(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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Noah: Noah here with AmericanMuscle. We're checking out the C&L Sport Axle-Back Exhaust with a Polished Tip, fitting the 2005 to 2010 Mustang V6. Now, if you're looking to get some more noise out of your ride but you don't want to break the bank and you're looking for a super quick and easy install, then this axle-back from C&L is a perfect choice for you. This guy is going to fall at a three out of five on the wake-the-neighbor scale.One of the first things that come to mind with this guy is simplicity. It's just an axle-back, which is exactly what it sounds like. This just replaces the rearmost muffler segment of your exhaust, so it's got a minimal install, and it really doesn't stray too far from stock. This is great for those people that need to convert their exhaust back to stock one day because it's super easy to just exchange this single piece. This is also just a simple muffler change as well.There's no fancy valving with this guy. There's no welding needed and nothing needs to be changed from the motor back. This is a really great option for someone who's looking to quickly and easily get some more sound out of their Mustang with a high-flow stainless steel upgrade. Talking construction, like I said, this axle-back is going to be stainless steel and it's actually 409 stainless. 409 stainless is seriously hard. It's corrosion-resistant, and it's one of the most common and most affordable grades of stainless steel that exhausts can be made from.The piping here on either sides of the muffler is 2.5 inch, which is going to feed right onto that stock exhaust and this is a chambered muffler and everything's finished off here with a 3-inch tip. Now, the muffler here is going to let some sound free, but as you heard in the clip at the beginning of the video, it's not going to melt your face or anything like that. This is going to give a clean, crisp, and refined sound that will be great for the daily drive. This guy is designed to be bolt-on and go right where the factory muffler would come off, and overall, it looks really nice. The welds are beautiful and the whole thing is pretty stout just like an exhaust should be.So this axle-back costs around $220, and that's probably the main reason this is such an excellent option. The cost is pretty inconsequential when put up against a full cat back, especially when you consider that this is a complete kit and everything you need for the install is included in the box. Speaking of install, this guy has an install difficulty of only one out of three wrenches and an hour for the install time. Now, like I said, this is a super simple install, and next up, we've got an AM customer who took the time to walk us through the install process so you can follow along step by step. Let's check it out.Man: Hello. Today I'm going to be changing my current exhaust on my 2005 Ford Mustang from the Pypes Street Pro Axle-Back Exhaust to the CNL Sport Axle-Back Exhaust. So I'm going to show you step by step what I do to change this out. So let's get started. Now, although I already have an aftermarket exhaust on my car, the process is going to be no different from what you would deal with with the stock version. And I'm going to do this entire thing in my driveway without jacks, without a lift, just getting underneath of the car and doing it. In one and a half of that, there's some shop towels and some gloves.Make sure you can clean up any messes that you make as well as some penetrating oil because depending on how long your exhaust has been on the car, the nuts might give you a bit of a problem, some safety glasses, of course, a 3/8 ratchet, and right now I have a 13-millimeter socket on it as well as a deep well 5/8. And this is going to be for the bracket that goes around the exhaust itself as well as the matching wrenches and a 13-millimeter and a 5/8 as well. And you're going to need your new exhaust. So let's get started.Now, here we are underneath the back right rear of the car where the exhaust is, and I'm going to start by taking off the exhaust bracket. Now, since I've had this aftermarket one on for just a little while, the corrosion is not going to give me a problem. However, if you're dealing with a rusted bracket and you're having a hard time, that's when you would want to use your penetrating oil and just really soak this nut and bolt to try and loosen that up.So I'm going to take my 5/8 ratchet... I'm going to take my 5/8 ratchet and just completely take this nut off. This way, when we get the hangers off, we can just wiggle this exhaust right off. Now, here is the first hanger on the back of the exhaust here, and you can see it has two bolts, one on the bottom and one on the side. We're going to take our 13-millimeter and we're going to loosen both of those bolts.Okay, I've got one out and now I'll get the other one out. Now, you can see here, depending on your ratchet... My ratchet doesn't quite fit. So that's when I'm going to switch to my wrench to loosen this one up. And that's the first hanger complete. Now, the second hanger that's used is towards...it's right near the bumper here. Towards the very back, you can see there are two bolts. There are two bolts, one up here, up at the top of the wall, which if I can move my hand, you can see, and then one on the very bottom, right over here. We're going to start with the top one since that's the most difficult one.All right. That's the bolt from the side wall. Now we're going to get to work on this one right over here. This bolt is a little bit tight with the ratchet. You can make it work, but if you need to, you can switch to your wrench. I'm also going to hold my exhaust up here a little bit just so it doesn't drop as I release this last bolt. There's the second hanger. Now, the only thing that's holding this exhaust on is its connection right over here with the exhaust. So I'm just going to take the exhaust, give it a few twists, and it comes right off.Now, again, this is because this is an aftermarket one, so I've already done this. But if you're having problems getting either the bolt off or the bracket off from this connection, hit it with a lot of penetrating oil and let that soak for a little while before trying again. You may even need to take either a soft dead blow hammer or maybe a wooden mallet and just give it some tap to try and loosen up all that rust.Now, because I talked about it and I wanted to show you what it was that I was talking about, here is the exhaust tip from your car. This is not part of the axle-back exhaust, but that third bracket on your stock exhaust attaches right here. It's right on this backside, so you really have to get your head underneath there to see it. It's going to be those same 13-millimeter bolts that you just get off here, and this is where the hanger is. This one is not used in seemingly most of the aftermarket hangers, but