metal and giving you a knocking sound, so that's why we have this. So you want to retain this. Once we put our new spring on our strut, we're gonna want to put this back so we can prevent any knocking between metal on metal contact with that cover, so just set this aside for now. All right, guys. At this point here, we're working on our spring compressor. We've got it set up in place. Now, if you don't have one mounted to the wall like we do here at our shop, and you have one of those manual ones that you're working on in the ground, just exercise extreme caution. If you don't have familiarity with your spring compressor, take it to a shop, get done properly. This can be extremely dangerous. These springs are bolted down on the strut under heavy load, so if this were to release without proper security, it can shoot off and be pretty detrimental. So just exercise extreme caution while doing this. We've got it set up here. I'm gonna crank down on this, relieve some of that pressure. The reason we're doing this is to condense that spring, relieve pressure from that top hat. We'll go in with our 18 millimeter deep socket and remove that nut and then slowly decompress so we can pull that top hat off safety. So that's the goal here. That's what we're going to do. I've got this set up so I'm gonna slowly work my way down and just relieve some of that pressure. You want to compress that spring enough so that it gets that pressure off of that nut. Now we can decompress that spring, remove our top hat, swap them out with the Eibach ones, and do it all in reverse order. All right, once that's taken care of, you can push those back. Get the spring out of here. We're gonna remove that top hat. The whole bump stop's going to come with us. All right, guys. Now that we have our factory springs out of place, grab your Pro-Kit springs for the front end from Eibach. We're gonna set that over your factory strut, if you're using your factory strut. Of course, we still have that factory isolator on the bottom. As you can see it has that little lip here, that's gonna be for the edge of the coil. The end spring is gonna seat right up against that so it can't rotate any further. From there, we're gonna take that factory boot and our factory top hat, slide that right over top of our strut. The same thing up here. You can see if you rotate it, there's another seat, that's gonna be for the end of the coil as well. Seat that right in. Grab your factory nut, tighten it over the top. Just get it nice and hand tight as much as you can. Now we can put this back in the spring compressor, compress that spring to relieve some of that tension, tighten it up with our 18 millimeter socket, and then we'll be good to throw them back in the car. All right, do the same thing for your other strut and we can go back to the car. All right, next up, we're just going to pop this right back in and start assembling it in the reverse order. Once you have that strut in place, grab those 13 millimeter nuts and thread them on by hand at the top. You don't need to tighten these down just yet, just get them nice and snug by hand. Perfect. This will just hold that strut up into place while you work everything down low, and at the end we'll come back up and tighten these down. We can get our bottom shock lined up with the mounting holes on a lower control arm. Slide that factory bolt through. You might have to play around with the whole suspension at first just to get it to go through. Thread it in a little bit by hand. Grab your socket and tighten it down. Next up is that upper control arm. Now, if you remember, I like to tighten that nut down by hand so I didn't lose it. Take that off and you can start aligning this. Now I find it easier to put a pry bar in here just to get it...that upper control arm to come down and tighten it down by hand. Get this, just tighten it as much as you can. Now we can grab our socket and make sure that's nice and snug. There's two steps left. Grab that sensor cable, pop that back in the clip on the bracket. Finally, it's just gonna be our sway bar end link. Now I threaded that on by hand. Again, just pop that off, feed it through the hole in the back, and we'll tighten it down so it's connected to our strut body. Snug by hand, grab our socket, tighten this down. Now if it gives you any trouble, this is notorious for continuingly spinning in that bearing, you can grab a pry bar to make sure it's nice and tight. I like to use air tools. If you don't have those handy, you can have a 10 millimeter wrench on the end of this with a ratcheting wrench on the nut to tighten it down, but air tools work best. Last step, to go up top, tighten those 13 millimeter nuts down. Now these get tightened to about 30-foot-pounds and once that's taken care of, you can put the cap back on. That just threads right on top. Guys, repeat this entire process that we just tackled for our front driver side on the passenger side. Now it's time to get started on the rear springs. Now, to uninstall our factory ones, it