(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$610.68 (kit)FREE Shipping
Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today we're taking a closer look at, installing, and listening to our Pypes Street Pro cat-back exhaust, available for the '09 to '14 5.7 liter HEMI-equipped Challengers. You should be checking this out for your own Challenger if you're looking to ditch the quiet, restrictive, and otherwise not so powerful factory exhaust, with something that opens up that complete airflow, giving you a little bit more horsepower and torque, with a lot more sound. This option right here, as you just heard from our sound clip, is gonna get three out of five on my loudness meter, simply because it is a nice upgrade from stock, giving you a nice aggressive tone, something that's not too overbearing, not a whole lot of drone inside the cabin, but still let you know it's an aftermarket deep, throaty exhaust. It's not overbearing like some of the other options out there, like a Corsa Xtreme or a Borla ATAK that would get five out of five on the loudness meter. The volume is there, but it's also got a really rich tone.This particular option here is gonna swap out your factory H-pipe for an X-pipe. H-pipe versus X-pipe, you're gonna get a little bit more power and volume out of the X-pipe because it's not as restrictive as an H. It's got that connected middle. It's gonna streamline that airflow through the 409 stainless steel with 2.5-inch diameter throughout. At the back end here, you see we're swapping out the factory tip for the double box style tip with a stainless steel polished finish. Looks really good coming out the rear end, although I will say, it extends a little bit farther than what you might be used to, it has the Pypes' name right on top as well to give you a little bit more branding. As far as resonators, your factory resonators are being deleted and replaced with a chamber style muffler. That's that sound that you're hearing, that Street Pro muffler. You're also gonna delete any muffler back here. Your factory style had that muffler here, that is pretty much straight piping at the back end of your tailpipes.This entire system comes in right around 600 bucks, a little over 600 bucks in the category, making it one of those midway points. It is a little bit more affordable than some of the premium options with all the bells and whistles. And, keep in mind, 409 stainless steel is keeping that price down as well, it's not 304 stainless. So, if you're located in a wintry weather area seeing a lot of road salt and debris that might eat up or corrode a little bit faster, 304 might be something you wanna pick up. But, in most cases, this is going to be a lot more durable than your factory option as well as aluminized options out there in the aftermarket. The install for something like this, two out of three wrenches on our difficult meter. Anybody can tackle it in the driveway at home, it makes it easier to easier a lift like we are, but you can tackle it with a hydraulic jack and some jack stands, making sure you have the weight properly supported on the ground. With all that in mind, I wanna show you guys step by step the entire install, starting with taking that factory exhaust off. We'll talk some more about the stock versus Pypes' option, and then of course, I'll show you how to install everything, so let's get to it.The tools used in this install include an impact gun or a ratchet, extension, 13 and 15-millimeter deep sockets, a 13-millimeter swivel socket is also recommended, hanger removal tool, PB B'laster or WD-40, and a mallet.Now, the first thing we're gonna start with for the uninstall is popping off our factory tips, those are gonna be reinstalled later on with our new exhaust. So, grab your 13-millimeter socket, we're just gonna loosen up this band clamp here. Of course you can grab some PB B'laster to loosen it up here. All right. We're gonna do the same thing for the other side. Use that 13 socket to loosen up that clamp. Now, our other side that was welded on, this one has broken loose, so it should be a little easier to get that tip out of place. Once that's off, pop that off. Set these aside to be reinstalled later.The next step here, we're back by our factory H-pipe. You wanna grab your 15-millimeter socket, and then we're gonna loosen up these clamps around that H-pipe as well. Once we get both sides loosened up, I'm gonna put a pole jack underneath that split H-pipe portion, just to hold it up in the air while we work on the hangers on the rest of the exhaust. But for now, grab that 15 and work these off. All right. So, at this point, like I said, I'm gonna put this pole jack up into place just to hold this end in. If you guys are working on the ground, a hydraulic jack does the trick, jack stands are also a good idea, whatever you can have just to hold this end up while you remove the other piece. At this point, we can disconnect these clamps, loosen up the H-pipe, and get that disconnected from the opposite end of our stock exhaust.Next up here we're actually gonna use a hanger removal tool to pop our factory hangers out of the isolators on our frame. We're gonna do that right behind the factory resonators toward the rear end. There's a couple different