(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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The X-pipe I have here is available for the 4.6L SN95 owner, who might be looking to pick up a set of long-tube headers or may already have them, but wants a catted X-pipe that gives them a little bit more power, as well as a louder, raspier growl, all while staying street legal. Now, this one is going to be a very simple install, as is all mid-pipes here for the SN95s. Expect a one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, as far as the rating goes, and we'll talk about that later on. The first thing I want to be completely transparent about is that this X-pipe from BBK is made to only work with BBK long-tube headers. It won't work with factory manifolds or aftermarket long-tubes of a different brand. With that said, they do work in perfect harmony together. So they do work to bring you more power and more sound that brings your 4.6 to life. Now, the sound an X-pipe makes is one that gives you a nice tone, but also a loud volume as well. Now, the X name obviously comes from the shape of the tubing. Both sides are welded together to give it the X-shape and an unrestricted airflow that not only gives it more power, but it gives it a raspier sound as well. Now, the H-pipe, on the other hand, it doesn't have the welded-together shape, but actually has a cross-over giving it the letter H. Now, with that said, it may drop a couple of horsepower, because of the more restricted airflow. But it does have a deeper, throatier sound than the raspy growl of an X-pipe. Obviously, personal opinion. So if you're looking for the louder tone, X is for you. If you're looking for the deeper, muscle car sound, the H is probably in your direction. As far as power is concerned, BBK lets us know you can expect anywhere from 14 to 22 horsepower when using this X-pipe in conjunction with your BBK long-tubes. In my opinion, those are very significant numbers for something that doesn't even require a tune. But a tune, however, would give it a maximized performance gain, since this is a very impeccable mod. But obviously, it's not required here. Now, materials do have an impact on power and sound as well. This one offers two and a half-inch tubing with mandrel bends, which do help to maximize the airflow here. But the X-pipe being unrestricted doesn't really need too much more help. With that said, though, this is the catted version. So you see two catalytic converters already welded into the materials here. Now, these are high-flow cats, so they are going to be less restrictive than your stock options. But still restrictive, nonetheless. If you're looking to go all out, non-restricted, no cross-over pipes, no cats, you want to go with the off-road X-pipe version of this. However, if you're looking to keep it street legal, this is probably the one you want to go with. Speaking of legality, this unfortunately, even though it is the catted version, will not be street legal in emissions-restrictive states, such as California, or any state adapting their emissions laws. With that said, you want to check with your local laws and regulations before picking up this mid-pipe or one of the off-road ones as well. As far as price is concerned, you can expect the catted X-pipe here to be available for just north of the $400 mark. Pretty much the same price tag goes for the catted H-pipe version as well. If you're looking to cut the budget down just a little bit, you can go with the off-road version. But then again, you're looking at throwing a Check Engine light, since it is off-road. With that said, MIL eliminators or a tune will take care of that, but it does add the added hassle. So it obviously comes down to personal preference and your budget. Now, the installation, again, mid-pipe, very, very straightforward bolt-on process. One out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. However, you're probably doing this at the same time as some long-tube headers, since they are required to make it work together. That process for the long tubes will be a lot more involved, will require a lot more knowledge, and will be a lot more difficult. However, this alone is very simple. A ratchet and socket set will do the trick, 30 minutes to an hour at the absolute most here in the driveway or garage at home. The first thing you want to do is get your Mustang in the air on a jack and jack stands, or a lift if you have access to one. Remove the O2 sensors from the port on the mid-pipe to be reinstalled onto the BBK option later. Use your ratchet and socket set to disconnect the factory mid-pipe from the flanges on the over-axle pipes, and then of course if you still have your factory manifolds installed, you want to disconnect it there as well. Now, obviously, you want to tackle the long tubes first, before you get the BBK option installed. So once they are taken care of, pop the BBK option into place, bolt it down to the over-axle pipes using the new flanges, and then on the opposite side to the long tubes. You then can replace the O2 sensors to the ports here, and then you're good to go. Well, that just about does it for me. So if you're the owner of a '96 to '04 4.6L SN95 with long-tube headers already equipped, you might want to check out the BBK catted X-pipe, which you can find right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Technical Note. This BBK product is not legal for use in emission restrictive states.
Fitment: 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
|Style Mid Pipe:||Shorty "X"||Type Headers Required:||BBK Long Tube Headers|
|Piping Material:||Aluminized Steel||Piping Size:||2.5"|
|Catalytic Converter:||Yes||Fitment:||1996-2004 GT, Bullitt, |
Mach 1, Cobra
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