(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today, we're taking a closer look at, and, of course, installing the Raxiom Dual LED Projector Halo Headlights, available for the '08 to '14 Challenger without factory HIDs. You should be checking these out if you're looking for an easy to install halo projector headlight here that's going to modernize the front-end of your Challenger, getting rid of the very traditional chrome and reflective headlights that really don't have the brightest technology or the most attractive technology. Now, Raxiom has built these guys to be a complete replacement to your factory headlight unit, and as you can see, it carries the same similar interior layout of the design but the technology is far improved. This is going to use an H9 halogen bulb there to give you a bright fixated projector light for your high and low beams. That guy is going to light up the road a lot more than your factory light ever did, and I got to say the halos surrounding them are so incredibly bright. In my opinion, these are some of the brightest halos I think I've ever seen on any aftermarket headlight, Challenger or otherwise. These halos are super bright to look at. They probably light up the road by themselves without the H9 bulb in between. Now, as you can see, your headlight section here with the high and low beams is surrounded by a bright, pure white halo accent. That pure white light is something to take note of. A lot of halos out there have a bluish hue to them. This is absolutely a pure white. Now, the secondary light over here, your parking light, is a light bulb that you're going to transfer over from your factory housing, and that, as you can see, is surrounded by a pretty unique amber halo. The amber halo is also extremely bright, a lot brighter than what I've seen before, and I got to say, amber halos are pretty unique. You don't really see them in a lot of aftermarket headlights. Looking at these headlights from Raxiom, that's something you can expect with this kit.Now, with that said, the halo accents do require some splicing for the install. It's extremely simple, and it comes with quick splice connectors to make sure you don't have to use any wire strippers or wire cutters. You're not cutting anything, so this is actually reversible. If you do want to go back to stock at some point, you can take the quick splice connectors off, which is definitely worth noting. Now, while I say splicing, it is a light splicing that you can put back the stock at some point due to the quick splice connectors included in the kit.Now, I'll get to that in just a little bit here, but the first thing I want to talk about here is the pricing. Now, the price for this set of headlights comes in right around 400 bucks, making it a little bit more of a premium option in the category. I will say that halo headlights or halo lights in general for Challengers don't really have an easy solution in the category other than these Raxiom options. Now, historically, Challenger owners haven't really had preferable options when it comes to halo accent lights. Typically, you'd either have the option to cut open your factory headlight housing to install halo rings, or you surface-mount halo lights like the option from Oracle. Surface-mount lights are really just 3M sticky lights that go out on the side right in front of your polycarbonate lens. Now, that's not really something that looks amazing when the lights are off. They can really look good at nighttime, but when you're riding around in the daytime, they stick out like a sore thumb. Raxiom's option here, in my opinion, do a far and a way better job than any of those options out there, and I definitely recommend it if you're looking for a modern solution to this. The nice thing about these headlights is it uses a black interior housing with a clear lens to give you the impression of a smoked headlight while allowing all of that light output to go straight through.Now, the install for this, I'm going to give two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter because it does require you to take off the front bumper. Dodge has made it a little bit more difficult to uninstall your factory headlights, so you have to get the front bumper off, which requires a whole lot of preliminary steps that I'll take you through in just a minute. If you're not comfortable taking off the front bumper, there's no shame handing this over to a professional to get it done properly, but I will say, with the right hand tools, you can definitely get it done yourself in the driveway at home. Will take about two hours from start to finish. I'm going to walk you through it. Let's get started.All right. Tools used in this install include an impact gun or a ratchet, a couple of extensions, universal swivel joint is recommended, 10-millimeter deep and swivel sockets, Phillips head screwdriver, a panel removal tool, and a pair of pliers. All right. Now, for the uninstall, we do have to remove our bumper to access the headlight bolts. So, what we're going to have to do is a couple of preliminary things. We pop the hood. We're going to remove the two pieces for the radiator shroud to expose a couple of push pin clips, and I'll use this panel removal tool to get those off. So, under the hood, you'll find this little open hole on the side on each side. You're going to pull up on