hangers we're gonna have to do this on, so, using this tool can definitely make a huge difference. If you struggle at all with these, you can use PB B'laster or WD-40, some kind of lubricant, just spray them on a little bit, you don't need too much, and that should help pop these out of place. All right. Now, instead of us removing the hanger from the isolator by the factory muffler, what we're gonna do is grab a 13-millimeter socket and an extension and actually just remove the bolt holding the whole bracket to the frame. That way, it's easier, we can just remove it off car instead of struggling above our heads here, especially a little easier for you guys working on the ground. So, grab that 13 socket, and remove that bolt, and that hanger will drop down. Save this bolt to reinstall later. We have to do this one more time for the front of the muffler by the exhaust tip. All right. Now we can do the same thing, like I said, right by the exhaust tip. Now, be careful because this whole thing will start to drop down, so you wanna have one hand on it to make sure it doesn't drop right on you. All right. Now we're doing the same thing for the other side. All right, at this point, we can remove the whole exhaust in one piece. My buddy, Tony, is here to help me out because it can be a little awkward, but since it all is still connected, I'm gonna remove our H-pipe, and Tony's gonna help me out guiding this down.So we finally got our factory exhaust off of our 5.7 Challenger, and on the ground here sitting next to our Pypes Street Pro. As you can see, night and day difference between the two. We're relocating some things, we're changing up a few things, the overall construction is completely different from head to toe. Now, taking a first look up here toward the front of the car, you're going from your factory H-pipe that has a couple of kinks in it causing a little air turbulence in the factory exhaust, robbing you of some power, putting a little bit of restriction into that mid-pipe, going over to your new Pypes X-pipe. Now, the X-pipe when compared to the H-pipe is gonna be a lot raspier, it's gonna provide more volume, and it's got less restriction which translates to a little bit more power and torque. So the X-pipe is the go-to for most guys who wanna open up their exhaust system, giving you a more free flowing airflow from the headers back. Now, that factory exhaust, being the H-pipe, has that crossover pipe in the middle which does cause some restriction and crossover for the air, whereas the X-pipe is all welded together for one smooth channel. Now, all of this is made from a 409 stainless steel mandrel-bent tubing, which is great, you know, unrestricted airflow, there's no kinks like that factory system, 409 being the middle of the way exhaust material. Now, there's aluminized 409, and then 304 stainless, 409 being that midway, which is great to keep some budget down, but it's still a lot more durable than aluminized options.Now, moving along, you'll see that you have your factory resonators at the midsection of the factory cat-back being replaced by your new Pypes Street Pro mufflers. These are chambered style mufflers to make sure you're not having much drone inside the cabin, just keeping some of that volume down so it's not overwhelming and overbearing. You heard the sound clips earlier, you know what they sound like, and that's all thanks to these mufflers here. Now, that's taking the place of your factory resonators, which means, let's move down here, you're not going to have a muffler by the tips. It's essentially that straight pipe section by the back end, which is good, you know, to keep that airflow going. You don't have the restriction of the resonator and muffler combo. No resonators at all, just those one chambered mufflers. Now, looking at the back end here, we still have that 2.5-inch tubing, about the approximate same size of your factory tubing. So, we can expect a little bit of back pressure there, which is good to make a little rumbling and popping sound, it's gonna be really good audibly, as you heard from the sound clips. And topping it all off is gonna be that split or dual tip system that's got a polished stainless steel finish, and it's basically taking the same shape as your factory rectangular or box tips, it's just splitting them so you have that dual box tip. So, switching things up a little bit, it has the Pypes' name embedded right in the materials there on the top. So, if you're looking for that aftermarket appearance at the rear end, this is a really good way to go. A lot of guys don't really favor toward the factory tips, some guys really like that split tip look, and it's a little bit more common in the aftermarket world now. So, if you like that look, you can get it right here with that Pypes Street Pro. So, that really wraps up everything that has to do with this particular system comparing it to stock, I wanna show you guys how this gets installed, but there's a couple of things we have to transfer over. As you can see, we have two hangers welded right onto the back end here, we're gonna transfer over those factory isolators and brackets that we unbolted from our frame. Those are gonna swap right over to these hangers here. As for the other hangers by our muffler