looks a lot more complicated than it actually will be. Still a bit of a pain in the butt. So you want to grab a 13 millimeter socket and an extension, what we're actually gonna do is lower down our one exhaust pipe. Now the reason being is to lower down this rear cradle. What we're gonna do is remove this bolt holding it to the back end, but we can't back that bolt out because the tailpipe's in the way. So what we're going to do to make our lives a little bit easier here is grab this 13, we're going to go up, remove the brackets on our hangers that hold the isolators together to the frame. We're gonna remove that bolt, it's a 13 millimeter bolt holding it to the frame, lower down that hanger, then there's another one right on top of the exhaust tip. With those two out of the way, we'll be able to lower down our exhaust tailpipe just enough to clear that bolt, get that backed all the way out. With that in mind, we're also gonna remove the bottom shock bolt, that's holding that to the cradle itself as well. Since we're only doing lowering springs, there's not a whole lot of taking apart that we need to do in order to lower this down enough to get that factory spring out. Keep in mind our new springs are shorter, so we're not gonna need as much room when it comes to put those in. We just need a little bit of clearance to get the factory one out. If you are doing a little bit more than lowering springs, if you're doing shocks or a sway bar, it's a lot more involved than that. If you're doing shocks, you're going to do two top bolts as well to pop that out, you might have to lower this down a little bit more to get some clearance to get that out, but of course we're only doing springs today, so we're only going to move forward with this bolt here at the bottom of our shock as well as the bolt holding our cradle to the frame. So first step, 13 socket, extension, impact gun. Let's pop off those hanger brackets holding it to the frame. Got that one loose. We got one more under the tailpipe tip. All right, this one's a little bit trickier to get to here right above our tip, but we just have enough clearance to get to it without needing a swivel. Can see that cat-back coming down. Just let it hang off. We're gonna put our bolts aside.All right, guys. Now you can see we have that lower down. You can see us getting a lot more clearance and now we have enough room to back that bolt out. And of course, if you needed to, you could pull down just a little bit on that back tailpipe to give yourself more clearance, but I think we're good right there as it is. All right, the next step here, I actually want to get our pole jack out. Now guys, if you remember, we're using a lift here at our shop, but if you're on the ground, hydraulic jack does the trick just as well. You want to have a pole jack here. We're going to jack this all the way up just to put a slight bit of tension, take a little bit of tension off of that cradle. So we're just barely holding that up. So a little bit of tension. Do the same thing with a hydraulic jack if you're working on the ground. We don't want that cradle to shoot down with all that tension from that spring, so you want to support that weight. So again, if you're on the ground, hydraulic jack. If you are up in the air with a pole jack, that's a good way to go. If you're on the ground, a hydraulic jack will do the trick, makes it easier to lower it down. All right guys, with that weight supported, you want to grab an 18 millimeter socket and 15 millimeter wrench, and pop off the bottom shock bolt, holding it to the cradle. The 18 is going to go on the nut, 15 is going to go on the bolt head side on the opposite end. Now if you need to, grab a ball-peen hammer, just tap that out to get the bolt to come through the other end. Next up is that bolt on the back end of that cradle. Grab an 18 millimeter wrench to hold the nut side and a 15 millimeter socket to get the bolt head. Make sure at this point you have that weight supported. All right, guys. Once that bolt's out of the way, we can start lowering down our pole jack ever so slowly. Now, like I said, this is under a lot of tension. You don't want to get it down too quickly just to unload all that pressure. Go very slowly with your pole jack, and if you're using a hydraulic jack, just slowly rotate that handle to get that to lower down. Once we get that nice and loose, you'll see all that pressure comes off. You get a lot of play in that spring. Get your jack out of the way if need be, or lower it all the way down. Make sure you're pulling that isolator out with it. All right, now we can grab our Eibach spring. The next step here for our rear, starting on the install, grab your new Pro-Kit rear spring. We're going to replace our factory isolator right on the top here. Now if your factory isolator is a little worse for wear, you want to make sure you're picking up a new one. Now is the time to replace them. Ours is looking in pretty good condition, so I'm gonna reuse those for the top and bottom, our