Guaranteed Free Delivery by 12/24! available on most items - Details

Talk to a Challenger Enthusiast
M-F 8:30A-11P, Sat-Sun 8:30A-9P
Win $4,000! Enter Daily

MP Concepts Demon Style LED Halo Headlight Inserts (15-23 Challenger)

Item CH3987
Call a Challenger Enthusiast at 1-877-887-1105
M-F 8:30A-11P, Sat-Sun 8:30A-9P
Our Price

$219.99 (pair)

FREE Shipping Market Price $258.99 You Save 15% ($39.00)

Will this fit your Vehicle?

Select a different vehicle Help?
Update or Change Vehicle
Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
Sorry, please enter a valid US or CA postal code
We're sorry, zip can't be updated at this time.
Recommended Install Shops
How It Works
Install Shops are available near Ashburn - 20149

Add Local Shop Installation

Total cost of service $174.99
    Create a list
    Add to New List

    Saved - View your saved items

    We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.

    or use

      Video Review & Installation

      Hey guys, Adam here with And today we're taking a closer look at and installing the MP Concepts Demon Style LED Halo headlight inserts available for the 2015 and newer Challenger. Now you should be checking this out if you're looking for a Demon Style LED Halo at the front end of your Challenger, whether it's a V6, whether it's an RT with the Hemi, or a Hellcat like we have in the studio today. If your Challenger has the headlights with the open-air inlet, you can now get this insert here to mock that of the demon styling that gives you a really bright pure white LED Halo around the inside with that tunnel or vortex style that has the LED stripes going through it. This uses a black ABS plastic housing on the inside with a polycarbonate clear lens. And that lens is more like a tubing. And that tubing is gonna insert into that open-air dam or air inlet on those factory headlights or those aftermarket ones if you're using that style headlight.Now, as long as you have that open-air inlet, this guy will slide right through and screw in using three screws to the back of the factory light. Now those screws are gonna hold it in place, and then you'll display some wiring into the factory parking light harness. And with that, you achieve this Halo styling. Now the Halo LEDs are actually seated all the way in the back of the housing behind the air inlet and then it's gonna shoot that LED light through that polycarbonate tubing, giving you that vortex or tunnel vision effect. Now this uses a pure white LED around 5,000K color temperature and this is gonna come on in conjunction with your factory Halos that surround the low and high beams and it's something that's just gonna give you a really aggressive, pretty unique styling at the front end, again, mocking that of the demon styling.Now this one's gonna come in at right around 300 bucks for the pair. You don't have to do any modification to the factory headlights. As long as you have that air inlet, it'll screw into the back of the headlight housing. And then you just got to do a little bit of splicing. Now, even though this is an insert inserting into the factory air inlet on your factory headlights, you are still gonna be able to use that as an air inlet. The housing actually has an open hole throughout the entire thing. The LED is surrounded, but you have the air coming in and the air coming out inside the engine bay. So even though you're inserting something into that air inlet, the air inlet is still completely functional with this inserted. With that said, the install, I'm giving two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. The front bumper does have to come off in order to get the headlights out in order to gain access to the back of the headlight and the wiring from there.Now, wiring is really simple. There are quick splice connectors included in the kit. So really all you're doing is clamping onto the factory wiring once you figure out which wires are your power and ground. And I'll walk you through what that looks like in just a little bit. Overall, it will take you three, maybe four hours from start to finish, depending on your personal experience of course. We're using a lift in our set, which makes life a whole lot easier. If you're working on the ground in the driveway at home, you do have to get the factory splash shield or belly pan off underneath of the engine bay. That can be a little bit tricky with the lack of space working on the ground. If you can get the front end supported up in the air a little bit in the driveway, you should have a little bit easier of a time getting that done. I'll walk you through the entire process here, guys. What'd you say we get started?Tools used in the install include an impact gun, a couple of different size extensions, seven, eight, and 10-millimeter deep sockets. A universal swivel joint is recommended. Phillips head screwdriver, pliers, and a panel removal tool. First things first, we've got our Challenger up on our lift. Now, if you're working in the driveway at home, you just wanna support the front end, get it up a little bit off the ground, just to make your life a