that and set these guys aside. All right. Now, the first points that are connecting the bumper are these little black push pin clips. There's six of them on the black pieces. There are a couple in between that are on, you know, your factory paint color. In our case, Hemi orange. You don't have to do those that are sitting on the paint color, just on the black plastic trim. Use a panel removal tool or something similar to get these guys off. You're basically just lifting up on the centerpiece, and then it loosens up, and you can pull it out. Set these aside. All right. Now, in the corners above each headlight where the bumper meets the fender, there's a small 10-millimeter nut on a stud holding on the corners there. We have to get that off. For this, I would highly recommend a 10-millimeter swivel socket. I'm going to use my impact gun, an extension, and my swivel socket here. It might be a little tough to see, but once you get that locked on there, you can get it off. All right. Just be careful not to drop it in. It can be pretty difficult. All right. Just like that. Repeat that on the other side. So, this one, we put the Challenger up in the air a little bit, but you can work on the ground as well. We're going to be removing the four plastic push pin clips in the wheel well. This is holding on this liner, which will give us access to a bolt underneath. Grab a panel removal tool, and you're going to remove all four. Ours is missing one, but that's all right. We've got three more to work with. You should have four there.Next, what you're going to do is take the wheel well liner and you're going to peel it back. Underneath of that, you'll see there is a 10-millimeter bolt holding the fender to the bumper. All right. For this next bolt, we have this 10-millimeter right here. I'm going to use my 10 socket to get this off. Next, we have a bolt that's pretty difficult to get to. It's where the fender meets the bumper upward a little bit more, parallel to the headlight, so it's right about here facing toward the back of the vehicle. It's a nut on a stud. Now, you're never really going to be able to see that on camera, it's so close up in here, but we're going to use an extension and a swivel socket. To get in there, we're going to drop it on and remove the 10-millimeter nut. Like I said, tough to see, but if you follow this line up to right about here. All right. So, now I'm going to use two extensions for this guy and just feed a socket on a swivel joint to get up in there at the right angle. All right. I'm locked on right now. Just going to get it off. All right. At this point, you can reach your hand in there and get the nut off the stud. All right. And there it is. Now you can repeat this exact same process in the wheel well on the other side.At this point, we got the vehicle up in the air completely to access the front splitter here and the belly pan. We have to remove all the bolts connecting these two together in order to drop our bumper. Now, there's typically a bunch of 7-millimeter screws holding on the front here, all along the front and the sides underneath of your fog lights. Now, ours have been replaced over the years. These are Phillips heads on ours. Yours will probably be 7-millimeters, so just grab the appropriate tool and we're going to get these guys off. All right. Now, we can move on to the sides. All right. So, I have two 7-millimeters on the side here. Same thing on the other side. All right. So, now if you go backward a little bit to the belly pan, we have a 10-millimeter bolt on our subframe. All right. Now, if you go directly next to it on the other side, there's another one to take off. If you look at this little indent in the middle here, there should be three holes with three black push pin clips. Now, again, our Challenger has gone through some replacements over the years. These three guys are missing currently, but you should have three of those. Grab your panel removal tool, the same as we did under the hood, and get those three off and out of the way. All right. So, next up, we have a couple of push pin clips left. We have two here on the inside of the wheel well. We're going to remove them on both sides. All right. I'll do the same thing on the other side.All right. Next step, this is loose, so let's pull our belly pan off. All right. A couple of things to note here before we grab our bumper off. Make sure when you're pulling this off, you're being careful not to scratch the paint with the studs on the side. Also, you don't want to go too far with it because we still have to disconnect our fog light harness. So, as soon as you get it off, you want to set it gently down close to the vehicle so you're not pulling on the harness. So, from here, let's disconnect the sides, just like that. Same thing over here. All right. Let's get it off. Going right down with it right here, and now we can reach in and unplug our harnesses. All right. Now, on our passenger side, both fog lights feed into one master harness, which we're just going to reach down here and disconnect. You can follow the fog lights down, find this connector, and just disconnect. Now we can set our bumper safely aside, making sure we're not scratching the paint. All right. Next up, we're going to remove our headlight, finally. We have three bolts, one at the top, two underneath there that were covered by the