bottom one's still on that cradle. Let's get this in place. You want to make sure the end of your coil is seating against the edge of that isolator for the top and the bottom. From here, we can grab our pole jack and put it up underneath that cradle. Now if you're doing this on a lift like we are, the problem that we sometimes run into using a pole jack is that it can push the cradle up at an angle and it's hard to get those bolts to line up to get that cradle bolt through our subframe. Now, if you're working on the ground, little bit of a different story. You might be using floor jacks as well as a hydraulic jack. That makes life a little bit easier as far as getting things to straighten up, but it still can be a little bit difficult. Another one of the problems we run into on a lift is using a pole jack, as we jack this up, it starts to get to a point of resistance and it pushes the car off of the lift arm. So obviously for safety reasons, we don't want that to happen. So that looks like the problem we're running into now. It starts getting caught. It's going up at an angle. It starting to pick up off the lift arms. To make things a little easier on us, I'm going to get rid of this pole jack. We've got three of the four tires on with the exception of this one here. We're going to put this on the ground so that all of the weight can sit down on top of a hydraulic jack. That'll make things a little easier. We'll put that hydraulic jack right under here and start pushing upward. That way, number one, we don't have to worry about it not lining up properly, and number two, we don't have to worry about it coming off of our lift arm. So let's do that, get this pole jack out of the way, start lowering it down. Now that we have the weight of the vehicle down, we've got our hydraulic jack underneath that cradle. We're just gonna line things up, get this jack where we want it to be and start pumping it up. All right, now we can work on our shock bolt, then line that up with a screwdriver on the other side to position that bolt hole, just slide it straight through. If you need to, a hammer can tap it in. Grab the nut, thread it on by hand, and we'll take our sockets and tighten them both down. Guys, once you to have all that taken care of and your bolts are tightened down, repeat for the other side. Well, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Eibach Pro-Kit Leveling Springs. This is gonna do wonders for your appearance on the Challenger, and it's also going to do wonders for the handling and suspension performance. You can pick up your set of the Pro-Kit Lowering Springs from Eibach right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Specs & Installation
Improves Performance. Installing these Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs is a great way to boost its street or track performance. The lowered center of gravity and Eibach's superior springs improve handling, stopping distance, and fuel economy. Additionally, the lowered stance helps to reduce squat and improves control.
Classic Lowered Muscle Car Stance. While the performance benefits of these Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs are great incentives, the beautiful classic look of a lowered muscle car seals the deal. These springs are designed to lower the Challenger by as much as 1.40 inches at the front and 1.70 inches at the rear.
Eibach Quality Construction. These Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs are made with advanced CNC technology for superior performance. Additionally, they're heat-treated to ensure toughness and durability for long-lasting service.
Progressive Rate Springs. To ensure superior ride quality, these springs are designed to have a progressive rate. These springs are ideal for track and street applications.
Clears Stock and Aftermarket Wheels & Tires. These lowering springs were engineered to be compatible with your stock size wheels and tires, as well as AmericanMuscle’s pre-configured wheel and tire combo kits (specific to your generation), to assure proper clearance with no rubbing issues.
Professional Installation Recommended. These springs are designed for a straightforward replacement of the stock springs. However, due to the hazards of replacing springs, professional installation is recommended.
Backed by Million Mile Warranty. These Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs are warranted against factory defects in material or workmanship under normal installation and use. This warranty is only valid for the original purchaser and other exclusions will apply.
Application. This set of Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs are designed for 2011-2020 R/T Dodge Challenger models.
Technical Note. If you have a Challenger that is equipped with Load Leveling Rear Dampers (Nivomat), you will also need to install Eibach's Pro-Damper Shock and Strut Kit, part# 28110.840, for proper lowering.
Fitment: 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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