little bit easier. Grab a 7-millimeter deep socket. We're gonna remove a bunch of the screws holding on our factory splash shield. Now we're working on a Hellcat today. Same thing is gonna apply for the non-Hellcat cat versions of course. Yours maybe a little bit less intimidating since this is a little bit more aggressive than your traditional RT or something like that. So it may look a little different, but the same rules apply. Remove all the screws holding on that factory splash shield, starting with our seven socket.We have two 10-millimeter bolts, a little bit farther back, grab your 10 soc and get them off. Next, we have on both sides, three plastic push pin clips we have to pop off. Grab a panel removal tool or something similar and get these guys out of the way. And then you'll just repeat that on the other side.All right, repeat that on the other side and we can pop the splash shield off. Next up, we lower the vehicle a little bit down on our lifts. We're gonna go in the wheel well area starting on our passenger side. I've turned the wheel in a little bit to easily access some of the pushpin clips on the inside. Ours are missing, but you should have three one-time-use plastic rivets there. They pop right out. So you can pull back on this and they'll snap out of place. They look like that right there. So once you have that out of the way, you have a 10-millimeter holding on this corner of your chin spoiler. So you wanna get that out of the way. And then we have one more that I'll talk about in a second. Grab a 10 socket. I'm gonna use my swivel just because this is a little tight and get that off.The next part is really difficult to see on camera, so try to bear with me here. I'm gonna show you guys what you need to do next. There's one more 10-millimeter nut holding on the front bumper to the fender. And it falls right in this area. The stud's coming through the front toward the back with the nut facing you. Now, in order to get that out, you're gonna need a pretty long extension. I definitely recommend a swivel socket and a 10-millimeter on the end of that. We're gonna peel back our wheel well liner just enough to get your hands through this little gap here, and you're gonna put your extension straight through, drop on your 10-millimeter deep socket, get that nut off, and then you should be able to squeeze your hand through to get the nut off by hand at the end of that.So again, really difficult to show you guys on camera, but just know that the stud falls somewhere right in the middle here. So if you go at the top where the hood line is, and then this little marker light, halfway in between both of those should be just about there. All right. So I peeled back this liner. That's really all you need just to get enough through. I've got my long extension, my universal swivel socket, and my 10 millimeters.You're gonna peak your head through there, drop on the 10-millimeter onto the stud, right? So I've got my 10 on there now. We're about right here. Let's loosen that guy up. Once you have it loose, pull that out, and it should just be enough to get your hand through. All right. And there you have it. There's a 10-millimeter nut. And again, it's back here.All right. So next you wanna repeat that, of course, on the other side and that other wheel well. It's the exact same process. Then we're gonna bring our car back to the ground and work under the hood. Next, we have our radiator shrouds you have to get off. There's two pieces. Start on the driver's side, lift up to unlock in the corner here, and pull it out from the hood latch and set that aside. All right, same thing on the other side. Next, we have a couple of black pushpin clips underneath of the shroud that we have to get off holding on at the top of our front bumper. We don't have to worry about the ones that are on the paint mash section, just the plastic black. Wanna make sure they're one piece, pull that off. Repeat that for the rest of them. Now my hands might be blocking this once we're getting it off, but there's a 10-millimeter nut in the corners right above the headlights where the bumper meets the fender right across this line here. You can see that tucked in there. Grab a swivel socket and your 10-millimeter and get that off.All right. You just wanna be careful not to drop it too far down. Next step, of course, you wanna repeat that same thing on the other corner above the headlights to remove that. And then from there, we can pop our bumper out of place. Now I've already disconnected the passenger side. On the driver's side, you wanna come over to where the bumper meets the wheel well and just wanna pull to disconnect, just like that. And she kinda wiggled right out of place. Now we can lift and pull the entire front bumper off. When you pull that bumper off, you don't wanna go too far with it. We still have to disconnect a master harness for our fog lights and our headlights to make sure that we're not pulling it too far off.All right, just pull that all the way down. Now it's actually our marker lights that we have to disconnect. But if you have fog lights, you'll