bumper originally. Going to grab a T30 Torx bit and an extension and get these three bolts off. All right. With this last guy out of the way, carefully pull your headlight out of place and disconnect the harnesses. All right. So, I'm going to lift up on the red locking tab, pinch, and disconnect on both sides. All right. Set your stock headlight aside. So, we got our factory headlight off of our '13 RT behind me, and it's on the table next to our Raxiom LED projector halo headlight. Now, I want to take you through some similarities and differences between the two kits here, and I got to say, there are some in both of those categories.Now, as far as construction and quality goes, your new Raxiom headlight uses OEM quality. It's going to have an ABS housing which is impact-resistant, same color, same shape with OEM fitment, and the headlight lens here is also a clear polycarbonate like your factory one, so it's not going to fade over time. It's going to stay crystal clear. Now, the inside is where we start to see some changes, and this still has some similarities in terms of design and layout. We still have the high and low beams in the same spot. We still have the amber light in the same spot for your parking and turn signals. But the actual technology is a little bit different. Your factory light uses some incandescent bulbs, your new option here uses H9 halogens as well as LEDs for the accent lighting. The projector light here uses a focused light beam to make sure that at night you have increased safety and visibility. The projector light there uses a bright white H9 halogen, like I said, with a halo surrounding it as the accent. Now, the halo surrounding it is a pure white 5K color temperature LED. That's going to come on as a DRL or daytime running light with your parking lights when spliced in using the wires on the back.Next to it, you're also going to see your parking lights surrounded by an amber halo. Now, that's pretty unique in the category. Not a lot of aftermarket headlights here use an amber halo. That's going to give you a nice, bright, really vibrant light coming on with your parking lights. And honestly, that's my personal favorite part about this. The inside of the housing here is also black, which is going to give you the impression of a smoked headlight without hindering any of the light output that you could potentially see with a smoked lens. The black housing clear lens gives you the impression of a smoked headlight. So, it's got a stealthy look at the front end. Very different than your factory light here, which uses a chrome reflective interior. It's really flashy, very traditional, not very modern at all. The new technology here is going to do a far and away better job at lighting up the nighttime. It's got an adjustable screw in the back so you can adjust it yourself as well, and it's also just a lot more modern and attractive, especially with the accent LEDs.Now, what we're going to do at this point is transfer over our parking light bulb. That's going to come over to your new headlight here, and then we're going to work on some splicing that we're going to do inside the vehicle. So, at this point, you're going to pull out your factory parking light bulb, which is your amber one here on the inside. You're just going to twist it counterclockwise and pull straight back, and we're just going to swap it over to our new housing doing the same thing in reverse, so just find the way that it lines up here in that open socket, press it in, turn it clockwise to lock it in place. Now, as you can see, there's two loose wires here, a red and a black. That's your ground and your power. These are going to splice into the parking light harness inside of the vehicle. There's a number of ways to do that, but they do include quick splice connectors that I'm going to show you guys how to use now on those parking lights. So, it's really quick and really easy. No need to strip any wires or anything like that. So, let's get to it. All right. At this point, we can focus on splicing. Now, we do have two sets of LEDs that we want to splice in since there are two different halos, we have a halo set coming from the bottom with a red and black wire, power and ground, and we have ones up here, same thing, red and black. That's for your amber accent lights.Now, I'm going to pull off the excess wire on the front there just to expose the copper. Now, what we're going to do is take a look at our factory harness. Now, of course, we have two plugs. We have a green one here for your high and low, and then you have the black one here for your parking. Let's just plug in the green one, just because we know that that one is easy to do, and push in the red locking tab. Now, for the rest of them, we want to splice in our halos before we do anything. Now, in order to do that, you're basically going to take both black wires from each halo and twist them together, and then you're going to take both power wires, both the red wires and twist them together, insert them into the splice connectors and clamp them down to your factory harness. All right. Now, before we do that, let's twist the two together so we've got both black wires here. Basically, we're going to take the copper and just give them a twist so that they become one wire connection. The same thing with the power. Perfect.Now, on your parking light, the