(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
$590.00 (set)FREE Shipping
Hey guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Eibach Pro-Damper Shock and Struts available for the 2011 and newer Challenger. Now, even though I'm only standing next to one of our rear shocks, the kit does come with all four. So you get two front Pro-Damper struts and two rear Pro-Damper shocks so you're upgrading all around. Now this particular kit is a good upgrade for the guys looking to lower their vehicle or someone who already has lowering springs on their vehicle. These are specifically precision tuned in the twin tube gas pressurized design to work with the Eibach Sportline or Pro-Kit lowering springs but it also works with other lowering springs in the category as well. These are great because of the precision tuning is gonna give you better handling and ride control, especially under hard cornering that you'd get with a lowered center of gravity and a stiffer lowering spring. Now the kit does use all race quality materials, all really high-grade stuff, which is exactly what you'd expect from Eibach. It does have a nice black finish on the outside to protect the exterior of the shock. Same thing for the front-end strut. All pre-drilled holes, of course, for your sway bar end link. Everything is pretty much designed with CAD data so it's a perfect OEM direct fit.The kit does come in just under the 600-dollar mark, which I will say is gonna be a little bit more on the premium side of things for a simple shock and strut that doesn't come with a spring, otherwise, a coilover. Now the install, I'm gonna give two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, guys. You can tackle it in the driveway at home. It'll take you about two to three hours depending on your personal experience with suspension work. Now if you're using your factory springs with the strut at the front end, you are gonna need a spring compressor. You'll need a spring compressor to uninstall the factory spring to transfer it on over. If you're using an aftermarket set of lowering springs and you're installing them at the same time fresh out of the box, you're not gonna need a lowering spring. Really, it's only gonna be needed if you're taking apart your factory or aftermarket strut. Now, putting everything back together, you're not gonna need the spring because you can just push straight down on it and compress it yourself by hand which is definitely recommended to do with a buddy and I'll show you that in just a little bit. I'm gonna use air tools for the install. It makes life a lot easier but you can tackle it with an impact gun, ratchets and sockets as well. I'm gonna take you through every step of the process. Let's get to it.Tools used in this install include an impact gun, airgun, extension, 13-millimeter deep socket and a 13-millimeter swivel socket, 15-millimeter short socket, 16-millimeter swivel socket and 16-millimeter deep socket, 18-millimeter short socket, 19-millimeter deep socket, 21 and 22-millimeter deep sockets, 18-millimeter wrench, 22-millimeter wrench, pry bar, hammer and a flathead screwdriver. First up here guys, get your car in the air and support it properly whether it be jack stands or a lift. Grab a 22-millimeter socket and get your wheels out of the way. First step, in the front-end, we're gonna start here is to remove or pull off the plugs for your ABS lines. Now, the reason we're doing this is we wanna remove the tension from the lines. That's why we're doing this. We wanna get as much slack as we can so you're not tugging on it. There's a couple of lines all along here. We're just gonna really pull down on them just to give them that excess slack and there's one more right on the back of the hub. From here we're gonna disconnect our sway bar end link from the strut. Now what you're gonna need is a 21-millimeter deep socket and, typically, a regular impact gun or a wrench even won't have enough torque to get this off so having an air tool definitely makes things a lot easier. All right. Now, if you break it loose a little bit but it's still struggling, the bearing itself tends to spin. So what you might wanna do is put a pry bar on the inside, the opposite end here, just to hold that from spinning. So let's go ahead and get a pry bar. All right, and once you break that loose, take the nut off. Remove the sway bar end link and what I like to do is just couple of threads, put the nut back on so you don't lose it.Next up, guys, we're gonna tackle the upper control arm. Now, the upper control arm to the hub itself is held on by an 18-millimeter nut. Now, this, again, also has the tendency to spin so you might need to do a pry bar on the inside of that coil and pull down just to put some pressure on it to keep it from spinning. Again, air tools definitely make this easier. Once you have that loosened up, keep the pressure on the upper control arm. This will pop out if you just remove it quickly so you wanna