disconnect those as well. The marker lights come up. Lift up on the red locking tab, pinch, and disconnect. Repeat on the other side. With both sides disconnected, set your bumper aside. Now removing the headlight is pretty simple. Three 8-millimeter bolts or Torx screws if you wanna use a Torx socket, if that's easier for you. You can use both. We're gonna get it off on our driver's side first and then you'll just repeat the same process on the other side. I'm gonna use a pretty long extension here. There's two at the bottom, one at the top.All right, one more at the top and then we can pull it off. All right, so next we can pull the headlight straight back, set it on your knees, pinch, and disconnect that one harness, and set the entire light aside. Now on the back of the factory headlight, you can see three little mounting holes. That's what we're gonna use to screw in our new LED insert. This tab here is gonna go toward the bottom, drop that guy in place. And you'll see, three holes are gonna line up to the three holes on the back of the headlight. You have three little open holes for the retaining pins and that's gonna lock it in place. So that's how you know it's secured. Grab three of the Phillips head screws and tighten them into place using a screwdriver. You don't wanna use an impact gun. You wanna use a screwdriver because you're screwing a metal screw into a plastic housing and you don't wanna strip it or crack it. So you wanna go carefully and slowly.Perfect. Once that's tight and secure, it should have no wiggle room. We can put the headlight back into the vehicle and splice in our wires. All right, next up, we have our headlight propped up on my lap here. We got it really close together. You don't wanna plug it in just yet, just because you wanna have a little bit more free-range with the harness. We're gonna do some splicing. On the back of the LED, you have a black and a red. Black is your ground, red is your power. They have to be spliced into very specific wires on the back of the factory harness.Now on this harness or on this connector, there's a lot of wires coming out of the back of it. We wanna isolate two of them in particular. Looking at the bottom row here when you're looking straight down, you can see that the bottom row has a lot more wires than the top row. If you flip this over, this top row here only has two wires coming out of it, black and white with a pink stripe. This black on the bottom row, the row that only has the two wires coming out of it, is gonna be your ground, not the black wire coming out of the bottom row that has all the wires. This is not the wire we're gonna splice into. This black wire on the bottom with only two wires coming out of that side. That's gonna be your ground.So black is gonna splice into black there. So on the back of the LED, grab that black wire, those are gonna splice in. Now for the power, it's a little bit trickier. You wanna look at the row with all these wires coming out of it. From the left to the right, you wanna count one, two, three. You should have a white wire with a dark brown, almost black-looking stripe going through it. The white wire with that brown stripe is your power. So that red wire on the back of the LED is gonna splice into the white wire with the brown stripe. Now, if you want to, or if you need to, you can grab a light tester, throw on your parking lights, and put the light tester through here after you ground it and you can test which light lights up with your parking light and that's gonna be your power.I've already done that and I've determined that it's the white with the brown stripe. I'm gonna start with our black one. Start with our ground. I'm gonna take a quick splice connector included in the kit. I'm gonna hook that guy onto the factory harness and just pinch it shut a little bit. Again, it's the black wire on the back row or the light row with the two wires coming out of it. Grab the black wire from the LED and insert it into the open hole there until it's all the way through. I'm gonna pinch this shut a little bit. Grab your pliers and crimp down that metal connector at the top.All right, that's gonna splice them together and make that good connection. Take the black wire on the back of the LED. Give it a little tug, make sure it's secure. Close that guy up. Just like that. We're gonna repeat the same thing for the red wire going to the white wire with the brown stripe. Now, if you need to, I didn't say this before, but if you need to, you can cut back this wire loom. If this loom comes all the way down close to the connector, cut some of that back like you see here so you can expose more of the wires. You don't wanna splice in too close to the connector here in case anything were to happen and you have to cut the wire and start over. You wanna have a lot of wire left so you wanna come up a little bit higher. All right, going to the white with brown, pinch that shut a little bit. Take your power or your red wire from the LED and insert. Make sure it's far enough in that it gets a really good connection.Put that down, close her up. Now