I just wanted to make you aware that this is its location that you'll have to get it. It's a bit of a tight fit, so you'll have to probably use a mix of your wrench and your ratchet, but it's definitely doable right here in your driveway.Now, with the exhaust out of the car, what I like to do is prepare it as much as possible to make it as smooth and easy to install as I can. Now, what that means is, what I'm first going to do is I'm going to put the bracket on the exhaust tip, and I'm going to transfer the hangers from the old one exactly as I saw it onto the new one. So I'm going to leave the same orientation and just put it on the new one. I'm going to do the same for the other hanger. I'm going to take it off and hold it into the same position, and I'm just going to put it right on the hanger just like that. That way we don't have to fiddle with the orientation when we put it back onto the car.Now that we're back onto the car, what I'm going to do is I'm going to test fit the new exhaust into the exhaust for the car. That seems to be good. Now that I have it test-fit onto the exhaust, I'm just going to hand-tighten one of these bolts into the hangers to hold my exhaust up. That way, I can let go and make sure that everything looks to be aligned properly, and it does. So I'll hand-tighten the second one to the same hanger.With everything seemingly aligned properly, I'm going to hand-tighten the second bolt to the same hanger. You may have to fiddle around a little bit to get everything to line up to the holes properly. Now that I have them, I'm going to leave these ones loose for the time being. Now I'm going to go and fit the other hanger before tightening everything down. So here we are with the hanger to the front. This is the bumper. You can see my hanger is upside down, so I'm just going to move that. Now, here we are at the back of the car. Here's the bumper, and here's the hanger. I'm just going to align this back up to its holes.So here is the first one. And just shift your hanger around so you can make sure it aligns to your holes exactly as need be. What you don't want is to install your exhaust and have it rattle after the fact. So you want these hangers mounted properly. So I'm going to hand-tighten this first bolt. And I'm going to come up to this side wall, and I'm going to hand-tighten the second one while pushing my exhaust up with my other hand to get that bolt to align with the hole. There we go.This is why you leave all the bolts nice and loose, so you can make sure you can get everything wiggled into exact place. Now, with that done, wiggle your exhaust around to make sure that your hangers are sitting comfortably and that the brackets are in there nicely and you're still maintaining a nice connection to the exhaust with the car. And once you do that, you can tighten down the bolts to your hanger. And once you wiggle everything around, you can tighten the bolts to your hangers.Now, again, this is where we use our 13-millimeter ratchet. We're just going to tighten up the bolts. I should also mention that where your exhaust tip here is, right in relation to the bumper, just try to make sure that's as center as possible so when you put the chrome tip to the CL exhaust on it, it's going to be nice and centered like you want it. Resuming the tightening. And now, because the CNL Sport Axle-Back Exhaust is much smaller than the other one I just replaced, I actually have more room for this bolt to use my ratchet comfortably.Okay, the hanger is tightened down, let's move back to the other one. Okay, here we are back with the other hanger. And I'm going to start with the side wall here. So I can get my ratchet in there nicely. And the side wall is tightened. Now I'm going to switch to my wrench to be able to tighten this one on the bottom down. Okay both hangers are nice. Okay, both hangers have been nicely, firmly tightened down. Here's our exhaust.Like I said, that third hanger from the stock muffler is not used. So you don't have to worry about that here. Now, the last step is to get that clamp tightened around the exhaust and cranked down. Now, here we are back at the exhaust connection. You can see here, this is where one exhaust dovetails right into your new axle-back. And you can see that here's our bracket that we put on previously, that way we wouldn't have to worry about anything. And I'm just going to slide that over the spot on the axle-back exhaust where you can see the little splits. And what this is going to do is it's going to clamp down and really tighten that to the exhaust so it doesn't come off.This is where I'm going to take my ratchet again and the 5/8 socket and I'm going to start to tighten this down. I tightened it a little too much further down. I want this to sit higher. There we go. You want this somewhat near the edge because that's really how it's going to tighten down. And you want to make sure you keep that nut so it's easily accessible. You want to keep checking to make sure it's not moving around on you so you're keeping it tightened down exactly where you want it. This is the part where if you have a pipe that you can put on the edge of your ratchet, that will help you get more leverage to tighten it down. If you don't, an impact hammer also works, or you can just muscle through it. There it is nicely on there. And that finishes the bulk. The last piece left is to get the nice chrome tip on the exhaust and have it looking nice.Now that I have the bracket semi-tightened to my chrome tip, I'm going to slide this onto my exhaust and position it to about where I want it until I tighten it down a bit. Now, I find that the best spot to put the bolt for the hanger is at the top here because you can still access it but it won't be in view from the street. This is what you want if you're putting a nice chrome tip onto your exhaust. You don't want people to see it. The bracket, that is. Don't worry about the tip sliding around a little bit. It'll do that until you get the bracket tightened down, and then you can make your final adjustments here.Now that I have it snug, I can move it around a little bit. I'm going to go to the back and look at it and make any final adjustments in terms of how much I want to stick out. Right about there looks good. Make sure the flange is angled here, so you also want to make sure that the angle you have the very point at the very top and where it slopes all the way down is at the six o'clock. Looks good right there. Give it a wiggle, nice and centered. Come back under and really crank it down. Give it a little test wiggle. Not coming off. That's that. Now it's done.Noah: That was the C&L Sport Axle-Back Exhaust with a Polished Tip, fitting the 2005 to 2010 Mustang V6. For all things Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
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(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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