make sure you're just threading this off, still holding pressure on that pry bar and now you can slowly get those to disconnect. See, this is gonna come down. You don't wanna get bonked in the head so make sure you got that held on, bring the control arm back up and again, I just like to put the nut on there just so we don't lose it.Next up here, we're gonna remove the 18-millimeter bolt holding on the bottom of your strut. Can keep that 18-millimeter socket on there, gun this off. You might wanna have a hand on the strut just to wiggle it back and forth to get this out of there. There you go. Now we can drop the car and tackle the three bolts at the top. Now, our Challenger under the hood has a Mopar Strut Tower Brace. If yours doesn't, this may not apply to you. What we have to do is remove our cap here and holding on the top of our strut at our strut tower are three 13-millimeter bolts. This is the last thing holding on that strut. So what we're gonna do is pop these three off but at the same time, you wanna have a hand underneath to hold the strut. Because this is loose down here, that's gonna start dropping out. You wanna have a hand there, make sure you grab it. All right. Got our 13. You don't wanna use air tools for this. Simple deep socket will do the trick. Hold onto these nuts because they will be reinstalled later. And when you get to the last one, have a hand on that strut. Now to remove it, you may have to push down here. So that's what we're gonna do, just gonna push down, lift up and there you have it. Once you have one side done, do the exact same thing for the other side of the front.The next step is to take your strut and your factory spring, you wanna head over to a spring compressor. Now we've got one fixed at the wall at our shop here but if you've got a loose one, you guys wanna make sure you're using extreme caution because they can be very dangerous if not operated properly. Now what we have here is we've got a stool propping our strut up because we don't want it to fall through. I've got the bottom coil set in our slots. The top, I'm gonna put straight to the strut hat. Now that's gonna put good pressure on it, we're gonna compress the spring, remove the nut at the top, take the strut hat off and then our spring will come out once we decompress it. Like I said, it can be very dangerous so exercise extreme caution. What I will recommend now is removing the top bushing and the spacer from the nut. Now those are in the way so what we're gonna do is just pull those straight off, come off pretty easy. You can just thread that off, it's just a rubber bushing. Our washer, I'm gonna put those aside. Now, can start compressing. Now you take your 18 socket, remove that top nut while the spring is compressed. All right. Once you have that nut off, you can lower your strut and decompress your spring slowly. All right. Once that spring's decompressed, pop this guy out and we can remove our hat. Once you have your strut hat off, dust cover comes with it, you can set this aside along with your spring and just repeat for the other spring.All right, we're back from the spring compressor, we've got things taken apart at the front end. I wanted to take you guys through a quick side-by-side comparison between our factory strut and our Eibach Pro-Damper. Now, the information I'm about to give you does also apply to the rear even though we've only gotten our front taken apart on the table. Now, taking a closer look, remember, our 2013 RT does have the Bilstein struts at the front end from the factory. Now if you guys have the non-Bilstein strut, this is gonna be an even bigger upgrade but still either way, you're getting definitely a big improvement at the front and rear. The Eibach Pro-Damper in comparison to your factory struts, whichever one you do have, these are typically meant and they're specifically tuned for a lowered center of gravity. Now, they do work with your factory springs like we're installing today but keep in mind, guys, if you were to install lowering springs in the future, you'll really get the maximum potential out of these Eibach Pro-Dampers. What that basically means for the Eibach strut is the tuning inside of this gas pressurized tubing is meant to handle the lowered center of gravity lowering springs and stiffer springs more so to give you the maximum potential out of it, especially when you're taking hard corners. Now that doesn't mean you're not gonna get an upgrade under normal driving conditions. Because of their tuning, when you have that lowered center of gravity, your normal driving is gonna be a lot more cushioned but it's also gonna be a lot more responsive.Now, installing this with a factory spring like the one we have here today, you're not gonna reap the full benefits but it is still gonna be a bigger upgrade from the factory option in that sense. So, now, as far as putting things together, they're a little bit different in just one small aspect. Your factory strut here has a bottom plate underneath of this lower bushing, this lower isolator, that's held on by a snap ring. Not gonna be the case with your Eibach. See, this one does not come off but if you take your Eibach strut and the new seat for your isolator, this will go right on over and there's not gonna be a snap ring on top of it. Instead, the pressure of the spring and the whole tension that that's putting on is gonna hold this together. So, we have that installed. All we have to do now is slide off that isolator on the bottom, transfer that on over and we can start installing our spring.So, we are gonna be reusing our factory isolator, which just really simply slides right off. We're gonna slide that on to our new Eibach. Now it's a good time to pick up new isolators if your factory isolators are wearing out. If you're seeing signs of cracking or if you're seeing that it's splitting or anything like that, then it's really a good time now to do this because if they go out then you'll have metal on metal contact which is gonna cause a nice rough ride which is not what you want. It's also gonna deteriorate the bottom seat. So it can cause bigger issues in the future. From here, what we're gonna do, we're gonna reinstall our factory springs like I said but if you're upgrading to lowering springs, now is the time to put them on. Make sure your factory top hat along with the dust cover and dust boot and the bump stop inside are still intact. Ours never came apart so what we're gonna do is slide that on right over the top. The spring is gonna seat down and I'll twist that for you. The spring is gonna seat at the edge of your isolator. You wanna make sure you're rotating that just to give you a clear picture. This rotates in that seat, you want it to be on the end.Next step, what you're gonna do, take off the top nut. That's pre-installed out of the box along with the washer. Slide your dust cover and hat back on, seat that and the same thing is gonna go with the top isolator. This, you want seated on the edge here. Once you make sure the top and bottom line up, what we're gonna do is put this on the ground. You can push down and put pressure. Put the stud through the top, put on the washer, the nut, tighten it down. Now you may need a helping hand for that. My buddy Blake's gonna give me a hand. While I put pressure on, he'll tighten it down, but you can take care of that without needing a spring compressor.All right, so what we're gonna do is actually try to do this ourself. You just wanna make sure that your face is out of the way just in case you were to let go. Put pressure down. Drop your washer down in there and your nut, just wanna try to get it on a couple of threads. Now you're actually gonna grab a 19-millimeter socket. We're just gonna hold our strut and tighten it down. All right. Once you get it all the way on there, can start installing.All right guys, starting to install your strut, what you're gonna do is basically everything in the reverse order. We're gonna put everything in. We're gonna prop it up through the top of the strut tower then we're gonna tighten the bolts down under the hood. All right. Once you have some of it up through, head up to the under the hood and tighten down a couple of nuts. So we got it through with one hand underneath and one hand on top. As long as you get one nut on that holds it in place, now you can go back underneath. Now, as you can see, we don't have it around that lower control arm just yet. You can see it's facing the wrong direction. This is your sway bar connecting point on the strut. We need that facing the inside of the vehicle. So with one top nut tightened, you can rotate this to face the right direction, push down on the hub assembly and swing it into place on the lower control arm. Perfect. Grab your factory bolt and put it through.All right. Once you get it through, there's a new not included in the kit for this so grab that and you can tighten it down. I'm just gonna thread this on by hand a couple of turns. Now you can grab your socket and your impact gun and tighten it. All right, so you're gonna grab a 22-millimeter wrench to hold the nut and an 18-millimeter socket to tighten down the bolt. All right. Now, for the upper control arm, take the nut off of that. You can use your hand to pull this down, your other hand to line it up. Hold it down with one hand or a pry bar, thread the nut on a couple of turns then you can let go. Now I like to grab a pry bar to put pressure on this to get this to tighten up. Now the reason I want to use a pry bar is because this has a bearing in it that if you just start tightening, this is definitely gonna spin. You wanna pull down and put pressure on that to keep that bearing from spinning. Grab an 18 socket, you're gonna tighten this nut down.All right. Last, we can do our sway bar end link. We're gonna take that nut off, put it through the mounting hole on the strut and tighten it back down from the outside. Grab a 21-millimeter socket and tighten down that nut. Now what I like to do is put my hand on the opposite end and just push and you may need to like angle it in certain ways to get it to tight without that bearing spinning. Perfect. Now you can grab a torque wrench and torque down all three of these bolts to spec. Now then we can go up top and tighten down our strut tower bolts.All right. Now you can just finish up up here putting these nuts back in. Grab your 13 socket and tighten them down. Finish it up with the end cap. Guys, once you have this side taken care of, you're gonna repeat the exact same process for the other side, then you can start on the rear.Starting on the rear here, we only have to worry about the shock. We're not gonna worry about the lowering spring or the bolt on the lower control arm. Really all you need to do is tackle the bottom shock bolt, the two shock bolts at the top and then one in your trunk. We're gonna grab our 15-millimeter socket on the impact gun, 18-millimeter wrench to hold the nut. We're gonna remove that bottom bolt first. Now you can grab a 16-millimeter socket to tackle these two top ones. I'm gonna use a swivel socket. I think that makes life a little easier. It's a bit of an awkward position for it to be in. We can get these off. Now to get your factory shock out, you're gonna have to put pressure on the top and pull down and compress the shock in order to squeeze it out here. Now it can be a little difficult. If you pull down slowly, you can get that out and you can lift it out of place. Now we're gonna reinstall our new Eibach in the reverse order.Now before you put it in the vehicle, you'll notice that it has a top spacer, washer and a nut but they're not tightened down. That's holding on, basically, this top plate so you wanna tighten that down with your 16-millimeter socket before you do anything. This next thing is just a little trick. What you can do to make things a little bit easier is put the shock on the ground. You wanna have this sticker facing outward and what you're gonna do is compress the shock all the way down and when you let go, you wanna click quickly, install it into the vehicle before it decompresses fully. All right. See now it's decompressing slowly and fits right up into the hole. Now you don't have to fight with it on-car. Now what you can do is grab your factory two 16-millimeter bolts, put them back at the top and then same at the bottom. You can grab those factory bolts, put them right up through here. I'm just gonna thread them in a little bit by hand just to get things started. All right, same thing with the other. Perfect. Grab your 16 socket and tighten those down. Again, I'm using a swivel.All right. Now it's our bottom shock bolt's turn. Now, as you can see, the holes aren't lining up and grabbing the shock itself isn't really gonna change that. Trick here is grab a flathead screwdriver and insert it in the opposite end through the hole that's showing and just lift up and you can help guide it in. That way it lines up and bolt goes through. From there, put it all the way in and if you need to you can grab a hammer to help it all the way through. You can grab a dead blow hammer and get it all the way in. Grab your 15 socket and your 18 wrench and tighten it back down. All right. Torque this down to spec, put your wheels back on and you're good to go.That's gonna wrap up my quick overview and install of the Eibach Pro-Damper Shocks and Struts for the '11 and newer Challenger. You can pick your set up for the front and rear together right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
For Superior Control and Ride Quality. These Eibach Pro-Damper Shock & Struts are specially designed for use with Eibach SPORTLINE and PRO-KIT Springs. Each damper is precisely tuned to complement the lower center of gravity and suspension performance of the springs to deliver excellent control and ride quality. Furthermore, these dampers are ideal for applications that require high-performance handling.
High-Quality Construction. Eibach suspension products are designed for high-performance applications and feature racing-quality construction. These dampers are precision-made from high-grade materials to ensure outstanding performance.
Direct Fit OEM Replacement. Eibach designed these Pro-Damper for a direct fit, hassle-free installation. These dampers work best when used with Eibach SPORTLINE and PRO-KIT Spring kits.
Backed by a 2-Year Limited Warranty. This set of Eibach Pro-Damper Shock & Struts is covered against factory defects in material and workmanship. The warranty only applies to the original purchaser and exclusions will apply.
Application. These Eibach Pro-Damper Shock & Struts are designed for all 2011-2014 SRT8 and 2011-2020 R/T and V6 Dodge Challenger models. Eibach SPORTLINE and PRO-KIT Springs are sold separately.
Fitment: 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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