system, those isolators are still in the vehicle. We're gonna pop those off, put them on to these hangers, and that will make life a little easier getting everything installed. So, step one, let's transfer over those brackets. We're gonna hit both ends of that, grab our hanger removal tool. You can use your hands, this just makes life easier if you have it on deck. Just pop these off. We're gonna set this aside to be reinstalled onto the new exhaust. Do the same thing for the one by the tip. All right, now, just repeat this for the other side.First step here for the install is to grab your new X-pipe, put two of the smaller clamps over the end going toward your stock manifolds, we're gonna slide that into place on the ends. Slide that all the way back as far as that goes. And one thing to note here is, there's a middle plate welded on from Pypes with an arrow pointing toward the front end of the vehicle, you wanna make sure that is in the proper position, do not have it reversed. Arrow facing the front of the vehicle. From there, move your clamps all the way back down, grab your 15-millimeter socket, and for all of the plans for the whole system until we're complete, we're just gonna get nice and snug, still leaving a little bit of room for adjustment. That way we know everything can be positioned properly without having to loosen anything up. So, clamps are here, let's get them snug. And before the mufflers go on, make sure you're grabbing another set of the smaller clamps and just sliding those over the end here just so you don't forget. You wanna make sure that you're putting the clamps on so you can gain access to the bolts. I like to have these rotated upwards so they're not hanging down super low. So just make sure you have access to these bolt heads. So now we can grab our driver side muffler and install it onto this end.All right. Driver side muffler going on just like this. Sliding the clamp over the top of that end, making sure the muffler is all the way back, and rotate it upward like this. Grab your 15 socket and get this snug as well. Now, like I said, I like to pop off these isolators from the frame and install those onto the exhaust, and then have that reinstalled to the frame all in one piece. But, it's whatever you find to be easier yourself, this is just my personal preference, so I'm gonna use this tool here to pop this out of place. It comes off super easy, and I'll install those onto the hanger on our new exhaust, but for now I'm gonna put this up here, and just pop off the other one. All right. Next is your driver side tailpipe. We're gonna slide that into the outlet on our muffler with one of those smaller clamps as well, rotating that isolator we just removed upward to hang into that factory spot. Now we can tighten this down slightly, getting it nice and snug.All right. Next up, before we do our other tailpipe side, I'm gonna go ahead and bolt up this factory bracket to the frame again using that factory or stock bolt. And I'm actually using a 13-millimeter swivel socket, which I find it makes life a little easier, but it's not necessary. Do the same thing for the rear end one. Repeat for the other side. All right. Now we can attach the brackets. Now we can install our new tips. For the tips, you wanna slide on one of those larger clamps in the kit, and then the tip will go after that. Might take a little finesse to get on there, slide it all the way back. And if you need to, you can grab a mallet to just bang it all the way back in there. Grab the clamp and tighten it down. All right. Repeat for the other side. At this point, guys, make any adjustments you need to align it properly, go back to each clamp and tighten everything down.Well, that's gonna wrap up my review, sound clip, and install walkthrough for the Pypes Street Pro cat-back exhaust, available for the '09 to '14 5.7 HEMI Challengers. You can get your Street Pro right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Specs & Installation
Champion of the Road. Become a champion of the road with the high-performance Pypes Street Pro Cat-Back Exhaust with Polished Tips. This cat-back exhaust system comes with a X-pipe design using polished and stainless steel double box tips. It helps increase horsepower by up to 18, delivering the edge you need for a leg up over the competition.
High Strength Steel. This chambered muffler unit is constructed using high strength, mandrel bent 16 gauge stainless steel with a slanted, rectangular tip cut and shape. It is perfect for stock and medium modified vehicles. It is sold as a kit.
Warranty. This cat-back exhaust comes with a lifetime warranty that protects against defects in workmanship and materials from the manufacturer.
Installation. Installation time takes up to 2 hours depending on your level of mechanical skills.
Application. The Pypes Street Pro Cat-Back Exhaust with Polished Tips is designed for all 2009-2014 5.7L Dodge Challenger R/T models.
Fitment: 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
May 18, 2020
These are very loud and mean I love it makes my challenger sound like a beastHelpful (0)
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(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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