factory parking light, that's what we're clamping these onto. You're going to need to determine which one is your power and which one is your ground. Now, I know that our black wire with the green stripe here is our ground, and our white wire with the purple stripe here is our power. If your colors are different, you're definitely going to need a light tester to determine which one is your power if you're unclear. All right. So, what we're going to do here is take our quick splice connector, this little clamp, and we're going to insert that into our black wire first. All right. So, you're just going to put that in place, just like that. Now, on one side, you'll see the black wire going in and an open hole on the side. The open hole is where we're going to put our halos. So you're going to grab the black wire, insert that into the open hole. Now, the way this works is, now that we have this inserted, we're basically going to clamp down this metal bar at the top and it's going to connect both the factory harness to our halos to make sure that our halos work properly. You just want to make sure that the wires are inserted all the way, and that this metal bar will clamp. Grab some pliers, clamp them down. Give the wires a tug. Make sure they're nice and secure in there. Flip this tab over and lock it shut. Perfect. Now we're going to do the same thing for our red wire going to the power, which, again, on our vehicle is the white wire with the purple stripe. All right. Close that up. Now we can connect this harness to our parking light socket and test out our lights, making sure they work before we move forward with the install.All right. At this point, once you determine that your lights are working properly and the splices are good, you're going to install the headlight. Now, it uses the same factory mounting points, so make sure the bolt holes are lined up. You're going to take your factory Torx bolts and Torx screws and you're going to install those into the stock locations. I'm just going to put this one in by hand, a couple of threads. Grab your T30 Torx bit and tighten it down. Next step, we have our bumper placed up against the front of our vehicle. Remember, you have to plug in that fog light harness, so that's step number one down here on our passenger side. So make sure that guy lines up, snap it in place. All right. Next step, you want to carefully get your bumper back up onto the front-end of your vehicle. Now, this can be pretty tricky by yourself. I'd recommend a helping hand, but if you're only alone, you just want to be careful that the studs on the side aren't contacting your paint because that can really scratch things up. You're just going to carefully lift this guy up into place and connect to the sides. All right. So, you want to feed that stud into the side and clip it in place. Do the same thing on both sides. All right. Next up, now that we have the bumper in place, I like to take the 10-millimeter nuts that go in these corners here above the headlights to connect the bumper to the fender just so it hold itself in place. I think these are good connection points for that. So, what we're going to do is just take that nut, insert it into my swivel socket. I'm going to carefully feed that back onto the stud and tighten it down. All right. Same thing on the other side.Now we got the vehicle back up in the air, we're going to focus on that bolt connecting the fender and the bumper here that's really difficult to see inside of the wheel well there. Grab your 10-millimeter nut. You're going to feed it in by hand and then tighten it down with your socket. All right. Once you get it on the stud, you can try to feed it in a couple of threads like I've got there, and I'm going to grab my two extensions and my swivel. Tighten it down. All right. So now we can put on that little mudflap-type trim using that 10 millimeter bolt. Make sure you're using the proper side. Tighten it down with your 10 socket. All right. So now you can take those black push pin clips and put them back in place using the wheel well liner. All right. And from there, you're just going to repeat this on the other side. All right. Next up, we can put our belly pan in place, and this can be a little bit difficult. You're going to feed it in in the corners, making sure that the side flaps go behind the wheel well liners, feed it in to the middle here, and make sure the other end goes in as well. All right. I'm going to start with the screws at the front and work my way around. All right. So now we can put the 10-millimeter bolt back in each of its places. All right. So now we just have a couple of push pin clips to put in on both sides in the wheel well, and then we'll wrap up underneath. Same thing on the other side. All right. Now we can put her down. Next up, we're going to put all six push pin clips back in place under the hood. All right. Now we can put the panels back on, and we're good to go. All right. So, this guy, we're going to feed back onto the left and the right. All right. From here, shut your hood, and you're good to go.Well, guys, that's going to wrap up my review and install for the Raxiom Dual LED Halo Projector Lights available for the '08 to '14 Challenger without factory HIDs. Pick your setup right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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