you wanna test your lights, make sure they work. And we can repeat this exact same process for the other side, mounting our headlights and reconnecting the harness. Now we can re-mount the headlight, just putting it back in the way it was from the factory. Make sure you're getting those pins seated correctly. Push that in so it snaps in place so it should hold itself in place when seated correctly. Grab the factory 8-millimeter bolts, and you're gonna put them back through.Repeat that on the other side. We can put our bumper back on, reassemble everything, and you'll be good to go. I want to knock that out on the passenger side, bring your bumper really close to the body so we can plug in our marker lights. Plug those marker lights in and should be seated all the way down. Once you have that completely seated and you hear it click, push down the red locking tab. Repeat on the other side. From here one side at a time, bring your bumper up into place. Just be careful that you don't damage your factory paint. Just like that. Same thing on the other side. For these corners, you wanna lift out and hook it in, and then you pop them back into place. Same thing on the other side. And we can start putting our bolts back in.With the bumper back in place and you make sure that everything is secure, grab your 10-millimeter nut. We're gonna go back into this corner right here above our headlight. Now you wanna get that threaded in by hand, a couple of threads. Then you wanna grab your swivel socket and your 10 deep and tighten it down. Repeat that on the other side. Let's put those black pushpin clips back into place. It should be six of them.Black radiator shrouds go back on next. All right. Let's put it back up in the air and do the bolts in the wheel well. Right back up in the wheel well area, you wanna peel that liner back, take the nut, and you wanna carefully thread it on by hand onto that stud. Now you only have to get it on a couple of threads. You can really do it with your little pointer finger. Just spin that guy on. Once you do, grab your extension, swivel socket, and 10-millimeter and tighten it down.From there, seat the wheel well liner back into the fender. Just like that. Put your 10-millimeter back on the chin spoiler section. Put your 10-millimeter back in there, tighten that down. Perfect. You wanna make sure the new splash shield that we're putting back on here is going underneath of on the outside of the splash shield that's still on the vehicle while you're tucking in the front underneath of the factory bumper.Once you have that guy in place, bring it around so we can put those factory 10-millimeter bolts back in the center. That's gonna help hold this guy in place. Grab your 10 socket and tighten them down. Grab those factory 7-millimeter screws and put them back through. Okay. We just have a couple more of these plastic clips to put back into place. Just wanna find those holes, make sure they line up.All right. Repeat that on the other side and you're good to go. That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the MP Concepts Demon Style LED Halo Headlight Inserts for the 15 and newer Challenger. Get yours right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Demon Style Lighting Appearance Upgrade
      • Powerful LED Lighting
      • Clear Polycarbonate Lenses
      • Durable ABS Plastic Housings
      • Driver and Passenger Side Included
      • Fits 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger Models


      Demon Style Lighting Upgrade. A pair of MP Concepts Demon Style LED Halo Headlight Inserts are an excellent way to update the exterior styling of your 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger. These Headlight Inserts feature LED lighting that not only look fantastic, but help to increase visibility day or night.

      Quality Construction. These MP Concepts Demon Style LED Halo Headlight Inserts are manufactured from high quality materials to precise standards for lasting quality. This headlight insert features durable, black, plastic housings with crystal clear polycarbonate lenses. Each light insert is weather-sealed to prevent dirt and moisture from harming the state of the art electronics.

      Straight Forward Installation. MP Concepts designed their Demon Style LED Halo Headlight Inserts to be a straight forward upgrade your Challenger's original factory housings using the included wire taps. However, it should be noted that you will need to remove the front fascia in order to gain access to the mounting bolts making this an install that can take up to 4 hours to complete.

      Application. These MP Concepts Demon Style LED Halo Headlight Inserts are designed to fit 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger models. Driver and passenger side included.


      MP Concepts CH3987

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Driver Side LED Halo Headlight Insert
      • (1) Passenger Side LED Halo Headlight Insert
      • (6) Phillips Screws
      • (4) Wire Taps

      Customer Reviews (11)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions