(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Hey, guys. Joe with AmericanMuscle and today, we're gonna be working with the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs fitting all '08, '09, and '10 Challengers and '11 and newer V6s. Now, these are gonna be the perfect set of springs for the Challenger owner out there that's looking for a moderate drop to improve both looks and handling of their Challenger. Now, simply put Eibach is one of the biggest names out there, they're one of the best in the business. These are gonna give you an aggressive low stance, bring that center of gravity down to help handling in all sorts of situations. We're looking at about a 1.4-inch drop in the front and a 1.5-inch drop in the rear. Now, one thing I really like about this set from Eibach is these are gonna be what's known as your progressive rate springs. So, what that means is as you start to compress that spring in extreme maneuvers such as turning left and right hard on the brakes, hard on the gas, it's gonna get harder and harder to compress. When they're fully flexed, you get that nice and easy daily driving compression that's gonna soak up the bumps, make your Challenger nice and easy to be daily driven. But as you lean more into that spring, such as mid-corner in a turn, again, hard on the brakes with the nosedive or hard on the accelerator with that pitch up, you're gonna fight harder and harder to limit out that body roll, keep your Challenger nice and level and make it easier to handle.Now, in just a minute, we're gonna start disassembling our Challenger here. Get those stocks springs out, we'll put them side by side next to our new Eibach's here, and you'll be able to really see that difference between the linear stock spring and our new progressive spring. These are made out of a high-quality spring steel just like the factory one, so you know reliability is gonna be no question, especially when you're dealing with a giant brand like Eibach. Now, the 1.4-inch drop in the front and the 1.5 in the rear isn't going to be your most aggressive drop out there. That's really gonna be there to clean up the looks, lower that center of gravity, improve the handling a little bit, but you're not going to have to deal with the typical things that you would when lowering your Challenger. You're still gonna be able to run those 20-inch wheels that looks so good on the Challenger. You're not gonna scrape when going over your typical speed bump or getting into the driveway. One-and-half inches on all four corners is really a nice middle ground just to clean up the looks and prove that handling without any of the typical drawbacks from like a 2.5 or 2-inch drop. Pricing for the set of four is going to come in right around that $300 mark. Now, that's gonna be toward the middle upper end when it comes to a set of springs like this, but with a name like Eibach, you're getting the best of the best here well worth the money. Also included in that price is going to be a million-mile warranty. Yes. You heard me right. Eibach backs this up with a million-mile warranty.As far as install goes, these are going to be a direct replacement for the factory, so there's really no big modification required to get these on your Challenger. However, we are going to be seriously digging into our suspension components here, and for that reason, it gets a three out of three on our difficulty meter, but it should take you four or five hours to get this fully installed and buttoned up on your Challenger. So, without any further ado, let me show you what tools you need and how it's done.Tools required for this install of your Challenger is a little rusty, PB Blaster is a must, safety glasses as well, an impact, ratchet, basic socket set ranging from 22 millimeters all the way down to 10, U-joint, 10, 15, and 18-millimeter wrenches, 21-millimeter ratcheting wrench, an extension, pry bar, hammer, dead blow, pliers, vise-grip, and again, just to combat some rust here we did have to heat up a nut and for that, we use the induction coil. Now, not pictured in this shot are going to be the floor jack, spring compressor, and jack stand.So, for the first step of our install here, we're actually going to be loosening up some of our exhaust hangers. There's one right before the muffler and one right after the muffler as well. Now, you're probably thinking that sounds a little bit weird, why are we dropping the exhaust in order to do springs? Well, here's the issue right here on our lower control arm. This bolt right here in the rear does need to come completely out, and with the exhaust where it is, we're not going to be able to back that all the way out. So, we're just gonna drop it a little bit so we can slide that bolt out. And for that, I'm going to be using an extension and 13-millimeter socket. Next up, we're going to loosen up the two upper shock bolts, they're both 16 millimeters to make them a little bit easier to get at either U-joint on the impact. And like I said, I'm only gonna loosen those up. This isn't gonna pull that far away to begin with. And to make sure everything stays in line, I'm gonna leave those in place just a little bit. So, next, we're gonna turn our attention to the inside bolt on our lower control arm. Now, as you can see, I have our Challenger lowered a little bit here. I got the other three tires just kissing the ground. That's going to give us something to push against because what we're going to be doing here is using our floor jack to push up on that lower control arm, therefore, compressing this spring just a little bit and relieving tension off of that bolt.Now, before you do that, you wanna make sure your Challenger is secured. This is still mostly on the lift. Like I said, those tires are just barely touching the ground. I also have a jack stand underneath the dish just for a little bit of safety here. Well, once we drag that lower control arm up, we're gonna remove that bolt. The nut is going to be an 18-millimeter socket, the bolt itself is going to be a 15. Once we get the nut off, we are gonna swap to the 15-millimeter socket and just spin that bolt and let the threads work their way out of our lower control arm. Now, as I do this here, you wanna go slow. That shock still is in place, so you want this to absorb that upward pressure. I'm watching the lift arm as well, I wanna make sure this doesn't come off back here. I'm also watching the jack to make sure that is nicely situated in a nice pocket on the lower control arm.Now, if those threads don't bite for you, just use a pry bar on the bottom of that bolt and it should come right out. Now, we're gonna, very slowly, release pressure on that jack and that's going to open up our spring as that control arm drops away and we should be able to pull it right out. Now, we can pull out our spring as well as the upper and lower isolators. So, with our old factory spring off of our Challenger here before we drop in our new Eibach, I just wanted to put the two next to each other on the table and point out some of the key differences between the two, some of which are definitely not gonna be obvious to the naked eye. As you can see, they're both black, they're both made out of high-quality spring steel here, but the real difference is are going to come in terms of spring rate. So, let's take a look at our factory spring here. As you can see, the coils are evenly spaced throughout the length of the spring. This is going to be what's called a linear spring.Now, what that means is it's going to take as much pressure to compress the first inch of travel as the last inch of travel. Now, compare that to our Eibach over here. As you can see, there's a drastic difference between the first half and the last half of the spring. Down here, this is going to be your daily driver range. This is going to soak up the bumps, make your Challenger nice and easy to drive around in when you're not pushing it to the limits. But as you start to go to extremes, you compress this further and further and further, you get to this tighter wound portion up here. Now, this is going to fight you harder and harder. That's going to limit body roll in all directions, right? So, when you're accelerating, that's going to limit your pitch up. When you're hard on the brakes, that's going to stop the nosedive. Mid-corner left and right body roll, it's going to fight that as well. Definitely, all areas to improve if you intend on taking your Challenger to the edge without that sacrifice of daily drivability.Now, another huge benefit, and then one that I'm sure most of you guys are here for, so we're going to be lowering the ride height on our Challenger about 1.5 inches front and rear. Now, that's gonna help us improve handling situations as well. But bringing that center of gravity down, bringing down that center of mass, that's going to improve all driving situations. So, now we're ready to drop in our new Eibach. We're gonna get these isolators sorted out, drop in our new spring and button up our Challenger. That tighter wound portion of the spring, that's gonna go towards the top. This one with the ridges is going to be our top isolator. We're going to press that in place and slide it around. As we do, we wanna make sure that that last coil is nice and flush against that flat edge there. Same thing for the bottom isolator, this is gonna be even easier to see it on. Now, one thing I did wanna mention before we drop these in, these isolators are just rubber. This is a pretty new Challenger we're working on, but these do wear over time. If yours look to be in bad shape, now is definitely time to replace them. Also, we're ready to drop these in now. Take a look at this lip right here, that's gonna point in toward the center of our Challenger.Now, I'm gonna come up on the jack, guide that upper isolator in place as well as the lower control arm around the push. So, we're actually looking pretty good to get our bolts started through here. I've done this before and they never quite line up as easy as they did right now. If you do have trouble with this, you could get a small pry bar right here or hit one of the lug studs with a dead blow to get this in place up and down on the jack, gives you some motion as well. Once you get that lined up, you can drop that bolt right in. We're just a hair high on the other side, so we're just gonna drop the jack a little bit and get that to line up as well. Now that we have that through, I'm just gonna replace our 18-millimeter nut here and then grab the 15-millimeter wrench, hold the bolt still and tighten this down.Now, all that's left for us to do is button up our upper shock mount with a 16-millimeter socket, our exhaust hangers with the 13-millimeter socket. Do the same thing for the other side, and then we can move to the front. So, now we're gonna move on to the front and the very first thing we're gonna do is disconnect our wheel speed sensor and brake line bracket. We don't wanna stress those as we're disassembling our front assembly. It's held on with a 10-millimeter bolt. And just for safekeeping, I'm gonna throw that right back in. Next, we're going to attack our sway bar end link. It's held on with a 21-millimeter nut and it's very, very common that that nut gets frozen on there. If you need to hold the ball joint still, you can use a 10-millimeter wrench. Now, just to try to avoid that at all costs, I gave this a pretty healthy dose of rust penetrant. So, this guy isn't moving at all, it's a little bit tough to get to with a wrench. So, we're gonna try the other end of the sway bar end link, it's a little bit easier. We'll get around that with a 21-millimeter ratcheting wrench and a 10-millimeter box wrench.So, the next step here is going to be to apply some heat. The bottom is on pretty much no better. To be honest, I'm pretty sure this thing has been driven in the snow quite often as it came in with studded tires on the rear. So, this thing has definitely seen some salt, probably an accurate representation of what you're going to be up against with a Challenger that's on the older side. So, we're gonna break out the induction coil here, heat this up a little bit because you can't be stuck if you're molten. So, if there's gonna be anything that puts up a fight, it's gonna be that sway bar end link. The rest is gonna be easy sailing. Next up is going to be the bottom of the strut assembly right here. We're gonna remove this bolt with an 18-millimeter socket. Now, I know I said that was gonna be the last thing that puts up a fight, this is gonna be pretty tight, so I'm just going to take a pry bar and hit the end of it with a dead blow.Next, we're gonna turn our attention to this upper ball joint right here. It's held on with an 18-millimeter nut and I actually have the 18 on my gun with a U-joint here just to make it a little bit easier to get at. Now, what I'm actually going to do is completely remove that nut and then thread it back on a little bit by hand. Reason being, we're gonna have to hit this collar here with a hammer to release the taper on that ball joint and that nut is gonna catch that upper control arm from flinging up and in your Challenger. And also, that nut is going to protect the threads when we do this. At this point, there are three nuts holding in our strut assembly. They are up at the top, so we're gonna pop the hood, get rid of this cover here, and remove those with a 13-millimeter socket. I just have the pry bar to peel up on this cover.Now, our strut assembly is free, we're just gonna work it out from the Challenger. So, now we have our strut assembly set up in the spring compressor. If you don't have a nice wall mount unit like we do, you could easily rent one of these from your local auto parts store. And now when you're using one of these, use extreme caution. Make sure everything is nice and flush, everything is evenly spaced and leveled out. This is a dangerous machine, there's a lot of tension in this spring here and I know that I still personally have nightmares about this thing. So, when you use it, use extreme caution. But what we're gonna do is compress that spring a little bit and back off this 18-millimeter nut. And it does look a little bit rusty, I'm not too excited about that. But without any further ado, let's start compressing this thing.That nut isn't moving anywhere, these threads are pretty rusty. So, we're gonna do a couple of things here, we're gonna hit that with some more PB Blaster and we're probably gonna get a pair of vice-grips, peel up this lower boot here, and get those around the shaft. And as you can see, I just tried to pull that boot up as high as possible. That way if we ended up scratching up that shaft, it's not gonna show through the boot or anything and this is probably gonna be the most traveled area for the strut itself. So, when you're all the way up there with the teeth on the vice-grips, it's probably not even gonna compress into the shock body. We're coming to the end of the threads here, make sure you catch your strut when it falls out. So, looking at that shaft in our strut here, we actually didn't do any damage to it at all. That's a pretty hard surface. As long as the vice-grips don't spin on there, you get a nice tight grip, you definitely won't do any damage to that. But now that it's out, we can put that aside, decompress our spring, and steel back that top hat. So, with our new Eibach just about ready to go in the spring compressor, before we do that, I just wanted to put it on the table next to our old factory spring and point out some of the key differences here. Just like the rear springs, they're not as obvious to the naked eye.So, let's start with some similarities. They're both black, they're both high-quality spring steel, but the differences here are going to start in terms of spring rate. Those coils are going to be a little bit closer together and overall, the height of this Eibach spring is going to be a little bit shorter, both of which are going to contribute to that spring rate and lowering the center of gravity, which is going to help limit body roll in all directions and really help improve the handling of your Challenger. So, without any further ado, let's grab our top hat here, get this in place on our new Eibach and then we can head back to the spring compressor.Now, one thing to keep an eye on as you're feeding this top hat, you wanna make sure the end of this coil right here is flush up against this wall. So, I'm just gonna compress this a little bit and then feed through our strut and get that old nut started on top. Before we tighten that 18-millimeter nut all the way down, there is a little bit of orientation that this has to be in to drop right into the car. Take a look at the top, these three studs right here make a little bit of a triangle. The point of that triangle is gonna be toward your chest as you're dropping this in the Challenger. So, one thing to note about that is the sway bar is going to be on the opposite side, so we're gonna orient that right about there. Point of the triangle is facing this way, sway bar that way. And one thing left for us to check is this isolator here. Just like the top, you wanna make sure that wall is flush up against that last coil. Now, we're just gonna lock that 18-millimeter nut in place.Next, we're gonna decompress and head back to the Challenger. Now, if you went for the lower end link mount like I did, keep a close eye on this as it goes in, you wanna make sure that makes its way over the lower control arm. Now, we're just gonna get the top started here with that 13-millimeter hardware from before. Now, we're just gonna press that cap back in place. Now, we're gonna get our bottom strut bolt through and tighten down using an 18-millimeter socket. Next up is going to be that sway bar and it looks like it's putting up less of a fight this time than the first time. Next up is going to be our upper ball joint, we're just gonna pull down on the control arm and tighten this down using an 18-millimeter socket on a U-joint. And lastly, is gonna be this little brake line bracket right there. Install is going to be the same exact thing for the passenger side. All that's left to do after that though is take our Challenger for a good alignment.And that's gonna do it for my review and install of the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs fitting all '08 to '10 Challengers and '11 and newer V6s. Thank you for watching. I'm Joe. 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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Superior Looks and Performance. These Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs are designed to deliver high-performance handling while providing an aggressive lowered look to the Challenger. The lower center of gravity reduces squat while also improving stopping distance and fuel economy. Additionally, it provides improved handling especially during cornering.
Aggressive Lowered Stance. Another benefit of installing these Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs is the excellent good looks of a lowered muscle car. These springs lowers the front by 1.40 inches and the rear by 1.50 inches for a level, stable stance.
Superior Eibach Construction. Eibach's springs are made using state-of-the-art proprietary CNC technology. They're made from high-grade spring steel and heat treated for superior performance and durability.
Progressive Rate Springs. These Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs feature a progressive spring rate. These ensure superior control and ride quality for street and track use.
Clears Stock and Aftermarket Wheels & Tires. These lowering springs were engineered to be compatible with your stock size wheels and tires, as well as AmericanMuscle’s pre-configured wheel and tire combo kits (specific to your generation), to assure proper clearance with no rubbing issues.
Direct Fit Replacement. This set of Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs is designed for a straightforward replacement upgrade of the stock springs. However, it’s recommended that a professional mechanic do the installation due to the inherent hazard of replacing springs.
Backed by Million Mile Warranty. These Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs are warranted against factory defects in material or workmanship under normal installation and use. This warranty is only valid for the original purchaser and other exclusions will apply.
Application. This set of Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs are designed for all 2008-2010 Dodge Challenger models as well as 2011-2021 V6 models.
Fitment: 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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